View Full Version : New Member and 2003MM (Maryland)
Hey all,
Finally got the car I wished for back in 2003 and 04. It is 2003 black on black with 108,000. My son is 15 and likes it very much as well. Has a few issues that I have to work out.
Just two days after buying:
Air only going through defrost. No codes on EATC.
Oil leak at the oil filter housing.
Get P0357 - Ignition Coil G Primary/Secondary Circuit
I now notice an engine knock after it is warmed up. Argh!
I am a reasonable shade tree mechanic but would like to have a good mechanic familiar with these engines take a look at it.
I am in Maryland/DC area but am willing to drive an hour or two to get a good mechanic people trust with these engines. Suggestions?
Anyway, this forum is assume and looking forward to being a part of the Marauder family.
Thanks,
Greg
Welcome!
Lots of good help here
TrilogyMarauder
01-01-2018, 09:22 AM
Welcome!
Member here......martyo........runs a performance shop in Georgia.
http://www.mosspeedshop.com//
http://legalknevil.com/gallery3/var/resizes/My-Garage/Card%2012-18-14.jpg?m=1418930586
Don't know how far he is from you, but you can be sure it will be worth the trip. These guys know how to fix your Marauder and are highly respected here. ;)
.
Ambitious1
01-01-2018, 09:56 AM
Welcome and Congratulations!!! Talk to Marty. ^^^ He will help you.
RubberCtyRauder
01-01-2018, 10:09 AM
possibly have a bad coil on plug #7, swap it with another location, clear code, see if it follows. at 108k miles, might be a good time to do plugs and cops, plugs for sure, cops could wait as they get pricey sort of.
eatc unit needs o rings, write up in DIY section on how to do.
Consider a tune from martyo, plug and play, wakes the car up and has super improved shift schedule
Welcome and happy maraudering!
Thanks for everyone's advice. I live in Maryland so getting to Marty isn't easy for me. But, driving down to Florida next month...
So G corresponds to number 7 A-1, B-2, etc. Have to find a code manual.
Thanks again. The main concern is the knocking noise. I really like the car and just want it to last a long time. Don't really need more power. Would like to run 87 octane, get as much as I can from it while maintaining longevity and reasonable MPG.
I can get cheap flights from BWI to Atlanta. So, it may be worth it to go to Marty's
RubberCtyRauder
01-01-2018, 10:57 AM
car can not run on 87 octane, will knock and ping. needs 91 minimum, you may be hearing injector tick, common, can you get a video of sound on phone and post it?
justbob
01-01-2018, 11:11 AM
car can not run on 87 octane, will knock and ping. needs 91 minimum, you may be hearing injector tick, common, can you get a video of sound on phone and post it?
This^
It’s considered high compression, therefor needs a better octane.
Is the knock at the bottom, top, or front? There is plenty of noises to these engines that are common from birth. Some cars more noticeable, but doesn’t always mean there is a problem. The injectors can click loudly, valve components, timing chain slap/weak tensions, even just the belt tensioner can make a racket mimicking a knock.
Only thing that concerns me is you have a fault code pointing at a certain cylinder and your claiming a knock. I would run a compression test at minimum. It’s a good way to get to know your car and it’s health. I wouldn’t normally worry about too much parts wise at your mileage. Sure there’s been plenty of issues with even less mileage, but a great deal more of nothing.
My stock engine and trans was removed at 92,500 in perfect health even being supercharged since 48,000.
Welcome aboard!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I will do a compression check and swap coils around when the weather gets better. In the teens now. Too cold to mess around outside now. Will video soon.
TrilogyMarauder
01-01-2018, 12:45 PM
I can get cheap flights from BWI to Atlanta. So, it may be worth it to go to Marty's
From what I hear it always is! :burnout:
mm svt
01-01-2018, 01:29 PM
You must use higher octane no option
martyo
01-01-2018, 01:54 PM
I can get cheap flights from BWI to Atlanta. So, it may be worth it to go to Marty's
Feel free - I can help you whether you bring the car to the shop or not.
Below is a link to my MM engine noise. Thoughts....
https://youtu.be/bzVnjmRViPM
Turbov6Bryan
01-01-2018, 02:49 PM
Below is a link to my MM engine noise. Thoughts....
https://youtu.be/bzVnjmRViPM
I would change the oil and look at the oil with a fine tooth comb. You could always send off the oil for analysis.
