A resurrection: 2003 MM fix!

[Agent2006]

Hello:

Saw this on CL last year, I drive a MGM, this MM was being parted, but when I visited it I knew I had to step in. 200 mile tow, $1300 bucks and 131K on the clock. Would not run. broken control arms , seemingly no frame whack/damage. Allegedly has pullies and a Magnaflow exhaust, had a Lidio's tune but the PO took it off. 355 gears. (I'm thinking Mo's! for this time around.)

Slowly I have started accumulating parts and pieces to get MM back on the road...early car around #300 on the build sheet....car is Single Stage black has been repainted a few times.

So far:
replaced:missing front sway bar, headrests, floor mats, LF fender, hood(from a MM), door (from a MM), rear sail panel trim interior piece, interior door panels, radio, Left side U/L control arms, fuel pump, fuel pump relay, battery, airbox, MAF, HVAC O-rings....now she starts and has a smooth idle. I have a damaged rear SB MARAUDER bumper cover I'm fixing, but what's on there now is a black CV cover from a junked taxi...still can read the numbers if you get real close, but this car is NOT FOR HIRE!!!! LOL...front bumper egg crate/ plastic things, CV tailights, MGM head lamps, turn signals....How quickly a $1300 car becomes a $3000 car. who cares? I now have a MM!!!!!!!!! I may have gone slightly OCD on a CL car.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wW9-63dA-8E

On the agenda
-I'm getting fuel level gauge code, fuel gauge does not work (new cheapo fuel pump issue?) maybe I'll swap the new fuel pump motor over to the guts/bracket/float sending unit of the old fuel pump, install inner fender liner, front bumper cover (MGM one for now, I didn't have the $600 to get a MM one, MGM one was $79 bucks), fix oil filter adapter leak,drivers side and pass rear window mechanisms...

Stay tuned! advice will be sought at various times.

48127

[NorthShoreChiMM]

Your a true frankenstein. +1
Use "the right stuff" to seal both sides of the oil filter adapter gasket. P/N 70801 from felpro

[Agent2006]

You mean: The spray on "right stuff" from Home Depot, made by Dow Chemical? Thanks! I was going to put it on dry...best forum on the internet!

[crownvic97]

You mean: The spray on "right stuff" from Home Depot, made by Dow Chemical? Thanks! I was going to put it on dry...best forum on the internet!

I use Permatex RTV “Right Stuff” Your FLAPS should all carry it.

[crownvic97]

Great to see one being saved! Wish more would!

[Gerry24]

Keep us informed and post pics!

[crabby125]

I have the 4 door panels off this exact car if you're interested, I also have a decent set of 03 Marauder OE headlights. shoot me a PM.

[NorthShoreChiMM]

What crownvic97 said

[Agent2006]

WTF?

For a few weeks I've investigated "no crank, no start" on this car, then today:
--hooked a remote starter switch to two of the terminals of new starter I put on there. Just heard whirring. So the bendix is not kicking in? Then I tried the key. BINGO. Car immediately fired up and settled into a smooth idle/purr...

BIFF: nobody can start this car but me?

pix shortly. I'm putting the front end back together...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b-KGR9lV05I

[Ambitious1]

Great to see one being saved! Wish more would!

+1 on this! :agree:

[Agent2006]

Finally got the front end together, aftermarket parts (they don't fit too bad, considering)...I tried to hold out for OEM but like many tough guys: Marauders tend to die with their boots on, - the front end pieces are trashed. Got tired of waiting..header panel is from Taiwan Rock Auto was $137 shipped, front bumper cover was from Parts Train $433 shipped! lousy cell phone pic...

so:
-control arms are replaced
-fender/hood/grill/lights/drivers door are on

to do:
-fix oil filter housing gasket
-low fuel light/gauge doesn't work
-finish installing guts of drivers door
-install interior door panels
-test drive....

[crownvic97]

Great progress! Keep it up!

[03Merc]

Good deal on the bumper! I luckily found one at the junk yard for $25 one day!


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[crownvic97]

Good deal on the bumper! I luckily found one at the junk yard for $25 one day!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Well, that's a steal!

[1Marauder]

Extremely impressed! Fantastic progress. More photos when weather and time permit please.

Also, what's next?

Living vicariously through your build.

