Will be swapping in a built 99 Cobra engine.

[JBeezy]

So, it’s getting close to time to start swapping out my stock 67k mile engine to a built cobra engine. Said engine has a Steele crank, h beam rods, and dss pistons. Block is suppose to be a teskid block as well. Exhaust ports have been ported on the heads and that’s about it.

For those that don’t know, I broke a ring land in cylinder 3 last year and it’s been sitting every since.

I guess I said all that to say, point me in the right direction for the best instructions and/or details on what needs to be done for this to work in the Marauder. Thanks in advance. A few pics I took tonight.

While doing some research it appears I may have to use the oil pan from the Marauder and possibly the timing cover. I am doing some research myself, but I’m mainly seeing 03 Cobra swap write ups.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190418/f25d3d1cacc9fbf828aa20c15f168f 4d.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190418/34d73718d643b4ba9a4d2ef2ef2e94 61.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190418/213476aad19e510953e906664c29f9 fc.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190418/85548e19050a202a8280a8258af09c f7.jpg

The intake from the engine

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190418/ff9603711eafb077336cb5c59fddb9 e4.jpg


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[crownvic97]

I can tell you the timing cover and oil pan are Marauder specific for sure

[RubberCtyRauder]

So is the oil pick up tube

[musclemerc]

There is one bolt on the MM timing cover that wont get used

[JBeezy]

Thanks guys. I think I also saw something about a flex plate possibly being needed. Can anyone shed light on that?


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[Joe Walsh]

Looks like a TEKSID block....3 pronounced braces cast on each side of the valley and square shaped cross hatching pattern in the middle.

(WAP blocks have diamond shaped cross hatching.)

Forged cranks use an 8 bolt flexplate vs. 6 bolt for OEM cast cranks.
I have a non SFI rated 8 bolt flexplate...never installed.

[musclemerc]

I have the correct flex plate part number

[Zack]

There is one bolt on the MM timing cover that wont get used

I believe you are thinking of an IRON block.

[JBeezy]

I have the correct flex plate part number



I want to say I read where a guy said he used one from a specific year f150. 168 tooth I believe. Wasn’t expensive either


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[justbob]

I want to say I read where a guy said he used one from a specific year f150. 168 tooth I believe. Wasn’t expensive either


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Mid 2000’s E150 or F150 5.4 IIRC. 164 tooth 8 bolt


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[JBeezy]

Mid 2000’s E150 or F150 5.4 IIRC. 164 tooth 8 bolt


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That’s it. Thanks Bob. Can you tell me if the diameter is suppose to be 14.25 O.D?


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[justbob]

That’s it. Thanks Bob. Can you tell me if the diameter is suppose to be 14.25 O.D?

Sorry no Jordan. But anyone with a stock flexplate can confirm as it’s the same as stock. I think I thru out my original.

I believe the differences are mostly in bolt pattern to the converter and possibly the offset. I gambled on EBay for like $38 shipped and scored a used one that I never even used LOL. I gave it to LowbuckMM and it bolted up just fine on his. I think it was an ‘05 E150 or 250. Try to confirm first.
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[JBeezy]

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I did. Looked it up in advance auto website. That’s what it gave me. I was just trying to confirm the O.D was correct.

Also, is there something that has to be done to the oil filter location?


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[decipha]

thats the wrong flex afaik they use the larger converter, been there done that

prw makes an 8 bolt small converter pattern flex plate for the 10.5" gm torque converter pattern. Simply wallow it out slightly with a drill and its perfect everytime. Ive done it numerous times.


PRW 1828111 Ford 4.6L 92-06 SFI 164T Steel Flexplate 8 Bolt Crank

link

http://forum.efidynotuning.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=1134

[musclemerc]

This is what I used on my build too. I've read where some re drilled and some had to open holes. Mine fit the PI convertor no problem.

[decipha]

back in december of 2015 i met the main engineer at PRW and informed him of the issue. He assured me that 10.625" pattern would be added so may have by now.

