Rear mount turbo build

[minimarine09]

So this thread is a "continuation " of my procharger build thread here I figured someone would never find it if they Googled read mount for our cars so I made a new post :

https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url=https%3A%2F%2Fww w%2Emercurymarauder%2Enet%2Ffo rums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D 104123&share_tid=104123&share_fid=1340&share_type=t

That thread is the basic build process up to the point where I was tired of procharger problems and wanted to graduate to turbo problems.

Anyways, the plan is to remove the fuel tank and mount the turbo where the fuel tank was. Fuel cell in the back. I have eccentric routed in my head and I'm ****ing stoked to get it done. It's just a slow process.

started my battery relocate. Have to make a couple more grounds and I should be a set there

Reason I went with the relocate is because I wanted my vented catch can setup to bolt down like the batteryhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/fed8350b1f02347f0cd9e04b31618d 2d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/ad012671895949884aa0290d26c48d b4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/ad5fb8ec2dfe693bef6e42cc244af7 91.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/3a6d7035a88470a5041ec5ee623b80 6f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/7b8997aa14491f36785f0ee1f5d554 4d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/89f9ff48e14e7a0d011b13ee76c186 fc.jpg

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[minimarine09]

I started to figure out what I'm doing with my fuel setup. I'm making the move to a return fuel system, but for now I'll use what I have to get everything going.

I decided to use the filler cap as my fuel hat also, so I drilled some holes for the feed and y into a single 8an. I'm going to have someone weld angle stock piece to the filler cap to mount the pumps on.
along with a mini baffle around the pumps.

I have allot of parts in, pretty much all of my stainless needed, got some factory manifolds that I'm going to clean up and ceramic coat. Big ol 4" down pipe stainless. V bands etc etc.

Also got a massive trans cooler and an hoses for that as wellhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/6466e317ff3c845180c2a38fe9f15e 47.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/a515d90bce9f3b40dce1633767b286 4e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/a83422b3df1bca73648ecbee3bfeb0 d9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/5a758455aefee51f94b2f7aed4b4ec 78.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/08d64f8387cd6ef6a4ec115c6cb397 c8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180718/6ba6df96ca71b75d581e8a9400cff6 da.jpg

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[Grimrepairman]

Very nice!
Looking forward to progress updates.
I remember there being a rear mount turbo kit for 4th gen Camaro and firebird. Don't think it became very popular.

[minimarine09]

Very nice!
Looking forward to progress updates.
I remember there being a rear mount turbo kit for 4th gen Camaro and firebird. Don't think it became very popular.thanks! Yea, I think because people were going about it wrong, from my knowledge of months of rear mount research, the key is to keep the heat in as much as possible/ keep velocity up I'm going to wrap the crap out of my pre turbo piping going down to a single 2.5" pipe, factory manifolds, paired with more gear should bring the lag down quite a bit.

Not to mention I called comp and matched my setup to this turbo, so I'm excited to see how it comes out

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[blazen71]

This is great. It's nice to see folks still interested in Modding this platform!

[camelgrundle]

Awesome man, looking forward to see the progress!

[justbob]

Curious what she’ll make and how quick she’ll serve it!


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[RF Overlord]

I understand how turbos work, but I'm certainly not an expert. Wouldn't a 4" downpipe lose some exhaust velocity and increase turbo lag?

[minimarine09]

I understand how turbos work, but I'm certainly not an expert. Wouldn't a 4" downpipe lose some exhaust velocity and increase turbo lag?Turbos like pressure before the turbo to help spool. (but not to much). You want as little back pressure AFTER the turbo as possible, which will decrease lag. If I could run no downpipe I would lol

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[Grimrepairman]

What's the plan for the inlet side?
I believe that the f body setup had the air filter under the car and water was a concern/ issue.

[minimarine09]

What's the plan for the inlet side?
I believe that the f body setup had the air filter under the car and water was a concern/ issue.Going to bring it into the trunk lol. Probably have a big ol filter next to the fuel cell. At first I was wanting to mount the turbo in the trunk, but I didn't like the hotside routing

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[minimarine09]

Thanks everyone
Curious what she’ll make and how quick she’ll serve it!


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYou and me both! My eventual goal is 800-1000whp. (also what the turbo guy sized me up for) But for now Ill be happy with north of 600. With the stall / gear combo should combat lag decently

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[MOTOWN]

What stall and gears are you looking at? and what size Turbo is that?

