SW header install prep time...

[a_d_a_m]

March 24th, weather permitting, will be the day. A buddy with a lift is going to open up his shop for me to get this deal done. Hoping that the ten winters off the roadway have kept the car reasonably non-crusty and I don't snap anything...but it was a Chicago car from '03 to early '08... :alone:

Gaskets. Been doing a ton of reading and I'm seeing that people are reusing their OEM factory exhaust gaskets? Or am I mistaken in this? Seems really odd to me. I was considering going OE style but new. What say you?

Studs. I think I'm gonna use the SW-supplied bolts. Haven't heard any issues lately. Anti-seize on them, yes?

Dipstick. Heard the header revision circa 2010-11 fixed this and I should be able to reuse my OE dipstick?

Tune. Marty will be getting my tuner via USPS tomorrow and setting me up with a tune so I should be all set. Not sure what the turnaround time will be and I'm not trying to rush him. SO: if it doesn't get back to me in time, can I limp the car home with the stock tune (20 freeway miles)? As long as I don't WOT it, I think I should be alright, just looking for confirmation.



I never post pictures of mods, but maybe I'll try and take some pics along the way so as to assist those in the future.

[justbob]

At this point order new factory gaskets, they are cheap thru Tasca.

I prefer using the 10 packs (x2) of 8mm studs/nuts sold in the exhaust isle at Advance. Or splurge for S.S. Their lock nut included has never walked and hanging them just seems easier. You will have to cut a couple down on the passenger side however.

Dipstick is fine but be careful not to snap it off in the block. Been there once and that sucked..

Tune is fine, it will just eventually set a code because the o2’s are farther back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[musclemerc]

I used SS studs. way stronger than bolts
I used stock dipstick but you have to install it with the DS header
The stock gaskets are best because they're layered SS. Should be OK to reuse yours unless you had a previous issue.

Spray cold hardware with a good penetration oil. Should be easy!

[Comin' in Hot]

I have a thread about the studs.... I’ve done two sets and I’ve never had an issue.

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=95070

And get new OEM gaskets.

[a_d_a_m]

At this point order new factory gaskets, they are cheap thru Tasca.
The stock gaskets are best because they're layered SS. Should be OK to reuse yours unless you had a previous issue. Two different opinions... :confused: :D I may just make sure the local dealer has some ready to go at the parts counter and see how they look upon removal. I am pretty sure I replaced the DS gasket when I had that cylinder head off...not 100% sure though.


I prefer using the 10 packs (x2) of 8mm studs/nuts sold in the exhaust isle at Advance.

Dipstick is fine but be careful not to snap it off in the block. Been there once and that sucked..

Tune is fine, it will just eventually set a code because the o2’s are farther back. 10-4 on all of this. I was thinking about those style studs but prefer something SS. As Travis said I would want to go stainless on those.


I used stock dipstick but you have to install it with the DS header Right on. I shortened my stock dipstick 1/4" or so when reinstalling last time, so should go in easy as it was only 30k miles ago.

Thanks for your input thus far, gents.

[a_d_a_m]

I have a thread about the studs.... I’ve done two sets and I’ve never had an issue.

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=95070
Saw those on Amazon...really like 'em. I think crownvic97 also recommended them in another thread, but I wasn't able to find them. They are ordered and should be here within the week. Thanks CIH.

[Zack]

Buy new gaskets
Have a cutoff wheel ready.
Slice the flange between 6&7
It will clear the dipstick no problem
You will need to heat the EGR nut until it is glowing orange.

[a_d_a_m]

Gotcha on that stuff...thanks dude. Will miss your tune.


You will need to heat the EGR nut until it is glowing orange. I assume you mean the EGR nut on the exhaust side? I had that thing loose in 2012 when the motor was apart - maybe I'll get lucky? Did it back then with a breaker bar and a lot of prayer...

[offroadkarter]

I've used bolts and studs, agree studs are the way to go.

New gaskets for sure, you can't reuse an exhaust manifold gasket. You'd get a leak for sure.

I've cruised my car around on the stock tune before, you'll be fine with the one you have on there while waiting. Back when my 04 was NA I asked lidio to send me a revision for the headers and he told me all he normally does is bump the enrichment by 5%, doesn't require any radical changes from the normal tunes.


edit: oh yeah, start soaking the factory studs in something like PB Blaster, Liquid Wrench or Kroil now, and keep doing it until the day of install. When Blackened300a and I did the header install on my 04, I think we might have snapped off 1 stud which easily came out with vice grips.

When I did the engine swap on the 03, I used a propane torch and heated all the studs up, none snapped. I had also soaked those in advance by a couple of days.

[a_d_a_m]

PB is a Cleveland company so it's widely available - haven't seen Kroil anywhere local so will probably go with that. Thanks for the input. All of these posts are giving me the courage to do this!

[blazen71]

I reuse the factory gaskets without issue, but new oem gaskets are cheap insurance. Use the SS stud and nut kits. If you don’t want to cut your DS header flange, get a lokar flexible dipstick.