[Agent2006]

Thanks

I promise the potato camera pix will improve.

Next up:
---"low fuel" issue/warning light....I installed a new Rock Auto fuel pump/sender. I never saw this car run, and this car was being parted out before I jumped in, so I never thought to ask about the status of any gauges. Either the (brand new) sending unit is no good, short in the wiring back there, there's some problem with the wiring, or the read unit at the speedo cluster. I have a new cluster. Eventually throws a P0460 code.

Also need to resolve the corroded coolant bypass issue. for now, I'm parking the car facing up on a steep hill so the overflow is the highest point then trying to basically burp it that way. Eventually probably going On3.

...need to finish looking it over for any remaining problems caused by the crash, or the parts stripping.

Finally have to see what will fail inspection

[TheMarquisPlaya]

Nice. Always like a good old-fashioned resurrection.

[Agent2006]

OK, it was 68F here yesterday so I tackled the P0460 code issue.

--the car had a dead fuel pump when I got it, so I got a new one from RA...cheapo version. Never underestimate the high cost of cheap! new cheapo pump worked but thereafter threw a P0460 code (open fuel circuit). Fuel gauge stuck on E. I checked connections, rechecked connections, reset the code, yanked the gauge cluster install a 10K mile one, bypassed the fuel slosh module (which is a microcircuit board that slides into the back of the gauge cluster. where it plugs in there are three metallic conductors on one side of the plugged in edge, and two on the other side of that edge. I'll try to post a pick. To bypass this module, jump the two connectors and plug it back in.

...was it low on fuel? added 5 gallons. nothing. So I bit the bullet, pulled the cheapo and installed a new Delphi fuel pump unit, low fuel light is out and the gauge is now reading 1/2 tank...lesson learned! also when you have a 1/2 tank expect a nice gasoline stream down your arm.

next steps: install Ford Escape 6 CD changer, replace HVAC climate controller(HVAC fuse keeps blowing)...closer and closer to getting it on the road!

[justbob]

Why did you install a lower mileage gauge cluster?


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[Agent2006]

only to test. I did not have a Ford instrument tester like the service manual recommends. So how to test for a bad fuel gauge itself? Of course the brand new cheapo fuel pump and sender could not POSSIBLY be bad, so how to test with a good fuel gauge?

I swapped my original cluster back in after this test was completed.

[offroadkarter]

I am still in such disbelief that someone is trying to fix this car.


This car used to belong to a good friend of mine, which is whom you purchased it from. If you'd like to see this cars history on MM.net, search username "rossv1". You should find all the mods it had (some it still has).


After this car got wrecked (for the third and final time), I went down with another friend of mine and we left with:

All 4 door panels
Rear bumper
1 good headlight
Spare tire cover and hold down
Center caps
Tail lights
Addco front swaybar (couldn't get the rear one off, way too rusty)

When he told me someone bought the rest of the car and was planning to put it back on the road, I remember thinking who would be insane enough to try and resurrect this 3 accident, high mile, very rusty philly car. Then I found this thread, and here we are.

Here are some photos of your new marauder from happier times

Good luck and God speed on your restoration

https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/Forum-Meets/Fuddruckers-Meet-81112/i-ZKXfhHF/0/aa32a6fd/X2/DSC_1926-X2.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/Carlisle-AFN-ALL/Carlisle-All-Ford-Nationals/i-bN9cGbT/0/0db133e7/X2/DSC_2791-X2.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars/Carlisle-AFN-ALL/Carlisle-All-Ford-Nationals/i-cgg7rJT/0/af3fb852/X2/DSC_2790-X2.jpg

and of course, this is probably how it looked when you picked it up

https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars-I-Dont-Own/Ross-2003-Mercury-Marauder/Part-out/i-Nk8kthW/0/b0f3dbe1/X3/20170211_160141-X3.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars-I-Dont-Own/Ross-2003-Mercury-Marauder/Part-out/i-mbSDfms/0/470cf81e/X3/20170211_160148-X3.jpg
https://photos.smugmug.com/Cars-I-Dont-Own/Ross-2003-Mercury-Marauder/Part-out/i-SkQnzXq/0/ab770c72/X3/20170211_160102-X3.jpg


Here is the autocheck history on that car, starting on 2/05/2010 is when my friend owned it

https://autocheck.remorainc.com/autocheck.php?t=jmno95KNHoAkAV QR3AmupfYjCza5e5qFSV2gUf1DkmQU khFwSK3aJGYjQAzm56cOhGUrfCzoVL JqdStgqYSY9c15CFsmRIRgZk2wR99R XPzK%2BYzEw74lhpVNc19pvqu5

[Cosgrandmarquis]

Yikes!!! :eek:

[Agent2006]

Thanks for the info offroadkarter:

Ross is a stand up guy, good seller, I recommend him 100%. MM readers: He also has a nice Buick GN so don't worry he's still going fast..

