Help with instrument cluster

[CrownVic75]

I just had a Marauder instrument cluster installed in my 04 Crown Vic Sport. I didn't have a place to do it myself so I paid (out the nose) to have it done. Anyway, the people that did it messed it up royally. But I digress, I am trying to access how badly they messed it up. I know the fuel gauge doesn't work but I also believe that some of the "fault" indicator lights don't work.

What I need is for a genuine Marauder owner to turn on the ignition switch and tell me which "fault" indicator lights turn on, before starting the engine. It seems there are 13 indicator lights across the cluster. I thought that when you first turn the key on they all light up to show that they are working.

I've read the Marauder manual and it didn't help much.

Anyway, any help would be appreciated.

[fastblackmerc]

I just had a Marauder instrument cluster installed in my 04 Crown Vic Sport. I didn't have a place to do it myself so I paid (out the nose) to have it done. Anyway, the people that did it messed it up royally. But I digress, I am trying to access how badly they messed it up. I know the fuel gauge doesn't work but I also believe that some of the "fault" indicator lights don't work.

What I need is for a genuine Marauder owner to turn on the ignition switch and tell me which "fault" indicator lights turn on, before starting the engine. It seems there are 13 indicator lights across the cluster. I thought that when you first turn the key on they all light up to show that they are working.

I've read the Marauder manual and it didn't help much.

Anyway, any help would be appreciated.
I think they all come on to verify the bulb isn't blown. Will check when I get home.

[camelgrundle]

Check engine, seatbelt, battery all stay on...... air susp, check fuel cap, abs, brake and airbag all come on and turn off after a couple seconds varying... (They do not turn off at the same time)

[CrownVic75]

I think the same...Thanks

[CrownVic75]

Ok, guys... mystery solved.

I also just discovered that the indicator light on the far right end of the cluster named "Engine Coolant Temperature", according to the Ford Wiring Diagrams manual, is really the "cylinder head over temperature indicator, lamp".

THANKS!

[03Merc]

Ok, guys... mystery solved.

I also just discovered that the indicator light on the far right end of the cluster named "Engine Coolant Temperature", according to the Ford Wiring Diagrams manual, is really the "cylinder head over temperature indicator, lamp".

THANKS!



You need an extra pin or so when converting to the marauder cluster for power IIRC and the auto meter tach adapter. The install wasn't so hard, just a PITA switching all the pins around.


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[CrownVic75]

You need an extra pin or so when converting to the marauder cluster for power IIRC and the auto meter tach adapter. The install wasn't so hard, just a PITA switching all the pins around.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Hahahaha!

Let me tell you a little story. My daughter and her family moved in with me a couple of years ago, so my garage is now full of boxes, toys and other junk. I can’t get my car into my garage. So I took my car to a “custom” repair/garage. They assured me they had done this before and knew what they were doing.

The cluster swap should have taken 4 to 6 hours. The mechanic said it took him 11 hours to do the job. He said he cut the wires off the existing (white – black) connectors, then spliced the existing wires to the new connector’s pigtails. I had purchased both new connectors so I had the two extra pins I would need or to arrange the wiring into the new connectors. So he really mucked things up. I told him to replace the oil pressure sender and use the existing wire from the cluster and extend it down to the center console pod. He said he had to run a new oil pressure wire. He said it also took him 3 hours to get the Autometer tach sending unit to work. The sending unit along with the instructions were still in the Autometer box, I had supplied.


Well, so far everything seems to work except the Fuel Gauge. (I had already replaced all the lights with 194LL bulbs and tested.) So now, whether I like it or not, I have to pull the cluster out myself and get the fuel gauge working.



I’m 74, I live in South Carolina and it’s so hot and humid here I can’t work on the car outside. We are currently having thunderstorms almost every evening. I’ve come to the conclusion that I will do the repairs during the night. I can’t imagine what a rat’s nest of wiring I’m going to find behind the cluster. They charged me almost $1000 for this hack job. And they made me pay cash...now I know why.


P.S. I'm considering suing.

[RF Overlord]

Holy macaroni...

Sounds almost as bad as the recall "fix" for the LCM. :rolleyes:

[justbob]

A $1,000 to swap to a Marauder cluster? Plus the actual part? I will never understand some CV and GM owners! WOW


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[RF Overlord]

Hey! I own a GM...just ordered some cop shocks for it, too.

