Drivers Side Window

[Marauderman]

The subject is correct but the car is in reference to a 2006 Crown Vic--Although a P71, I wouldn't think much different--anyway-- it will not go down /up--nothing--stuck in the up position thank goodness--

A check of the local steelership estimates about $600 to fix--yeah--unbelievable--so naturally am in need of the alternate and its not me--

So how is one to determine what is wrong to buy the part even for another to do the labor--or not possible without taking door assembly apart? If that is the case I must find someone who is familiar or done it before and not at those prices--right?

[Gerry24]

There’s couple in that might be wrong with it. It can be small as sticky switch to motor and regulator being bad. Both motor and regulator combo would run about $120ish. The labor is not that intense but still need to be careful with the glass when removing it and installing it back on right.

[Marauderman]

Thanks---yeah that's the whole concern--I think I know a good friend who may be able --its time we have a visit anyway---wonder if he is reading this--Hello??


is there any spray to try--say
WD-40 maybe? would that cause an electrical issue

[justbob]

My passenger window was in the same predicament as yours and it was just the contacts in the drivers side switch dirty again. Is yours trying to do something or nothing at all?

If they were able to give you a quote then what was the quote for?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Agent2006]

X2 what Gerry said.

1.check for a blown fuse, easiest thing to start with.

2.Driver's side switch is a known problem area on CV's Rock auto is cheap/easy to swap in.$33.

3.If you check those two things and it still does not work, then a non-dealer shop should be able to fix that way cheaper than $600. FYI: motor is about $25, and the regulator is about $25. Window relay is more about $70. The hard part is finding a big rivet gun and drilling out the rivets when replacing the regulator. Took me about an hour to R/R mine.

(probably the fuse, switch or the motor.)

[Marauderman]

My passenger window was in the same predicament as yours and it was just the contacts in the drivers side switch dirty again. Is yours trying to do something or nothing at all?

If they were able to give you a quote then what was the quote for?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No --window seems frozen --no movement when you piush the button--$est was 600 from dealer--really--get serious---



X2 what Gerry said.

1.check for a blown fuse, easiest thing to start with.

2.Driver's side switch is a known problem area on CV's Rock auto is cheap/easy to swap in.$33.

3.If you check those two things and it still does not work, then a non-dealer shop should be able to fix that way cheaper than $600. FYI: motor is about $25, and the regulator is about $25. Window relay is more about $70. The hard part is finding a big rivet gun and drilling out the rivets when replacing the regulator. Took me about an hour to R/R mine.

(probably the fuse, switch or the motor.)

Thanks--will check for fuse tomorrow--and see from there--

[Keith]

Marauderman,

I can encourage you on this. I ended up replacing both rear regulators on my 04 DTR. It was not my favorite job, and you will cut and scratch your hands, but it is not awful.
I used Dorman regulators (with motors) from Rock Auto and they shipped very quickly. Price for rears was something like $50 or $60 apiece, and I just did both while I was into it. Dorman claims that they have a better cable and guide design that helps against breakage. That hooked me, but who knows if they are really better. Price was competitive.
The big rivets are aluminum and they drilled out very nicely, no problem at all. YouTube has a zillion videos on how to do this job - any CV or Grand Marquis video with a good explanatory guy will do - and I followed one, it was very helpful. I replaced the rivets with little fasteners with Nylok nuts and all was well.
I have to think that the fronts would be very similar, so if "worst case" happens you will be fine. I work real slow and methodical - I'm a freaking engineer - but it still only took me 4 - 5 hours to do both.

Keith in Houston
04 DTR

[Grimrepairman]

Do you have a multimeter or test light? If so, check for power into and out of the window switch. It's easy to probe the connections when flipped over. Pop the front out first.
My driver's window got stuck down. Cleaned the contacts and all is well.

[fastblackmerc]

I'm actually doing a replacement regulator assembly this weekend for another member.

[fastblackmerc]

When you try to operate the window switch do you hear the motor running?

Did you try both switches - master switch and individual switch?

Test:

With the engine not running and the key in the RUN position, door open so you can see the dome light, work the switch and see if the dome light dims - if it does your getting power to the motor and the window is stuck - if not then you either have a non-working switch or a bad motor.

Fix:

If the window is stuck, bang on the inside door panel (just lower than the center of the panel) while operating the switch. You may free up the stuck motor.

If the window is not stuck or you hear the motor running then you most likely need a new regulator assembly.

If you think its a switch, try another switch from another door.

[Marauderman]

When you try to operate the window switch do you hear the motor running?

Did you try both switches - master switch and individual switch?

Test:

With the engine not running and the key in the RUN position, door open so you can see the dome light, work the switch and see if the dome light dims - if it does your getting power to the motor and the window is stuck - if not then you either have a non-working switch or a bad motor.

Fix:

If the window is stuck, bang on the inside door panel (just lower than the center of the panel) while operating the switch. You may free up the stuck motor.

If the window is not stuck or you hear the motor running then you most likely need a new regulator assembly.