[justbob]

thats the wrong flex afaik they use the larger converter, been there done that

prw makes an 8 bolt small converter pattern flex plate for the 10.5" gm torque converter pattern. Simply wallow it out slightly with a drill and its perfect everytime. Ive done it numerous times.


PRW 1828111 Ford 4.6L 92-06 SFI 164T Steel Flexplate 8 Bolt Crank

link

http://forum.efidynotuning.com/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=1134



You are correct. I contacted my friend I gave it to and it turns out he used it with an aftermarket converter.

Sorry for the confusion J!


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[JBeezy]

Thanks guys for providing this information. I found a post that addresses what to do with the oil filter.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190423/28604c8bbf8adbe9f0877dc0e066e1 3f.jpg


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[JBeezy]

I’m going to start removing the engine this weekend. Any tips on removing the existing and installing the new engine?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190503/7fd55328fe567c0bee85579dcdd541 f6.jpg


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[justbob]

Remove wiper cowl. Personally I like to remove the engine with everything attached. Harness, blower, headers, everything besides the A/C and P/S, others guys differ.

Then I transfer everything over to the new and drop it in and reconnect. Two stands make this very simple. These engines are a breeze to swap.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190503/c3f188003795527e2219d36d383ff9 db.jpg


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[Joe Walsh]

Remove wiper cowl. Personally I like to remove the engine with everything attached. Harness, blower, headers, everything besides the A/C and P/S, others guys differ.

Then I transfer everything over to the new and drop it in and reconnect. Two stands make this very simple. These engines are a breeze to swap.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190503/c3f188003795527e2219d36d383ff9 db.jpg


^^^^^^^^^ THIS! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Yank it outta there!


http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae326/JoeJWalsh/20170107_134231_zpsmlag6uwu.jp g (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/JoeJWalsh/media/20170107_134231_zpsmlag6uwu.jp g.html)


http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae326/JoeJWalsh/20170107_134206_zpstc7hhwgf.jp g (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/JoeJWalsh/media/20170107_134206_zpstc7hhwgf.jp g.html)

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae326/JoeJWalsh/20170107_134243_zpsohkucnhl.jp g (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/JoeJWalsh/media/20170107_134243_zpsohkucnhl.jp g.html)

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae326/JoeJWalsh/20170107_134213_zpsvnzo5vpi.jp g (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/JoeJWalsh/media/20170107_134213_zpsvnzo5vpi.jp g.html)

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae326/JoeJWalsh/20170107_143723_zpsaw0yz2lp.jp g (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/JoeJWalsh/media/20170107_143723_zpsaw0yz2lp.jp g.html)

[justbob]

Lol I thought I was a rarity. Especially by throwing a strap under the intake and simply plucking it.. [emoji16]


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[JBeezy]

Good deal. I’ll look into that Saturday. Also plan on sending the Procharger to Jon Bond for new seals unless anyone disagrees.


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[blazen71]

I’ve used Jon Bond for a rebuild and a D1SC upgrade. Each time I had to send it back to get things right. In the end it’s all good but his lead times are terrible and sometime loses track when it comes to the details. My $.02.

[justbob]

Don’t even get me started on Jon Bond! It took FIVE WEEKS (maybe longer) and numerous emails, calls, and messages on my part to finally get them to first FIND it, then to finally look it over! It took another two weeks to get a check for what he offered me for parts on my determined junk blower..

I was told I had to call everyday to see if it was looked at?? He never returns calls even if you leave messages with his staff. I told him I left several emails and he says “I have thousands of emails so I would never see it”.

He blames everything on his move to a new building. I could keep going.

And yes, this all took place in the last couple of months.

Robert at Brute Speed took VERY good care of me on a new F1-A and I had it like four days at almost $4-500 less than anyone else. I’m not sure if he rebuilds them or not but maybe give him a call to at least ask or see if he recommends anyone?