That is a little loud, sounds worse on the drivers side. I would put 3 quarts of 5w20 3 quarts of 10w30 a splash of marvels mystery oil, and a bottle of STP engine oil treatment.
Ive put 35K on one so far that has a lower end nook nook nook nook nook at idle.
If they put kendal oil in it, some motors make more noise than with mobile 1
RubberCtyRauder
01-01-2018, 03:10 PM
compression check will tell if 7 or 8 has an issue. there can be a dead spot in the head near cyl. 7 , 8 that doesnt allow good coolant flow and can bend a valve due to heat, there is no definitive if or when or if ever but it does happen. It requires headto be removed. There is a cooling head mod due to this. not limited to marauders, other 4.6 dohc models also have random issue of cyln7 or 8 overheating. I know you dont want to hear that but it is a possibility. Also get rid of the 87 octane, motor is 10.1 compression, 91 is bare minimum
Turbov6Bryan
01-01-2018, 03:20 PM
I thought it sounded like a lower end noise, if the valve was bent, it would have a rough idle and you would hear a miss.
Right? :)
RubberCtyRauder
01-01-2018, 03:33 PM
I thought it sounded like a lower end noise, if the valve was bent, it would have a rough idle and you would hear a miss.
Right? :)
Somonevwho has had it happen needs to listen and reply. ADAM had a bent valve on 8.
Turbov6Bryan
01-01-2018, 03:55 PM
Somonevwho has had it happen needs to listen and reply. ADAM had a bent valve on 8.
Neil bought one to buy and sell a few months back. He did a compression test on it and it had a really low compression on one cyl. The piston was good, so it was in the head....
It missed so bad at stock idle, we put a tuner box on it and raised the idle to 900 and the miss went away 50%.
It was like a thud thud thud. Walk around to the exhaust and then you really could hear it. :)
This dudes car sounds to me like a rod knock, lets hope it has really thin oil in it. It sucks.
martyo
01-01-2018, 04:00 PM
I would change the oil and look at the oil with a fine tooth comb. You could always send off the oil for analysis.
I recommend Blackstone Labs for the Oil analysis.
I have been doing this for 15 year on a billion different motors.
a_d_a_m
01-02-2018, 08:57 AM
Somonevwho has had it happen needs to listen and reply. ADAM had a bent valve on 8. The ***** of all of this is, I just spent Christmas in Ellicott City, where OP is from. I would’ve gladly gone and listened in person just to get away from in-laws.
Anyway, it doesn’t sound exactly like mine did when I dropped a valve seat and bent a valve. But it sure sounds close. Mine was more of a tickticktick and as others have said above, the video makes it sound more like a knock.
Thanks for all the replies. I hope it is not serious. If this helps - it doesn’t make the noise when first starting/cold. Need to wait for warmer weather.
Well it just got worse. Maryland inspection today. The following was found:
Window tint too dark
Emergency brake not working - hardly takes
Front sway bar links
Both front springs broken (at the very bottom was hard to see)
leaking exhaust gasket
Big one - Missing second catalytic converter (I asked the person but should have noticed)
Leaking power steering hose (pressure) I don't think so and still think it is just from the oil filter housing leak that I was aware of.
These are all things I should have caught. So, I guess I will be doing more work than expected. Suggestions for spring/shock and catalytic converters?
The body is in good shape and still think I can salvage this thing. Probably paid too much but had some room for repairs. The suspension and CATs are killing me though. Then of course there is the engine.
RubberCtyRauder
01-02-2018, 04:28 PM
tascaparts.com should have end links for stock if you dont want urethane fron aftermarket. oil filter adapter is prolly your leak, need gasket and will require oil and coolant drain. cooling system has a specific burping procedure to rid system of air when cooling system worked on.
post up in wanted section, someone prolly has springs laying around and prolly even cats. factory front springs are discontinued.
there are enough members here to help get over the hurdles, just takes a little time for members to read posts.
we can assist with saving a marauder
Joe Walsh
01-02-2018, 04:30 PM
I have a set of very low mile front springs that I bought years ago and never got around to cutting a coil off of them.
Also have my OEM exhaust, looks as good as new....something like 10,000 miles on it.
Also live in Severn...about 20 minutes from you.
Only problem is finding these items in my chock full o' $h*t garage!
