Musclemerc Is Back And He's Bringing New Power With Him [Archive]

musclemerc

04-07-2018, 07:11 AM

I felt the need for more power so I called an old friend from SVTperformance.com and talked him out of the Terminator engine he's been holding for the past 7 years. The block is 100% stock and had about 27,000mi on it when he pulled it for an Aluminator.

https://i.imgur.com/VHiux6kl.jpg

I had just completed the construction of my new home shop so time is on my side. I now have plenty of space for my projects and weather wont affect my getting it done.

https://i.imgur.com/wdSaiaOl.jpg

I found a buyer for my stock Marauder block so I got the green light to move ahead with the new build. The owner of my original block is a fellow Marauder owner that I bartered with for a set of widened wheels. This was a WIN for both parties.

https://i.imgur.com/O6Dp71bl.jpg

I came up with a list and a plan for new power and the first must was a driver side inlet. This need left me with only 1 option. Call James Hell....
He's the owner of Cobra Engineering. After placing my parts order with him I made a cut sheet on parts I wanted.

This is the component list for my new build.

Engine Components:

Terminator Forged Short Block (stock)
2003 MM Heads with 9 thread inserts
Melling HV Oil Pump
Terminator Lower Intake
Griffin high flow intercooler
FRPP GT500 TVS Supercharger Gen1
VMP Gen1 TVS elbow
VMP Mechanical Super Cobra Jet SBTB
Cobra Engineering GT500 adapter plate kit
Cobra Engineering Rear Cooling Mod
GT500 Slot MAF
JLT Carbon Fiber CAI
Innovators West Harmonic Balancer with Metco Adapter
Metco Stock lower ring
Billet Flow 2:93 upper pulley (93oct)
Billet Flow 2:76 upper pulley (race gas)
LFP 10 rib Idler Pulley
Jerry's SS COT tube
Jerry's HD SC brackets
Thump RRR SC Tensioner
Thump RRR 76mm idler
Custom 10pint Intercooler Reservoir
Frozen Boost Type 100 Heat Exchanger

Fuel System:

FRPP 60lb injectors
Stock Fuel Rails
Dual GT supercar pumps
Dual FPDM's
Dual (in tank) Wiring
full wiring upgrade
KB BAP w/4lb hobbs switch

Drivetrain:

PRW 8 Bolt Flex Plate
PI 3000 stall
4R70E Built Transmission
31 Spline Axles
Cobra C/F Differential
FRPP 4:10's

Exhaust:

Stainless Works LT Headers
Full 3" SS mandrel bent exhaust
Stock resonated tips

I picked up a slightly used Ford Racing TVS 2300. I chose a Gen1 unit mostly because it has the removable elbow. This makes injector, COP, and plug swaps on the DS a breeze. With the 1 piece unit you must remove the SC to access the back of the cylinder.

The OEM Gen2 TVS was a no go for me because I would have to send it out to BPS to have the 5.8L logo machined off. Although the inlet is larger than the Gen1. I felt it was a small trade off. Here's the SC after I received it.

https://i.imgur.com/p7XVwMYl.jpg

VMP performance quickly became my go to place for questions and TVS specific parts. I ordered the "elbow" for my SC and also sprung for a mechanical Cobra Jet single blade throttle body. I also picked up a TVS pulley puller kit. All I can say is they're second to none with their support and products.

https://i.imgur.com/RsFn1ewl.jpg

The throttle body opening is BIG...

https://i.imgur.com/gZPuiqCl.jpg

My next purchase was an impulse buy. Everyone knows I'm a short tube guy but, to make serious power I had to come to the reality long tube headers are the only way to go. I didn't want any BS so I ordered a set of Stainless Works headers. Took them a month to get here but it was well worth the wait. Their quality is second to none.

https://i.imgur.com/IIIMNvvl.jpg

My next round of parts were some of the hardest to find. With all the Terminator swaps and the age of the Cobra's the lower intakes, IC pass through plates, and valley heater hoses are getting harder and harder to find. After months of looking I got the needed parts, cleaned them up, and got them on the shelf.

My next task was to shake down Jerry. There was no way I was going to go through this build and not use his custom bits. At first he was hard to find but after I made some noise I got him on the phone and he started making my parts. I ordered his HD supercharger bracket and SS COT, in the end I ended up with a whole lot more. Thanks Jerry for helping me pull this off!!!

At this point parts are ordered, commitments were made, the new engine is on the stand, and parts are being shipped in. I took a long stare at my hollowed out engine bay and went through a thorough degreasing of the K member.

https://i.imgur.com/SenWrFll.jpg

The birds nest that had become of the AC system bothered me the most. I ordered a stronger material from DEI and made this from 1 solid piece of aluminum coated insulation. It was a PITA but the finished product was just as I imagined it

https://i.imgur.com/HW9qvU6l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hVAX2aZl.jpg

blkZooM

04-07-2018, 07:25 AM

Very nice setup, big fan of TVS superchargers. Could you share information on the company you used for your intercooler reservoir. What is he target psi you are aiming for?

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musclemerc

04-07-2018, 07:27 AM

While working to clean up the engine bay I kept thinking about how to carry more intercooler fluid without moving the battery to the trunk or placing an intercooler reservoir in the trunk. I searched the web and found a company that produced spun aluminum gas tanks, gave them some specs and had them fabricate a 10 pint intercooler reservoir that would fit in the recessed area in the fender. My old setup carried a total of about 1.5 gallons of fluid, this new setup yields a total of 2.75 gallons. The NPT fittings are 1/2" which will allow me to stay 3/4" from the pump to the rez, to the heat exchanger.

https://i.imgur.com/KuShGJTl.jpg

After I got the intercooler system figured out their was no way I was going to put a 14 year old intercooler in my new setup. I've read way too many horror stories about the glue flaking off. I hit the web looking for a new unit and LFPperformance.com became my go to place. They sell the upgraded Griffin intercooler with their name on it. This unit is fully TIG welded (no adhesive) and it has a better designed core for improved flow with both air and fluid.

https://i.imgur.com/Pv7dqg4l.jpg

At this point I'm spending money like a maniac. UPS is at my door 4 times a week, and my wife is just face palming. I get on rockauto.com and order all new timing assembly, every replacement engine gasket, and at least a truck load of parts to finish the build.

