Leak near passenger rear tire.

[jmsa540]

Guys, just did a 220 mile trip today and I got home and there is some type of oil ALL over my rear passenger tire and there is this dark fluid everywhere near the back of the vehicle; on the frame, the wheel, the tire, the brake caliper, tailpipe, etc.

I checked my brake fluid and it's not low, pretty sure I'm not leaking brake fluid.

My buddy says it's my axle seal.

Thoughts?

[justbob]

Axle seal..


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[jmsa540]

Great... Price? How hard to fix?

Any Part numbers??

[crownvic97]

Sadly that’s your axle seal, very common problem in 2003.

[jmsa540]

Should I go ahead and do 4.10's?

[RF Overlord]

Axle seal. Likely the axle shaft is bad also, so you'll need a seal, a shaft, and a new bearing. New parking brake shoes, too.

The job isn't hard, but if you've never done it before you might wanna ask a friend who has to assist.

Don't drive it any more than necessary and DON'T take any more 220-mile trips. If you run it out of fluid you'll be looking at a much bigger bill.

[jmsa540]

Roger, part numbers?

[jmsa540]

Thanks, guys.

[fastblackmerc]

While it's open I'd do the 4.10's.

[puptent]

Gear lube has a particularly bad smell. Changing the axle seal on a "C" clip rear end is not that hard, a good project for a weekend warrior. A Haynes manual, or a quick search of you tube should reveal the details. But basically, a "C" clip inside the pumpkin retains the axle and keeps it from leaving the vehicle. You can see the occasional result of "C" clip failure along the road side... Ford 9 inch axles, and Dana use a bearing retainer at the outboard end and eliminate the "C" clip weakness. There are "C"clip eliminator kits on the market, but that's another job.
You will have to dismantle the axle end, brake backing plate, etc. and then open the pumpkin. Removing the C clip doesn't require any special tools, but might need a little finagling. However, installing the new seal will require a seal driving tool, available at the auto parts store where you bought the seal (way under $10 bucks for a seal, I predict.). A seal puller is best to remove the old seal, but if you're VERY careful, something from your basic Harley Davidson tool kit will get it out. If the axle is damaged, feel with your finger for roughness, or a huge lip (some lipping is natural), but only a little. You will see clearly where the seal has been riding. Be sure to lube the axle shaft and the seal (petrolatum---Vaseline, or assembly lube, or just gear lube) when re-installing so that you don't tear the new seal, they are fragile that way. A good time to check the splines at the driven end of the axle... Be warned, gear lube is nasty stuff, so be sure and wear nitrile gloves.
As for going to 4:10's, setting up tooth engagement, and rebuilding a posi is not a job for beginners, I would recommend a shop for that. (you will need some special tools, dial indicator, torque wrench, feeler gauges, machinist blueing, plus, to do an accurate job, a set of alignment shafts that hold the carrier in position are helpful (but tons of gear sets have been changed without them---just saying, a shop has access to specialized tools), etc. And, you will have to deal with....MATH, there, I said it)

[puptent]

I forgot to mention it's a good time to inspect or replace bearings...

[jmsa540]

Shop is saying it is "wheel seal", does this sound about right?

[RubberCtyRauder]

yes, but axle needs checked for a groove or it will leak again. 03 haz possible soft axles so a groove gets worn making bearing chew up seal

[jmsa540]

Pics of said groove or location?

[RubberCtyRauder]

on axle shaft near end by tone ring. must pull axle to look. google marauder axle shaft groove

[RubberCtyRauder]

there is a TSB on it. if your shop does not want to pull axles, find another shop. have to open rear cover to access c clips. inspect both sides

[fastblackmerc]

In most cases the seals just don't start to leak, something causes them to leak like a bad bearing or bad axel.

[RubberCtyRauder]

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=download&Number=20806&filename=Dsc_4175_Crop.jpg (http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwi30M6M8fzWAhUd8YMKH SbNBKIQjRwIBw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.crownvic. net%2Fubbthreads%2Fubbthreads. php%3Fubb%3Dshowflat%26Number% 3D2266516&psig=AOvVaw0h-7k-pgwgZWg8aOtdLYOP&ust=1508509271382336)

[jmsa540]

Ya'll are awesome, I take it the pic above, that "groove" isn't suppose to be there.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Correct, groove bad, no groove good. the one in pic is mild in essence, seen much worse

[jmsa540]

Ty, guys.

Which one should i get on rock auto?

Stronger or weaker steel?

[jmsa540]

Guys, one more question.

Tech is saying ill need a new differential clutch spring, can anyone help me with that part number?

Not having any luck.

[fastblackmerc]

Guys, one more question.

Tech is saying ill need a new differential clutch spring, can anyone help me with that part number?

Not having any luck.

I believe it's commonly know as the "S" spring.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=ford+8+s+spring&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR 0.TRC0.H0.Xford+8.8+s+spring.T RS1&_nkw=ford+8.8+s+spring&_sacat=0

[RF Overlord]

Tech is saying ill need a new differential clutch springDid he say why? I'm not a diff expert but I've never heard of that spring going bad unless the car was badly mistreated.

[justbob]

If your still stock you'll need the 28 spline S spring. Curious as well as to why you would need a new one? They only last like one billion miles..


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