And....YES it is cold as the Arctic! -1 degree Monday morning!
Joe,
WOW just in Severn. Your assistance would be wonderful. Perhaps you can even take a listen to my engine sometime.
Anyway, just frustrated at the moment but really like the car and want to try to save it. I even mentioned selling it back to the person I bought it from since we still haven't retitled yet.
Just saw your list of cars as well. I had the 1985 GT 5.0 4BBL and is that the same engine as the SVO in the convertible? My son would go crazy over those cars.
Welcome Greg
This may be your oil leak issue. . .
http://www.instructables.com/id/Replace-Leaking-Oil-Filter-to-Block-Adapter-Gasket/
keep us all posted and enjoy your MM!
Joe Walsh
01-02-2018, 04:49 PM
Joe,
WOW just in Severn. Your assistance would be wonderful. Perhaps you can even take a listen to my engine sometime.
Anyway, just frustrated at the moment but really like the car and want to try to save it. I even mentioned selling it back to the person I bought it from since we still haven't retitled yet.
Just saw your list of cars as well. I had the 1985 GT 5.0 4BBL and is that the same engine as the SVO in the convertible? My son would go crazy over those cars.
I'll dig out the parts in the next few days...problem is I'll need to open up my garage door to shuffle boxes... and my garage is heated. Hate to do that when its 18 degrees outside.
Both the front springs and exhaust are in great condition.
Do you want the 'H' mid-pipe along with the catted pipe?
(I already sold the OEM mufflers)
'84 GT 'Vert is a non-intercooled 2.3L Turbo...145 HP IIRC.
Not quite an SVO engine, but a very rare Fox body.
I will take the H pipe as well. Do you want some help? I hear you about the temp. No garage here. Sunday is suppose to warm up. Even colder before then. :(
Joe Walsh
01-02-2018, 05:12 PM
I will take the H pipe as well. Do you want some help? I hear you about the temp. No garage here. Sunday is suppose to warm up. Even colder before then. :(
I'll do a little digging....exhaust shouldn't be too hard to find.
I know that the front springs are in a medium sized box... of which I probably have 30 similar sized boxes!....:eek:
How soon were you looking to get the parts?
(Soon... I assume because of the inspection hold up.)
BTW: I'm about 3 miles from Arundel Mills Mall.
There really isn't a big rush as I will have to get it reinspected anyway. Re-inspection is $30 while new one is $65. I have other vehicles to drive so not necessary there either. I have to check the MVA website to see how long they give to get a good inspection on temporary tags. You are only about 20 minutes from me. Cool.
Are the springs OEM? Why cut them? Also, I guess I should do shocks as well while there since they are probably original. Thoughts ..
I just got gas and just had someone ask me about my marauder. Makes me feel better anyway. I know I will get there eventually.
Joe Walsh
01-02-2018, 06:40 PM
There really isn't a big rush as I will have to get it reinspected anyway. Re-inspection is $30 while new one is $65. I have other vehicles to drive so not necessary there either. I have to check the MVA website to see how long they give to get a good inspection on temporary tags. You are only about 20 minutes from me. Cool.
Are the springs OEM? Why cut them? Also, I guess I should do shocks as well while there since they are probably original. Thoughts ..
I just got gas and just had someone ask me about my marauder. Makes me feel better anyway. I know I will get there eventually.
Springs are OEM take-offs from a low mile 2003 Marauder.
I bought them from a fellow MM.net member who bought aftermarket springs for his Marauder way back in 2004 +/-.
I wanted to cut them 3/4 of a coil for a lowered, yet not bone jarring ride height.
Never got around to it.... like all the other parts that I've been selling recently....:depress:
108,000 mile shocks probably should be replaced while they are doing the springs. It'll ride like new!
Marauders are still very cool cars....(jaded opinion lol)
Sounds good. Starting to order parts.
Suggestions for shocks? I know one of the rears was leaking as well. Should probably just do them all.
RubberCtyRauder
01-02-2018, 07:44 PM
Monroe severe duty is a common replacement, oem marauder spec ones are obsolete, ford offers grand marquis which is softer for marauder replacement.
Are these the shocks suggested:
Rear: MONROE 550018
Front: MONROE 553001
Thanks,
Greg
That sound could possibly be an exhaust leak, I'd look under neath and while there have a listen around the flex plate, check the torque converter to flex plate bolts and the flex plate for any cracks. Is the sound there when car is placed in gear?