17 autocheck score LOL! I guess the car has nowhere to go but up.

Rust: spent time in ME, then RI then Philadelphia, that about covers the rust belt. I'll get some under car pix posted in the future, pretty crusty. HF wire wheels and emory cloth will be my constant companions.

No time to worry about that for now ---the MM is in a nice warm garage, and I'm putting in a Ford Escape CD player and replacing the EATC this AM...(the EATC in there when I got it was missing a valve spring, ---replaced that and the O rings, but still it blows fuses)...

[Gerry24]

I think that's cool how the story of the MM keeps going as well with photos.

[Serge]

Looks to be in better shape than rusty pos that I had. Minus the smashed and missing parts that is.

3 CVPI doors, a fender, trunk lid off another Marauder, rockers made from scrap washing machine and $3000 Marauder turned into $6000 Marauder.

[Agent2006]

Round 12,996....this evening I tackled odd/various interior components not working. My new Motorcraft Blower control module is on the way...

..checked all the fuses in the fuse panel under the dash...then hit the power lock button. Promptly blew the #15 fuse and the interior lights, stereo and HVAC don't come on. locks dont work...Thinking it is my junkyard Drivers door module. XW7T-13C791-AB. scrounged out of a smashed 2001 GM. Ordered a 2003 MM module allegedly "tested". Stay tuned...

[offroadkarter]

Round 12,996....this evening I tackled odd/various interior components not working. My new Motorcraft Blower control module is on the way...

..checked all the fuses in the fuse panel under the dash...then hit the power lock button. Promptly blew the #15 fuse and the interior lights, stereo and HVAC don't come on. locks dont work...Thinking it is my junkyard Drivers door module. XW7T-13C791-AB. scrounged out of a smashed 2001 GM. Ordered a 2003 MM module allegedly "tested". Stay tuned...

It's very possible you have the wrong switches

I ran into the same problem on my 03 (if I find your old switches I'll see how they're pinned out but that could be a couple weeks.)

My 03 had the passenger door lock switch unplugged. If I plugged it in, the driver or passenger door would blow the interior lights if I held it down to long. From what I found out, sometime during the 03 year the wiring changed and they moved a couple pins on the harness. I had to go to the dealer and order new lock switches (gave them my vin) and thankfully the correct ones showed up. I am pretty sure on the switch itself, one of the pins either moved or isn't there, which is partly how I discovered this.

My 03 and 04 Marauder have a different pinout on the lock switch pigtail, I bet you have the wrong switch hooked up. Essentially what was happening was when you hit the lock or unlock button, it was sending power through the illumination circuit causing all the lights to blow.

Oh yeah, I sold your DDM as well to a member on here, sorry :D

[Agent2006]

My 03 had the passenger door lock switch unplugged. If I plugged it in, the driver or passenger door would blow the interior lights if I held it down to long. From what I found out, sometime during the 03 year the wiring changed and they moved a couple pins on the harness. I had to go to the dealer and order new lock switches (gave them my vin) and thankfully the correct ones showed up. I am pretty sure on the switch itself, one of the pins either moved or isn't there, which is partly how I discovered this.

Great info thanks! The problem you had sounds alot like my symptoms. I've had to re-learn this lesson- JUST BECAUSE THE CONNECTOR PLUGS, IN DOESN'T MAKE IT COMPATIBLE! I ordered 3W7T-13C791-AA ...if (please don't spend a ton of time looking for it) you ad a photo of that part/part number - I'd really love that info. Knowing what I know now, what a fool I was to grab one out of a 2001 MGM. When the fuse blew and I plugged another one into #15 --there was an orange spark! ugh. I'll run this part number past the dealer parts guy and my VIN ---THANKS, great tip. I bought a new Ford drivers door master switch assembly, I'll see what that PN number is as well. Other Idea I had was: Is this short due to the keyless pad shorting/shorted out? Any more problems after I swap the new DDM, and I'm unhooking that.