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[Joe Walsh]

Lol I thought I was a rarity. Especially by throwing a strap under the intake and simply plucking it.. [emoji16]


The first time that I pulled the motor I bolted a chain, corner-to-corner, onto the cylinder head exhaust manifold studs.
Had to stuff shop towels everywhere to keep the chain from gouging everything on the engine, plus the engine kept twisting around. What a PITA!


I’ve used Jon Bond for a rebuild and a D1SC upgrade. Each time I had to send it back to get things right. In the end it’s all good but his lead times are terrible and sometime loses track when it comes to the details. My $.02.


Don’t even get me started on Jon Bond! It took FIVE WEEKS (maybe longer) and numerous emails, calls, and messages on my part to finally get them to first FIND it, then to finally look it over! It took another two weeks to get a check for what he offered me for parts on my determined junk blower..

I was told I had to call everyday to see if it was looked at?? He never returns calls even if you leave messages with his staff. I told him I left several emails and he says “I have thousands of emails so I would never see it”.

He blames everything on his move to a new building. I could keep going.



................. :hmmm:.....sounds like the experience I had with a previous vendor from Florida....:shake:............ Oh...nevermind!

Good luck this weekend with the engine swap!

[JBeezy]

The first time that I pulled the motor I bolted a chain, corner-to-corner, onto the cylinder head exhaust manifold studs.
Had to stuff shop towels everywhere to keep the chain from gouging everything on the engine, plus the engine kept twisting around. What a PITA!





................. :hmmm:.....sounds like the experience I had with a previous vendor from Florida....:shake:............ Oh...nevermind!

Good luck this weekend with the engine swap!



Thanks. The plan is to start unbolting everything and I would love to get it out ASAP. I’m going to try the method described above. Leave harnesses in place, remove compressor and power steering pump and pull it.

As far as John bond, I did send my buddies powerdyne XB-1A to him and I agree it did take over a month or so to get it back. Maybe two. The repair seems ok so far, but his quoted turn around time was waaaay off


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[RubberCtyRauder]

My Jon Bond experience was 10 weeks or so after being quoted 4 weeks And he left the snout bolts loose which leaked oil all over, but Mo's made it right. I won't use again. I'll buy new before sending to him...he did do awesome powder coat though.

[JBeezy]

The Jon bond stories are disappointing. I thought the price was right, but Geesh this worries me now.


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[MyBlackBeasts]

................. :hmmm:.....sounds like the experience I had with a previous vendor from Florida....:shake:............ Oh...nevermind!





:rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl::rofl: :rofl:

[MOTOWN]

I’m going to start removing the engine this weekend. Any tips on removing the existing and installing the new engine?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190503/7fd55328fe567c0bee85579dcdd541 f6.jpg


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Looking good!

[JBeezy]

I know I’m going to need exhaust. I ran across this kooks header with off-road x pipe for less than $700. Does this look like it would work? I’m in Alabama and we don’t have emissions testing. If not this, what do you recommend? I still have stock exhaust except for deleted rear cats.

https://wheelwell.com/shop/kooks-custom-headers/exhaust/x-pipes/off-road-x-pipe--exhaust-crossover-pipe--12003100?year=2003&make=Mercury&model=Marauder&submodel=Base


Engine is out. Pulled it just as you guys suggested. Wasn’t bad at all. Will get it on a stand next week and start swapping everything over

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190505/e7a8fd11a52e5d7c3056c60fa50f55 fc.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190505/c50188d90c12bd6bc8f99859ff6c1f f5.jpg




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[JBeezy]

I didn’t want to start a new thread so I’m posting here. I have a few questions. I have ordered a set of SW headers and plan on ordering an x pipe and exhaust this week. The questions I have are:

What is the best place to shop the o-rings that sit on the port behind the water pump? The metal tube that runs under the intake connects to it. The dealer wants $18 ea for them. Crazy to me

For those with SW headers, can they be installed while the engine is out and set in with the engine?
If so, will the steering shaft be an issue?

