P1233 MM broke down 100 miles from home

[Agent2006]

Hello

Everything was going smoothly on Father's day....low speed cruising through a residential area....when suddenly the EATC AC fan cut off, check engine light came on, high beam indicator started blinking (??? never saw that happen before)...and the car quit.

Restarted everytime right away but would only move a few feet then started sputtering. Right after the restart the engine would freely rev & sounded fine, then began to sputter finally would stall.

--checked fuel pump cut off switch
---reset the p1233 code
---unplugged and replugged in the Fuel driver module

code came on again, cleared it again, came on a third time..P1233

---I'm getting a used FPDM and going to visit the car tomorrow, hopefully it's not the PCM? :confused: any experiences with this?

[Comin' in Hot]

Where are you at?

[justbob]

Maybe clear the code a fourth time? [emoji6]

I never understood the reasoning in doing that.

When was the fuel filter changed last?

Are you able to datalog fuel pressures?

Have you swapped the fuel pump relay with another?

Start small. [emoji1303]


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[Agent2006]

Hey thanks Comin'in....I'm in oxford the car was in eldersburg md.

Update...early this am I checked some local yards...one had 2003 town car just came in...rolled it. Gentle roll tufts of grass jammed in the door jamb,shoulda got a pic. That tells me the car was in running cond. When it got totaled....means the fpdm probably worked. Trunk still shut. Key still in ignition....popped open the trunk...$15.90 later i had my fpdm. Went to the MM swapped modules...reset the codes...ran well for five minutes...then high beam indicator,abs light, cel , weird noise in cash squeak, eatc fan went on them off...car stalled. P1233 again.

Either: bad pcm, bad ground(s)......? Remember i used all new ford battery/alt/starter harness,New motorcraft battery....one thing the air compressor power cable was still live ! Recently made a spark...thought I pulled that relay....

Fuel filter changed 5000 ago ,datalogg showed good fuel pressure, new Delphi fuel pump 5K ago....I'm getting it rollback towed home then I'll dig in. First day around here where the weather got real warm. Bad solder or electronics?

[offroadkarter]

Check the reset switch, I mean that car was in 4 accidents God only knows what that thing is doing.

Pull the carpet back, pound on it til it trips, then pop the button in. See what happens.

if that doesn't help, might have to start probing wires

[Zack]

Sounds like it needs an alternator

[Agent2006]

got it home $380....tow bill. now for the autopsy....

[Agent2006]

Update:

--hit the reset trunk switch 3X ... Car starts right up idles fine, but ABS light is on. Fuses are OK. Eventually, it will start to shudder and the high beam blue indicator comes on the dash, then it stalls. So, I took apart Ground 101 mounted on the driver inner fender liner -which grounds the PCM and the ABS module. Then I ran 8 ga. wire from that ground directly to the negative terminal on the battery. Cleaned and checked Ground 102. (neg battery terminal to the pass inner fender.) When this shuddering occurs, the EATC shuts off.

Also hear squeaking or clicking from the Blower speed control module on the firewall? Weird. So next I turned on the headlights/on high beam...and the car quit. Turned off the headlights, restarted fine....turned the headlights on again car quit.

I should mention when it runs fine multimeter across the batter reads 14.30VDC -14.40VDC....when the problem occurs 12.48-12.04 VDC. When the headlights caused the motor to shut off (like turning off the key) was still above 12 VDC!

Finally used a Stanley load tester on the 6 month old Motorcraft battery...."good" three different tries. 15 secs.

The alternator (" a rebuilt one") that's on there now: was replaced at 47K miles in 2009....now ten years, 90K miles later I'm going to put a new Delco alternator on there. Stay tuned! Hoping it is not the PCM going out on me.

So why was the fuel pump driver module the thing that set a code? For no signal. Maybe because it's the furthest thing from the PCM, biggest amp/current drop due to the long wires.

[Agent2006]

Update -new Delco Alternator, swapped, in a new Motorcraft battery, disconnected then sprayed the PCM connector.....no improvement. I ordered a refurbished PCM = $399...

[justbob]

Have to taken the harness apart that runs behind the drivers side head yet? It’s known to rub on the metal support holding up the wiper cowl. I believe pretty much everything that is going wacky on you runs in that harness including the wiring for the FRPS.