So now I've got a room full of parts and I loose contact with the guy who's parts are the center of the build. James Hell is now MIA.... I call, I email, I hit the forums and he's nowhere to be found. Finally he pops up and says I broke one of my machines and I'm having a hard time finishing the parts you ordered.

I cant tell you how he pulled it off but, he managed to get my parts fabricated and he made it known I got the last of the rear cooling mods and he may not be able to make them again. A week later everything shows up and to my relief the parts James made for me were way better than I expected.

I've dreaded chopping up a perfectly good TVS for months. It was now time to jump in and get started. I have to admit this isn't for everyone and I don't advise you to try this unless your 100% comfortable with the possibility you could ruin a perfectly good supercharger.

Here we go:

The supercharger has to opened up, the screw pack, and the snout needs to be removed.

https://i.imgur.com/av0ghdxl.jpg

All you should have left is an empty case and the rotor bearings. Place packing tape over the bearings and tape up the entire housing to avoid getting any damage to the powdercoat.

https://i.imgur.com/n6DQHJTl.jpg

It's required to remove almost half the height of the base of the supercharger bolt downs so the fuel rails can fit. Also you cant use aftermarket fuel rails as they will not fit.

https://i.imgur.com/1Ys5R3Ul.jpg

You also have to "obow" a few of the bolt downs so the hardware can line up with the adapter plate. I used a burr attachment and a cordless drill to complete the task.

https://i.imgur.com/aJIjOOMl.jpg

The front bolt down on the DS had to be cut of by at least 2/3 to clear the COT. I also had to machine the inside corner of the supercharger for additional clearance. Its amazing how much bigger the GT500 TVS is versus the Terminator

https://i.imgur.com/6AkdfS0l.jpg

The PS required less work. BTW this hole as well as a few others get countersunk so the bolt sits flush

https://i.imgur.com/trd0RUKl.jpg

Here it is after the front machine work is complete.

https://i.imgur.com/Q0tv1dKl.jpg

Here is the final mock up after removing a whole lot of material and a whole lot of butt clenching. The rails and injectors fit perfect and there is just enough material removed to pop the COT fittings on/off

https://i.imgur.com/u9KuK6nl.jpg

justbob

04-07-2018, 07:31 AM

Looking good T!

I certainly remember the daily deliveries myself..

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RubberCtyRauder

04-07-2018, 07:31 AM

I have an LFP intercooler as well..I like your build

MOTOWN

04-07-2018, 07:49 AM

Welcome back Travis! That new build is looking good!

musclemerc

04-07-2018, 09:09 AM

While i was already cutting and chopping I needed to modify the VMP elbow so I can "blank" the not needed pcv provisions. I knocked out the pressed in tube and threaded the elbow for blank allen head inserts

https://i.imgur.com/1SUzPeMl.jpg

This had to be done on 2 locations with 2 different size holes.
https://i.imgur.com/oxeXnpcl.jpg

I completed the install of the Cobra Engineering adapter plate and the intercooler. I took a pic to show the discharge area of the supercharger in relation to the intercooler.

https://i.imgur.com/pOjKQDml.jpg

This pic doesn't do justice for how big this area really is. Notice the lack of oval holes Ford used to quiet down blower whine in the M112. This thing is gonna scream when I get into boost.

At this point I need to reassemble the supercharger but before doing so I wiped every part down with 99.98% alcohol. Last thing I want is a SC oil leak after doing all this work

https://i.imgur.com/Czn7eMMl.jpg

I pressed on the supercharger extension hub from Cobra engineering, installed the new timing assembly, HV oil pump, oil pick up, my old Stewart water pump, a set of ARP head studs, head gaskets, torque the heads, and installed the IC water outlet.

https://i.imgur.com/iM8T0qZl.jpg

Shortly afterwards I get a knock on my shop door... My 12 year old says delivery for Mr. Musclemerc, Its a box from the legend himself Jerry.

I get a text from Jerry "you got the parts Travis? I need you to mock up the head fittings and ship them back to me for TIG welding."

Good thing he didn't preassemble these because I immediately see clearance issues. I had to cut the PS pipe at an angle to slope away from the SC or it wouldn't fit. The DS was just fine.

https://i.imgur.com/Mxgzp8Tl.jpg

I get the fitting tack welded with some SS welding wire and move on to mocking up the HD brackets.

AS I stated earlier if you hate the thought of modifying parts this build isn't for you. I had belt clearance issues with the 6 rib setup but it was an easy fix. The large area is modified to clear the belt. The small area is to clear the water pump pulley.

https://i.imgur.com/S0Y2fvvl.jpg

I forgot to mention I installed my Innovators West balancer, installed my Metco stock size lower ring, Billet Flow 2:93 upper ring, and I mocked up the Thump RRR tensioner. I learned from the Trilogy build idler diameter plays a very important role in SC belt tensioning so I wont order the idler for the tensioner until I get belt length figured out. Belt slip wont be an issue if you do your homework correctly.

https://i.imgur.com/vW1hQkil.jpg

The supercharger pulley and lower pulley lined up perfectly. I put a level on and the bubble was dead center.

https://i.imgur.com/J80w5ywl.jpg

crownvic97

04-07-2018, 10:55 AM

Incredible work!

