Tranny temp sensor location

[valleyman]

I just received the extra capacity transmission pan from Dennis Reinhart and the tranny is comming out to have it, torque converter, cooling mod and level II parts installed. Question: should I have the pan tapped for a temp sensor before I have it installed or is there another convenient location to install a tranny temp sensor. With the Stallion torque converter and our blistering summer temperatures I want to keep an eye on the tranny temp.

[Logan]

Best to tap the sensor into the pan. You CAN screw the sender into the service port, but the gauge is not as responsive up there...

[MI2QWK4U]

I drilled and tapped the tranny pan for my sensor.

[MitchB]

If you want accuracy, put the sender in the output line to the cooler.

Mitch

[valleyman]

Thanks all.

[russ in VA]

I'd love to have a trans temp guage, but in order to prioritize this project, I'd like to know what kind of temps folks are seeing? Does it ever get to an objectionable level? (My car is stock (for now) and does not currently do any towing, but I may use it to pull a 5,000lbs trailer in the future).

[David Morton]

If you want accuracy, put the sender in the output line to the cooler.

MitchI agree, preferably close to the exit from the tranny. Trans fluid temp is at it's highest when it leaves the convertor (this line is directly from the convertor) and so the sensor in this location gives a good indication of how much stress the transmission is under.

This is also the line to divert fluid from to an auxilliary cooler, then on to the radiator. This insures fluid will be at least as hot as coolant, which is what the PCM assumes and uses in it's shift calculations.

[DEFYANT]

Is the Autometer inline tranny temp sensor manifold DIY friendly? Do I cut the OEM lines to place the manifold in? Or does it simply "bolt" in?

Thanks

[RF Overlord]

^^^what MitchB and David Morton said^^^

You have to cut the line, but it's not hard...use one of those miniature tubing cutters (the one like a little square block with a knob on it)...and you have to remove the coating on the line for an inch or so as well...the rest of it is "bolt-on"...

russ: even if your car stays stock, if you plan on towing ANYTHING, a trans temp gauge is a must...

[MENINBLK]

All the info you need for this can be found here...

ahess77 has a good post about mounting the manifold here...
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/foru...***.php?t=11222
and here...
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/foru...***.php?t=14671

I started a discussion on the Gauges here too...
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=16133

[wchain]

Dunno about the Panther, but on my F250 Power Stroke Diesel I had (4R100 Trans) the temp never got above 130 140, unless i was towing and driving harsh conditions.

It would be a good gauge to have either way.

[Donny Carlson]

I don't want to get into an extended thread about locations, but mine is in the pan. After consulting with two Ford master techs, one who specialized in transmissions, the consensus was the temp of the fluid in the pan was the better choice rather than tapping off the cooler line. Why? Well, you know what the temp of the fluid is being drawn into the tranny after a cold start, so you know when the fluid has reached an operational temp before you start asking it to take on WOTs, also the trans cooler doesn't keep fluid inside and dump it out with it reaches a certain temp - so what you see dumping into the pan is a good indication of 1) how hard the tranny is working and 2) how well the trans cooler is working. Meaning, if the tranny is working harder, the fluid temp in the pan will also be hotter even though it's just been through the cooler.

It's an easier install, you don't have to mess with pressurized hoses.

That said, I note that Dakota Digital is now offering a transmission line manifold for their sender.

[MitchB]

Dunno about the Panther, but on my F250 Power Stroke Diesel I had (4R100 Trans) the temp never got above 130 140, unless i was towing and driving harsh conditions.

It would be a good gauge to have either way.

Diesels with all their torque and low RPM range use low stall converters. Less slippage equals lower temperatures.

With regard to where you want to measure your fluid temps, I want to know what the peak temp is since this a more accurate indication of the conditions your trans/converter and fluid are subject to. This is sort of like measuring engine coolant temp. Do you want to know what the temp is at the lower part of the block, at the back of the heads or at the thermostat outlet?

If you know your pan fluid temp, but never know what your peak temps are, then this is not good. If all you could tell me is your pan fluid temps never go above 180, I would not say this is necessarily good.

Mitch

[schuvwj]

I've had my trany temp sensor installed in three different places.
1) Pan - (took forever to show operating temp.)
2) Trany Pressure Port - (This location seemed to give the temp of the case not the oil.)
3) Cooler Outlet Line - (This location gives the fastest temp)

From my experience the cooler line is by far the best choice. It gives you the quickest, most accurate temp in my opinion.

Have a Good Day!

[Constable]

http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/data/500/855DR_-_Pan_and_Temp_Sender-med.JPG


Dennis mounted the sender here... on the driver side rear potion of the pan. That was (supposedly) the best area to mount it in relation to the positions of internal components.

[DEFYANT]

Thanks guys. Excellent info.

[FordNut]

I'm adding another sensor and a rocker switch to select which one is connected to the gauge. Both sensors are mounted in the manifold blocks, located at the junction of the metal lines and the rubber lines (just in front of the ac compressor). One reads the temp from the tranny, the other reads the return temp. Why?... I noticed my temp was really running high at one point and couldn't tell if the tranny cooler fan was coming on. If I can switch to read the return temp I'll know if the coolers are working properly.