[CrownVic75]

justbob,


Ya, I didn't think it was going to be that expensive. Of course, if they had done exactly as I asked it would have been half that cost. The mechanic was an idiot, but if I wanted my car back I had to pay it. What really irritates me is that now I have to yank the dash and finish the work they started. Which is what I was trying to avoid in the first place.

[CrownVic75]

I fixed the LCM problems by adding relays to control the headlights and fog lights circuits. With the added relays I don't have all the amperes for the headlights going through the LCM over an 18 gauge wire. The 18 gauge wire now picks a relay and 12v is supplied to the headlights using 12 gauge wire directly from the power junction box/battery. Lights are brighter and if the relay burns up it's easily replaced.


One more thing, we Crown Vic owners aren't trying to remake them into Marauders. It's just that the Marauder had some options that didn't come on the Crown Vic (like the Tach, and actual working oil and volt meters). To improve the car's appearance as well as handling, performance, etc., we use the good parts off of other vehicles. My Johnny Cash car has parts from Marauder, CV PI, Lincoln Aviator, and Mustang, plus custom tunes. Most car enthusiast will customize their car with things that they like and were not factory installed. The Crown Vics came with on/off switches as sensors for gauges like the oil pressure. The manufacturer made the so called gauges act the same as idiot lights. Once you find out that when the oil pressure drops below 6 lbs/in2 and the "gauge" drops to zero, your engine is already shot. You can appreciate having an actual oil pressure gauge. At least these are the motives behind my actions.

[Invective]

Ya, I didn't think it was going to be that expensive. Of course, if they had done exactly as I asked it would have been half that cost. The mechanic was an idiot, but if I wanted my car back I had to pay it.


Hoping you let others know who to avoid. I'm still hunting for knowledgeable/willing Marauder techs in my area.

Locally, Schrader Performance in Gastonia, NC now farms out most work to Hart's Automotive, also in Gastonia - inquiries went unanswered.

Extreme Mustangs in Monroe, NC was recommended - inquiries went unanswered.

[CrownVic75]

Hoping you let others know who to avoid. I'm still hunting for knowledgeable/willing Marauder techs in my area.

Locally, Schrader Performance in Gastonia, NC now farms out most work to Hart's Automotive, also in Gastonia - inquiries went unanswered.

Extreme Mustangs in Monroe, NC was recommended - inquiries went unanswered.




"Above and Beyond" I wrote reviews on various local websites.




The best car modders I found in Charlotte was "CMD Automotive". But be careful, if you have them do some work for you, these guys are radical and extreme. They did my drive train and a few other mods and then created my 93 octane "custom tune". They forgot to tell me they and created and loaded the tune. When I figured it out and filled up with 93 octane fuel to try the tune, let's just say I had to buy new underwear. But they are the best I found in the Charlotte area.




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[Invective]

Thanks for the tip - I'll contact CMD ASAP. The Yelp! reviews for the Summerville facility are hilarious! I don't bother posting anything to Yelp! anymore as I've been shadow banned for some unknown reason. My negative reviews were always truthful and objective. Kept getting messages that my 'negative reviews' (few and far between) 'weren't serving the best interests of the community'? Then, I see some of the other stuff posted to Yelp?


https://www.yelp.com/biz/above-and-beyond-automotive-summerville-3?adjust_creative=dWJMtmYxpd5N 5yoyzSuhtA&utm_campaign=yelp_api&utm_medium=api_v2_business&utm_source=dWJMtmYxpd5N5yoyzSu htA&hrid=Sl7lZVYEVLhXDbp_h65elg







"Above and Beyond" I wrote reviews on various local websites.




The best car modders I found in Charlotte was "CMD Automotive". But be careful, if you have them do some work for you, these guys are radical and extreme. They did my drive train and a few other mods and then created my 93 octane "custom tune". They forgot to tell me they and created and loaded the tune. When I figured it out and filled up with 93 octane fuel to try the tune, let's just say I had to buy new underwear. But they are the best I found in the Charlotte area.




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[RF Overlord]

It's just that the Marauder had some options that didn't come on the Crown Vic (like the Tach, and actual working oil and volt meters). The Crown Vics came with on/off switches as sensors for gauges like the oil pressure. The manufacturer made the so called gauges act the same as idiot lights. FYI, the oil pressure gauge in the Marauder is a fake, too. Ford had AutoMeter custom make the fake gauges to LOOK like the real thing, but act just like all of Ford's other OP gauges. Many of us took that **** out and replaced it with a real working gauge at our own expense.