Themarauderguy

04-07-2018, 10:58 AM

Man that is a really nice and awesome build!!! love to see people still enthused with these Marauders! I'm enjoying my built engine car I bought from Member Court.

tbone

04-07-2018, 11:02 AM

Simply amazing. I don't know how you figure out how to do all this work.....
You were indispensable when you helped me on my build 4 years ago. Still can't thank you enough!

musclemerc

04-07-2018, 11:34 AM

As you can see from this pic the PS COT fitting is being a *****. I just put it to the back of my mind, sent it off to Jerry for TIG welding, and deal with this clearance issue in the near future.

https://i.imgur.com/naiQRfvl.jpg

You can also get a good look at the extension hub from Cobra Engineering. The hub puts you at Eaton M112 length without changing out the front snout.

On another note I did my research on TVS compressor maps and figured a stock lower and 2:93 upper should put me around 17~19psi which is perfect for the street driven TVS. My 2:76 and stock lower will put me around 20~22psi for this I will need to run race fuel. I wish E85 was more available here in the south.

With everything I got going on here I cannot stop staring at this one piece for some reason. :cool:

https://i.imgur.com/k2TSjRgl.jpg

Now the daydream session is over with i mocked up my used GT500 JLT C/F silencer delete. This is an item that's no longer in production from JLT. My plan is to use a stock GT500 filter housing as it has provisions for a slot style MAF. I got lucky and picked one up from an ebay seller for $50.00 MAF included. I know the Marauder filter location will need modification but oh well.

I swapped out all the band clamps for T-Bolt fasteners and the silicone connectors that came with the JLT silencer delete will be swapped out for silicone hump hose connectors

https://i.imgur.com/VFxALzwl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ro6o6d3l.jpg

While I'm waiting for the COT fittings to return I continue mocking up parts. I made the move to the back of the engine and install the Cobra Engineering cooling mod, a full set of SS studs for the headers, and the SW LT's

https://i.imgur.com/JwQQBl7l.jpg

I pull the PRW flex plate off the shelf and install it with all new ARP bolts to keep her nice and tight.

I've read so many previous threads from others needing to drill or oblong the flex plate. I can afford any surprises so I pulled my PI convertor and did a test fit. The bolt pattern lined up perfectly. I didn't have to drill anything so needless to say I marked the correct holes on the flex plate and put the torque convertor back in place.

https://i.imgur.com/JYWFvCil.jpg

That cooling mod sure is nice!!

https://i.imgur.com/dbZj0ntl.jpg

At this point I feel like I'm ahead of the game. all the problems are solved. I remove all the mocked up parts and start thinking about aesthetics.

I had no desire to replace my Ford Racing COP covers (the ones with the large font are impossible to find) but they, along with the Thump RR tensioner and Super Cobra Jet SBTB produced way too much bling for my taste. Paired with the C/F CAI it looked a little silly to me, so I decided to take a break and breathe a lil. I 'll deal with deblinging these at a later date.

https://i.imgur.com/cV6g8PJl.jpg

During the brake I fabbed up a Boost/Vacuum reference manifold with provisions for the boost bypass valve, the FRPS, and the boost gauge. I used a double walled hose so it wouldn't collapse or crease on 90* turns

https://i.imgur.com/rREPaWKl.jpg

justbob

04-07-2018, 12:24 PM

musclemerc

04-07-2018, 12:47 PM

musclemerc

04-07-2018, 12:52 PM

Looking good T!

I certainly remember the daily deliveries myself..

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Bob.

I have an LFP intercooler as well..I like your build

Thanks Bro. What are your IAT's like?

Welcome back Travis! That new build is looking good!

Roger that Roger. I know you got something coming, I better get out your way. LOL

Incredible work!

Thanks!

Man that is a really nice and awesome build!!! love to see people still enthused with these Marauders! I'm enjoying my built engine car I bought from Member Court.

I remember Court. Did your car come with JBA shorties? I made the EGR extension for him.

Simply amazing. I don't know how you figure out how to do all this work.....
You were indispensable when you helped me on my build 4 years ago. Still can't thank you enough!

Thanks Tbone, I'm here whenever you need me. I know your car is a beast!

musclemerc

04-07-2018, 12:54 PM

Travis, at 19#s I was blowing off a couple of vacuum lines that were zip tied down and did a quick fix with super glue then zip ties to finish up the dyno. At 26#s I blew off the vacuum line under the dash for the HVAC LOL. I still plan to convert all that I possibly can over to AN including a custom manifold on the firewall whenever I feel like taking the time to itemize and order.

Just reminding you of the obvious. [emoji1303]

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Yup.... That was on my mind the whole time. That's why I used double walled hose and SS band clamps on every connector. Hopefully she'll stay put Bob.

That must have been fun watching the boost come up and vac lines start blowing off. :lol:

RubberCtyRauder

04-07-2018, 01:47 PM

I have a killer chiller too so my iats were like 100 in GA heat.

tbone

04-07-2018, 01:48 PM

Travis, at 19#s I was blowing off a couple of vacuum lines that were zip tied down and did a quick fix with super glue then zip ties to finish up the dyno. At 26#s I blew off the vacuum line under the dash for the HVAC LOL. I still plan to convert all that I possibly can over to AN including a custom manifold on the firewall whenever I feel like taking the time to itemize and order.

Just reminding you of the obvious. [emoji1303]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OOOh, Travis is getting Bobby motivated again! :beer:

tbone

04-07-2018, 01:56 PM

I think this is the best thread I have seen on this site since I joined up in 09. It motivated me to renew my subscription and now I want to run out to the garage and get busy finishing up some MM projects that have been on the back burner for some time now. And get my RC airplanes ready for the summer. Install the K&N filter in my Suzuki Bandit. Clean out the garage. Rake the yard. Power wash the siding. Vacuum out my work car for the first time in 2 years....

Travis for President!

justbob

04-07-2018, 02:31 PM

hotford

04-07-2018, 03:39 PM

awesome build, this is how I would do it if I started all over again!!
can't wait to see what she lays down!!!

lji372

04-07-2018, 08:50 PM

Damn that is looking sexy.

Awesome write up along with pictures travis :bows:

8UWITH6

04-08-2018, 07:42 AM

Guess I should work on my junk sometime soon thanks a lot! LOL

tbone

04-08-2018, 10:06 AM

It’s 38*, put the beer down and disregard all the sunshine that’s lying to you!