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[Agent2006]

Good point, wouldn't hurt to trace the wiring harness route again....I did look at that harness when I first got the car running ..but not recently.

[justbob]

It’s usually a very noticeable slice right thru the convoluted piping.


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[Agent2006]

Thanks, wiring harness was routed down low not near the bracket and had good unmolested wrapping. I sent my computer off to carcomputerexchange.com in NC...they did not have a core. Said it would take a week ~

[decipha]

its obvious a bad ignition switch

[Agent2006]

Remember:

Runs fine at idle

--turn on headlights ,engine shuts off
--tap PCM box lightly, engine shuts off

--posting all this for current and future Marauder owners...

After I replace the $400 dollar PCM, I can replace the $10 switch makes perfect sense for this Zombie Marauder.

[Glenn-ho]

when it shuts down does the pats light blink rapidly?

[Agent2006]

when it shuts down does the pats light blink rapidly?

it did not seem to affect the PATS light, but here is what was so weird:

blue high beam indicator came on, turn signal arrow came on solid ---meanwhile the lights were not on and the turn signal was not on. Meanwhile the HVAC fan shut off as did the EATC . like it was turned off all of a sudden. Turn the key off then on, and activate the EATC on max air and it would indicate temp, fan speed would blast normally...of course with no engine running the air was not cold.

Weird buzzing/clicking humming from the Blower speed control module. Funny thing, without the engine started the BSCM (brand new ) works just fine.

ABS light came on.

Posting all this for future Marauder owners as they search for symptoms.

[Turbov6Bryan]

Did you receive the rebuilt pcm yet?
Fix it or??

[Agent2006]

Just arrived! Install is tomorrow.....

[Agent2006]

Hmmm ...got the PCM back from the "rebuilder" they painted the case a blotchy fisheye black with a spray can....battery has been disconnected for days....plugged PCM in, turned the key...and NOTHING. No crank no start. PATS light is off....no flash, no steady red light no blinking...nothing. $400 bucks worth. I'm getting a refund, not messing around with those guys, no I'm not sending it back to them. They had it for 2 weeks.

Onto plan B !!!!

[Agent2006]

Update#2 --I powered down, 30 mins ---- then swapped in used Marauder PCM "CDH0" which had no key. No PATS light, no crank no start. I think a working PCM should have at least flashed the PATS light normally then gone to steady light or rapid blink once I stuck the "non matching" - my original key ---- in with the wrong transistor. So, I need to go back and check all fuses and relays.

If the steering column transponder was bad, why did car used to start just fine but had all the issuses?Unless it has just now gone bad..unlikely.

Original PCM - might have PATS messed up from the "rebuilder" or blown fuse/relay.
CDH0 PCM from ebay might not be working. Or needs a key coded. But Decipha is of the belief that all keys work on 2003 PCM's - he's seen a few PCM/Marauders so I don't doubt him. Is my early MM ~# 300 build number a different one where the key codes matter, and not a generic signal to the PATS? Maybe there was trouble during the run so they made all 2003's after 300#.... generic code.


Still to try after all fuses are checked----rebuilt PCM, then if no PATS light, CDH0 PCM, then PCM with matching key. Means swapping lock cylinders.

THIS CAR WILL RUN JUST FINE ALL PROBLEMS CAN BE SOLVED, JUST TAKING A WHILE!....Cursed car, living up to its bad reputation.....:confused:

[justbob]

Do you not have a dealer around that could at least diagnose it??


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[Glenn-ho]

Sorry to hear. I had a wiring problem and it took me a month to find it. Caused my mm to just shut down whenever it wanted. Pats light would flash rapidly when it shut down. Was a nick in a wire near a factory splice. Caused it to corrode. After I repaired the wire it ran great . Only problem was only one key out of the three that were programmed would work now. My new generation star tester could not program any other key. I bought a used PCM here. Had a guy that does mobile air bag diagnostics for the Auto Body shops in my area come to my house and pull all the information out of my BMDO pcm and swap it into the used PCM. Might call around to auto body shops in your area to see if they know of a mobile diagnostic guy, The guy I used was able to pull right from ford and flashed it. I paid $125.00 was well worth it.