[CrownVic75]

Thanks for the tip - I'll contact CMD ASAP. The Yelp! reviews for the Summerville facility are hilarious! I don't bother posting anything to Yelp! anymore as I've been shadow banned for some unknown reason. My negative reviews were always truthful and objective. Kept getting messages that my 'negative reviews' (few and far between) 'weren't serving the best interests of the community'? Then, I see some of the other stuff posted to Yelp?


https://www.yelp.com/biz/above-and-beyond-automotive-summerville-3?adjust_creative=dWJMtmYxpd5N 5yoyzSuhtA&utm_campaign=yelp_api&utm_medium=api_v2_business&utm_source=dWJMtmYxpd5N5yoyzSu htA&hrid=Sl7lZVYEVLhXDbp_h65elg




That'[s funny...I am Consult_T. That's my post on yelp.


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[CrownVic75]

Well, this evening, before the thunderstorms started, it was cool enough that I disassembled the dash so I could fix the Fuel gauge. So far I have 38 pictures of my progress and the destruction.

Here are a few of my findings, so far.

1. The "faux wood" trim practicality fell off. Three of the four push-in snaps were broken clean off.
2. Only five of the eight mounting screws that hold the dash face-plate were there. (3 missing screws.) One screw was just hanging 2/3 out, not tightened down.
3. ALL of the screw holes in the dash face-plate were cracked from being tightened down to tight. I'll bet they used a power socket driver.
4. And finally, pin 2 of the Black connector (C2220a) has a Bk/WH wire going to it. Hmmmm? The BK/WH wire in the schematics is labeled "Voltage supplied in Run (Overload Protect)" So let's see, I have 12V on the YE/WH wire on pin 1 and I have 12V on the BK/WH wire on pin 2. That means the fuel gauge has 12 volts on both sides of it. No wonder it's not working.
Pin 2 is supposed to be a PK/OG wire to supply ground to the fuel gauge. All grounds on the cluster are PK/OG.
5. I almost forgot... all the color coded wires were sliced to solid black wires using butt connectors and wire crimps.

Ya know, it occurs to me that someone had to really be trying, to screw things up this bad. Tomorrow I will do some more exploring before I try to repair anything. And I'll keep taking pictures, I'll need them for the Judge.


I'm so glad I hired a professional to do this. :mad:



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[CrownVic75]

FYI, the oil pressure gauge in the Marauder is a fake, too. Ford had AutoMeter custom make the fake gauges to LOOK like the real thing, but act just like all of Ford's other OP gauges. Many of us took that **** out and replaced it with a real working gauge at our own expense.

I used real Autometer "Whiteface" gauges also. (I may replace them with "Phantom II" gauges so they nearly match the Marauder backlit gauge numbers.) Just thinking...

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[Invective]

That'[s funny...I am Consult_T. That's my post on yelp.


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I'm reminded of living in NE FL during the late '80s and early to mid '90s. Huge influx of people from NE US moving in and take any available job, qualified or not. So bad it was often funny, but not always. Auto repair/service held a big attraction for those folks.

My (ex) wife was hit at an intersection by a 'trucker'(?) pulling an auto carrier trailer - he apparently forgot he had a trailer behind him when he made the turn. Wife and daughters weren't injured but our nearly new pickup truck was seriously damaged. Turned out the guy had just moved to the area from NY with his pregnant girlfriend.

His uncle was a local used car wholesaler who had his own truck and, by coincidence, needed a driver at that very moment. 'Nephew' had never driven a semi truck before, much less hold a commercial license (chauffeur's license back then - before CDL). Similar stories were common across the spectrum, especially in Auto Service/Repair.

Now, I primarily patronize a Vietnamese guy who came here in 1972, worked for a local Ford dealer for decades before opening his own shop. He's starting to slip a bit unfortunately. We've had a nearly 20 year run together, mostly impeccable up until the last year or so. :depress:

[CrownVic75]

Sounds like he's just getting tired and needs to retire.


Been there, done that. :-)
I was a Computer/Network Security Guru for the last 18 years, finally got tired of it and retired. Wasn't fun anymore.
("Guru" was what others called me, not my idea.)


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[CrownVic75]

Well, I got the fuel gauge working properly today. The person that did the rewire had a BK/WH wire going to pin 2 of C2220a(BK). For a marauder, that's correct, it's the MM's ground wires. However for a Crown Vic the BK/WH wires are +12V and PK/OG are grounds. I cut the wire and connected the gauge wire to a PK/OG wire (pin 8). After I remounted the cluster I took it for a spin and everything seems to work.