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lol
Cheer up Negative Nancy. :burnout:

musclemerc

04-08-2018, 10:26 AM

I came up with a cost effective way to debling my Ford Racing COP covers, oil cap, and intercooler reservoir. Plastidip was the best alternative. I hit them with several coats and was quite pleased with the outcome

https://i.imgur.com/OHNlPXKl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/l9VSG7Il.jpg

Looks way better next to the carbon fiber CAI.

https://i.imgur.com/CyBz6xcl.jpg

I stripped the front dress off the car, removed the DS header, grabbed the engine lift and in the engine bay she went.

https://i.imgur.com/oHFv1gWl.jpg

Before installing the front dress I came up with a fix for the PS COT fitting. I cut it to clear the tensioner bridge and welded a ring around the end of it with SS welding wire to prevent the hose blowing off.

https://i.imgur.com/Tkwk6ZCl.jpg

I knew the CAI was going to be a challenge so that's the first bridge I wanted to cross. I removed the windshield washer reservoir and to my surprise the GT500 filter housing fit perfect.

https://i.imgur.com/aTuhm4yl.jpg

I had already ordered a slot style to 04 Terminator wiring adapter from VMP performance.

https://i.imgur.com/p2DjeMhl.jpg

I was also proactive in prepping for the CAI install and sourced the correct gloss carbon fiber tubing to match the finish on the JLT silencer delete. I also ordered the correct size T-bolt fastners, silicone hump hose connectors, and the hump hose for the 5" Cobra Jet SBTB

The CAI kit came out pretty good after all the cutting and chopping was done.

https://i.imgur.com/7vg1HzPl.jpg

Now that's over with, back to the front dress and supercharger belt length. I started with a Gates 080510 and it was just too long. I dropped down to a Gates 080505 and got the sweet spot. I had a 10 rib 90mm idler I picked up from LFP performance and after measuring twice I needed a 76mm Thump idler for the tensioner.

https://i.imgur.com/PSn6VTAl.jpg

musclemerc

04-08-2018, 10:30 AM

Thump RRR tensioners are nice, they help a lot with tensioning but I had a trade off. There isn't enough room for the tensioner and the radiator de-gassing container. Luckily I already had a fender mount unit on the shelf. Originally my plan was to use the OEM fender mount container as in intercooler reservoir but after seeing the size of the top connector and the baffles inside the tank I ditched the idea. Here's the part number for the OEM tank.

https://i.imgur.com/JHx0QkJl.jpg

Just a heads up the bolts that come with the tank are too short to pass through the fender liner. I used furniture bolts and cut them down to size.

https://i.imgur.com/hfQVBAxl.jpg

Here's a pic of the clearance of a Thump RRR tensioner at Eaton Swap length.

https://i.imgur.com/410KPrdl.jpg

I wanted to do something different for all the 5/8" hose I needed for this build. I didn't want to look at a whole lot of rubber so I sprung on silicone hose. I used it for the intercooler inlet/outlet, the remote mounted IAC valve, the fresh air side of the DS cam cover, and the fresh air feed from the CAI

https://i.imgur.com/vSY5epil.jpg

This isn't the finished product, I ordered the correct aluminum hoses separators to give it a finished look.

As I went on my way placing the 5/8" silicone hose where it was needed I couldn't help but think how well James Hell designed his kit. He placed the IAC valve in the EGR location on the blower so its out of the way. Really smart!!

https://i.imgur.com/FYDYf26l.jpg

Now its time to route the new 3/4" intercooler hoses over to the DS of the car and install the reservoir. To route the hoses I followed the lower radiator hose and covered both hoses with convolute tubing to protect them from debris. when I transitioned into the lower DS fender area I covered the hoses in nylon weave to protect them from header heat. The reservoir dropped right in and filled the gap just as I envisioned it.

https://i.imgur.com/mF5CXjll.jpg

I had to notch the fender liner for the strap I also siliconed a 1/4" thick 4" round piece of ABS plastic to the base of the reservoir so it can ride right on top of the center bolt for the coil over and not puncture the tank under vibration.

https://i.imgur.com/RL02uEKl.jpg

By now I can see the light at the end of the tunnel. I prime the intercooler system and check for leaks. pretty proud of what she's starting to look like.

Notice I covered the billet 650HP plate on the blower with a blacked out Ford Racing logo. I left the plate on since it had a satin finish it all blends together nicely.

https://i.imgur.com/Ngo69esl.jpg

Next in line is fluids and a startup!!!

camelgrundle

04-08-2018, 11:31 AM

Very nice man!

Ambitious1

04-08-2018, 01:36 PM

Sweet! Can't wait to hear it starting up and running!

Big Mercur

04-08-2018, 03:40 PM

This is awesome man!!!

MMBLUE

04-09-2018, 05:14 AM

I'm speechless.

So glad to see you're back sharing your knowledge and your builds Travis.

Best post in years.:bows:

88grandmarq

04-09-2018, 07:49 AM

Transmission warranty is now VOID ... :)

burt ragio

04-09-2018, 07:54 AM

Travis I have always admired your skill level & perseverance you continually display. Your projects are envied. Every project you have undertaken & shared with the site has been methodicaly exicuted. Thanks for sharing your build. I want to hear a sound clip of the beast in motion.

tbone

04-09-2018, 12:20 PM

Transmission warranty is now VOID ... :)

AMEN to that!

Zack

04-09-2018, 12:49 PM

Are you sure your belt length was supposed to read as posted?
Pretty sure it should be 080505

musclemerc

04-09-2018, 04:09 PM

Very nice man!

Sweet! Can't wait to hear it starting up and running!

This is awesome man!!!

Thank you all.....

I'm speechless.

So glad to see you're back sharing your knowledge and your builds Travis.

Best post in years.:bows:

Thanks old friend.

Transmission warranty is now VOID ... :)

We may need to chat about a built 6R80 Eric.

