Metco watts link difference

[IndyMerc]

I just bought a used pair of metco's.

what is the difference between the air suspension option and not?

also one of the bushings has a crack on one side not all the way through, should i replace it?

was having a hard time finding which ones if i go ahead with the replacement.

[blazen71]

The ones pictured are air suspension. They have the adjustable bracket for the height adjustment arm. I'd try contacting Metco for the replacement bushing.

[fastblackmerc]

The ones pictured are air suspension. They have the adjustable bracket for the height adjustment arm. I'd try contacting Metco for the replacement bushing.

What he said ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[IndyMerc]

so I lucked out then, my car has air suspension. got em used for 125. Thanks guys!

[justbob]

so I lucked out then, my car has air suspension. got em used for 125. Thanks guys!



All Marauders came with air bags. And yes, you scored big time.

Call Rick or Christie at Metco. They will set you straight.


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[blackhueys]

I have all metco in the back of my marauder if you need an pictures of how it goes together ask away. Not to bad of a job, pulling the tires helps. I did everything on the ground by myself in a day

[IndyMerc]

I was trying to decide on getting the matching upper and lower control arms. will they make as much of a difference? I prefer the look of the heinous upper and lowers, both seem pricey for what you get i suppose Ill end up going with them eventually anyway.

I was looking at the bell crank, or end links, basically the swivel that attaches the watts link bars together and onto the center housing itself that no one has a set name for it seems.

the stock one looks flimsy is there a clear choice for replacement on this?

I noticed it has bearings so that puts it on my replacement hit list automatically.

I am currently waiting to get my housing back from powdercoat so the 4.10's and trutrac with 31 splines can go in. 1" adco swaybar.


your help will be appreciated!

trying to figure out what 8.8 bracing can be done without interfearing with the suspension itself.

cro-mo brace and maybe another added on the keep the rear as stiff as possible since eventually a built 4.6 TT will get dropped in.

ill post updates in my rear end guidance thread when there is one.

[blazen71]

The billet control arms make a huge difference off the line, highly recommend them. The billet Watts links are marginal unless you road race or drive in that fashion.

[musclemerc]

OP,,,You got a deal

[Gerry24]

In regards to the upper and lower control arms. The vendor here Sparta performance sells CHE upper and lower and look great in black. In addition, the price is a lot better than Metcos.


https://cdn3.bigcommerce.com/s-9sqcu442sh/products/112/images/376/Marauder-control-arms-rear__13777.1485977501.500.750 .jpg?c=2

[1Marauder]

Yes you need both! Watts controls tail waggle... Which you can feel when closing door stearnly... Car tail will waggle a little. Install watts link and closing door feels like vault door (or older Mercedes).

Control arms will remove lag from right foot to rear wheels.

Combined it is almost unfathomable they didn't come this way from the factory.

You won't believe the deifference.

Yes do all new bushings while you are at it.

Just my .02...

[IndyMerc]

I was actually looking for a bushing list, with part numbers. I want all Poly, Is out car the same as all crown vic's if I call energy suspension.

Ill get the uppers and lowers too then. Thanks for the input.

[RubberCtyRauder]

get the bushings from Metco

[stevengerard]

here is an old thread, years ago there were lots of discussions about how much the watts link add to the handling of the car. I have yet to change that - but did change the control arms, those made a huge difference going in a straight line

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/archive/index.php/t-22816.html

[1Marauder]

In other terms, after Watts link and rear upper and lower control arms, Car feels 800 pounds lighter, two feet shorter, 4 inches lower, and even 20hp more powerful.

[Chi Stallion]

The metco watts link saved me plenty times from losing control and crashing. In my mind it’s the best investment I ever made for my MM. Don’t forget anytime you replace the watts link replace the center ball joint.

[justbob]

I think the watts link is just about the only thing I haven’t changed LOL


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[IndyMerc]

you mean the bell crank? is that also called the center ball joint? i have been looking for a good one to go with the watts link but I cant find much info on them.

[stevengerard]

I think the watts link is just about the only thing I haven’t changed LOL
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Same here, only thing I haven't touched

[musclemerc]

Haven't touched mine either, I must have 70 pair of control arms out there -0- watts links.... Couldn't do it now even if I wanted to. My 3" exhaust now takes up the space.

[Chi Stallion]

you mean the bell crank? is that also called the center ball joint? i have been looking for a good one to go with the watts link but I cant find much info on them.



Here it goes same seller i bought mines from in 2014


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay. com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F231970484436


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[1Marauder]

Here it goes same seller i bought mines from in 2014


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay. com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F231970484436


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I've never heard of this part.

[IndyMerc]

Thanks Chi! bought and on its way :)

[fastblackmerc]

The metco watts link saved me plenty times from losing control and crashing. In my mind it’s the best investment I ever made for my MM. Don’t forget anytime you replace the watts link replace the center ball joint.


Thanks Chi! bought and on its way :)

I replaced my Watts link with a Metco one about 12 years ago. The center pivot is original and never had a problem with it. There was someone on one of the other panther platform boards selling the stud that the center link attaches too. Was made by APR, was expensive. They claimed there was alot of failed bolts out there... I never heard of any. Be prepared to use alot of leverage to loosen that bolt... like a long breaker bar, a pipe and your feet. Just don't knock the car off the jack stands or lift.

[RubberCtyRauder]

ADTR used to sell theARP bolt for $100. That bolt has like a 250 ft lb or more torque requirement. The only way that bolt will break is if you slide sideways into a curb at a good speed. Never seen one fail in here.

[MyBlackBeasts]

ADTR used to sell theARP bolt for $100. That bolt has like a 250 ft lb or more torque requirement. The only way that bolt will break is if you slide sideways into a curb at a good speed. Never seen one fail in here.


Yep and I'd rather that pivot bolt break than replace with a stronger one and have all that force go in to the axle housing... That would be really 'spensive Lucy!

[fastblackmerc]

Yep and I'd rather that pivot bolt break than replace with a stronger one and have all that force go in to the axle housing... That would be really 'spensive Lucy!

Exactly my thoughts.

[Accumulator]

Here it goes same seller i bought mines from in 2014


https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay. com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F231970484436

I got that one too. No idea about the actual quality, but it does look nice with a well done cad plating.

[IndyMerc]

Here is a side by side for those curious.

I can easily bend the stock ones with my hands, the metco's will hold up a bridge.

[musclemerc]

Easily bend?

[IndyMerc]

I guess I need to hit the gym,

Sorry I couldn't make pretzel's out of them.

[musclemerc]

Sounds like your already there! Bending U channel is no easy task, especially by hand.

[IndyMerc]

I mean it wasn't easy like pouring a cup of coffee,

over all just the fact that I could given the fact its a suspension part for a 4000 pound vehicle I felt it was not very strong.

The metco's are orders of magnitude stronger and stiffer.

[musclemerc]

Send me your old ones along with a reasonable price and I’ll take them off your hands.