Suspension Squeak

[NorthShoreChiMM]

Hey guys,
For some reason my marauder wanted to present another issue at the same time of a different one. Just going to be one of those weeks. I have been hearing a occational squeak for the past 6 weeks, maybe like 1 squeak every time I drove it, or not at all during some drives, so it didn't bother me, and that squeak would occur when I go over a pothole or bump in the road. Now I am hearing it all the time when I go over bumps/dips in the road. It also occurs mainly when turning right WHILE MOVING, rarely squeaking while turning left while moving. But when I turn the wheel while NOT moving, (In park or foot on brake), no squeak. Furthermore I hear it when braking and the weight is on the front of the vehicle,(No its not the brakes already checked and have all new pads, rotors and calipers like 6 months ago.) All of my suspension is stock except the rear "Poverty Coils" which the PO had put in when the bags blew. Let me know what you guys think.
PS, I also hear the squeak when the car is off, and I shut my door and the body tilts a bit, (NO its not the hinge). Thank you, I appreciate the expertise,
Mike

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Start with the easy stuff, like checking for the infamous hood squeak.

[BronxBorn]

I had a lot of the squeaking you described and when I raised the height of the hood bumper stops it went away.

[RubberCtyRauder]

rubber seal driver side at cowl where hood seals against, silicone spray. my 03 cv sport would squeak when shutting door and various bumps

[ByronRACE]

Hood stops. Swaybar bushings. Ball joints. Hungry mouse.

[NorthShoreChiMM]

Will do, Ill let you know if this fixes it.

[NorthShoreChiMM]

Still squeaking after silicone on hood seal, raised hood stops, still squeaks. I thought all the bushings, and ball joints had non grease-able fittings. I remember hearing that the grease was good for the life of the part. What next

[Svashtar]

Still squeaking after silicone on hood seal, raised hood stops, still squeaks. I thought all the bushings, and ball joints had non grease-able fittings. I remember hearing that the grease was good for the life of the part. What next


With me it was the hood and the worn Metco poly CA bushings which squeaked like crazy. I lubed the bushings, and dropped in F350 rubber hood bumpers, and put a dab of chassis lube on the standard hood bumper stops. Then adjusted them out a bit. That pretty much solved it.

[1Marauder]

Simple easy fast.


Buy a role of higher quality electricians tape. (Not the .99 cent black tape, but the $4.99 real rubberized kind).


Hard to put into words:


Cut a 5 inch piece, open hood, look up, and gently wrap the "U BAR" under the nose of the hood lid -- the "U bar" hood connector that actually goes into the hood slotted clamp lock.


Then look down and at each front corner of your hood/engine plastic front face plate (covers the highlights etc...), and turn the rubber round hood supports at each corner 1/2 to 3/4 turn counter clockwise. Then Put a dab of white lithium grease on top of each (as per above post). I actually also put a felt circle (sticker) on the bottom of the hood where the round hood supports touched the under-hood.

I had the worst hood squeak ever... and when the group helped figure out what it was, I actually bought 100 black heat shrink rubber 4inch pieces, and was going to make kits for everyone... just never got around to doing it.


The above should solve it 98% of the time.

If the above this doesn't fix it all -- or you now hear another lighter pitched squeak ( I had two), white lithium grease spray parking brake cable and rubber cable "riser/separator" under driver's side rear door / driver's side rear foot well area. There is a rubber "riser" there that keeps P-Brake cable from touching the undercarriage. The rubber gets dirty/dry and rubs a worn spot against the bottom of car body. It also moves around some. I coated the entire cable, cable joints, and the rubber "riser" because the P-Brake had never been used here in the CA Valley.

[PonyGuy]

Simple easy fast.


Buy a role of higher quality electricians tape. (Not the .99 cent black tape, but the $4.99 real rubberized kind).


Hard to put into words:


Cut a 5 inch piece, open hood, look up, and gently wrap the "U BAR" under the nose of the hood lid -- the "U bar" hood connector that actually goes into the hood slotted clamp lock.
I had that problem on my GMQ a few years ago... I was going to do the Scotch #88 tape trick... but when I looked at the "U-bar" it was worn more than halfway through where the latch grabbed it. Frankly, that scared the crap out of me, and I replaced the "U-bar"... the new part (from Ford) was redesigned...

[1Marauder]

I had that problem on my GMQ a few years ago... I was going to do the Scotch #88 tape trick... but when I looked at the "U-bar" it was worn more than halfway through where the latch grabbed it. Frankly, that scared the crap out of me, and I replaced the "U-bar"... the new part (from Ford) was redesigned...



YES! This too! And wrap the new one before installing!

[justbob]

I had that problem on my GMQ a few years ago... I was going to do the Scotch #88 tape trick... but when I looked at the "U-bar" it was worn more than halfway through where the latch grabbed it. Frankly, that scared the crap out of me, and I replaced the "U-bar"... the new part (from Ford) was redesigned...



^ This. The striker plate is known to get a grove worn into it from the latch. I did a couple of spot welds on mine to build it back up and ground it smooth years ago.


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