Surely this setup will test the 4R70E you last built for me.

Travis I have always admired your skill level & perseverance you continually display. Your projects are envied. Every project you have undertaken & shared with the site has been methodicaly exicuted. Thanks for sharing your build. I want to hear a sound clip of the beast in motion.

I will post up the first start video.

Thanks for the kind words Burt

musclemerc

04-14-2018, 01:48 PM

I had a few loose ends to fix before starting her up. I got Marty to send me a startup tune and from there on Jeff will remote in and do his magic. Last week we were set for our first session when he noticed my O2 sensors were way out of range for the amount of time the car had been running. I hadn't mentioned it till then but I didn't finish welding up my lead pipes to connect the new LT's to the back half of the exhaust system. At the time I was running open headers.

I'm going to run her with no cats just so I can get it done quick. I weld up a set of lead pipes and much to my surprise she's not as loud as I imagined. Jeff and I will set another date for him to do the remote tune but it was nice to hear her run for the first time.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKzf1fQLxKI&feature=youtu.be

I didn't prime anything, just threw the key and Viola!!! She started right up.

No clicks, no taps, no issues.

All I have left is to fabricate a new throttle cable bracket and design the new PCV system then she's ready to hit the streets. :burn:

justbob

04-14-2018, 03:58 PM

[emoji1303]

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musclemerc

04-16-2018, 06:01 AM

On my first street run I quickly found she's a different beast from the old Trilogy. I couldn't keep her straight after I got into boost.

Looks like a ring and pinion swap will be in my immediate future. I also couldn't get the Mickey Thompson ET streets to hook.

The boost comes up so quick it's almost scary

http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/5ad49e9e1bb8c/20180415_160134.mp4

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MMBLUE

04-16-2018, 06:28 AM

musclemerc

04-19-2018, 03:29 PM

^^ Yeah David.... Real soon...

justgod

04-27-2018, 07:47 AM

Dyno guesses anyone? lol, 740rwhp? :D

justbob

04-27-2018, 08:42 AM

Low compression is the killer. My “guess” 560-580 on 93, and at 22#s (damn near maxing out the efficiency) and adding way more heat, 590-630 on 110.

My 93 tune is 603 and it is absolutely STUPID power on the street. I would think being a centri w/a manual is pretty comparable to a twin screw w/auto. The only 110 I’ve ran thru mine is the 5 gallons I used on the dyno a few years ago as it’s simply wasted power unless at the track. Hell, my 93 tune is wasted power.

550-580 and really good tires is the perfect number to hit. As an example of too much, we were drifting my car at 115mph in 3rd at only 4,500 RPM with decent tires and three average sized adults on the 110 tune..

If my prediction is even in the ball park, and you can keep your IATs in check, you will have the perfect power you seek. It will feel like every bit of 200+ horses added to the butt meter. There is a really BIG difference from bolt ons to 450hp. Going from 450 to 550ish isn’t even explainable in words how much MORE power is on tap because you “thought” you had a tire fryer fast car before. Now you DO! And your driving skills had better be up to par for tire frying down the interstate... Now you will need to peddle it at the beginning AND end of every gear. Or ride it out like me. [emoji1303]

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justbob

04-27-2018, 08:48 AM

Here’s an example of 41 to 73 mph at 558hp and no tire spin. Sorry for the short video [emoji16]

When are you getting it tuned BTW?

https://youtu.be/MLCKSFbgPEk

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justgod

04-27-2018, 08:48 AM

We'll see how conservative the tune is. You can get 640rwhp with an M122 and he's running a tvs so unless he runs out of injector... :D

Dyno today btw...:popcorn:

hotford

04-28-2018, 06:19 PM

We'll see how conservative the tune is. You can get 640rwhp with an M122 and he's running a tvs so unless he runs out of injector... :D

Dyno today btw...:popcorn:

Don't think GT500 with that blower(M122) see those kind of numbers and they are stick, I know his TVS is night and day vs the M122.

580 on pump 93 sounds about right, 640 on 110.

justgod

04-28-2018, 07:19 PM

Actually, it’s been proven already more than a few times with the M122. There’s a member here with a crown Vic that is putting down 640 with an M122. It doesn’t mean you won’t have to let it cool down after a run with the high IATs you’ll see even with a good heat exchanger, but, it’s a proven combo. Yes, the GT500 crowd already knows this. I know of one that’s pushing 670rwtq with the M122 :beer:

burt ragio

04-30-2018, 06:42 PM

Any idea whats the psi ?

musclemerc

04-30-2018, 06:49 PM

Any idea whats the psi ?

TVS making 19psi on 93oct

Stock diam. lower/2.93 upper

I also have a 2.76 upper.

Should make 22psi but its for 110oct only

dohc324ci

04-30-2018, 07:04 PM

Wow very impressive bud! Nice shop too!

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justgod

05-01-2018, 06:12 AM

TVS making 19psi on 93oct

Stock diam. lower/2.93 upper

I also have a 2.76 upper.

Should make 22psi but its for 110oct only

Oops, I may need meth injection with my 6lb lower/2.93 upper... :shake::D

musclemerc

05-01-2018, 07:29 AM

musclemerc

05-01-2018, 07:30 AM

Wow very impressive bud! Nice shop too!

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Thanks B Castro ;)

justgod

05-01-2018, 08:40 AM

Only problem with meth on a PD blower is nozzle placement.

It has to be post boost. I think Sherm attempted it with his whipple. I don't remember if it was successful.

I have seen the Teflon completely removed off the rotors pre
boost though.