Also concerning the headers, can I use the factory dipstick? I want to say I read something about possibly cutting the header flange for this to work

Thanks in advance. That’s all I can think of at the moment



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[blazen71]

Engine can be installed with headers on engine. Dipstick is your call. Some cut the flange so tube doesn't have to be removed and others use a Lokar flexible dipstick. I went the Lokar route for the ease.

[JBeezy]

Engine can be installed with headers on engine. Dipstick is your call. Some cut the flange so tube doesn't have to be removed and others use a Lokar flexible dipstick. I went the Lokar route for the ease.



Well the engine is out the car so I can install the dipstick afterwards. Now I understand why they cut it.

Do you know if the steering shaft goes between any of the header pipes? Thanks


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[blazen71]

Do you know if the steering shaft goes between any of the header pipes? Thanks


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It doesn't

[Joe Walsh]

Well the engine is out the car so I can install the dipstick afterwards. Now I understand why they cut it.

Do you know if the steering shaft goes between any of the header pipes? Thanks



It doesn't

It will be easier to install the engine with the SW headers bolted on, if you disconnect and move the steering shaft out of the way.
It may be possible to leave the shaft connected, but with Kooks headers I found it necessary to disconnect the steering shaft.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae326/JoeJWalsh/20170107_143723_zpsaw0yz2lp.jp g (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/JoeJWalsh/media/20170107_143723_zpsaw0yz2lp.jp g.html)

Looks good so far!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190505/c50188d90c12bd6bc8f99859ff6c1f f5.jpg

Also: Gotta love that friggin' anti-freeze!
No matter how much you drain and tilt the engine....it ALWAYS pukes out another quart or more of that sickly sweet, slippery coolant....:mad:

[justbob]

IIRC the shaft is fine left in place. If I were you I’d cut down all the studs on the passenger side so you have the option of removing it later if need be. I don’t recall which ones won’t clear so I just cut them all.


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[JBeezy]

It will be easier to install the engine with the SW headers bolted on, if you disconnect and move the steering shaft out of the way.
It may be possible to leave the shaft connected, but with Kooks headers I found it necessary to disconnect the steering shaft.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae326/JoeJWalsh/20170107_143723_zpsaw0yz2lp.jp g (http://s984.photobucket.com/user/JoeJWalsh/media/20170107_143723_zpsaw0yz2lp.jp g.html)

Looks good so far!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190505/c50188d90c12bd6bc8f99859ff6c1f f5.jpg

Also: Gotta love that friggin' anti-freeze!
No matter how much you drain and tilt the engine....it ALWAYS pukes out another quart or more of that sickly sweet, slippery coolant....:mad:



Thanks Joe. I got it on a stand a few days ago and I tilted it tonight to remove the oil pan and even more antifreeze drained out. A lot more. I’m in the process of swapping everything over. Had to clean the nasty timing cover. The seal on the input shaft of the Procharger was pretty much resting against the pulley and causing a major leak.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190510/a713341487a7b15c75a75fbe599b26 de.jpg








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[JBeezy]

IIRC the shaft is fine left in place. If I were you I’d cut down all the studs on the passenger side so you have the option of removing it later if need be. I don’t recall which ones won’t clear so I just cut them all.


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When you say cut down the studs, how much would you suggest? I assume this is in case I need to remove the header one day. Will make it easier...




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[blazen71]

I had the same issue with my Procharger

[justbob]

When you say cut down the studs, how much would you suggest? I assume this is in case I need to remove the header one day. Will make it easier...




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Just leave enough meat on the nut end for the nut and a couple of extra threads. The middle (smooth) will stop at the head and accommodate the flange, so like I said, just enough for a nut and little extra.