[metroplex]

You guys are funny...

My 00 4R70W came with a Transmission Fluid Temperature sensor already. You can view the data through a datalogger like CarCode (TFT). You don't need to stare at it everyday.

[RF Overlord]

metro, your attitude towards us has become very condescending recently...why?

A trans temp gauge is an inexpensive and useful addition, especially while towing.

[metroplex]

It's the format of the board... Ultra long/large signatures, etc... and I can't switch to a more conservative board format.

And the fact that it's funny to see Marauders being stuffed in the garages during the winter to preserve their resale value, but the owners not hesitating to use their Marauders to tow stuff... If I saw a used Marauder for sale, I would probably pay more for one that was garaged in the winter, but pay significantly less if it were used for towing. There's extra wear and tear on the transmission, chassis, brakes, suspension, and steering when towing.

[MENINBLK]

It's the format of the board... Ultra long/large signatures, etc... and I can't switch to a more conservative board format.

And the fact that it's funny to see Marauders being stuffed in the garages during the winter to preserve their resale value, but the owners not hesitating to use their Marauders to tow stuff... If I saw a used Marauder for sale, I would probably pay more for one that was garaged in the winter, but pay significantly less if it were used for towing. There's extra wear and tear on the transmission, chassis, brakes, suspension, and steering when towing.

How much would you pay if the Marauder had "Wheelie Bars" out back ??? :dunno: :)

[MENINBLK]

You guys are funny...

My 00 4R70W came with a Transmission Fluid Temperature sensor already. You can view the data through a datalogger like CarCode (TFT). You don't need to stare at it everyday.

I had a1998 Contour SE Sport.
It burned up 2 CD4E transaxles in under 80,000 miles.
The first was serviced at 30,000 miles and died 1,000 miles later,
the second was service every 6,000 miles, and died 50,000 miles later.
The killer was heat...

How did I find this out ?

First I used Alex Peper's OBD-II software kit with my laptop to record the TFT temps while driving the car.
When I saw the TFT temps go up to 350F !!!, I thought about the possiblity of a malfunctioning sender
or the algorythms in the software may be off a little...
So I installed a Autometer Trans Oil Temp Gauge on the Outlet of the transaxle for the Oil Cooler.
So the gauge would read the temps of the oil as it exited the transaxle on its way to the cooler.

When the 2nd transmission started to act up, I could SEE the temps climbing.
I then went back to using the OBD-II software to record the temps,
and the TFT and the Autometer both had the same exact temp readings !!!

I then took the evidence to the dealer, who connected their own OBD-II Data Logger and drove the car.
To their surprise, their readings matched the Autometer Gauge exactly also !!

The culprit ended up being the valve body in the transaxle.
FORD had selected an inferior grade of aluminum to machine the valve body
and it ended up being too soft for the Valves they were using.
One of the valves, being the internal pressure regulator, would also bleed off oil for the oil cooler.
If the valve body wore to the point that the oil could just slip by the valve
instead of modulating the valve to regulate cooling and pressure,
the valve would FLOAT in the stream of oil cutting off the flow of oil to the cooler
and spiking the internal pressure of the transaxle.

The only cure was to buy a SONNAX Complete Valve Body, and beef it up with a TransGo Jr. kit.

I can't tell you how many Contour Owners had to have their CD4E Transaxle replaced,
and paid a CORE CHARGE, because when the oil pressure spikes to 2,000 (TWO THOUSAND) PSI,
it literally splits the transaxle case in two...

So this is the reason why I want a Trans Oil Temp gauge on my Marauder...
I know they have a different transmission than the Contour, but if too much heat
begins to show, then it means that something internal isn't working correctly...

If I could find place for the Trans Oil Pressure, that would be my next Gauge...

[Joe Walsh]

I'm adding another sensor and a rocker switch to select which one is connected to the gauge. Both sensors are mounted in the manifold blocks, located at the junction of the metal lines and the rubber lines (just in front of the ac compressor). One reads the temp from the tranny, the other reads the return temp. Why?... I noticed my temp was really running high at one point and couldn't tell if the tranny cooler fan was coming on. If I can switch to read the return temp I'll know if the coolers are working properly.


I like your idea of using two (2) senders in order to monitor the outlet line temp + the pan temp.
Do you think that the addition of a switch will affect or change the readings/resistance of the signal(s)?

[FordNut]

I like your idea of using two (2) senders in order to monitor the outlet line temp + the pan temp.
Do you think that the addition of a switch will affect or change the readings/resistance of the signal(s)?
Shouldn't make a difference. The switch is rated for 10 amps, so it doesn't have significant internal resistance.

[FordNut]

Shouldn't make a difference. The switch is rated for 10 amps, so it doesn't have significant internal resistance.
Switch is installed, sensor is installed, wiring still needs done from the 2nd sensor to the switch (actually to the molex connector close to the switch). Switch made no difference to the temp readings with the present sensor.