Funny without any DDM, the HVAC lights up, interior lights come one, compass works, and the stereo works. I bought a 2005 Escape radio - ED suffix. Of course it was the base model --the one NOT to buy. Had to buy two connectors and solder all 8-10 wires together. I wish I bought -FC the Audiophile one. Oh, well...

While I'm waiting for that new-to-me DDM and my Motorcraft Blower module, I'm replacing the battery/starter harness tomorrow night. Stay tuned!

[offroadkarter]

My 03 had the passenger door lock switch unplugged. If I plugged it in, the driver or passenger door would blow the interior lights if I held it down to long. From what I found out, sometime during the 03 year the wiring changed and they moved a couple pins on the harness. I had to go to the dealer and order new lock switches (gave them my vin) and thankfully the correct ones showed up. I am pretty sure on the switch itself, one of the pins either moved or isn't there, which is partly how I discovered this.

Great info thanks! The problem you had sounds alot like my symptoms. I've had to re-learn this lesson- JUST BECAUSE THE CONNECTOR PLUGS, IN DOESN'T MAKE IT COMPATIBLE! I ordered 3W7T-13C791-AA ...if (please don't spend a ton of time looking for it) you ad a photo of that part/part number - I'd really love that info. Knowing what I know now, what a fool I was to grab one out of a 2001 MGM. When the fuse blew and I plugged another one into #15 --there was an orange spark! ugh. I'll run this part number past the dealer parts guy and my VIN ---THANKS, great tip. I bought a new Ford drivers door master switch assembly, I'll see what that PN number is as well. Other Idea I had was: Is this short due to the keyless pad shorting/shorted out? Any more problems after I swap the new DDM, and I'm unhooking that.

Funny without any DDM, the HVAC lights up, interior lights come one, compass works, and the stereo works. I bought a 2005 Escape radio - ED suffix. Of course it was the base model --the one NOT to buy. Had to buy two connectors and solder all 8-10 wires together. I wish I bought -FC the Audiophile one. Oh, well...

While I'm waiting for that new-to-me DDM and my Motorcraft Blower module, I'm replacing the battery/starter harness tomorrow night. Stay tuned!


Here is a video I took when I was troubleshooting mine, you'll see how it was behaving

https://offroadkarter.smugmug.com/2003-Mercury-Marauder/Door-Locks/n-VTZs8n/i-88vZrxf/A

I'll pull a switch out of my car tomorrow after work it should have the engineering # on there at least.

[Agent2006]

That's an interesting video, much easier to understand the symptoms than trying to describe it. The passenger door switch I have came with the passenger 2003 Marauder door panel. The master switch (driver's door bunch of switches, master lock button, child button etc.)..I ordered new for a 2003 Mercury Grand Marquis...I did see your DDM number. same as the one I ordered. When it comes in I'll report back. Meanwhile, replacing the battery/starter /alt harness, the worst part is one heat shield bolt next to the pass . exhaust manifold. tough one to get to! ...assembling u-joint/extensions now...

[Agent2006]

Update:

replaced the battery/starter/alt wiring harness. I take back everything I thought or said about Ford using too-small of a wire gauge, the thing was difficult enough to route and bend the wires where they were supposed to go. Executive summary - my salt-mobile harness was in OK shape at 131K miles, except for the top part=- both battery terminals and those top connections...in case you are on the fence about replacing yours. Attached pic is the bastard of the whole job, the harness is attached to the back of the engine block on the pass side by this metal bracket. KEEPS the harness off the pass side exhaust and burning the whole car down. Don't zip-tie/say F it. The stud is a tough one to get to, too tight for a long socket, stud is too long to seat a std 13MM socket.

If you replace this harness, take VERY careful note of where the harness goes over/under various lines , it wont fit well otherwise.

The good news, get a socket on there U-joints its not on there that tight, break it loose and you can spin it off by fingers. Other bad news for me--my forearm is too fat to get up in there, had to take off RF tire and pull forward the inner fender liner, take off one upper retaining bolt/fender washer, and you can jam your arm in there. Minus a little O+ fluid.

