Leaking oil sending unit

[Svashtar]

Just my luck. [emoji19] I have this unique ability to do things in the most difficult way possible, or find unique problems.

Anyway, today I finished my COT o-rings, and looks like it’s all good.

Then pulled the ABS module to send off tomorrow.

Finally, finished the oil filter housing gasket replacement, got it all back together, and while I was filling it with coolant and burping the system I spotted oil under the car.

Its not coming from the gasket, it’s coming from behind the knurled washer of the oil sending unit. I attach a pic. I JUST had this thing in my hand two hours ago, off the car and could have changed it in a second. The washer WAS loose, but tightening it doesn’t help much. (I’m wondering now if _this_ was the source of my leak all this time and not the housing gasket!)

Questions: do I have to dump my $30 of fresh synthetic oil to change this?

And, I did the conversion 13 or 14 years ago to real OP gauge, and was down here following instructions from Wes Chain, but have no recollection of what I did. I’ll check my old papers and see if I have Wes’s instructions.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190701/fed47fee90d56b5e71af418550e2d7 1c.jpg

Would that involve a different sending unit? I recall changing wiring around but not replacing this I don’t think. Would anyone know what part # I should ask for to keep my real OP qauge functioning?

Thanks for the help again.


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[justbob]

Yes, you changed the sending unit back then. I’ve always had luck just snugging it up. You could try to loosen just enough to squeeze a bit of silicone or whatever your weapon of choice and snug it back up, but only back it off slightly.

Or buy another one from autometer. Either way you don’t need to drain the oil.


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[Svashtar]

Yes, you changed the sending unit back then. I’ve always had luck just snugging it up. You could try to loosen just enough to squeeze a bit of silicone or whatever your weapon of choice and snug it back up, but only back it off slightly.

Or buy another one from autometer. Either way you don’t need to drain the oil.


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Thanks again Bob. I’ve tightened and loosened it several times. Looser is way leakier, and it can’t get any tighter. But it’s full of oil right? So it has a valve that closes when it’s removed?

Wouldn’t the LPS just have a standard sending unit from a Crown Vic? Why autometer?

Sorry for all the questions.


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[Svashtar]

Just did a quick check and looks like folks bought the real autometer OP gauge and sending unit from Jegs, Summit, etc.

For now I’ll try putting a nylon washer behind it coated with RTV, and if that doesn’t work I’ll see if I can locate just the sending unit. As I recall I bought the kit from Wes, and the gauge from DR way back when, but only have a part number for the gauge.


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[justbob]

I don’t think you can remove the stud without hurting something on the inside? I’ve never attempted it but I would assume it’s connected to something. That’s why I said to back it off slightly and try something of liquid form.

As for oil, I’ve always just had the replacement ready upon removal of the old. You won’t lose much at all.


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[Marauderjack]

Looks to me like the diaphragm is perforated and your best bet is a new sender!!:confused:

[blazen71]

My $.02, just get a new sender and be done with it.

[Marauderjack]

^^^+10^^^:beer:

[Turbov6Bryan]

The sending unit isn't "full of oil" it has failed and needs replacement

[Svashtar]

The sending unit isn't "full of oil" it has failed and needs replacement

Got it, thanks everyone. I had no idea how this unit works. I guessed that it held oil and calculated the pressure based on the OP in the housing. This morning my OP needle flopped all the way over to the right and isn’t budging, so you’re correct it’s toast.

My mechanic gave me the autometer part #, 2242, and I have one coming from Summit.

As long as the gasket isn’t leaking (paranoid about that) I’m good, but now feel like a dumbass because I’ll bet this was the leak all along and not the housing. (?). But WTH, at 120k it was due anyway...


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[Chi Stallion]

Buy a new one and use the old one for warranty and thank me later [emoji106]


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[Marauderjack]

My first one failed and I cut it open to see what made it tick.......see photo!!

[Svashtar]

Interesting! I got the new one on, made a bit of a mess. I figured about 1/6th of a quart came pouring out when I took it off.

Now, no more leaks, but still no oil pressure. I changed out the solderless quick connection at the end of the wire that connects to the sender, but no good.

There’s a break in the wire up there somewhere, or in the harness that was fastened to the oil filter housing, but I can’t find it. I’m afraid I might have to drain the new oil and pull the filter to access it. PITFA.

BTW, can anyone tell me what this is? See attached pic. Brass colored cylinder in the middle of the pic just below the OF. Same size and shape as the sending unit. It spins easily and is wired by an offshoot of the same harness.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190706/3511472cdfde0cbcb654980f0ea2f1 32.jpg

Thanks.


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[Turbov6Bryan]

Stick your head back and Look at that odd shaped brass cylinder thing is probably connected to your steering rack assembly and is the item that changes the steering quick ratio on

[Svashtar]

Stick your head back and Look at that odd shaped brass cylinder thing is probably connected to your steering rack assembly and is the item that changes the steering quick ratio on

?? I’ll look again at the harness connection. Just know it can be easily rotated by hand, (and that I’ve ignored it all this time...)


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