I'm sure glad I bought the authentic Ford "Wiring Diagrams" and "Workshop Manual" right after I purchased the car.

Now I have to get a lot of JB Weld and try and repair all the broken snaps and screw hole tabs on the dashboard fascia, and the the faux wood trim piece.
This so-called mechanic even left pieces of wires that he cut off in the pocket where the cluster fits. He didn't even clean up the mess he made.

And I'm still "spreading the word" about the garage I let create this mess.


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[Invective]

And I'm still "spreading the word" about the garage I let create this mess.


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At least you're proactive and got right to work fixing up the sorry mess. Now, avoid these guys in the future!


https://i.pinimg.com/736x/be/1d/14/be1d14ba07e6c0b6b11dfdd0cbc59f bd.jpg

[CrownVic75]

Consult_T is me, that yelp post is one that I posted.

[CrownVic75]

Invective,

I had to visit two auto parts stores today and got into discussions with some other guys and they wanted to know who to avoid. I told them.


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[CrownVic75]

At least you're proactive and got right to work fixing up the sorry mess. Now, avoid these guys in the future!


I believe I met this mechanic, recently. :mad2:




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[CrownVic75]

I finally had time, between rain storms, to fully check out the cluster wiring. Everything in the cluster seems to be working now. Except maybe the following.
I’m having a lot of problems with either the alternator or the battery. I had to replace the battery post connector because the original OEM post clamp had completely corroded away. I believe that fixed the battery connection problem.

My first problem is that when I use a multimeter and measure the voltage at the battery post it reads 12.3 volts. But when I turn on the key, the voltmeter, inside the car, reads 8.8 volts. Outside stays the same. And the starter has a very hard time cranking. But once it catches, if it does, and the engine starts, the inside voltmeter reads 13+ volts. (A couple of days ago, it never got above 12.5.)

I’ve done all the standard measurements concerning the battery and all the wires on the alternator. All readings seem to be as they should. When the engine is running the voltage at the alternator says 14.1 volts. I’ve performed these measurements with a multimeter and with my battery charger.
(I have a Black & Decker Model BC15BD – it has, a “Battery Voltage Reading”, an “Alternator Check”, an “Engine Start”, and a “Battery Recondition” buttons, as well as a Battery Charge” button.) And I’ve used it to also check what I did with the multimeter.

Ok, now after all that...my question is “where should I connect the inside voltmeter? I’m thinking of running a new wire from the CJB”

Page 62-1 in the manual shows pin 10 of C2220b, which comes straight from the CJB under the hood. Right now I don’t know where the idiot that wired the cluster got the +12v feed from. I had planned on investigating that this weekend. Page 62-5 of the manual shows it is wired straight to the CJB through a shared wire with the floor shifter and oil pressure gauge.


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[RF Overlord]

Marauder cluster swap into a Crown Vic: the gift that keeps on giving.

*Incompetent technician not included.

[BAD MERC]

Dayum!!!! throw in a few more grand you could buy an actual Marauder. :burn:

[BAD MERC]

Marauder cluster swap into a Crown Vic: the gift that keeps on giving.

*Incompetent technician not included.


I am doing the same mod into my 2006 Taurus. And my Troy Bilt lawn tractor. Maybe my chainsaw...

[CrownVic75]

I examined the all the wiring of the instrument cluster and repaired what needed to be fixed. I'm content that it all is correct now. I believe I have one more opportunity to fix something else the "custom" car shop screwed up. I've noticed that the "Volts" meter in the console pod reads 8 to 10 volts with the key "on", even though a multimeter across the battery reads 12.5 volts. Sometime this week I'll need to trace down where the idiot connected the meter's +12v feed to.

I had to buy a new battery today. If I charged the old one to 12.5 volts and tried to start the car once, the battery would then read 8.8 volts. Unless of course it caught, then the alternator voltage would read 13.1 volts and it would recharge the battery.

Now, after several different test, I found out the 4g alternator's voltage regulator is bad. I've ordered and will replace the voltage regulator when it arrives. Hopefully by the end of the week.

So let's see how good my luck has been:
1. I get the car back with a totally hacked up instrument cluster install.
2. The next morning, while I'm driving to the store, the steering pressure switch blows out. (Replaced unit.)
During the next week.
3. A four year old (Sears Diehard) battery goes bad. (Replaced.)
4. The alternator goes bad. (Working on it.)

RF Overlord was right...this has been "the gift that keeps on giving".

I'm just wondering how much of this was caused by mis-wiring the instrument panel.