Good luck and welcome to the club.
RubberCtyRauder
01-04-2018, 08:33 AM
Are these the shocks suggested:
Rear: MONROE 550018
Front: MONROE 553001
Thanks,
Greg
Yes those are them..The front set up is similiar to strut/coilover, but I believe a member near you is helping with some parts so there will be some assembly/disassembly
Great thanks
Still gathering parts
Joe Walsh
01-13-2018, 11:35 AM
OEM Exhaust/Cats and front Springs delivered today!
Nice to meet you Greg and hope the rest of the front suspension rework goes smoothly.
Sent you a PM. Thanks. Found some slight movement in one of the lower ball joints. So, going to replace it all. Should I get the front end kit from Rockauto (Mavotech) or piece it together with moog? Got it all off already. Just need a good alignment after I get it back together.
Agent2006
01-14-2018, 01:42 PM
Hey Greg:
Welcome. Born/raised in MD grew up in Ellicott City. 1975 = Hicksville. Now : quite the tony suburb. Lots of Government manager types. Expect to sit a red light on Rt 40 and look around - you'll see a Prius and a Range Rover at every light. "Choose Civility" bumper stickers handed out by the Howard County Library - supposed to make the car jackers coming out from Baltimore City feel guilty. Lots of wonderful windy roads to cruise the MM!
Check Rock Auto - a pair of front/rear cats is only $228, front Moog springs are $65 bucks. For the ball joint replace the whole aluminum control arm, note there is a big set of nuts /bolt on there probably need to go buy a 23 mm box wrench, and 21 mm socket, who has those? Get the Moog or a mid priced lower CA/ball joint assembly for about $120, the cheapest one has the big stabilizer shaft nut cranked tight! will be hell to put on, the Moog and others come loose, install then tighten that. Sway bar links are cheap and usually break when trying to get them off. I'd piece together unless you just love front end work, uppers are a pain.
For MD - you can get a note from a doctor saying you need tint and the state will let it slide, (prior skin cancer, auto immune disease )
MD insp tags used to be good for 30 days.
oil adapter gasket is a pain but not expensive. It's only four/five bolts but have to drain coolant and oil to do it. and air burp the system.
EATC might need new silicone o rings easy to do or send your unit out for repair, it's like $200 bucks. I got some extras laying around PM me if you want I'll mail them for free. You need four I think.
If your tick is an injector maybe a mechanics stethoscope from harbor freight would help pinpoint the location. If it is from the timing cover might have timing chain guide issues. Used to be if it was a rod knock, deactivate each spark plug one at time and the spun rod bearing would quit making noise when that cylinder was unplugged.
Nothing that can't be fixed.
Cheers
Mike
camaro_dude15
01-14-2018, 03:26 PM
if you discover what that noise is please post your findings, mine is doing that exact same knock, and yes only when warm, i overheated mine and found out i was way low on coolant even though the overflow was at a normal level, i refilled and burped as per the procedure on this forum and the noise hasn't been as loud since but definitely still there
ByronRACE
01-15-2018, 10:00 AM
Mine was ticking like that. Diesel oil fixed it. I've been running delo for a long, long time now. The car has over 200K.
Edit. Specifically, I use this: http://www.chevronlubricants.com/en_US/products/products/delo-400-le-synthetic-5w-30.html#.WWU69YTythF
A valve cover leak can cause your ignition code. If oil leaks around the plug and wicks up onto the plug, it carries carbon with it. Carbon is conductive and causes the spark to jump between the insulator and the ceramic instead of across the spark gap in the combustion chamber; especially when the cylinder pressures get higher and it takes more voltage to jump the spark gap.
Look for oil down inside the spark plug hole around the plug and inside the coil insulator rubber.
Change the plugs. If they're original, they're done. Could just be that.
It could also be a loose plug; combustion gas leaking through/around the threads sounds like a tick noise...which usually becomes a boom noise before long.
ByronRACE
01-15-2018, 12:02 PM
You must use higher octane no option
There's an option; recalibrate for low octane fuel. I run 87 in mine; getting it completely happy on 87 took about a week of tweaking. It makes 15ish hp less at peak power which I find to be hardly noticeable, and gets 22mpg reliably. The part throttle, low rpm, mid to high load area of the spark table took the biggest hit; I had to pull as much as 6deg of spark in some areas. I can feel that, but don't care much.