[minimarine09]

What stall and gears are you looking at? and what size Turbo is that?~3800 -4000 stall, I currently have some 3.73.but I want to swap them out for some 3.55s. I have a 3.27 set in my garage but that may be over kill with a 28" tall tire. Its staying a street car so we will see. Turbo is a 7475 CT43 billet. With a .96ar t4.

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[MOTOWN]

~3800 -4000 stall, I currently have some 3.73.but I want to swap them out for some 3.55s. I have a 3.27 set in my garage but that may be over kill with a 28" tall tire. Its staying a street car so we will see. Turbo is a 7475 CT43 billet. With a .96ar t4.

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I would look at a stall in the range of 3500-3800 , for gears you want a tall gear (numerically low) ideally a 3.08 or so (3.55) is too much gear for a Turbo Marauder.

I can tell you you will be very unhappy with a Turbo that big on a 4.6L mod motor you need to look a 66mm Turbo with a .72ar housing , I would give Precision Turbo a call and go over your build with tech support they are very helpful and will tell you what will work and what will be a nightmare believe me ive dealt with them since the early 90s.

[minimarine09]

I would look at a stall in the range of 3500-3800 , for gears you want a tall gear (numerically low) ideally a 3.08 or so (3.55) is too much gear for a Turbo Marauder.

I can tell you you will be very unhappy with a Turbo that big on a 4.6L mod motor you need to look a 66mm Turbo with a .72ar housing , I would give Precision Turbo a call and go over your build with tech support they are very helpful and will tell you what will work and what will be a nightmare believe me ive dealt with them since the early 90s.Yea, Ive already accepted the fact that this car is going to be a dog when not at wide open throttle. Im ok with that. You saying that about the gears makes me feel better about throwing those 3.27 gears back there.

IMHO 66mm is just too small for my eventual power goal on pump gas as a rear mount. I spoke with comp turbo about my exact setup and this is the one they came up with and built for ~1000hp capable, street car but not revving higher than 7k. I didn't plot the compressor map myself but I took their word for it lol. Sole reason I went with comp is the turbo is oil-less. So I don't have to worry about oil Scavenging problems

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[2004_p71]

Really curious bout this , keep on the good work

[Fastbob]

Oil-less turbo is an interesting idea. Hope it works out for you, but I am skeptical. $179.00 for a tube of turbo grease to be applied every 3,000 miles. http://comp-turbo.mybigcommerce.com/oil-less-grease-2/

[minimarine09]

Oil-less turbo is an interesting idea. Hope it works out for you, but I am skeptical. $179.00 for a tube of turbo grease to be applied every 3,000 miles. http://comp-turbo.mybigcommerce.com/oil-less-grease-2/Yea that was almost a no go when I saw that. At least it's not a daily anymore lol.

They used to sell the oil less turbos for any use, but then they started seeing failures with the extreme heat when mounted in the engine bay. So now they only recommend for remote mount, and seem to have some pretty good success. I'm still nervous about it though. Only time will tell

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[minimarine09]

So I fixed all my grounding issues with the battery relocate, got a new battery and she cranks up nice and strong. Please ignore how janky everything looks, Im going to clean everything up and secure everything. This was just to get the car running. This is how the trunk sits now, where the filter is, is roughly where the turbo inlet will be

I ended up selling the meth kit and decided on getting a nice intercooler to fill behind the grill area. Kind of how I have this one mounted, but a custom horizontal one with inlet / exit going pointing down

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180719/560489297f7aaa5e07336c9b295f5b 6e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180719/d8b25f21b06a594720de817eeb2bd9 02.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180719/31b8087e9ef4c7ec67b4ea0584ba1c c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180719/ab0ad3aac2f338193f4bf75d80a08a 6f.jpg

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[sailsmen]

I would keep an eye on coolant temps. If you can use it the OEM fan shroud is very effective.

[minimarine09]

I would keep an eye on coolant temps. If you can use it the OEM fan shroud is very effective.For sure! Thanks. yup, factory fan

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[justbob]

How are you planing to duct air into the sealed trunk??


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[blazen71]

Direct Trunk Injection
.
I'm sure he's got a good plan. Seems pretty thorough.