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[RF Overlord]

I'm just wondering how much of this was caused by mis-wiring the instrument panel.Looking at my factory wiring manual, it doesn't appear there's any connection between the instrument cluster and the alternator. The PCM controls the rate of charge and the BATT light is just a switch inside the PCM.

[CrownVic75]

Looking at my factory wiring manual, it doesn't appear there's any connection between the instrument cluster and the alternator. The PCM controls the rate of charge and the BATT light is just a switch inside the PCM.

You are correct. I understand the alternator - PCM connection. I see that on page 12-1 in my 2004 Wiring Diagrams.

But, the Fuel gauge didn't work because the idiots wired C2220a pins 2 and 3 to +12v. So I don't know what else they screwed up. I do know that the Voltmeter inside the car reads less (8-11volts) than a multimeter reads at the BJB (12.56v). I will trace the voltmeter's wiring when I get a chance. They might have connected that to the brakes.

I just realized that Ford keeps naming the "Alternator" a "Generator" in my wiring diagrams.

But thanks for reminding me of page 12-1.


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[CrownVic75]

Thanks for the tip - I'll contact CMD ASAP. The Yelp! reviews for the Summerville facility are hilarious! I don't bother posting anything to Yelp! anymore as I've been shadow banned for some unknown reason. My negative reviews were always truthful and objective. Kept getting messages that my 'negative reviews' (few and far between) 'weren't serving the best interests of the community'? Then, I see some of the other stuff posted to Yelp?


https://www.yelp.com/biz/above-and-beyond-automotive-summerville-3?adjust_creative=dWJMtmYxpd5N 5yoyzSuhtA&utm_campaign=yelp_api&utm_medium=api_v2_business&utm_source=dWJMtmYxpd5N5yoyzSu htA&hrid=Sl7lZVYEVLhXDbp_h65elg


Yesterday I got 5 phone calls from the owner of "Above & Beyond". He had read the review I had placed on Yelp.com and he apologized and told me he wanted to "make things right". He asked if he could come by and see the mess that I had complained about. He said that the guy that worked on my car had been fired (not because of me but because of other messes he had created).

Anyway, he came by my house at 5:30 yesterday, saw the mess I had complained about and asked if he could have the car back so he could fix the mess. And of course, he ask if I could "find it in my heart" to take the post on yelp down. I've saved, then removed the post and will repost it if he doesn't get the job done properly. He asked that I bring the car back next Monday so he could repair it. He took the plastic dash fascia and trim pieces with him to repair the damage done to them (epoxy, sand, and let set over weekend). This time, I will insist that I see the repairs and verify that everything works before he buttons it up.
More updates to follow...


A little off the subject.
I already posted that when the car is running the inside "Volts" gauge reads less than 13 volts, but the BJB shows 13.6 volts. But, I had the alternator checked three different times and each test said the "voltage regulator" was bad. After some research, it seems that that's the only part of a 4G alternator that a consumer can easily replace. To rebuild the alternator takes some very specialized tools that a consumer most likely won't have.

I'd rather spend the $28 for the regulator than $200+ for a new alternator. Especially since I intend to swap my 130 amp unit for a 160 or 190 amp unit sometime in the future. I have the new regulator now and will replace it this weekend. Again, updates to follow.




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[justbob]

Make sure to replace with like color. There is black, white, and grey IIRC.


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[CrownVic75]

Make sure to replace with like color. There is black, white, and grey IIRC.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Yes, I did. I have the white one and that's what I replaced it with. It took me about 30 minutes to remove the alternator, replace the voltage regulator, and reinstall the alternator.
However, with the engine running I only measure 13.94 volts across the battery with a multimeter. I thought it should measure 14.5 volts. No engine running is 12.56 volts.




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[justbob]

High 13’s is quite typical. As long as it keeps up with accessories running the battery will get plenty of juice.


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[CrownVic75]

High 13’s is quite typical. As long as it keeps up with accessories running the battery will get plenty of juice.


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It reads the same (~13.9 volts) with headlights and A/C accessories on or off.
Inside the car the voltmeter still reads 13 volt plus or minus a few tenths of a volt. Looks like 13.1 versus previous of less than 13.
I'm thinking I'll run a wire from the voltmeter directly to the BJB. That way I'll have an accurate reading.
I just had a thought, what if the voltmeter itself is bad. Now I'll have to test that out.

I had planned to swap in a 190 amp alternator eventually, but at the moment I'm confused on how to do that. Which alternator, wiring changes, etc,.

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