Next task - grind down and repaint (Rustoleum) cross over tube, was kinda flaky but got down to solid metal OK. scariest parts are the tube near the temp sensors, but they look solid. I can't pay $350-400 for an OEM replacement right now. I used emory cloth and a sander. This came out OK.

What is WAY too crusty is the heater hose return tube, I ordered one from RA -it is the wrong tube. This tube along the pass side engine is MM specific.... So the plan is to get 3 ft of 5/8" heater hose and bypass the metal tube, this car is NOT a resto. see last pic, looks like a metal coolant line from the Titanic.

BSCM and the new DDM came today...woo hoo!

[Invective]

You are a true inspiration!

[Comin' in Hot]

The hose coming off the heater core is 3/4”, you’re going to need a reducer somewhere to go to 5/8”. I’ll try to get a picture of mine, but I used pre-bent universal 90° hose sections to make it follow the factory routing better than a straight piece. I’ll try to find some photos of it. If not I’ll take some tomorrow.

[MyBlackBeasts]

The hose coming off the heater core is 3/4”, your going to need a reduced somewhere to go to 5/8”. I’ll try to get a picture of mine, but are used pre-bent universal 90° hose sections to make follow the factory routing better than a straight piece.


This^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[Invective]

If you get bored...

https://scontent.fbne2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/52706492_2514625378611512_1220 310409064480768_o.jpg?_nc_cat= 101&_nc_ht=scontent.fbne2-1.fna&oh=c2bd312751a59236427a069a81d 7305b&oe=5D202CEB

[Agent2006]

Originally Posted by Comin' in Hot View Post
The hose coming off the heater core is 3/4”, your going to need a reduced somewhere to go to 5/8”. I’ll try to get a picture of mine, but are used pre-bent universal 90° hose sections to make follow the factory routing better than a straight piece

Thanks! great info ....I hadn't noticed the heater core exit was 3/4" and the crossover tube was 5/8". I got a 3/4" to 5/8" adapter from A.Z. was $3 bucks.. I'm running all 5/8" hose on this one,no 90 degree bends on this one.

To invective-what was the design inspiration for those lovely spokes? Looks like a 76 Chevy Nova steering wheel.

https://www.ebay.com/p/75-79-Chevy-Nova-LN-Impala-Malibu-Monte-Steering-Wheel-W-Horn-Pad-9754887/1322653555?iid=202308925279&chn=ps

[a_d_a_m]

Glad to see this one getting a 4th chance. And of course offroadkarter knows about this car; he's a MM historian :D

[Agent2006]

Whew! The cross over tube plug is giving me a good fight.

So far:

--KROIL
--PB blaster
--Acetone/Mercon V
--propane torch
--cutting a slot/trying to chisel
--vice grips, vice grips , and more vice grips. plus cheater bar
--tapping on the sides/on the top
--paraffin wax candle drips

...so rusted , you can't see the seam between plug and tube...

all have failed to budge the plug. I'm thinking: drill out the center, then larger and larger drills until I can chisel and tap...hope that won't destroy the tube threads.

Or disconnect the overflow tank and raise that up to form the burp point. If this were bypass kit, how do they burp that? I would think by raising the overflow tank to be the highest point.

if it does...I'm think of buying a Cobra or Aviator style tube which aren't a zillion bucks, then getting a 180 degree silicone hose and a couple of 90 dgree bends to allow the MM radiator hoses to be hooked up...thoughts? NOT GIVING UP!

Or is it better to hacksaw horizontally and remove the plug and maybe a thread or two, then try to clean up whats left of the tube threads??

On the positive side, I've obtained a drivers door panel from a wrecked charcoal interior taxi, the arm rest is in good shape (shocking, I know), unlike my trashed MM Dr door panel, So I'm dremeling out the plastic weld/plugs to allow removal, then install on my MM panel. To reinstall, I plan to use self tapping screws and fender washers on the backside of the panel.

[a_d_a_m]

Propane wouldn't budge my COT at 103k, and it wasn't even rusted. Neighbor used his MAP torch on it and it begrudgingly let loose.
If you know anyone that welds, maybe weld a larger nut atop the plug and see if you get anywhere with that?