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[justbob]

I had the same issue with my Procharger



When my F1-A locked up it looked just like yours. I ended up running it dry from a small leak I hadn’t noticed and spun the front bearing in turn locking up the unit and destroying it.


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[blazen71]

Ouch. Luckily I caught it before catastrophic failure.

[JBeezy]

Mine has been leaking for a while but I never knew that is where it was leaking from. Knowing this o checked it every other time I drove the car, same with my oil. Idk why but better safe than sorry.

What did you do? Replace the seal yourself or send it off?


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[blazen71]

Got a full rebuild at Jon Bond

[JBeezy]

Got a full rebuild at Jon Bond



Yea I bit the bullit and sent mine on to him too. It didn’t need a full rebuild just seals but what the hell. How’s yours holding up so far? As I understand, Prochargers are notorious for leaking


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[blazen71]

It’s good but I don’t have many miles on it yet

[burt ragio]

How many miles did you all average before the seal started leaking ?

[blazen71]

It was leaking when I got it with 50k miles. I have no idea when it started

[Marauderjack]

My experience is all Prochargers leak almost immediately.......some worse than others!!:shake:

[JBeezy]

My experience is all Prochargers leak almost immediately.......some worse than others!!:shake:



Well that doesn’t make me feel good. I could have ordered the seals and replaced them myself for that matter. [emoji23]


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[Marauderjack]

I had 3 rebuilds and one brand new P1SC from ProCharger in 176K miles!!:rolleyes:

All of 'em leaked a little and I thought the last one (the new one) was not leaking but Dave found out differently once he got the car home......it leaked at the output shaft seal and into the plumbing I think??:confused:

Hopefully Jon Bond uses better stuff than ProCharger does??:beer:

[JBeezy]

I was told the average rebuild mileage was around 60 - 80k miles. I’ve only had mine on for 17k miles. [emoji2363][emoji2375]


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[JimP]

My procharger has about 45k miles on it. A tip I got from a local engine builder here was to get the procharger hot after its oil change and open the fill hole. This would cause some pressure to escape due to the heat/expansion, you can hear the pssstttttt. Seal it up again and as the unit cools there would be negative pressure / vacuum. Doing this prevents internal pressure on the seals, it seems to work because I have no leaks and neither do any of his customers. I don't know maybe just lucky.

[JBeezy]

My procharger has about 45k miles on it. A tip I got from a local engine builder here was to get the procharger hot after its oil change and open the fill hole. This would cause some pressure to escape due to the heat/expansion, you can hear the pssstttttt. Seal it up again and as the unit cools there would be negative pressure / vacuum. Doing this prevents internal pressure on the seals, it seems to work because I have no leaks and neither do any of his customers. I don't know maybe just lucky.



Thanks for sharing. It actually makes sense to me. I will definitely give this a try.


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[Marauderjack]

I tried that before with no luck!!:shake:

If oil leaks out under pressure air will likely leak in under partial vacuum but you may be luckier than I was??:confused:

I even vented the dipstick plug once to keep it from building internal pressure.......didn't work either so I just let it leak!!:argue:

Funny thing is it never leaked enough to be off the plastic piece on the dipstick between 5K mile changes but it sure made a mess!!:eek:

[JBeezy]

She’s about ready to go in. Need to do the rear cooling mod. Then the fun begins.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190520/464257b459b2b1231d1a48bfc754dc 7c.jpg


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[Joe Walsh]

Engine porn....I love it!!
Good luck with the install.

[JBeezy]

Engine porn....I love it!!

Good luck with the install.



Thanks. Hopefully the install will be a little bit easier than I imagine. Especially with the headers installed. That’s new to me with long tubes. I still need to buy a new water pump.


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[JBeezy]

Opinions from this group, will 2.5” from the headers back be ok or is it a definite that I upgrade to 3” on out? What you guys do? I know I could search and find a lot of opinions but I’d like to hear from this small group


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[justbob]

2 1/2” is fine.

