Car won't start....but then it does.

[Jtrip]

Has happened three times. Turn key to start and nothing. Dash lights come on like normal, I hear the fuel pump come on. I've put the shifter in all positions while key is turned. Battery should be good. No clicking, no dragging.

Then all of a sudden it will start right up. Left it at home today but need to get it fixed as it is my daily driver.

I am guessing the starter. Starter used to rattle on startup but haven't in a while. Suggestions??

[Marauderman]

Similar condition with my Vic --traced power draw on battery from the LCM causing battery too weak to start off and on --LCM in mail to fastblackmerc for fix as you read this--

[JimP]

I had a similar issue with mine twice. The first time it was the 30 amp starter relay located in the junction box under the hood, replaced it and I was good for 2 years and then.....

The second time the harness on top of my transmission wasn't properly plugged in, the diagnostic scanner would show that the car was in maual 2 regardless of what position the shifter was in. I did have the trans out to install a converter and likely hadn't plugged it back together properly.

Both situations my no start issue appeared random like yours.

The rattling of the starter is likely a small piece of a brush which has come apart, mine does it now and then, more so when it's cold out. It's not that uncommon to hear that, we don' t have many vics left as cruisers where I work but I know that sound well as many of them would do it too.

[Jtrip]

I had a similar issue with mine twice. The first time it was the 30 amp starter relay located in the junction box under the hood, replaced it and I was good for 2 years and then.....

The second time the harness on top of my transmission wasn't properly plugged in, the diagnostic scanner would show that the car was in maual 2 regardless of what position the shifter was in. I did have the trans out to install a converter and likely hadn't plugged it back together properly.

Both situations my no start issue appeared random like yours.

The rattling of the starter is likely a small piece of a brush which has come apart, mine does it now and then, more so when it's cold out. It's not that uncommon to hear that, we don' t have many vics left as cruisers where I work but I know that sound well as many of them would do it too.
Going to try and replace the relay first. Should be cheap enough.

[Jtrip]

Similar condition with my Vic --traced power draw on battery from the LCM causing battery too weak to start off and on --LCM in mail to fastblackmerc for fix as you read this--
Battery does not sound weak. Almost like the ignition is not connecring.

[RF Overlord]

Just to be clear, are you saying the engine won't crank, or that it cranks but won't start?

[Jtrip]

Just to be clear, are you saying the engine won't crank, or that it cranks but won't start?
Engine won't crank. But after a few tries it will crank and starts right up like nothing was wrong.

[Marauderjack]

Starter relay possibly??:confused:

[fastblackmerc]

Check all your connections + & -.

[1Marauder]

+1 on starter relay. These ore often overlooked. Exchange relay with another in panel to test.

I had same issue. Changed to new battery (it needed one anyway), changed the brake peddle lock out switch, then changed starter relay.

[justgod]

Check your major ground connections in the engine compart also. Undo the positive on the battery, undo and clean your starter connections, alternator, fuse box and engine grounds to the frame. Just a little corrosion on any one of these can cause this. Use a little sandpaper on any dirty connections you find and apply dielectric grease. Tighten all down to spec. This is the cheapest, easiest fix to start with anyway.

[Jtrip]

So, let me back up a bit and add a part that might have something to do with the starting problem.

I recently purchased a power window / door lock bezel from someone on here with all the switches. Great used part, no complaints. Works great except when I turn the key to start the car, my power locks would activate. I am pretty sure it was unlocking the doors, twice. Once when I turned the key forward to start and once after I started it. Maybe that has something to do with it.

Anyways in the meantime I switched out the starter solenoid relay with the air suspension relay( air bags have been deleted, I bought it that way) and have replaced the power lock switch with the old one from before. No starting problems all day today. We'll see.

Thanks for the previous responses!

Oh yea. No more power lock activation noise. Hopefully it's fixed!

[Turbov6Bryan]

Refund no issue.
Lmk

[Jtrip]

Refund no issue.
Lmk
Nah. It's cool. I switched out the power lock button already plus I needed the bezel because of the broken tab on mine. It's good! Thanks!

[03marauderman]

Ah...This is something I know about.....free advise to you, costly to me.....A specialty Ford shop, that only repairs Fords, started out with changing the starter, then the transmission switch, then something about the cluster....After hours & hours of wiring diagnoses the fault was found in the ECM (computer) ground.....They ran a separate ground from the module to the apron.....started ever since....by the way, this was on my 06 Crown Vic.....

[Marauderman]

Similar condition with my Vic --traced power draw on battery from the LCM causing battery too weak to start off and on --LCM in mail to fastblackmerc for fix as you read this--


Battery does not sound weak. Almost like the ignition is not connecring.

Like I said--there were one or more relays inside mine that for whatever reason was drawing just enough power to draw against the battery thru several circuits( more than needed for clock of course) which caused thses intermittent starts cause battery power at least was weak. All of this was proven in my case. When I get my LCM back from fastblackmerc it all should work fine.

Right now each time car starts as supposed to while waiting for the LCM return.

Found my problem with meter on battery and noticed amps still being drawn on battery --so started pulling circuits one at a time inside engine box first till drop noticed-that happen to be the 40am one for several circuits inside under the dash---identified triose and started pulling one at time and the LCM box was the one that removed the power draw--so sent it off the fastblackmerc--who has informed me that the inside needed fixin--so that told me that hopefully is the fix---that's where I am at moment---and since its out getting fixed engine starts every time so.....

Something for you to think about....Good luck.

[1Marauder]

We are still waiting to hear what it was... Is it fixed yet?

[Jtrip]

We are still waiting to hear what it was... Is it fixed yet?
I think it is fixed. Hasn't happened since I changed out the new lock switch with the old one. Like I said in a previous post, I replaced the entire driver side power window / door lock bezel with a used one. Started acting weird but I switched the lock switch out and it works fine now. I also traded out the air suspension relay with the starter solenoid relay at the same time (no air bags).