[Agent2006]

Sorry to hear. I had a wiring problem and it took me a month to find it. Caused my mm to just shut down whenever it wanted. Pats light would flash rapidly when it shut down. Was a nick in a wire near a factory splice. Caused it to corrode. After I repaired the wire it ran great . Only problem was only one key out of the three that were programmed would work now. My new generation star tester could not program any other key. I bought a used PCM here. Had a guy that does mobile air bag diagnostics for the Auto Body shops in my area come to my house and pull all the information out of my BMDO pcm and swap it into the used PCM. Might call around to auto body shops in your area to see if they know of a mobile diagnostic guy, The guy I used was able to pull right from ford and flashed it. I paid $125.00 was well worth it.

interesting, so the fixed splice didn't fix everything. There's a Ford dealer about 10 miles away, I like the parts dept, but the service department has been a mixed bag. When they looked at my 2010 Milan tailights (LED issue) they didn't put the cover bolts back on, and left a greasy shop rag down in the trunk drop off. When they replaced my 2006 MGM steering coupler, the tech replaced my nice dipstick with a dirty bent up one, with a broken off pull handle.
The other Ford dealer shop about 15 miles away could not align my lowered MM recently, made me wait 3 hrs, charged me $90 bucks then left the rack mounting bolt loose which caused it to fail PA inspection initially.

So, I'm a little leery of the Ford stores around here. I'd have to have it towed to a dealer and that'd be $100 bucks...I'll exercise that option but not before I do some more digging. Might come down to that. Good idea about the mobile diagnostics guy, I wonder what he can do if there's no codes...the car doesn't start?

[Glenn-ho]

can make any mm pcm work in your car. he can remove the information stored in your pcm and transfer it to another so all your keys and fobs work. and flash it with newest update.

[Blakshukvw]

Have you checked your battery and charging system? My explorer started acting funny while driving a short while back. Started out as just an periodic abs light then turned into erratic speedo and finally ignition shutting off while driving intermittently. Charged fine but in my research of similar issues I found numerous other ford trucks having similar issues with batteries having a bad cell. My problem only occurred when the battery was exposed to real high under hood temps and high ambient temps outside. I had another battery so I threw it in the x and t hasn’t misbehaved in over 3 weeks now. Stupid Interstate battery.

[Agent2006]

Yes, new battery, NEW: not rebuilt Delco Alternator, NEW starter/alt/wiring harness. I hear you about Interstate --my BIL bought one, went dead in a month. Shame that used to be a good battery, now all mine are Motorcraft in the MGM and MM.

[Glenn-ho]

like decifa said I would check ignition switch at the very least for a burnt melted connector. very easy to rule it out. not the ignition cylinder the switch.

[Agent2006]

Yeah that's a good idea and not hard to do...would be getting a good look at it anyway for one of my tests --new PCM , new ignition cylinder...

[Agent2006]

update :

swapped in new ignition switch, repaired an iffy splice from some aftermarket alarm on the red/blu stripe wire...

charged battery 13.2V

checked interior fuse 8 ="PCM", swapped out PCM relay under hood and the PCM diode 105.

got PATS flashing every 3 secs! OK, so hit the key--- nothing. Clipped on remote starter to starter terminals, car cranked then fired. Idled well, then CEL came on, began to run rough. Then stalled, would not restart. no codes set on code reader ACTRON, on the newer reader: "no communication with PCM" but no four digit code.

QUESTION: anyone have a pic of the two wires underneath the ABS module? BLK/YEL and BLK ...bolted to a metal triangle under the ABS module on the plastic fender liner. Just want to make sure those are OK.

I'm rechecking all grounds and all visible parts of the harness before I try my newly purchased---2003 PCM from JY with matched key. The one I haven't tried yet.

[Agent2006]

This car is kicking my a**, but I'm sponging off and ready for Round 13!

[Glenn-ho]

hang in there.

[decipha]

cdh0 pcm ?

can u post a pic of the ecu sticker?

[Agent2006]

CDR0 -sorry for my typo

---update!!!! I said heck with it, made a starter switch out of

--push button switch /normally off type
--12 ft of lamp cord
--four crimp lugs, which I soldered the + lead to the starter connections. one lead to + one to - , ran the switch up through a plug in the firewall upper left side near the hood hinge where the brake harness plugs in, attached the push button in place of an old aftermarket alarm rocker switch. To the left of the steering wheel. Turn key to "run", hit the button, and it STARTS. Ran the MM all through the countryside, Runs fine, As I continue to diagnose the "no crank with ignition switch" issue.