After all, S.W. Sells the header and leads that bolt up to the tiny H pipe and that combo works fine.


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[JBeezy]

2 1/2” is fine.

After all, S.W. Sells the header and leads that bolt up to the tiny H pipe and that combo works fine.


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Cool. We plan on replacing from the header the h pipe with an x and 2 1/2” to the mufflers. I still have stock mufflers which I read flow pretty good. I actually like the Mello sound, but if they restrict flow I’ll replace


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[JBeezy]

Well the engine is back in. Time to bolt everything back up and start welding in the the x pipe. Even got the Procharger back from Jon Bond yesterday.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/cf5a88de14cd2ea3b18a4daab9984b ff.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/940e466ec0e543f3c6f61f6b1b486d 6a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/6da2970af46c80bcdb5af03c18ae9d 8f.jpg

Now I have to make the decision on which pulley Im going to install on the D1. Any suggestions??

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/e048a7edf1d7fd756cf6d03b014e06 db.jpg




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[justbob]

Those pulleys are cute! [emoji12]


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[JBeezy]

Those pulleys are cute! [emoji12]


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[emoji23][emoji23]. What pulley are you running? I think I’m going with the 3.60 anyway.


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[justbob]

[emoji23][emoji23]. What pulley are you running? I think I’m going with the 3.60 anyway.


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44 tooth upper (4.41”)
80 tooth lower (8”)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/fe0966b3d0aa60d2008cf277a4f484 fc.jpg



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[cer0413]

44 tooth upper (4.41”)
80 tooth lower (8”)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/fe0966b3d0aa60d2008cf277a4f484 fc.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProSheesh!!!!!!!

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

[JBeezy]

44 tooth upper (4.41”)
80 tooth lower (8”)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/fe0966b3d0aa60d2008cf277a4f484 fc.jpg



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How much boost does that make? [emoji23][emoji23]


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[musclemerc]

Well the engine is back in. Time to bolt everything back up and start welding in the the x pipe. Even got the Procharger back from Jon Bond yesterday.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/cf5a88de14cd2ea3b18a4daab9984b ff.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/940e466ec0e543f3c6f61f6b1b486d 6a.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/6da2970af46c80bcdb5af03c18ae9d 8f.jpg

Now I have to make the decision on which pulley Im going to install on the D1. Any suggestions??

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190602/e048a7edf1d7fd756cf6d03b014e06 db.jpg




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Not telling ya how to do your build but, a 3 bolt timing cover and an 8 rib swap should have been on the table.

PLEASE tell me that's not how you plan to run your pcv setup. How did your old engine blow?

[justbob]

How much boost does that make? [emoji23][emoji23]


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I shift at 6,000 and it’s already at 26#s. Street tune I let a 50MM TIAL with a 5# spring act as a wastegate to dump the excess boost to a more 93 pump friendly 20#’s.

I have no clue what she could produce at 7,000+?

But no belt slip! [emoji6]


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[JBeezy]

Not telling ya how to do your build but, a 3 bolt timing cover and an 8 rib swap should have been on the table.



PLEASE tell me that's not how you plan to run your pcv setup. How did your old engine blow?



That’s how I’ve been running it. Ran it this way for at least 3-4 years. The engine hit the rev limiter and leaned out on cyl 3 I’m assuming and broke the ring land. That’s why I’m here for pointers. It was recommended years ago to get a oil separator so I did. What do you suggest. I’m here for it


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[blazen71]

Something along these lines.....
https://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=25641
.

[JBeezy]

Something along these lines.....
https://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=25641
.



Thanks for sharing. Did you do this mod on yours? I’ve been away from the stock setup so long I can’t remember what ran where. Any other recommendations? Also, if I did this mod , would I still run the oil separator? Thanks in advance. [emoji23]


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[musclemerc]

That’s how I’ve been running it. Ran it this way for at least 3-4 years. The engine hit the rev limiter and leaned out on cyl 3 I’m assuming and broke the ring land. That’s why I’m here for pointers. It was recommended years ago to get a oil separator so I did. What do you suggest. I’m here for it


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Something along these lines.....
https://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=25641
.