[Agent2006]

Thanks Adam - good thought, but I don't have anyone nearby who can weld. One more thought -- drill it out, and tap it for a smaller "hydraulic plug". That's what these plugs essentially are, a hydraulic plug you can get from McMaster Carr etc.. Anything to allow air bleeding and resealing. Then get a delete kit later.

[a_d_a_m]

I may have missed this, but is the COT pipe still installed? Or had you removed the pipe?

I wouldn't drill into the plug if it was still connected to the motor - worry about shavings getting into the coolant...

[Agent2006]

still installed. I would disconnect the radiator hose, then stuff the tube full of rags to catch the shavings.

[Agent2006]

...what to do, what to do? Burp plug won't budge, afraid of damaging the whole tube assembly, yet I need to bleed air/burp the system at the highest point?

One option is to get the on3 bypass kit, but for now...

possible answer -- install an in-line radiator neck/cap into the top radiator hose. like one of these...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hre-3423?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-howe-racing&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIx46wy_rP4AIV A4zICh1hwA4YEAQYASABEgL2k_D_Bw E

summit one looks too long, I don't think I have enough straight section of upper radiator hose..

Snagged one out of a junked 2004 Dodge Dakota, which is shorter length. $2.50. if it can be spliced in, i'll add a pic. also grabbed an oil cap, auto parts store generic one on my engine shattered in my hand, grabbed the upper door triangle trim for the front pass door, and a cheapo steel hook spare tire hold down. It'll do the job.

[justbob]

A nice set of Channel locks should easily remove it? (Actual Channel lock brand, nothing else..)

I’d be more worried of snapping the engine mounts from torquing it loose LOL (or at least the legs on the COT).

Also as funny as it sounds, quite often tightening something first actually loosens most stuff up that was originally stuck.


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[Agent2006]

Initiating HACK JOB sequence....(burp cap install in top rad hose)

after the exhausting oil cap swap, I had to lie down for a while..LOL

[parker]

If you get bored...



https://scontent.fbne2-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/52706492_2514625378611512_1220 310409064480768_o.jpg?_nc_cat= 101&_nc_ht=scontent.fbne2-1.fna&oh=c2bd312751a59236427a069a81d 7305b&oe=5D202CEB


Youse guys laughed at me years ago when I said these were the ugliest rims in existence.

But who’s laughing now???

HAHAHAHAHA


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[Agent2006]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmQBT_M8Rms

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBPTbmyxxUI (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBPTbmyxxUI)

[Agent2006]

Zombie Marauder: Big updates!

---installed new bleeder cap/spliced into top rad hose
---replaced crud-tastic metal heater tube with 5/8" rubber line
---replaced BSCM (which was apparently shorted out blowing multiple fuses
---replaced DDM
---replaced drivers door arm rest


---details: bleeder cap/fitting is a junkyard 2004 Dakota part with a new radiator cap from Advance auto
---tips for replacing heater tube - true the one end is 3/4" and the other is 5/8", but you won't have enough 3/4" length to get the heater core pipe and the adapter barb on there, so buy 1 ft of new 3/4" hose to use. I used 3 ft of 5/8". My old tube disintegrated when I went to take it off, it was on borrowed time.
---See my rig to get to the BSCM screws -there are two 8mm, it's a 1/4" drive, U joint, short extension, then to a 3/8" drive/ratchet. Otherwise you won't have enough room to get on the one screw head. See I taped the screw in place, but I took that off and used baling wire to keep it there, or it WILL fall down when you are twisting/wrestling it in place. Need to remove the outboard heater core rubber supply line and bend it down out of the way.

---EATC works fine on all speeds and through the vents.

---MM door panel I got had a trashed arm rest, pretty bad when a junked taxi cab one was in better shape. I chiseled off the white plastic melt heads on the back side, then used self tapping screws to affix it to my MM door panel. Much better.



everything seems to work inside the car, lights, locks, EATC, stereo, dash clock!

next job is to make sure the cooling system is bled all the way, hopefully easier with my homemade rig but I'm proceeding with extreme caution, a few heat cycles and use of the ramps... next mechanical thing is to get the front end aligned...any tips on a 1 1/2" lowered MM alignment specs?

[justbob]

Lowered that much I guarantee you will need a set of these if there isn’t already.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sps-87365

Other than that look for Carfixer’s alignment specs on here and run with it.