That's a good point. Not much for corn in my area, may need to go with a killer chiller or even just a small shot of N2O. I'm open to suggestions lol

RubberCtyRauder

05-01-2018, 08:56 AM

That's a good point. Not much for corn in my area, may need to go with a killer chiller or even just a small shot of N2O. I'm open to suggestions lol

what is your set up? inhave a killer chiller on a ported trilogy and in 90 humid day are around
100

justgod

05-01-2018, 09:04 AM

Pretty damn close to what Travis has except 07 pony block, 301cid, ported heads, Crower blower cams, 6lb lower and the Trinity blower.

musclemerc

05-01-2018, 09:33 AM

That's a good point. Not much for corn in my area, may need to go with a killer chiller or even just a small shot of N2O. I'm open to suggestions lol

N20 will require even more fuel.

Your going to need to go with a stock lower to keep the TVS under 20psi for 93oct.

what is your set up? inhave a killer chiller on a ported trilogy and in 90 humid day are around
100

KC won't help with adding more octane.

justbob

05-01-2018, 02:47 PM

what is your set up? inhave a killer chiller on a ported trilogy and in 90 humid day are around

100

Mine would be 88-90* then. [emoji16] Highway of course. In town, 90-98..

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musclemerc

05-05-2018, 11:53 AM

Dyno guesses anyone? lol, 740rwhp? :D

Low compression is the killer. My “guess” 560-580 on 93, and at 22#s (damn near maxing out the efficiency) and adding way more heat, 590-630 on 110.

My 93 tune is 603 and it is absolutely STUPID power on the street. I would think being a centri w/a manual is pretty comparable to a twin screw w/auto. The only 110 I’ve ran thru mine is the 5 gallons I used on the dyno a few years ago as it’s simply wasted power unless at the track. Hell, my 93 tune is wasted power.

550-580 and really good tires is the perfect number to hit. As an example of too much, we were drifting my car at 115mph in 3rd at only 4,500 RPM with decent tires and three average sized adults on the 110 tune..

If my prediction is even in the ball park, and you can keep your IATs in check, you will have the perfect power you seek. It will feel like every bit of 200+ horses added to the butt meter. There is a really BIG difference from bolt ons to 450hp. Going from 450 to 550ish isn’t even explainable in words how much MORE power is on tap because you “thought” you had a tire fryer fast car before. Now you DO! And your driving skills had better be up to par for tire frying down the interstate... Now you will need to peddle it at the beginning AND end of every gear. Or ride it out like me. [emoji1303]

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We'll see how conservative the tune is. You can get 640rwhp with an M122 and he's running a tvs so unless he runs out of injector... :D

Dyno today btw...:popcorn:

Don't think GT500 with that blower(M122) see those kind of numbers and they are stick, I know his TVS is night and day vs the M122.

580 on pump 93 sounds about right, 640 on 110.

I went to the dyno last Friday and things didn't go as I anticipated.

The dyno shop is new and literally 1.5 miles away from my house so I figured I would leave the tuning part up to Jeff at Mo's Speed Shop and rent the dyno by the hour to do the runs. Both parties were professional, and great to work with.

We had 2 widebands and both read extremely rich at WOT. Just an FYI Autometer gauges cannot read any lower than 10:1a/f reading hence the reason we used 2 gauges. The Innovate hand held my dyno operator used showed a steady 9:1a/f reading. Jeff revised the tune multiple times.......No change......

We complete about 8 pulls back to back and couldn't get her to see the target 11.5:1 a/f ratio @WOT. Jeff is saying somethings wrong, the dyno operator is scratching his head (keep in mind he cant see any changes Jeff is making on the fuel tables). We all agree to take a break and regroup.

The dyno operators partner Ryan shows up and we throw him into the mix. Jeff calls me back and asks me "am I 100% sure the injectors are 60lbs and not 80lbs because we cant get the car to lean out"

Ryan asks me what did we get for a/f @WOT? I reply 9:1.... Ryan laughs and says "if ya'll were @9:1a/f you couldn't stand in the building. Jeff agrees and says "it would be breaking up real bad too and its not"

Ryan disconnects the exhaust at the collector and tells me to load the first tune Jeff sent me. We run the dyno and get 9:1a/f..... We shut the dyno down and load the last tune Jeff sent me and the car hits 10.2:1a/f.

THE EXHAUST IS NOT ADEQUATE.....

Currently I'm running a pair of SW LT's, a 2.5" MAC prochamber, and the rest 100% stock.

Looks like I can't move forward till I get a bigger exhaust. All the local muffler shops do crush bends and I just cant see doing it without mandrel bends.

BIG shout out to Marty and his crew!!! They are second to none. Mo even called SW for me to see if they could make the original MAU-EX with the 3" mid section. They deleted the CAD prints after Zack's thread on how bad the system fit. The SW replacement is not even comparable to what they previously offered

Oh BTW the car made 501HP/510TQ at 9:1a/f

Ryan thinks we have another 100HP/100TQ to gain after I open the exhaust so we can lean her out.

:burnout: Looks like I'm going to break out the welder and make myself a new 3" exhaust with an H pipe. It will likely be an on the cheap version of what MOTOWN did on his 3" exhaust system
https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=98512

stay tuned......

FordNut

05-05-2018, 02:18 PM

It really doesn't make sense to me that you would need 3" exhaust. You're only making 500 hp, that should be easy on a full stock exhaust. I make 750 and have 2.5" exhaust.

musclemerc

05-05-2018, 02:22 PM

500 HP pig rich...

This setup should easily yield 620 and up with a 2.93 upper at 19psi.

700 on race fuel.

Maybe my Prochamber or stock mufflers have collapsed.

justbob

05-05-2018, 02:46 PM

It really doesn't make sense to me that you would need 3" exhaust. You're only making 500 hp, that should be easy on a full stock exhaust. I make 750 and have 2.5" exhaust.

I agree. Mine was only limited to the damn clutch that wouldn’t hold past 5,700 RPM and the Procharger was no where near its efficiency yet and put down 704 on 2 1/2” S.W.

She was purring and begging for another 150-200 more and all systems were ready to support it.

Something definitely isn’t flowing well on yours. But I see absolutely no reason why 2 1/2” wouldn’t provide more than enough with room to grow.

Sounds like your fuel is up to par!