If the breather element is left intact at the DS cam cover the pcv system is no longer functional as your pulling unmetered air into the engine.(which can cause a lean condition)
On a centri and turbo setup pcv is forgotten by most. From idle to 3000rpm the car is N/A and vacuum is present . Above 3000 your making boost through the intake and with a stock Marauder pcv valve (which isn't intended for boost) it will allow the boost pressure to enter the PS cam cover.

The post Blazed71 put up is good but I would make a few changes to it as newer and better parts are now available.

1) no need to gut the OEM pcv or swap the inlet for the pcv location to the DS cam cover. (03 cobras have a push in pcv valve)
)2 Get a pcv valve for a 2008-2010 GT500 it will screw into the stock location no problem with one exception. Its too tall. So cut it down to length with a hack saw
3)add a one way check valve at the stock location on the intake (yes you can keep your catch can if that's what you want to call it ;))

This setup will yield a cleaner look and will out perform Embassy's old setup. If you want to get fancy you could get a wiring pig tail and wire the heater element for fun. The Gt500 pcv has one built in

I have no doubts you were sending boost into the engine as you have presented it.

Research the 8 rib swap, and if a 3 bolt cover isn't in your future at least get a single bolt thumprr tensioner.. They're expensive but well worth it!!

Sorry for the interruptions...… Please carry on……..

[JBeezy]

If the breather element is left intact at the DS cam cover the pcv system is no longer functional as your pulling unmetered air into the engine.(which can cause a lean condition)

On a centri and turbo setup pcv is forgotten by most. From idle to 3000rpm the car is N/A and vacuum is present . Above 3000 your making boost through the intake and with a stock Marauder pcv valve (which isn't intended for boost) it will allow the boost pressure to enter the PS cam cover.



The post Blazed71 put up is good but I would make a few changes to it as newer and better parts are now available.



1) no need to gut the OEM pcv or swap the inlet for the pcv location to the DS cam cover. (03 cobras have a push in pcv valve)

)2 Get a pcv valve for a 2008-2010 GT500 it will screw into the stock location no problem with one exception. Its too tall. So cut it down to length with a hack saw

3)add a one way check valve at the stock location on the intake (yes you can keep your catch can if that's what you want to call it ;))



This setup will yield a cleaner look and will out perform Embassy's old setup. If you want to get fancy you could get a wiring pig tail and wire the heater element for fun. The Gt500 pcv has one built in



I have no doubts you were sending boost into the engine as you have presented it.



Research the 8 rib swap, and if a 3 bolt cover isn't in your future at least get a single bolt thumprr tensioner.. They're expensive but well worth it!!



Sorry for the interruptions...… Please carry on……..



No need to apologize. I welcome any help I can get. I’ll look into getting the parts this week. If you will, provide some more detail on the size of check valve and if I read correctly, the GT500 pcv will go in place of the driver side valve.

There’s two listed on rockauto. Which or does it matter?

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190603/1f2aa141413a4d3e27f43fa1abd04c e8.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190603/33bdeb56399d986e96201d43d2261b 48.jpg


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[musclemerc]

order the blue Motorcraft.

Mods needed on the pcv valve: With a dremmel narrow down the plastic ring on the neck of the pcv valve. Use the stock 90* off the OEM Marauder pcv as a test to how much material to remove please remember to use a heat gun to warm the OEM 90* and get a tight fit. once the OEM 90* slips over the ring cut it down to OEM length with a hack saw.

As far as a check valve 5/8" is the diameter: order 2 of these one for each side
https://www.ebay.com/i/291327163877?chn=ps

So from the PS cam cover it will go as follows:
GT500 pcv valve - JLT catch can - one way check valve - upper intake

DS will have a check valve and a feed from the SC

[JBeezy]

I have two simple questions I’d think.