[Turbov6Bryan]

Turbos like pressure before the turbo to help spool. (but not to much). You want as little back pressure AFTER the turbo as possible, which will decrease lag. If I could run no downpipe I would lol

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Fake news
We picked up 30 rwhp on a 2.3 turbo mustang by putting a smaller sleeve in a ATR 3 inch downpipe. Same dyno same day.
4 inch is overkill for your car
66mm turbo would make plenty of power for the street on these cars :)

Nice project you have. When will it be finished?

[minimarine09]

Fake news
We picked up 30 rwhp on a 2.3 turbo mustang by putting a smaller sleeve in a ATR 3 inch downpipe. Same dyno same day.
4 inch is overkill for your car
66mm turbo would make plenty of power for the street on these cars :)

Nice project you have. When will it be finished?Lol? What do you mean put a smaller sleeve in a down pipe? I've never in my life heard of a turbo making more power with more restriction in the down pipe.


66mm will make plenty, sure, but not nearly enough for my future goal.

In my opinion, no such thing as over kill on a build that you care about.

As far as when it will be done, that is a question I ask myself every day lol. I just need to find the time. I already have allot of parts to install. But now that I don't have access to the shop anymore, I have to make things happen at home after work and school. But I'm making it happen

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[Turbov6Bryan]

We put a smaller sleeve in the neck at the turbo, then the car made more power

Your turbo is too big. It is also way to big to make peak boost all the way back at the rear of the car. Good luck making 20 psi

[Grimrepairman]

Anyone else thinking anti lag system?
It's cool on rally cars.

[minimarine09]

We put a smaller sleeve in the neck at the turbo, then the car made more power

Your turbo is too big. It is also way to big to make peak boost all the way back at the rear of the car. Good luck making 20 psiAt the neck of the turbo? So you stepped UP to a 3" downpipe at the turbo. That would make sense. Because you are making MORE ROOM for the exhaust gasses to escape. I. E. Bigger downpipe equals more power. If you made more power by restricting the down pipe flow like diagram 1, Then you need to call a scientist immediately and report this defiance of basic fluid dynamics.

As far as judging the spool charictaristics of a turbo, the compressor size has little to do with spool. The turbine size /turbine housing /hotside pre turbo, and downpipe mostly determine the spool of a turbo to a given setup. My turbine size is significantly smaller than a normal 7xmm turbo. If anything my turbine housing may be a little big but we will cross that bridge when we come to it.

I don't know the exact sciences of sizing the wheels to the setup, but comp turbo does. Which is why I called them, and told them my EXACT setup. And they didn't pull a turbo off the shelf, they made the turbo to match the specs of my setup. So If you want to argue turbo sizing, go ahead and call comp and tell them their math is wrong.

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180721/54578e88025c789b0e0b339f1b1794 05.jpg

[minimarine09]

Anyone else thinking anti lag system?
It's cool on rally cars.Lol, that would be nasty but no. I wouldnt dare to put this turbo under that type of abuse. Maybe a cheap holset, or something that's easy to rebuild

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[minimarine09]

How are you planing to duct air into the sealed trunk??


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI've been trying to find this thread I was reading but haven't found it yet, this guy had his turbo inlet in his trunk like I am planning, he did a pull on the dyno, came back and drilled holes into his trunk around the filter, did another pull and there was no difference in performance.

I guess there are enough holes /gaps in a cars trunk to offset the vacuum being pulled by the turbo inlet. But if I run into issues, that's another bridge to cross lol. Hopefully I don't implode my trunk lid lol. I doubt it'll stick THAT much air though lol. We will see

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[Marauderjack]

I've been trying to find this thread I was reading but haven't found it yet, this guy had his turbo inlet in his trunk like I am planning, he did a pull on the dyno, came back and drilled holes into his trunk around the filter, did another pull and there was no difference in performance.

I guess there are enough holes /gaps in a cars trunk to offset the vacuum being pulled by the turbo inlet. But if I run into issues, that's another bridge to cross lol. Hopefully I don't implode my trunk lid lol. I doubt it'll stick THAT much air though lol. We will see

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You'll probably suck the back seat out of the car!!:eek:

[Turbov6Bryan]

It's a cool build.
The only thing that sucks is , it fails because there isn't enough heat to make real power.
That turbo is very large to be mounted up front, it's going to be worse mounted in the rear..
I really hope it works out ok for you, but it's going to be doggy af

Treadstone makes really good intercoolers if your interested, I've used them on a few builds.