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MMBLUE

05-05-2018, 03:59 PM

CATS and not the purring kind.

Switch'em out or get rid of them. I know you remember my set up. heck your the one who did it. I know you hate the smell but HF CATS might be your answer if you can't take the CATLESS stink.

musclemerc

05-05-2018, 05:54 PM

I agree. Mine was only limited to the damn clutch that wouldn’t hold past 5,700 RPM and the Procharger was no where near its efficiency yet and put down 704 on 2 1/2” S.W.

She was purring and begging for another 150-200 more and all systems were ready to support it.

Something definitely isn’t flowing well on yours. But I see absolutely no reason why 2 1/2” wouldn’t provide more than enough with room to grow.

Sounds like your fuel is up to par!

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Yep fuel is not an issue here. When I put this build on paper I didnt plan for any fuel upgrades and it appears I was correct. Goes to show build it right the first time and you'll never touch it again.

SGT_MERC

05-05-2018, 06:13 PM

What are you using for your fuel set up?

musclemerc

05-05-2018, 07:01 PM

What are you using for your fuel set up?

I built it some years ago. I decided to stay returnless

Dual GT Supercar pumps
Dual in tank 10awg wiring
Dual FPDM's **not modified**
Dual (stock) fuel lines
Dual filters
-10 Y block @ the rails
Wiring upgrade w/3 power on relays
BAP set @ -0- (wired w/4lbs hobbs switch)

Enough fuel for 700plus HP

justgod

05-06-2018, 08:43 AM

I have to wonder if the table for that slot MAF is right in the tune. Travis, what’s the part number on the MAF?

musclemerc

05-06-2018, 08:47 AM

I don't know but I can run it past Jeff.

It's a stock GT500 MAF from a 2010

I dropped my mid pipe last night the inside is coated with raw fuel.

justgod

05-06-2018, 11:38 AM

What size intake tube do you have? I used SCT PRP to load a base marauder tune, load the GT500 slot MAF, load the GT500 127mm tube on top (it's in the SCT PRP) then take everything that's changed and save to a file I can load into the actual Marauder tune I build.

musclemerc

05-06-2018, 11:46 AM

My intake tube is 127mm

I'm also running a mechanical Cobra Jet SBTB from VMP

justgod

05-06-2018, 02:26 PM

I bet it’s the MAF transfer function table. Or an injector stuck open. I’ll bet my ether soaked rag on it.

musclemerc

05-06-2018, 02:28 PM

We need to talk. I'll PM you my number justgod

Injector stuck open has my attention

SGT_MERC

05-06-2018, 05:28 PM

Wouldn't a stuck open injector also wash out that cylinder? It would also bleed fuel into that cylinder until the pressure in your fuel system goes down. I had a stuck open injector and it washed that cylinder out, thus dropping the compression in that cylinder. it even ran past my rings and I had fuel in my oil.

musclemerc

05-06-2018, 06:07 PM

I never lost rail pressure SGT

We kept a mechanical gauge on the Schrader valve and had a consistent 55psi throughout the pulls.

I'll pull the dip stick and give it the smell test. Good point!

TooManyFords

05-06-2018, 07:21 PM

Did you have an AFR gauge on both headers, one for the PCM and one you can look at? Did they both say the same thing? If so, you think you have 60lb injectors but you probably have 80's or something else...

musclemerc

05-07-2018, 08:23 AM

Did you have an AFR gauge on both headers, one for the PCM and one you can look at?

Nah, we had my pod mounted A/F in the DS bung and the dyno shops hand held mounted in the Prochamber (it read both banks).

Did they both say the same thing?

My Autometer gauge can't read anything under 10:1. The hand held (Innovate) read 9:1 (it can read as low as 7:1).

If so, you think you have 60lb injectors but you probably have 80's or something else...

That's what Jeff was thinking. When I get home I'll Google the part number and see what pops up.

Since I got you I have to say your new setup is impressive. I thought the blower was over the top, but you outdid yourself this time.

TooManyFords

05-07-2018, 06:10 PM

Since I got you I have to say your new setup is impressive. I thought the blower was over the top, but you outdid yourself this time.I am humbled. Thank you.

SGT_MERC

05-08-2018, 12:55 PM

What year GT500 mass air meter are you using?

musclemerc

05-08-2018, 01:07 PM

From a 2010 GT500

VMP sells a plug and play wiring harness.

justgod

05-08-2018, 01:36 PM

It's only 2011+ that went from 0-5v analog to variable frequency digital. It wouldn't even run if one of those were in there.

musclemerc

05-08-2018, 01:39 PM

Yep... I did my homework on getting the right year

SGT_MERC

05-08-2018, 06:19 PM

Yeah...Because 2011 they go from analog to digital mass air meters. What diameter is the GT500 mass air housing?

musclemerc

05-08-2018, 06:44 PM

127mm

The MAF housing is built into the filter. Its a BIG assembly.

The wiper reservoir has to be relocated.

Afterwards if fits like a glove!!

hotford

05-19-2018, 02:33 PM

^^^^^^Travis you get things all sorted out??^^^^^

Lowndex

05-19-2018, 05:40 PM

Awesome project. Respect the skill you have to do the work yourself.

justgod

05-19-2018, 10:07 PM

I’m chasing Travis lol

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180520/f594aad3e74b5bf18a91426bdba2ad 1c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180520/58817f71c2b9a01a4a4073f35dd273 45.jpg

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Seneca

05-20-2018, 04:16 AM

:)
I’m chasing Travis lol

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180520/f594aad3e74b5bf18a91426bdba2ad 1c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180520/58817f71c2b9a01a4a4073f35dd273 45.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk hmmm interesting, another m122 build, back to Travis post, excited to see more progress sir! It's happening quick!

musclemerc

05-20-2018, 06:10 AM

^^^^^^Travis you get things all sorted out??^^^^^

I quickly ran out of options on the exhaust. SW new design is nothing like previous offerings. Everything is designed to work around using their lead pipes. BIG no go for me because I don't want to reduce down to 2.5".

