Meziere Electric Water Pump Installed

[FordNut]

For sure a great idea! Picked up 12 hp and 8 ft-lb tq at the peaks, but the real story is at lower rpms. At 3500 rpm, picked up approximately 20 hp and 35 ft-lb tq. I'm anxious to get a dyno test/tune with the t/c locked to see what it does at the very low end, like 1500 or so. That's coming soon, when I change the MAF sensor.

I got the anodized pulley, and the wiring is pretty much hidden, so you don't really notice that it's not stock unless you look closely.

Since I have the underdrive crank pulley, it required a shorter belt, Gates part # 60905. With stock pulleys the OEM belt works ok.

Tested it in rush hour traffic, ATL I-285 northside at 3:30. Gridlock and 94 degrees. No cooling issues hatsoever. Talked to many more electric water pump users since making the decision and got nothing but good reviews. I agree!

Will post pictures later.
edit: try here for a pic:
http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/showphoto.php/photo/3539
edit: forgot to say, 297 RWHP now!

[TAF]

I was fortunate enough to see my buddy Brian...AND his Dyno sheets this afternoon.

Come on UPS, Come on UPS....

[tmac1337]

The one thing I do not like about this site is that I can't keep money in my pocket. Here we go again. Next a water pump.

[Fourth Horseman]

The one thing I do not like about this site is that I can't keep money in my pocket. Here we go again. Next a water pump.

I hear that. And for financially challenged people, like me, it makes keeping focus on your primary upgrade objectives tough. In the mean time I live vicariously through everybody else's Marauders.
:rock:

[Warpath]

Does this pump have an idler pulley? There was one manufacturer of a electric pump (Meziere I think) which had some quality issues with the pulley breaking off. That was a little while ago and they may have it fixed by now. But, I just wanted you give you a heads up to keep an eye on it for a little while. This makes me want to get one too!

[stevengerard]

So with all this talk about limits to the S/Ced engines at around 450 hp, if this adds 10 - 20 hp above that does this not count since it is really adding hp by taking away the work load of the ingine to run the mechanical pump. Or does hp still exhert the same forces on the engine wether it is an addition or by the reduction of its lossage.

[FordNut]

So with all this talk about limits to the S/Ced engines at around 450 hp, if this adds 10 - 20 hp above that does this not count since it is really adding hp by taking away the work load of the ingine to run the mechanical pump. Or does hp still exhert the same forces on the engine wether it is an addition or by the reduction of its lossage.
2 of the strongest supercharged MarkVIIIs on the planet are using these pumps. That ought to say something about whether it's worthwhile.

[stevengerard]

2 of the strongest supercharged MarkVIIIs on the planet are using these pumps. That ought to say something about whether it's worthwhile.

I'm not questioning wether its worthwhile, I am asking a physics question I don't know the answer to. The S/C adds hp by addition, an electric fan, water pump and fule pump, lighter pistons, cooler air intake, add horse power by reducing the work load of the engine itself. so does all this additional hp still add up to a dangerous amount. Lets say you are at the 450 hp of our engines and add an additional 55hp with all of these items is it now dangerous beacuse you are at 505 or is it really ok since you only pushed the power with additive hp to 450. Just a question of what hp and load means not a question of value.

[Dr Caleb]

Lets say you are at the 450 hp of our engines and add an additional 55hp with all of these items is it now dangerous beacuse you are at 505 or is it really ok since you only pushed the power with additive hp to 450. Just a question of what hp and load means not a question of value.

No, you aren't forcing the engine to make more horsepower. All that is going on with the waterpump thingie is you are letting more of the horses that were already there go to the rear wheels.

There's no danger of blowing it, all this does is make the engine have to do less 'extra' work. The horses were already there.

If you were to pull off the A/C pump, and power steering pump etc, you'd also see increases in HP. You'd be hot and have to drive in a straight line, but you'd free up more ponies :)

[Ross]

You'd be hot and have to drive in a straight line, but you'd free up more ponies :)


Sounds like a car for the drag strip! :burnout:

[Dennis Reinhart]

I am sold on it, so if we can get this thing going I will setup a group buy, I re'did Kieths car today on the dyno it made 458 RWHP on 9 PSI I am afraid to think what it will do with a electric pump LOL :bounce:

http://web.iwebcenters.com/reinhartautomotive/images/session/00-00-1087593758-kieth.jpg

[stevengerard]

[QUOTE=Dennis Reinhart]I am sold on it, so if we can get this thing going I will setup a group buyQUOTE]

I'm in as long as I'm spending :confused:

[BruteForce]

I'm in for the group buy. I will also need the other parts since I have the UD pulleys now.

[purelux]

Do you know what the part # for a gatorback would be. I have steeda underdrives as well. Also was it hard at all to wire in, I have a 98 towncar I guess there is an extra switched 12 volt empty fuse on 03+marauders but wasn't sure how to wire it on mine.


For sure a great idea! Picked up 12 hp and 8 ft-lb tq at the peaks, but the real story is at lower rpms. At 3500 rpm, picked up approximately 20 hp and 35 ft-lb tq. I'm anxious to get a dyno test/tune with the t/c locked to see what it does at the very low end, like 1500 or so. That's coming soon, when I change the MAF sensor.