[Joe Walsh]

I reuse the factory gaskets without issue, but new oem gaskets are cheap insurance. Use the SS stud and nut kits. If you don’t want to cut your DS header flange, get a lokar flexible dipstick.

+1

I reused the (very good quality) OEM mulit-layer S.S. gaskets.
No problems nor leaks at all.
Header nuts were still tight when I pulled the dead 5.0 DOHC 12 years later.

Do NOT use cheapie paper or cork type gaskets that come with many headers.

Pull both front wheels for access through the wheel wells and have plenty of;
- Ratchet extensions and U-joints
- Patience
- Liquid Bandage

[a_d_a_m]

Liquid Bandage The only Liquid Bandage I ever use is beer. I don't suppose that's what you're referring to...?

[Joe Walsh]

The only Liquid Bandage I ever use is beer. I don't suppose that's what you're referring to...?

LOL....

Liquid Bandage is the goop that you put on your cut, bleeding hands to keep the blood off of your new coated headers.
Liquid Courage is Beer
Liquid Pain Killer is Bourbon

[a_d_a_m]

I hope to not need it!

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Does the current SW revision fix the issue of it touching the steering shaft?

[offroadkarter]

Does the current SW revision fix the issue of it touching the steering shaft?

Neither one of my cars ever hit, that was more of a kooks issue wasn't it?

[a_d_a_m]

I think the first revision had issues - Blackened300a mentioned some issues and having to grind: https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1084858&postcount=11

[offroadkarter]

Part of the problem lies in how these cars were slapped together, which is why for years people have said no 2 marauders are really the same.

When Paul did his valve cover install years ago I do not remember him having to jack his engine up, when we did my valve cover install we had to jack the passenger side up to get it in.

I know historically, kooks usually had a rubbing issue as well as a cracking issue.

[blazen71]

I have a set from a group buy back in 07 or 08. Those rub on the steering shaft and I had to grind it down. I cannot speak for the newly built ones.

[justbob]

I have a set from a group buy back in 07 or 08. Those rub on the steering shaft and I had to grind it down. I cannot speak for the newly built ones.



Shims under the engine mounts normally take care of that.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Agent2006]

Kroil you can get directly...

http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInuHw1ryP4QI VhUOGCh2PbwrEEAAYASAAEgJervD_B wE (http://www.kanolabs.com/google/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInuHw1ryP4QI VhUOGCh2PbwrEEAAYASAAEgJervD_B wE)

[a_d_a_m]

Part of the problem lies in how these cars were slapped together, which is why for years people have said no 2 marauders are really the same.

When Paul did his valve cover install years ago I do not remember him having to jack his engine up, when we did my valve cover install we had to jack the passenger side up to get it in. I also had to jack up the P side of the engine to do my valve cover gaskets/O-rings.

[a_d_a_m]

All aboard the broken bolt express!

https://i.imgur.com/UKsobnt.jpg

Started this job yesterday with a friend. Made short order of removing the driver's side manifold. Passenger side, made short order of snapping a bolt.

https://i.imgur.com/WOkI6Fk.jpg

Fought that crap all day, still have to finish it. Got 4 studs left including the broken one. Decided to try and fit the driver's side. Have to say I'm happy with the fitment of the header on that side, anyway. Not thrilled about access to the studs - there is none - holy crap is that a tight squeeze for fat hands! I think I got it tight enough. OE gaskets looked awesome so I cleaned what little needed cleaning and reused. Stock dipstick works with no issues other than the bottom bolt doesn't quite line up anymore.

https://i.imgur.com/6dTxsST.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/BTahypG.jpg

Also, pretty sure I got away with not using the O2 extender on the driver's side. Removed the clip on the rearward sensor and was able to get some real estate. Figure one less connection = one less failure point. Should have taken a picture to show what it looks like - really like the routing if indeed it's correct. Can't see how it's wrong, both are plugged in... ?

Will swing on it next Monday, my next day off. The lift is 30 miles from my house and my buddy and I are both unhappily employed the rest of the week.

[a_d_a_m]

And yes, Zack, I know - MAPP gas

[justbob]

Weld a nut to the stud. When they break it’s normally right at the manifold. The rest of it usually doesn’t give much fuss walking out if you can get the manifold off first. Maybe lift that side of the engine to remove it?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[a_d_a_m]

Weld a nut to the stud. May give that a shot. I think there's almost enough to get two nuts threaded on, tight to each other, and then use the back nut with an open-end wrench to back it out.

My buddy apparently went out after work yesterday and put some hours in. Passenger manifold is off, 3 studs broke. Gasket looked pretty trash so I will have to run out to O-O-O-O'Reilly's and pick a new one up before we install the new one.

[crownvic97]

Looks like you are making pretty good progress, keep it up!

[a_d_a_m]

Well, this last bit wasn't anything I did. :D Lucky to have a friend who owns an old building with a lift and genuinely seems to enjoy working on projects I'd be annoyed/frustrated with.