Zombie Marauder is alive and roaming the streets !!!!!!!!!!!!! Fear the Dark menace.......:burn: not going a whole summer Marauder-less.....

I also picked up a Hemi Challenger...funny how taut and SMALL the Marauder seems compared to the beauty Pig Challenger. MM is like a BMW sedan....Challenger : Which out weighs the MM by 200 lbs...

[Agent2006]

now to tackle that fuel tank pressure sensor...

[decipha]

CDR0 is a truck calibration for a 4r100, it would require some significant code changes to run a marauder correctly, surely that cant be what you have.

[Agent2006]

I cannot type. Just can't.

CRD0 ---MPC-198 - 3W3A-12A-550-CA /6WCWP198A01-AA ---was what I plugged in and didn't run, before I chased some wires

CRD1 -MPC-198 - 3W3A-12A650-CB/6CWP 198A03-AA - is what is in there now with matched key, won't start with key, but will run, no CEL, ABS OK, runs great.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/sboAAOSw4LVc08sy/s-l1600.jpg

[decipha]

thats odd it should run on either pcm as they are both identical for all intents and purposes

[Agent2006]

If the key doesn't matter, then it was the cleaning of the grounds, etc...that made the difference. (I've had lots of Fords, it seems they tend to have ground issues, not a show stopper or a reason to be anti-Ford, but something to monitor. ) Or that CRD0 PCm had issues. Eventually I'm going to swap them around and see what works and what doesn't...for all of us to have as a future reference.

[Glenn-ho]

found this while searching for a problem I have.
Replacing PCM only — E type PATS
If only the PCM is being replaced on a PATS control function type E vehicle, two keys need to be programmed into the PCM. This requires a scan tool with capability to program PATS type E keys, or a CARDONE Flash2 All-Makes Reprogrammer with Ford license and subscription to www.motorcraftservice.com. The tool and software used will give specific instructions to follow. The general steps are listed below.
1. Cycle key 1 to RUN
2. Enter Security Access on PATS control function module. (This takes 10 minutes).

3. Select "Ignition Key Code Erase"
4. Disconnect tool and leave key in RUN position for 20 seconds
5. Cycle key 1 to OFF, then RUN, and back to OFF.
6. Cycle key 2 to RUN, then OFF.
7. Start vehicle.

[decipha]

^^ that doesnt apply thats for reprogramming a key or reprogramming a new pcm pats code

all 03 marauders have the same pats code and all 04 another. Its similar to what ford did with setting all 96 cobras to the same pats code.

[Agent2006]

New ignition switch from Advance Auto...
TEST 1 - CRD1 PCM, CRD1 Key = normal PATS light (solid red then goes out) NO CRANK. Starts with remote starter push button switch.
TEST 2 - CRD1 PCM, FDH2 Key = fast flashing PATS light, NO CRANK. Still Starts with remote starter push button switch! FDH2 was the original PCM type.

stay tuned for further testing....

TEST 3 -CRD1 PCM, CRD1 Key = normal PATS light (solid red then goes out) NO CRANK. swapped back in old ignition switch. STARTS WITH KEY!!!

$#@#$%^!!! - Advance Auto, brand new $21 dollar "BWD" brand ignition switch. That's what you want when doing a difficult troubleshoot. New parts that don't work right out of the box. :mad2:

TEST 4 -- original rebuilt PCM, original key = STARTS/RUNS. Done. Fixed. woo hoo

[Agent2006]

30 miles of country roads and some highway blasting. Still runs great. Summer time is Marauder time!!!! :D AC I fixed a month ago still blows cold.

[decipha]

yeah always best to stick with motorcraft parts sounds like they gave you the wrong type ignition switch

[Fastbob]

That's why I never ever use aftermarket parts unless I have to.

[Agent2006]

That's why I never ever use aftermarket parts unless I have to.

Agreed when they are affordable (case in point: FPDM was $316, had to be special ordered at the Ford dealer, was $15 at the junkyard...think I'm taking a chance there)..remember this was a $1300 dollar car...

- I was desperate and paid the price. One would think a company could make something as simple as an ignition switch! (I suggest More beatings, less water breaks at the Far east sweat shop where they made that one.)

I did spray the old switch as best I could with electronics cleaner, tried to get inside the box and let it dry thoroughly. That may have helped.

[Glenn-ho]

great to hear you got it sorted.