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musclemerc
04-06-2018, 03:45 PM
I fabricated this kit -5- years ago. Some of you have read it some of you haven't.

Trilogy made a total of 250 kits, this one is #251H (Hybrid)

I picked up a slightly used Trilogy supercharger from Hotford, he upgraded to a twin screw, all the other Trilogy accessories were kept on his car, I got the SC with a 3.0 upper pulley, and a stock Trilogy lower pulley.

As more Trilogy owners make the transition to twin screw their old superchargers will become more available.

Hopefully this thread will help someone else put a kit together.

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0794.jpg~original

The rotors show no visible signs of wear
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0806.jpg~original

All of the Trilogy specific parts will have to be fabricated, unfortunatly they are now out of the Marauder market. Here is what I did to make the IC reservoir bracket

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0717.jpg~original

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0719.jpg~original

These were easy to make, I used a piece of angled 1-1/2" aluminum stock and hit them with 2 primer, 3 coats semi gloss paint, then 2 coats of matte finish clear coat.

I began by making a cardboard cut out of the fender contour, then transfered it to the aluminum stock

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0722.jpg~original

To install the bracket you have to remove the mount for the shock that supports the hood with a 1/2" deep socket.

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0721.jpg~original

You will need to put a flat screwdriver through the slot to remove the shock

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0723.jpg~original

Give it a pull and it comes right out.

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0724.jpg~original

Slide the bracket into place then reinstall the shock for the hood.

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0727.jpg~original

I made the mount so it has 3 points to bolt to the fender, this will keep the reservoir from vibrating while driving, heres a pic with the reservoir in place
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0731.jpg~original

musclemerc
04-06-2018, 03:46 PM
The short bracket I made goes under the reservoir to give it strength, soo it's a sandwich design. I didn't feel comfortable bolting directly to the bottom of the plastic unit.

Here is a side shot of the install.

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0733.jpg~original

I fabbed up some PCV hard lines out of 5/8" aluminum tubing, the ends are flared. My plan is to paint them black or polish them.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0734.jpg~original

Now I have plenty of clearance for the top hose to connect to the reservoir.

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0736.jpg~original

Before attempting to install the heat exchanger I had to make a horn relocate bracket. I used a piece of 1-1/4" aluminum flat stock (be sure to heat the aluminum with a torch before bending it). I decided to reuse the stock horn mount, all I had to do is flip the horns on the bracket to reverse the orientation for additional clearance.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0744.jpg~original

Make sure the new bracket does not contact the evaporator core.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0747.jpg~original

Now is also a good time to relocate the Ambient Temp sensor. I always solder automotive connectors, crimp connectors have a higher possibility of failure from corrosion and vibration.

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0749.jpg~original

Cut the wires to the sensor diffrent lengths so there is no chance of having a hard short.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0748.jpg~original

A pair of helping hands is a good tool to make this an easy task.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0751.jpg~original

After the solder cools hit them with shrink tape and a heat gun. Last wrap them in wire loom and secure the harness to the car with tie wraps.

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0755.jpg~original

The ambient temp sensor was relocated down below where the air diverter is located. Here is a shot of the new mount for the sensor. I used a nut from a brass 3/8" NPT connector
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0781.jpg~original

musclemerc
04-06-2018, 03:47 PM
It bolts through the center piece of hardware on the diverter. I added some weatherstripping to the back side of the diverter to seal the gap thats created by adding the bracket.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0785.jpg~original


Here is the sensor in place
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0787.jpg~original

Now all thats done I have to get the heat exchanger fabbed up.

I used some 1-1/2" angled aluminum stock and some leftover 5/8" SS pipe. I try to use materials where even if the paint starts to chip, rust wont be an issue down the road.

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0761.jpg~original

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0760.jpg~original

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0763.jpg~original

For the bottom mounts I had to break out the Dewalt close quater drill. This came in very handy for getting holes drilled in tight spots

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0757.jpg~original

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0758.jpg~original

Here is a shot of the stud inplace
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0756.jpg~original

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0762.jpg~original

musclemerc
04-06-2018, 03:48 PM
Before you install the IC pump its a good idea to extend the wire harness to the correct length.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0775.jpg~original

I did'nt use the SS sheet metal screws included with the I/C pump kit from frozenboost.com. I drilled it out and installed nuts with nylon inserts and stainless steel bolts to keep the hardware from vibrating loose.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0766.jpg~original

Here's the pump installed. It wasn't tightened down when I took this pic.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0776.jpg~original

Wire harness installed
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0779.jpg~original

Here is the relay I'm using for the pump. I picked it up from a local 4x4 shop, it's waterproof on both ends (wireharness and relay housing)
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0792.jpg~original

I went ahead and finished wiring the relay for the I/C pump.

Here's where I put the weatherproof relay
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0818.jpg~original

I installed the KB BAP and put it on the inside of the rail to keep the carpet cover in its original form. I put rubber bumpers on the back side of the BAP to avoid any metal to metal contact on these tough Mississippi roads
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0934.jpg~original

I put the adjustment knob here after I cut out the extra mile of cable they include with the kit.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0936.jpg~original

I started the modification the I/C flange for the Trilogy adapter plate.
The easiest way to do this is to install the bolts that do line up then transfer the hole pattern to the I/C flange
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0803.jpg~original

I used my Daughter's paint kit to mark the bolt patern to the I/C flange
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0804.jpg~original

musclemerc
04-06-2018, 03:49 PM
This is what it looks like after drilling all the holes out.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0805.jpg~original

One thing I didn't have to do was drill the adapter plate for an IAT sensor.