I got the anodized pulley, and the wiring is pretty much hidden, so you don't really notice that it's not stock unless you look closely.

Since I have the underdrive crank pulley, it required a shorter belt, Gates part # 60905. With stock pulleys the OEM belt works ok.

Tested it in rush hour traffic, ATL I-285 northside at 3:30. Gridlock and 94 degrees. No cooling issues hatsoever. Talked to many more electric water pump users since making the decision and got nothing but good reviews. I agree!

Will post pictures later.
edit: try here for a pic:
http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/showphoto.php/photo/3539
edit: forgot to say, 297 RWHP now!

[FordNut]

Do you know what the part # for a gatorback would be. I have steeda underdrives as well. Also was it hard at all to wire in, I have a 98 towncar I guess there is an extra switched 12 volt empty fuse on 03+marauders but wasn't sure how to wire it on mine.
Sorry, I don't have the cross reference info, just the number that is on the belt. I had it installed and wired at Team Ford. I don't believe the wiring job is difficult, but wrapping the wiring and tying it in with the rest of the harness so it looks OEM may be a bit more involved.

[purelux]

I sent dennis a message asking for the whole kit. Did you have the relay and install kit on yours? Apparently dennis did it in under an hour. I figure I could do it myself or have it installed without too much trouble though with the realy and install kits. Where does your wire in just to an empty slot in the highpower fuse box under the hood?

[FordNut]

I sent dennis a message asking for the whole kit. Did you have the relay and install kit on yours? Apparently dennis did it in under an hour. I figure I could do it myself or have it installed without too much trouble though with the realy and install kits. Where does your wire in just to an empty slot in the highpower fuse box under the hood?
Yes, I got the relay and wiring kit. I'll check tomorrow to see where it's wired in.

edit: I would allow longer than an hour, due to the cooling system purge/fill process after the pump install.

[purelux]

Yeah I figured I wouldn't be able to do the job htat quick I was figuring a few hours.

[Dennis Reinhart]

Do you know what the part # for a gatorback would be. I have steeda underdrives as well. Also was it hard at all to wire in, I have a 98 towncar I guess there is an extra switched 12 volt empty fuse on 03+marauders but wasn't sure how to wire it on mine.

Just call me tomorrow I will look it up for you

[Fahad_H]

Since I have the underdrive crank pulley, it required a shorter belt, Gates part # 60905.



what was the part# for your car before the UDP and Meziere pump ?

[Mongoose]

FordNut (or anyone else who has had their pump installed) I could use some help.

the wiring is pretty much hidden, so you don't really notice that it's not stock unless you look closely
Can you elaborate on how it's routed?

Yes, I got the relay and wiring kit. I'll check tomorrow to see where it's wired in.
I going to install mine tomorrow. I know the orange wire from the relay connects to the alternator out-put terminal and the black wires from the relay and pump go to ground, but where's the best place to tie in the blue wires if doing a dual source installation (they're connected using a butt splice normally but teed to a switched sourced if doing a dual source installation)? The green wire is to be connected to the fuel pump on signal wire according to the dual source installation diagram (see http://www.meziere.com/ and click on View Product Instruction Manuals and then click on Dual Source Wiring Diagram.zip). Is this the same where is says in the installation instructions "12. Route the ignition on sense wire from the relay to the T-Tap ..." and if so, where is the best place to tie it in?
And last but not least, where'd you have the LED tied in?

[FordNut]

FordNut (or anyone else who has had their pump installed) I could use some help.

Can you elaborate on how it's routed?

I going to install mine tomorrow. I know the orange wire from the relay connects to the alternator out-put terminal and the black wires from the relay and pump go to ground, but where the best place to tie in the blue wires if doing a dual source installation (they're connected using a butt splice normally but teed to a switched sourced if doing a dual source installation)? The green wire is to be connected to the fuel pump on signal wire according to the dual source installation diagram (see http://www.meziere.com/ and click on View Product Instruction Manuals and then click on Dual Source Wiring Diagram.zip). Is this the same where is says in the installation instructions "12. Route the ignition on sense wire from the relay to the T-Tap ..." and if so, where is the best place to tie it in?
And last but not least, where'd you have the LED tied in?
Not much help on the hookup. I had Jason at Team Ford do the electrical part and Scott did the physical install. As for routing, the relay is mounted underneath the power panel (I guess that's what you call it) right behind the battery. It is under the part that overhangs so you can't see it unless you look for it. The wiring is wrapped in split plastic flexible wiring loom material and routed with the wires that go along the front of the passenger's side cam cover. The wiring from the pump itself comes out from behind the pump and is routed to a connector near the passenger's side fuel injector rail. Note that the kit comes with inline fuses, which were used for my installation but Jason thought it would be better to have a self-resetting circuit breaker instead so that is what he has been using on more recent installations. Sorry, I don't have specs on the breaker. I'll have mine retrofitted someday.

edit: And I got mine before the LED idea came up so I don't have one. Don't really think it's necessary, but....

[Dennis Reinhart]

[QUOTE=Mongoose]FordNut (or anyone else who has had their pump installed) I could use some help.

Can you elaborate on how it's routed?

its posted but call me tomorrow I will walk you through this

[MarauderMark]

I just had mine installed friday by dealer $$$$= rediculous!!!!!So i dont know anything except that it in.So here some pics of it..