Have fun! :)

[minimarine09]

It's a cool build.
The only thing that sucks is , it fails because there isn't enough heat to make real power.
That turbo is very large to be mounted up front, it's going to be worse mounted in the rear..
I really hope it works out ok for you, but it's going to be doggy af

Treadstone makes really good intercoolers if your interested, I've used them on a few builds.

Have fun! :)That's where - ceramic coated factory manifolds/ going to a single 2.5" stainless pipe(possibly coated) / wrapping the ever loving dog **** out of it comes to play. Not to mention tall tires, low rear gear, and high stall converter should load up the turbo pretty good. I already know it's going to be a dog out of boost.

Thanks for the concern though

Also the intercooler in that picture is a treadstone, they make good stuff, they just don't make one that is how I would like it. The guy who made my catch can made my intercooler, just waiting on him to ship it out

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[Grimrepairman]

Roof scoop ducted into the trunk?
For dyno pulls or when at the track could pull one taillight housing.

[sailsmen]

Hopefully I don't implode my trunk lid lol.
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I think your'e more likely to explode it.:D

[justbob]

I've been trying to find this thread I was reading but haven't found it yet, this guy had his turbo inlet in his trunk like I am planning, he did a pull on the dyno, came back and drilled holes into his trunk around the filter, did another pull and there was no difference in performance.

I guess there are enough holes /gaps in a cars trunk to offset the vacuum being pulled by the turbo inlet. But if I run into issues, that's another bridge to cross lol. Hopefully I don't implode my trunk lid lol. I doubt it'll stick THAT much air though lol. We will see

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I just don’t understand how this could work but I’ve seen plenty of stuff that wasn’t supposed to work...

Seeing as though every vehicle that I can think of besides inboard cabin cruisers (and even they normally have small intake vents) have the air box routed to the front to grab air. Your adding a dookie ton of CFM and cutting the airflow’s balls off?

But hey, personally I live to be told that something is impossible! It’s what motivates me.. Best of luck! I love seeing new things.


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[Joe Walsh]

Here are lots of threads with lots of opinions....but not many, if any, actual installations.

(Post #2 has lots of links to old threads)

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=38455&highlight=Squires

[minimarine09]

I just don’t understand how this could work but I’ve seen plenty of stuff that wasn’t supposed to work...

Seeing as though every vehicle that I can think of besides inboard cabin cruisers (and even they normally have small intake vents) have the air box routed to the front to grab air. Your adding a dookie ton of CFM and cutting the airflow’s balls off?

But hey, personally I live to be told that something is impossible! It’s what motivates me.. Best of luck! I love seeing new things.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI agree, I was sceptical at first but after talking to some big rear mount guys, I feel allot better about it.

Grim - that's not a bad idea!

second option is build a box around the filter outside under the car, but for now I'm going to stick with it in the trunk and go from there.

If my trunk blows up then I'm making a marauder pick up truck lol,



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[minimarine09]

Here are lots of threads with lots of opinions....but not many, if any, actual installations.

(Post #2 has lots of links to old threads)

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=38455&highlight=SquiresYea, a lot of skepticism in those posts.

Like Bob said, I live to prove them wrong!

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[blazen71]

Sounds like you've really reaserched all the details. Good luck! I hope you do prove this setup to work!

[crownvic97]

I have no idea how it’s going to work, but I hope it does!

[loud2004marquis]

I have no idea how it’s going to work, but I hope it does!


^^^+1 on that!^^^

https://giant.gfycat.com/FabulousCheerfulGalapagosmocki ngbird.gif

[minimarine09]

I hope it does too. Thanks!

So I'm still building up the fuel system, went to go drain my tank and COMPLETELY forgot I lost my quick disconnect tool. So I MacGyver'd up a tool using a plastic cap that came on the fuel cell, worked like a charm! Lolhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180723/38c9909c55ee5654ba9389a02505d7 56.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180723/7984d3ab91003d17ea19c37dad1ba2 50.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180723/451802d425619fe44937b54bdc09a2 95.jpg

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[musclemerc]

Please tell me you plan on putting the trunk carpet back in place.