So I bought a SS DIY 3" mandrel bent pipe kit from Flow Master. It comes with 16 pieces and has provisions for a H pipe. I ordered some 27" super turbo primary mufflers from Dynomax and chose a set of Dynomax 9" long race mufflers to go right off the collector. I also ordered V bands so I can break the system down when needed. Gonna be a slow process. Gotta dig out my TIG and make sure she's ready when I need her.

Edit: Here's the link to the exhaust I fabricated
https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=106292

On another note. I verified I didn't have a suck open injector. I also verified I didn't have a set of 80lb injectors installed instead of 60lb. My static pressure is 55lbs coupled with 60lb Deka injectors puts me at a 74lb on the low slope. 71lbs on the high slope

Here's a good website I found with testing data on FRPP injectors
http://efidynotuning.com/injdata.htm

I will post up some pics when I get moving on the exhaust build :burn:

musclemerc

05-20-2018, 06:13 AM

:) hmmm interesting, another m122 build, back to Travis post, excited to see more progress sir! It's happening quick!

Did you make your brackets Seneca?

Looking good brother!

Better test fit the injector rails. I notice the bolt downs are at stock height

musclemerc

05-20-2018, 06:17 AM

justgod

05-20-2018, 06:27 AM

Still working on it. The ordinal deal went through. I figured I’d at least start mock-up and find the gotchas. I’m dying to see the results of yours perfected:D

Seneca

05-20-2018, 09:36 AM

Did you make your brackets Seneca?

Looking good brother!

Better test fit the injector rails. I notice the bolt downs are at stock height yes sir, this is a cheapo build, if there is such a thing. Ya, I still have not machined the bosses down good eye! Can't wait to see your exhaust setup

MMBLUE

05-20-2018, 03:41 PM

I quickly ran out of options on the exhaust. SW new design is nothing like previous offerings. Everything is designed to work around using their lead pipes. BIG no go for me because I don't want to reduce down to 2.5".

So I bought a SS DIY 3" mandrel bent pipe kit from Flow Master. It comes with 16 pieces and has provisions for a H pipe. I ordered some 27" super turbo primary mufflers from Dynomax and chose a set of Dynomax 9" long race mufflers to go right off the collector. I also ordered V bands so I can break the system down when needed. Gonna be a slow process. Gotta dig out my TIG and make sure she's ready when I need her.

On another note. I verified I didn't have a suck open injector. I also verified I didn't have a set of 80lb injectors installed instead of 60lb. My static pressure is 55lbs coupled with 60lb Deka injectors puts me at a 74lb on the low slope. 71lbs on the high slope

Here's a good website I found with testing data on FRPP injectors
http://efidynotuning.com/injdata.htm

I will post up some pics when I get moving on the exhaust build :burn:

Were the CATS any good after you ruled out injectors?

Also, what CATS are you going with for the new 3" system?

musclemerc

05-20-2018, 03:58 PM

No cats David.

GoldPanther

06-26-2018, 08:27 PM

Incredible build man. I'm speechless. Needless to say anything it's just incredible.

musclemerc

06-27-2018, 06:26 AM

^^^^ Thanks for reading my thread Daniel.

mtenderenda

07-06-2018, 12:45 PM

Hey MuscleMerc,
Where did you get the stainless steel coolant tubes?
I would like to get the same setup.
I have the Trilogy supercharger.

justgod

07-06-2018, 12:52 PM

Hey MuscleMerc,
Where did you get the stainless steel coolant tubes?
I would like to get the same setup.
I have the Trilogy supercharger.

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=93960

They're very nicely made. :beer:

musclemerc

07-06-2018, 01:36 PM

Hey MuscleMerc,
Where did you get the stainless steel coolant tubes?
I would like to get the same setup.
I have the Trilogy supercharger.

I got them from the God of Marauder parts Jerry :bows:

I highly recommend his stuff. (not sure if that came out right)

musclemerc

10-13-2018, 10:29 PM

It's been a while since I updated this thread, busy isn't the word to describe what I've been the last few months.

My car has been sitting since I fabricated the 3" SS exhaust because shortly afterwards I discovered my TVS needed a rebuild. I reached out to the regular sources Jon Bond, Steggy, and Jokers. Pricing was OK but keep in mind I'm a cheap bastard and it kills me to pay for mechanical services when I can do them myself so I hit the interweb and started researching possible causes of the noise my TVS produced. The best way I can explain the noise is the sound a coffee pot makes at the end of the brew cycle. Sure enough others have had the exact issue. The cause? The needle bearings at the back of the rotor pack.

I hit ebay and found a reputable vendor for a complete rebuild kit, pulled the TVS and drank a lot of beer not believing I was tearing apart a new build. I put the TVS on the bench and let the work begin. After removing the snout and rotorpack I installed my blind hole puller and after 3 or 4 slides of the hammer I realized I'm doing it wrong. My knuckles made contact on the rotor housing after ever pull. If I had kept going my knuckles were going to be torn up pretty good so I hit my local ACE hardware and picked up the correct dia. threaded rod, cut it to length and used a lowering shackle I had in my bucket of scrap steel.
https://i.imgur.com/ThHKOUwl.jpg

The lowering shackle was the perfect fit for the job.
https://i.imgur.com/NQiGVHPl.jpg

I grabbed my pneumatic air gun and in just a few seconds the first needle bearing was out.
https://i.imgur.com/cKYHL71l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oDxcfFRl.jpg

I cleaned the needle bearing housing and drove the new bearings in with a socket and extension
https://i.imgur.com/mLNmfuIl.jpg

I didn't rebuild the snout because all is well, but if I ever have to I have all the parts on hand. I got the TVS assembled and put her back in the car and went for a ride.

The noise is gone!
Finally I can finish remote tuning with Marty and Jeff.

Final dyno numbers coming soon :beer:
https://i.imgur.com/fz0qKB2l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/uWPS6Cil.jpg