Will try to get some pictures of the O2 sensor wiring - not sure why the extenders are actually needed unless I'm (seriously) missing something. Anyone who can remove a clip can make these connections without running an extender. Front sensor is plugged in as shown, back one is in the pipe behind the cat before the H.

[1stMerc]

I didn't need the extenders either. But one thing you might want to consider is welding in some bungs in case you decide to install a wideband o2 sensor in the future. No room to do it after headers are installed.

[a_d_a_m]

I’m thinking that will probably void the warranty on the headers.

[a_d_a_m]

Being a pack rat pays off. I had these parts laying around from 2012 and SOMEHOW was able to lay my hands on them...which is a good thing, because NONE of the FLAPS had the correct exhaust manifold gasket in stock, and my local Ford dealer thinks the Marauder is a 2V car.

https://i.imgur.com/wnMNELQ.jpg

[crownvic97]

Being a pack rat pays off. I had these parts laying around from 2012 and SOMEHOW was able to lay my hands on them...which is a good thing, because NONE of the FLAPS had the correct exhaust manifold gasket in stock, and my local Ford dealer thinks the Marauder is a 2V car.

https://i.imgur.com/wnMNELQ.jpg

I always put spare stuff like this away thinking, “someday I may need this.” Hasn’t happened yet but I imagine it’s a great feeling! :D

[a_d_a_m]

I've still got NIB parts laying around from my '89 LeBaron. Sold that car in 2003!

[a_d_a_m]

https://i.imgur.com/eWsw3np.jpg?1

Headers are in.
3 bolts on the passenger side snapped, and required a lot of cuss words to free.
AC still needs to be bolted in before a road test.

[a_d_a_m]

Buttoned up and road tested.
25 miles, no check engine lights.

Driving this car on a stock tune is THE WORST. Pretty sure I found a picture of the guy who handled shift points.
https://thumbs.gfycat.com/GleamingAdorableBlackfly-max-1mb.gif

Anyway, no drone, pretty quiet at idle. Hell, it almost sounds stock. Cruises quiet, too. When you lay the pedal to it, it really does get loud though. I like it overall, but now I'm thinking I might go with some new mufflers.

First things third, a tune. That'll happen Friday, I hope.




Would I do headers again, knowing what a pain in the ass my experience was? No.

But I'm glad I got in there. The PS exhaust manifold gasket was trash and would have failed eventually.

[Agent2006]

Nice! Anything you know now

that you wish you knew at the start?

[a_d_a_m]

Yes. Installing headers is not my strong suit. :D

[1Marauder]

Great Job! Great write up, and thanks for photos!

A slight adaptation:

Liquid Bandage is the goop that you put on your cut, bleeding hands to keep the blood off of your new coated headers.
Liquid Courage is Beer
Liquid Pain Killer is Bourbon... AKA "Swing Oil" when golfing, or "Aiming Fluid" when golfing or hunting.

[a_d_a_m]

Hey, y'all, one thing I forgot to do when I was under the car was measure the starter and get an idea of what sort of real estate I had. I want to do a starter wrap/blanket.

Has anyone installed one and if so, can you recommend one that fits well that doesn't break the bank?

(or, at least tell me approximately what dimensions I'll need so I don't have to jack up the car just to measure?)

[justbob]

I just grabbed the one off the shelf at Advance. They only stock one and it’s universal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[Joe Walsh]

I put on a DEI starter blanket..... from SUMMIT Racing (IIRC)
It had Velcro strips built onto it so I didn't need to wrap bailing wire around it.
It was a 'Universal' / one size fits all heat blanket.

http://designengineering.com/versa-shield-starter-shield/

BUT!
I put the heat blanket on the starter after taking off the OEM manifolds and before installing the Kooks headers.

[justbob]

I put on a DEI starter blanket..... from SUMMIT Racing (IIRC)
It had Velcro strips built onto it so I didn't need to wrap bailing wire around it.
It was a 'Universal' / one size fits all heat blanket.

http://designengineering.com/versa-shield-starter-shield/

BUT!
I put the heat blanket on the starter after taking off the OEM manifolds and before installing the Kooks headers.



I believe mine was DEI also.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[offroadkarter]

I ended up buying some generic one on amazon that had good reviews but it does use 2 giant metal bands to keep it on. So far so good.

The red car which I had the headers coated before install, I am still on the original starter. Black car has uncoated headers which I think is why the non-original starter died.

[crownvic97]

Do the SW headers kill starters? I don’t have a blanket on mine but I’ve only put about 3,000 miles on it since the rebuild.

[a_d_a_m]

Thanks for the input, y'all.

I'd texted Zack about this after posting, he said not to sweat it too much, so that's what I'll probably do.

[musclemerc]

I wouldn't worry about it either.
Which would be worse, heat from a set of LT's or water damage from a wet blanket?

[a_d_a_m]

I wouldn't worry about it either.
Which would be worse, heat from a set of LT's or water damage from a wet blanket? My car doesn't get wet other than car washes, but that's a highly valid concern.