[minimarine09]

Please tell me you plan on putting the trunk carpet back in place.Lol Yes, I'm going to clean everything up, nice and Purdy, it's just pretty low on my priority list

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[minimarine09]

So I am having my friend help me out with making my fuel hanger because I'm a little girl and don't know how to weld.

I went to take off out my fuel pumps, and just decided to just drop the tank. In the hot Florida sun. Tight squeeze but I got it.

So ill be selling my returnless fuel setup, (KB BAP, modified fpdm, and the revised ford gt pumps)

It took some thinking, but I was able to make the factory sending unit work with the sending unit hat that came with the fuel cell. Then I bent the rod so it will read true full and empty with the fuel cell dimensions. Cut and put the floaty back on. Works like a charm. I also plan on using the factory fill up spot for the fuel cell, I think it's just high enough to not cause problems, just have to drill a holehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180725/054fcb4ab6225456b6231df2628082 2d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180725/c4849de80ab6fe3fa5da497aa4f18a 8a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180725/b69b9d099a04270f493c4f5aeba9a6 b7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180725/275efda6fffec93c69f8f25eb2e7c5 03.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180725/0efe89de540aae378c2c8e39ac5564 8a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180725/13d86c7a3fa3c6af418ad7d339016e ec.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180725/6f874a18b3b9b1b68ccb054c9152dc 89.jpg

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[minimarine09]

And this beast of an intercooler just came in. I'm not 1000% happy with it, as he made it a little wider than I asked at the top, so I'll just have to trim a good bit to make it work. At this point, carving up the front bumper cover isnt a big deal to me. It's going to look sexyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180726/3769b10fc38829d541f90bc65ff5b9 32.jpg

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[minimarine09]

So I've been making some moves, been doing a good job on not spending any extra money. sold the fuel setup, decided to pull the trigger on return, everything else that I should need for fuel is in the mail. also sold my long tubes, and bought my cold side piping/ v bands. Also got my manifold flanges resurfaced. And just dropped the off to be sand blasted and ceramic coated. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180731/b775edaeb7ed7f77a02399e3eeda46 ea.jpg

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[minimarine09]

Got the manifolds back from coating, I also bought a cheap welder and wired my garage for 240v. Going to start practicing so I can do a couple misc things around the car, like solutions for mounting the turbo for example, unfortunately my intercooler was made a little too wide, too wide for the bumper brackets. So I'm going to have to make some new brackets, or notch my existing ones. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180811/3dd66598ad773f5de68546b4096225 64.jpg

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[Grimrepairman]

So I am having my friend help me out with making my fuel hanger because I'm a little girl and don't know how to weld.

I still laugh and or smile every time I read this.
Welding isn't super difficult. Practice enough and you'll get the hang of it.
Can we assume that you got a MIG welder?
If so, flux core or solid wire with gas?
Few quick tips: uncoil the leads completely. Don't take just what you need and leave the rest hanging on the machine.
When using a MIG(or GMAW) welder keep the liner as straight as possible. Helps keep the wire from binding.
Don't be afraid to take the tip and wire out and blow the liner out. They fill up with dust and rust surprisingly fast.
Make sure you have the correct size tips for the wire size being used. Don't be afraid to change the tip either, they can go bad fast too.
Weld toward the ground clamp. Helps keep the arc stable and if stick welding, keeps the flux behind the arc where it belongs.
Clean welds are happy welds. Yes, you can weld through paint and rust. But it's usually not pretty. The grinder is for before welding, not after.

Have fun!
And don't be a dumbass and weld in a t shirt with no gloves like me. :D

[Fastbob]

I still laugh and or smile every time I read this.
Welding isn't super difficult. Practice enough and you'll get the hang of it.
Can we assume that you got a MIG welder?
If so, flux core or solid wire with gas?
Few quick tips: uncoil the leads completely. Don't take just what you need and leave the rest hanging on the machine.
When using a MIG(or GMAW) welder keep the liner as straight as possible. Helps keep the wire from binding.
Don't be afraid to take the tip and wire out and blow the liner out. They fill up with dust and rust surprisingly fast.
Make sure you have the correct size tips for the wire size being used. Don't be afraid to change the tip either, they can go bad fast too.
Weld toward the ground clamp. Helps keep the arc stable and if stick welding, keeps the flux behind the arc where it belongs.
Clean welds are happy welds. Yes, you can weld through paint and rust. But it's usually not pretty. The grinder is for before welding, not after.