ByronRACE
01-15-2018, 12:34 PM
Welcome Greg
This may be your oil leak issue. . .
http://www.instructables.com/id/Replace-Leaking-Oil-Filter-to-Block-Adapter-Gasket/
keep us all posted and enjoy your MM!
I guess I should finish that instructable; I just wanted to make sure I captured the pictures for the o-rings somewhere and threw that together. Hope it helps, sorry it's minimal.
ByronRACE
01-15-2018, 12:40 PM
For 12 bucks, this is an invaluable tool for having a look at things like plug threads, combustion chamber, even the valves. It comes with 90deg viewing adapters; which I recommend you secure VERY WELL if you choose to use them. I spent an hour retrieving one from my engine; it wasn't fun.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRY2YG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00? ie=UTF8&psc=1
Turbov6Bryan
01-15-2018, 12:56 PM
For 12 bucks, this is an invaluable tool for having a look at things like plug threads, combustion chamber, even the valves. It comes with 90deg viewing adapters; which I recommend you secure VERY WELL if you choose to use them. I spent an hour retrieving one from my engine; it wasn't fun.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRY2YG4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00? ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just bought one of these right after xmas. I have been playing with it for a week. Its a great tool!
And my ears are nice and clean too now, i bought the ebay one that has the kit for cleaning out ear wax. like 11 bux shipped :beer:
Update:
Got OEM springs and cats from Joe Walsh. Installed no problems.
Replaced entire front suspension and rear shocks. Aligned to carfix specs (almost).
Defrost only fixed with o rings from Agent2006.
Oil filter adapter plate gasket replaced. Fixed. Pain in the butt to oil filter on.
Replaced o rings on power steering hoses. Hopefully fixed.
Today had intermittent wiper problem. Would not come on. Then they decided to work later. Stopped working...then started working again. Next problem ...
Replaced cylinder G COP. Hopefully end to engine light.
Still need to diagnose engine knock. May need some local help on that one.
Passed Maryland inspection.
Getting there ....
RubberCtyRauder
02-04-2018, 05:43 PM
Read this, could be good chance why wipers act up
https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=47864
SteelQualityMan
02-04-2018, 05:44 PM
Update:
Got OEM springs and cats from Joe Walsh. Installed no problems.
Replaced entire front suspension and rear shocks. Aligned to carfix specs (almost).
Defrost only fixed with o rings from Agent2006.
Oil filter adapter plate gasket replaced. Fixed. Pain in the butt to oil filter on.
Replaced o rings on power steering hoses. Hopefully fixed.
Today had intermittent wiper problem. Would not come on. Then they decided to work later. Stopped working...then started working again. Next problem ...
Replaced cylinder G COP. Hopefully end to engine light.
Still need to diagnose engine knock. May need some local help on that one.
Passed Maryland inspection.
Getting there ....Just a suggestion, but I would replace all the COP's and plugs at the same time.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Marauderman
02-05-2018, 10:37 AM
Shermanator and his son have a shop in Prince William County in Northern Va, just south of you ,--- Cant remember his sons name nor screen name here--Maybe some others can jump in and say,,, I think taking it there to have him fix it all with an overall budget plan is the best for you,
crownvic97
02-05-2018, 02:22 PM
Update:
Got OEM springs and cats from Joe Walsh. Installed no problems.
Replaced entire front suspension and rear shocks. Aligned to carfix specs (almost).
Defrost only fixed with o rings from Agent2006.
Oil filter adapter plate gasket replaced. Fixed. Pain in the butt to oil filter on.
Replaced o rings on power steering hoses. Hopefully fixed.
Today had intermittent wiper problem. Would not come on. Then they decided to work later. Stopped working...then started working again. Next problem ...
Replaced cylinder G COP. Hopefully end to engine light.
Still need to diagnose engine knock. May need some local help on that one.
Passed Maryland inspection.
Getting there ....
So you have a misfire on cylinder 7 and an engine knock?...if so, there’s a chance you have the valve seat issue in the D/S cylinder head. Just something to keep in mind as a possibility.
MarauderOrlando
11-21-2018, 11:21 PM
Greg, any luck with that engine knock?
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