If you think its a switch, try another switch from another door.

Will do check test tomorrow as I finally got the MM to say "ready" on the code scanner so I can get it inspected--took 168 miles to do it and a final quick run to 110 as I was getting pissed--that seem to do the trick--will remember to do that sooner---duh!

Thanks for the self check--will advise.

[Marauderman]

Marauderman,

I can encourage you on this. I ended up replacing both rear regulators on my 04 DTR. It was not my favorite job, and you will cut and scratch your hands, but it is not awful.
I used Dorman regulators (with motors) from Rock Auto and they shipped very quickly. Price for rears was something like $50 or $60 apiece, and I just did both while I was into it. Dorman claims that they have a better cable and guide design that helps against breakage. That hooked me, but who knows if they are really better. Price was competitive.
The big rivets are aluminum and they drilled out very nicely, no problem at all. YouTube has a zillion videos on how to do this job - any CV or Grand Marquis video with a good explanatory guy will do - and I followed one, it was very helpful. I replaced the rivets with little fasteners with Nylok nuts and all was well.
I have to think that the fronts would be very similar, so if "worst case" happens you will be fine. I work real slow and methodical - I'm a freaking engineer - but it still only took me 4 - 5 hours to do both.

Keith in Houston
04 DTR[/QUOTE

Thanks for the encouragement but that's just not in my ability to achieve at the moment--would rather spend that amount of time visiting my friend who is spot on in their repair--but he is a good drive from me--thats ok

[QUOTE=Grimrepairman;1560161]Do you have a multimeter or test light? If so, check for power into and out of the window switch. It's easy to probe the connections when flipped over. Pop the front out first.
My driver's window got stuck down. Cleaned the contacts and all is well.

Thanks as well but don't have those tools and like said above my ability is just not good once I take something apart like that


I'm actually doing a replacement regulator assembly this weekend for another member.

May need to schedule a visit for same kinda work....plus a reunion


Will do check test tomorrow as I finally got the MM to say "ready" on the code scanner so I can get it inspected--took 168 miles to do it and a final quick run to 110 as I was getting pissed--that seem to do the trick--will remember to do that sooner---duh!

Thanks for the self check--will advise.

OK-- one problem --its a P71 and they don't have dome light s on when opening door --BUT-- press of the button with key in on with door open hears a "click" inside door but no action--

Look for a PM

[Gerry24]

[QUOTE=Keith;1560156]Marauderman,

I can encourage you on this. I ended up replacing both rear regulators on my 04 DTR. It was not my favorite job, and you will cut and scratch your hands, but it is not awful.
I used Dorman regulators (with motors) from Rock Auto and they shipped very quickly. Price for rears was something like $50 or $60 apiece, and I just did both while I was into it. Dorman claims that they have a better cable and guide design that helps against breakage. That hooked me, but who knows if they are really better. Price was competitive.
The big rivets are aluminum and they drilled out very nicely, no problem at all. YouTube has a zillion videos on how to do this job - any CV or Grand Marquis video with a good explanatory guy will do - and I followed one, it was very helpful. I replaced the rivets with little fasteners with Nylok nuts and all was well.
I have to think that the fronts would be very similar, so if "worst case" happens you will be fine. I work real slow and methodical - I'm a freaking engineer - but it still only took me 4 - 5 hours to do both.

Keith in Houston
04 DTR[/QUOTE

Thanks for the encouragement but that's just not in my ability to achieve at the moment--would rather spend that amount of time visiting my friend who is spot on in their repair--but he is a good drive from me--thats ok



Thanks as well but don't have those tools and like said above my ability is just not good once I take something apart like that



May need to schedule a visit for same kinda work....plus a reunion



OK-- one problem --its a P71 and they don't have dome light s on when opening door --BUT-- press of the button with key in on with door open hears a "click" inside door but no action--

Look for a PM


NICE :beer:

[fastblackmerc]

Thanks for the encouragement but that's just not in my ability to achieve at the moment--would rather spend that amount of time visiting my friend who is spot on in their repair--but he is a good drive from me--thats ok



Thanks as well but don't have those tools and like said above my ability is just not good once I take something apart like that



May need to schedule a visit for same kinda work....plus a reunion



OK-- one problem --its a P71 and they don't have dome light s on when opening door --BUT-- press of the button with key in on with door open hears a "click" inside door but no action--

Look for a PM

Sounds like the motor is bound up or stuck. Try hitting the inside door panel about in the middle while working the button - key in the RUN position.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Purchased mine on Amazon.
Had it replaced across the street from the Junk yard.
$50 including the 6 rivets.
He was done in 20 minutes.
6 weeks later, regulator broke again.
Dorman has lifetime warranty, so ordered another one and returned it to Amazon. Paid the $50 labor again.
I've had to replace all 4 door regulators due to breaking. Driver's twice.

[Brian H]

Fastblack has it!! try the old beat the panel at the switch or.... slam the door good and hard!!! worked for me 12 yrs. ago and haven't had a problem since. Granted I only have about 200 mi's since then but it worked!!