Have fun!
And don't be a dumbass and weld in a t shirt with no gloves like me. :DYou forgot one....Don't strike an arc until you verify that the batteries in your auto darkening welding helmet is good and it is switched on. Trying to weld with a bad battery(s) in your helmet or the switch in the off position makes it difficult to see much of anything for at least 15 minutes. Don't ask me how I know that.

[Turbov6Bryan]

Once you have welded poorly a few times and the wire will no longer feed, DO NOT POINT THE TIP TOWARDS YOUR FACE AND LOOK AT IT WHILE PULLING THE TRIGGER!!!

It's a simple honest mistake that definitely will poke you in the eye and grant you a trip to the ER

Once the welder speed and you getting used to it, all is good.

Keep a pair of dikes next to you, this way with each new fresh arc will be a new fresh piece of wire.

Shut the gas off once your ready to put the welder away, nothing worse the next time you go to use it and all that gas leaks out!

[Grimrepairman]

You forgot one....Don't strike an arc until you verify that the batteries in your auto darkening welding helmet is good and it is switched on. Trying to weld with a bad battery(s) in your helmet or the switch in the off position makes it difficult to see much of anything for at least 15 minutes. Don't ask me how I know that.

Probably the exact same way that I know that. Checking becomes a habit after a few times.

[minimarine09]

Back from the dead!

So I took a little hiatus from the world / car, recently I started back up again, slowly but surely, what I have gotten done since last update -

Welded motor mounts solid
Mounted both exhaust manifolds
Mounted plumbed/wired fuel pumps
Mounted battery box and fuel cell
Built/ran fuel return and feed hoses
ReRouted battery relocation wires through frame
Relocated fuse box (may change my mind)

Mounted beast of a transmission cooler behind grill and ran hoses


Cleaned up some janky wiring that was left for me

Started to relocate the air compressor to make room for

(still planning on cleaning everything up and proper mounting, carpet in trunk, etc...)



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[minimarine09]

Some pics, of the above mentioned progress and more to come!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/48b3b74543e284609ef65e933cc998 ed.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/30bb0c53f779239c0a5449969393f2 98.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/34d01da510e0c2652599d0979df62c 09.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/b5e8846a9019c113cc42c28c4278ff c7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/b8b2909935bdc67d2c946b44b8b79c e5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/cb2f33ea7f735cee16550c2f7915b9 24.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/4f6f0b442b99eb442c1bfa5e53f437 11.jpg

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[Zack]

Nice. But FYI, you can run all power cables through the interior. There is a factory channel along the passenger side with plenty of room for battery cables.

[minimarine09]

Nice. But FYI, you can run all power cables through the interior. There is a factory channel along the passenger side with plenty of room for battery cables.Thanks! yea that would of been a smarter idea, oh well maybe next time.



So now I'm basically waiting on this guy to be available to fabricate my hotside for me, anxious to hear me some turbo noises!

In other news, MY BALLS WORK !

My son coming around April 13th

When your unborn is metal as ****https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190101/55de944f7364ae2107b641eaed52e9 2e.jpg

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[camelgrundle]

Lol congrats man!

[musclemerc]

Better hurry up and get done! After he gets here game over till he goes to school.....
Crumb snatchers are expensive!!!

[justbob]

Better hurry up and get done! After he gets here game over till he goes to school.....
Crumb snatchers are expensive!!!



And three of them will break your bank! I call my oldest PackMan because all he does is walk around the kitchen with his mouth going up and down every half hour or so...


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[minimarine09]

Thanks everyone!

Yea the wife actually bribed me, that if she gets to name him, then I get to spend the money for the turbo mounting /hotside fabrication lol. She knows my weakness. So now his name is Jacob which works for me

I'm just excited to force the love for cars upon him so all he will want is car parts for holidays just like his dad. and I'm tired of not having a tool / beer fetcher

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[minimarine09]

So instead of paying someone to weld up the turbo kit, I decided to invest the money in a tig welder and teach myself, 1st time tig welding--why not aluminum pipe right?! Don't judge, they are stuck together.

Also got a factory located coolant reservoir. Got a portable Dewalt band saw for a steal. Which should cut through the stainless no problem.

