Mevotech Lower Control Arm Install - Help

[Greg]

I am new member with a 2003. In my new member post, I mentioned front end work. Anyway, I decided to just replace everything. I got all moog parts except for the lower control arm. Only Mevotech was available.

So, I got everything installed on one side and now think I may have made a mistake with the lower control arm bushing. The rear bushing was at a sharp angle when installing so I loosened the end bolt on the bushing which allowed it to rotate. Thinking back on it. If I had left it alone I probably could have rotated the arm up which would have probably placed the rear bushing plate flat against the frame.

Did I make a mistake loosening the rear bushing bolt during the install because it was set to some angle? OR, was I suppose to loosen the bolt, install, and then tighten after preload like the upper and front lower bushings?

Should I take it back off and set it like the other side new lower control arm rear bushing angle? Or, did I do this correctly?

I will also have to get a good alignment. Any ideas on where to go in the region between Baltimore and DC?

Side note: I rented a ball joint press and the lower ball joint pushed out with ease (remove the c clip). I briefly messed with the front bushing but it looks like it will be tough to remove. So, if you have a bad ball joint on the lower arm it can easily be replaced.

[Greg]

I looked at the original right side lower control arm and the new one. The angles of the rear bushing frame mount plate are not even close. So, this would indicate it is not a problem.

Just need some verification - I should loosen the rear bushing bolt when installing and then tighten after preloading by lowering vehicle.

Correct?

[Aerocoupe]

When you install the control arm on the car you need to preload them prior to tightening to spec. I typically install the control arms with the bolting a little more than hand tight. Get the vehicle such that you can load the suspension on all four corners. A four post lift or alignment rack is ideal but I will leave this up to the individual and their feel for safety. Once the suspension is loaded then tighten the fasteners to spec.

[Greg]

This includes the rear bushing on the lower control arm (the one nut on the bushing that is part of the bracket that mounts to the frame)? The reason I ask is because it looks like it is eccentric.

[Greg]

Here is a picture of the nut that I loosened before the install. So, just preload the suspension and tighten this nut like the other control arm bushings?

[Aerocoupe]

So the front mounting bolt on the LCA is used to adjust camber and the rear mount with the slot in it is used to adjust the caster. When you tighten them the bushing is then part of the joint and moves as such. If you tighten them in the neutral axis i.e. the suspension loaded then there is no preload on the bushings which is what you want. If you tighten them with the control arm either up or down of the neutral axis then you will preload the bushing and accelerate its wear and also induce added spring constant in one direction. Neither of which is ideal so that is why you torque the bolting in the neutral axis. Does that answer your question?

I am new to the forum but I know the short-long arm suspension pretty well though this one did throw me for a loop with the way the LCA mounts and adjusts. This was the thread I posted and learned how the suspension works:

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=105412

I have one on over on CV.net on the washer that is on the back bushings here:

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=3841657#Post3841657

So with me only using the IFS on my '70 F100 that is the extent of my knowledge on these cars so any other questions and the guys here will surely get you squared up, good bunch of knowledgeable folks on here.

[Agent2006]

Greg: You will never get that control arm on with that nut cranked down. It'll fight you really hard. It won't want to rotate where you need it to be. I did one on my Grand marquis and did not loosen it, and the job wore me out. Then I did one on my MM and it was much! easier. Took half the time. I'd make sure the car was still level on all four wheels before I tightened that down just to be on the safe side.

for alignment work I'd go to a Ford dealer, Apple Ford over in Columbia is pretty good. Avoid the tire shops on Rt 40.

[Greg]

Thank you. I was thinking the slots in the three bolts that hold the bracket to the frame is the adjustment location. So, I didn't mess up by loosening the nut (actually right thing to do) and will do the other side. Then on to get an alignment hopefully by someone that knows what they are doing.

[Aerocoupe]

Don't forget to take Carfixer's alignment specs with you. Top of this forum, second sticky down.

[1Marauder]

Don't forget to take Carfixer's alignment specs with you. Top of this forum, second sticky down.


Don't forget:
You will need the SBC bolts AND the tool for get to Carfixer alignment specs too!

[Mr. Man]

Don't forget:
You will need the SBC bolts AND the tool for get to Carfixer alignment specs too!I was under the impression you only need the SBC bolts if the front end is lowered. If the car is OEM height the aligner will need to pop the flags off to get Carfixer specs.:confused:

[Greg]

Got all the suspension on. Still not sure how it will all align up. Will take it to a Ford dealer this week with the specs from here. Hopefully all is good.

[Greg]

So, I have everything together and have an appointment for alignment on Friday Feb 2. Hopefully I have everything together correctly. I don't see how there is adjustment with the lower control arm bolt. Was there supposed to be something behind the bolt head plate? I guess it is supposed to move up and down in a slot. But, how does it move with the plate hooked around the bottom? Again, was something supposed to be behind that plate like a washer. I don't recall there being anything when I took the original off.

Please explain.

[Greg]

PS: None of the diagrams I found show anything behind. Other images I have seen show something different than the plate.

[RubberCtyRauder]

that plate we call an alignment flag, on lowered cars, itvneeds to be removed to get alignment camber.. they also sell camber bolts which require grinding a slot and eccentric washers are provoded. They are made by SPC

[Greg]

Since it is not lowered I guess the tech should have no problems.

[Aerocoupe]

Meh, I would not go there but most likely that is the case. Being that I am starting from scratch I went ahead and got the camber kits so that I would not have to do this with the IFS under the truck. I purchased the SPC camber kit here (does both sides):

http://adtr.net/product/ford-crown-victoria/spc-performance-alignment-bolts/

[Greg]

Since I didn’t lower I should be good to go.

[RubberCtyRauder]

there are times when tbe flags need removed but the spc camber bolts not needed. factory tolerance is pretty wide for aligning, but doesn't mean it wont cause inner tire wear. an issue since the beginning of tbe car. and carfixers specs might need removal of flags. every car is different

[Greg]

Thanks all for the info

[fastblackmerc]

It's been my experience that the flags do need to be removed as there is very little "meat" for a socket or wrench to grab on to with the flags on.

[justbob]

Without removing them it is a valid excuse to get it “as close as he could”. If they even bother telling you..

Take them off lowered or not, zero excuses for not enough adjustment. Because yes, there is much more adjustability once they are removed.

Remember, most of these cars left the factory eating the inside rubber. Add to that a fifteen year old car now. Like it or not, your car is indeed lowered..


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[Agent2006]

My suggestion:

Let a good Ford dealer do this, see where you are now and see what the recommendation is. These are tough taxi/fleet cars, plenty of curb jumping, wrecks and high speed maneuvers are built into the design. Apple Ford is one I'd try, Koons Ford on Security is OK there are others near you.

[Greg]

Update:

The ford dealer did the alignment with no issues. Said he got as close as he could. Looks close to me. He did have to remove the flags. Attached is a picture of the flag removed. I didn't realize that offset washer was behind it. Also attached are the final alignment specs. Seems to drive well.

What do you think?