1) where in the h*ll does the ground strap from the back of the engine tie down on the firewall? My buddy helped me remove the engine so I didn’t remove it myself

2) there’s a bracket that holds the starter cable in order to route it back up into the engine bay. It has a stud on it, what should be terminated on that stud?

So close to startup. Got everything else in place, just trying to decide on what to do with the exhaust.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190610/aa9c74b299d851c9d9dba880e6b476 32.jpg




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[03Merc]

Ground Strap on firewall.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190613/4594c69c1730ac3a744dfb1f2d6115 da.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190613/37564a7ee5ede5d3073f5bde060672 ce.jpg


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[JBeezy]

Ground Strap on firewall.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190613/4594c69c1730ac3a744dfb1f2d6115 da.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190613/37564a7ee5ede5d3073f5bde060672 ce.jpg


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Thanks for posting that pic. Believe it or not, I was standing there looking at the engine bay and saw where I had a small bolt threaded in a hole in that location and I was like, “it can’t be!” This is the first time I’ve ever had the wiper cowl off so I wasn’t sure if that was for the cowl or what. Right now that’s about where I have it located. I’ll take a pic tomorrow.


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[Fastbob]

Bracket on the + battery cable attaches to the back of the RH cylinder head.

[JBeezy]

Bracket on the + battery cable attaches to the back of the RH cylinder head.



Funny


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[JBeezy]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190614/a8e2cd887365bf69487e54a00ba413 ce.jpg


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[JBeezy]

Pvc system installed as suggested.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190618/0350f8a3948dcbb4aac4ad2c362197 d0.jpg


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[03Merc]

Pvc system installed as suggested.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190618/0350f8a3948dcbb4aac4ad2c362197 d0.jpg


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Can I send You some black zip ties!? Haha (:


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[JBeezy]

Can I send You some black zip ties!? Haha (:


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I have some. I just put the yellow on for the heck of it. Lol!!


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[Lowndex]

Hey Marty,

Do you need me to tell you where to put it?

Oh Lord, I wonder what this one will cost me?

[JBeezy]

Hey Marty,

Do you need me to tell you where to put it?

Oh Lord, I wonder what this one will cost me?



??


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[cer0413]

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23]

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[musclemerc]

Look at the arrows on the check valves to verify they are functioning as designed
PCV side: the arrow should point towards the intake
DS: arrow should point towards the engine

If you set them correctly once you get into boost the PCV side will draw closed (preventing boost from entering the engine).

The GT500 PCV valve will catch anything that gets past the check valve. (fail safe)

The DS check valve will stop any oil blown from the engine from entering into the CAI track

The system is correct and should perform well.....

BTW your cooling mod hose is too long.

[justbob]

BTW your cooling mod hose is too long.


Good catch. Probably a wicked air trap as well.



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[JBeezy]

Look at the arrows on the check valves to verify they are functioning as designed
PCV side: the arrow should point towards the intake
DS: arrow should point towards the engine

If you set them correctly once you get into boost the PCV side will draw closed (preventing boost from entering the engine).

The GT500 PCV valve will catch anything that gets past the check valve. (fail safe)

The DS check valve will stop any oil blown from the engine from entering into the CAI track

The system is correct and should perform well.....

BTW your cooling mod hose is too long.



Thanks musclemerc. I did verify the check valves were correct during installation and the orientation matches what you suggested. I do agree that hose is too long. I have plans to shorten it before adding coolant and starting the engine. Didn’t think about it being an air trap, but it’s just simply too long. Thanks for the help


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[musclemerc]

Put the cowl on before you cut it.

[JBeezy]

What oil do you guys recommend for engine break in. I’m familiar with some type of non detergent oil but wanted to check with the pros before doing so. Not even sure if that even relevant in engines of today’s time. I used havoline when I built the 347 in my Mustang.


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