This is pretty much where I'm at with it, piping wise, it's going to be interesting squeezing under the evaporator box but I'm getting it done. Waiting on more fab parts to come so I can mount the bov and Maf on the piping, Im also going to start the stainless fabbing shortlyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190323/62c35470354c580139358feb22a282 67.jpg

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[justbob]

Portable band saws are an everyday tool for me. If more people were to try using them they would be a common garage item!

I have two 20V Dewalts scattered between the garage and tool shed and a third job provided 18V Milwaukee fuel in the van.


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[minimarine09]

Portable band saws are an everyday tool for me. If more people were to try using them they would be a common garage item!

I have two 20V Dewalts scattered between the garage and tool shed and a third job provided 18V Milwaukee fuel in the van.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProI'm excited to see this thing in action, I'm looking into the swag offroad table that they make for the portabands to help make a nice square cut.

Was it you that had some type of brace on your charge piping to your throttle body? To keep it from blowing off. If it was, do you have any pictures of it?

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[crownvic97]

I wouldn’t knock anyone who is trying to do it all themselves, looks good to me, keep it up!

[musclemerc]

So instead of paying someone to weld up the turbo kit, I decided to invest the money in a tig welder and teach myself, 1st time tig welding--why not aluminum pipe right?! Don't judge, they are stuck together.

Also got a factory located coolant reservoir. Got a portable Dewalt band saw for a steal. Which should cut through the stainless no problem.

This is pretty much where I'm at with it, piping wise, it's going to be interesting squeezing under the evaporator box but I'm getting it done. Waiting on more fab parts to come so I can mount the bov and Maf on the piping, Im also going to start the stainless fabbing shortlyhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190323/62c35470354c580139358feb22a282 67.jpg

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As long as you have good penetration on the welds your good. You get a TIG with a pedal or scratch to start?

SS is WAY easier to TIG over aluminum. You could have always went with a spool and MIG aluminum just the same

You need to put a check valve on one of those PCV hoses so you don't send boost into the cranckcase.

[minimarine09]

As long as you have good penetration on the welds your good. You get a TIG with a pedal or scratch to start?



SS is WAY easier to TIG than aluminum. You could have always went with a spool and MIG aluminum just the sameI got the lotos tig200, it's a square wave inverter machine with high freq start. I'm still getting used to the pedal it comes with. the pipes were done using the trigger on the torch. It's allot to grasp at once, especially starting with aluminum.

I'm a little nervous to overheat the stainless while welding because what I'm reading is if you cook it to much it may lose its stainless properties. Maybe I'm just over thinking it

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[justbob]

I'm excited to see this thing in action, I'm looking into the swag offroad table that they make for the portabands to help make a nice square cut.

Was it you that had some type of brace on your charge piping to your throttle body? To keep it from blowing off. If it was, do you have any pictures of it?

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Yep that’s mine. I’ll see if I have a pic somewhere as it’s been stuck in the air for a couple of months with all the winter crap and motorcycles under it.




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[Seneca]

I got the lotos tig200, it's a square wave inverter machine with high freq start. I'm still getting used to the pedal it comes with. the pipes were done using the trigger on the torch. It's allot to grasp at once, especially starting with aluminum.

I'm a little nervous to overheat the stainless while welding because what I'm reading is if you cook it to much it may lose its stainless properties. Maybe I'm just over thinking it

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I highly recommend back purging your stainless hot side, itll assure no cracks down the road

[justbob]

As long as you have good penetration on the welds your good. You get a TIG with a pedal or scratch to start?

SS is WAY easier to TIG over aluminum. You could have always went with a spool and MIG aluminum just the same

You need to put a check valve on one of those PCV hoses so you don't send boost into the cranckcase.



I still have a hard time even with my spool set up, proper gas, and dedicated wire brush. (Very important not to use on other metals)

I still haven’t gotten around to picking up a TIG but I think I just want the simple Miller Diversion 180. I took it for a test drive at my supplier and laid a pretty damn good stack of dimes (with nickels... LOL) on aluminum with my first ever pass with a TIG. I have an extensive history in oxy acetylene and he said then you’ll be good, same basic hand movements, just add a pedal. I loved it.

I have over two grand already wrapped up in my Hobart 210 with spool, cart, three different tanks for mild, SS, and Aluminum, plus all the accessories. It’s easy to over invest in this stuff..


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