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[Agent2006]

Thanks Justbob, I'll have to verify the 1 1/2" drop, doesn't look that low.

Picture after claybar, black magic, then Meguiar's...

[Agent2006]

Other idea I had ---splice in a Tee 5/8" to the heater hose I just installed , and run a hose line to the driver's head top freeze plug with a 5/8 " brass barb threaded in, then puddle high-lead solder around the threaded area. Cheapo- head cooling mod, not as great as the On3 mods, I know, but:at around $25 bucks, seems like a good idea. no ticking or miss at all, but NOW might be a good time to do this before I get to that point. After sitting for days, I see a wisp of blue/white smoke from the left pipe only, upon first start up. Then nothing...Valve stem seal on #8 cyl getting tired?

Thoughts?

[justbob]

Zack and Musclemerc have been making the freeze plug cooling mod kits for like a decade. You can say it’s been proven to work this long.


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[offroadkarter]

Thanks Justbob, I'll have to verify the 1 1/2" drop, doesn't look that low.

Picture after claybar, black magic, then Meguiar's...

I swear his car had eaton detroit lowering coils and SPC camber bolts. Measure from the ground to the top of the wheel arch, if you have a 235/50 up front it should be easy to tell if it's lowered.

My black car which I dropped an inch is about 27.5", my red car which is on coilovers is currently just under 27" but I know it was 27" dead on when I had the 1.5 eaton detroit drop springs on it.

[Agent2006]

Thanks offroadkarter, I'll check that measurement.

Also: not sure I just didn't blow a DDM fuse just now, might have the odd switch problem...I got a generic CV/MGM brand new master driver door's switch assembly maybe from Amazon, or ebay, and not sure what is on the pass front door, I got that 2003 MM pass door panel from ebay and the actual switch out of a junked 2000 MGM....quite a mix/match of parts on my door lock circuits,,,,

[Agent2006]

Gettin' close!

Bled the cooling system today, on car ramps, with my crossover tube/radiator cap. Multi step process, System releasing all remaining air, heater full blast, just a 1/4 cup more in there...then
DRIP
DRIP DRIP
DRIP DRIPDRIP DRIPDRIP DRIPDRIP DRIPDRIP DRIPDRIP DRIPDRIP DRIP

--junkyard Dodge Dakota 1.5" radiator cap/tube cracked. Because Chrysler. The auxiliary burp cap is a good concept I think.

So, I ordered an aluminum one from Summit....should be here in a couple of days.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/HRE-3423


Also picked up insurance on the car, painted the fender and nose with a spray can, Rustoleum 2X black high gloss + will cover with 2K clear and wet sand/buff. pics soon.

(Yeah, full strip/repaint someday , or when Powerball hits...but for a driver black MM, the match is not bad! For those suffering white/gray skin disease and cannot $$$ a full repaint. Might tide you over...)

Door lock issue. Blew fuses everytime I hit the button .Yanked the door lock button on my replacement switch panel it is a later version 4W7T-14963-AAW ...to offroadkarters comment maybe not compatible with my DDM. I'll stop by the dealer, give them my VIN and see what the correct P/N is.

looking online... - "4W7Z-14028-AAA" is allegedly the correct switch for MM's. I can tell you my car now --HIT the lock button --- then look at fuse 23--- it will be blown. Will verify at the dealer tomorrow.

[Agent2006]

Update--just hit the 1,000 mile mark since she got back on the road. Runs great! (why oh why do my pix post sideways or upside down? Windows Hate, Windows 8...)

[Agent2006]

Update: ECM failure (fixed $400, plus $400 tow) June 2019 around 140K...water pump failure ($65, plus $400 tow) around 145K...left front hub/bearing at 149 K ($100 bucks no tow: use loctite blue on the hub bolts, or you'll be doing it twice and maybe replacing a brake hose! lol)... right rear axle seal/bearing Aug 2021 (fixed $200 in parts, no tow)...factory black MGM left fender to replace ebay junk... .... saw-zalled out sketchy aftermarket H-pipe (Mustang?) due to rust outs/leaking at the H, diameter 2.25" was welded to stock 2.0" flanges...new JEGS 2.25" aluminized H pipe was $65 bucks....pix soon. Running great at 151K.