This is a revision Trilogy made years after making the mistake of leaving it in the stock Marauder MAF.
While I was at it I soldered the brass fittings for the boost guage and FRPS mod
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0816.jpg~original

The Eaton lower intake has to be modified to fit the Trilogy. This wedge has to be removed
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0795.jpg~original

Here it is after the removal
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0799.jpg~original

Got everything together for the assembly. I sourced the exact same hardware Trilogy used in their kit.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0814.jpg~original

Here she is ready to go!
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0807.jpg~original

My hose manifold finally showed up from CNC :-)

I plan on keeping the stock lower tstat location. This manifold will allow me to route the upper radiator hose, tstat bypass hose, and two 3/4" barbed fittings for both cylinder heads. Basically a poor mans COT delete

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0825.jpg~original


http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0826.jpg~original

This is how I plan on burping the system. 5/8" hose to a tall funnel. The barbed fitting is removed after burping the system, a flush (allen head) plug is installed in its place.

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0838.jpg~original

I made these fittings to delete the COT, they have a left/right orientation. I want the PS hose to route as low as possible. I want the DS hose to become the high spot in the system (no need to jack up the front end to burp the system). The air gap is installed on the DS.

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0831.jpg~original

musclemerc
04-06-2018, 03:49 PM
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0832.jpg~original



http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0837.jpg~original

I installed one of my 5/8" cooling mods. No clearance issues whatsoever :-)
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0861.jpg~original

DS cooling mod fitting
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0862.jpg~original

I will finish routing the output of the cooling mod to the inlet (Siege's hose routing mod) after I install the wiper cowl. I already plumed the output of the heater core to the pipe that runs under the lower intake to the back of the water pump.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0865.jpg~original

I wanted to keep the knock sensor in the stock location so this is what I came up with to keep it there.
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0919.jpg~original

I drilled/tapped, then put a stud through the original boss. The sensor is held with a lock washer and nut with a nylon insert
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0918.jpg~original

One of the biggest hurdles was figuring out how to make a throttle cable bracket. This is what I came up with
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0927.jpg~original

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0926.jpg~original

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0925.jpg~original

musclemerc
04-06-2018, 03:50 PM
I used Terry's Eaton Swap brackets, the SC tensioner bracket had to be shortened 5/16" to line up with the SC belt. I went ahead and polished them while I was at it. They work great without any issues. I also used a Roush 3 bolt tensioner for the SC belt. Cant beat it for $120.00

Here it is after all the work was done :))))) It started right up on the first crank
http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0930.jpg~original

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0931.jpg~original

http://i790.photobucket.com/albums/yy182/musclemerc/IMG_0928.jpg~original

musclemerc
04-06-2018, 03:58 PM
After years of fun and trouble free operation @13.5psi I sold this kit to a fellow MM owner.

https://i.imgur.com/rY0fU1q.jpg?1

I'm looking to make more boost in the future so the stock MM high compression block also has to go.

https://i.imgur.com/0dItZgll.jpg

TrilogyMarauder
04-06-2018, 03:59 PM
Nice job! :burnout:

loud2004marquis
04-06-2018, 04:18 PM
Nice Write Up Sir! What are you replacing the Trilogy with?

Gerry24
04-06-2018, 07:40 PM
Thanks for the pics and the write up! Keep us posted!

MM03MOK
04-06-2018, 07:47 PM
Great job with your narrative and pictures!!!

lji372
04-06-2018, 11:55 PM
Who let him back? :lol:

musclemerc
04-07-2018, 05:48 AM
Nice Write Up Sir! What are you replacing the Trilogy with?

This is the parts list for my new build.

Engine Components:

Terminator Forged Short Block (stock)
2003 MM Heads with 9 thread inserts
Melling HV Oil Pump
Terminator Lower Intake
Griffin high flow intercooler
FRPP GT500 TVS Supercharger
VMP Gen1 TVS elbow
VMP Mechanical Super Cobra Jet SBTB
Cobra Engineering GT500 adapter plate kit
Cobra Engineering Rear Cooling Mod
GT500 Slot MAF
JLT Carbon Fiber CAI
Innovators West Harmonic Balancer with Metco Adapter
Metco Stock lower ring
Billet Flow 2:93 upper pulley (93oct)
Billet Flow 2:76 upper pulley (race gas)
LFP 10 rib Idler Pulley
Jerry's SS COT tube
Jerry's HD SC brackets
Thump RRR SC Tensioner
Thump RRR 76mm idler
Custom 10pint Intercooler Reservoir
Frozen Boost Type 100 intercooler

Fuel System:

FRPP 60lb injectors
Stock Fuel Rails
Dual GT supercar pumps
Dual FPDM's
Dual (in tank) Wiring
full wiring upgrade
KB BAP w/4lb hobbs switch

Drivetrain:

PRW 8 Bolt Flex Plate
PI 3000 stall
4R70E Built Transmission
31 Spline Axles
Cobra C/F Differential
FRPP 4:10's

Exhaust:

Stainless Works LT Headers
MAC Prochamber Mid Pipe
Stock Mufflers

musclemerc
04-07-2018, 05:49 AM
Great job with your narrative and pictures!!!

Thanks Mary