Over heating only with AC on

[crownvic05]

2005 lx sport.

Car will overheat while on park or even when driving on highway with ac on. 180 degrees thermostat and tuned by marty. Once the ac is off, temp will drop down to 190-195f. Now this is in 90 degrees weather and higher. With ac on, temp will rise to 220 and thats when i will shut ac off. Ive hosed down the radiator fins and condensor twice. Removed thermostat and tested in boiling water and its good. Fan is working as it should. Ac on, fan speed goes up. What am i looking for here?
I should also say that this started happening after my small engine build. I added edelbrock intake manifold, comp cam stage 2 with valve springs and rebuilt heads from modularheadspeedshop. 10.5"converter and some other small goodies. I do have a stewart water pump which was working great on my stock motor. Stainless works long tubes with 2.5" exhaust.

So why after this build im getting overheating issues with ac on.

[Gkk2001]

I wish I could help but the problem as you state it certainly does not make much sense. I know you already knew that otherwise would not be asking. Possibly, the facts as you state them are not like you think they are. Maybe the fan is not running when you think it is.
i just went through a similar overheating situation with my 07 CV. Turned out both electrical connectors (before and after fan control module, not sure if you have this module on an 05, maybe not but you must have some electrical connectors) were defective. If you have an intermittent connection on one of these pigtail connectors, you will overheat rather quickly. They are easy to replace but fan current draw is high so you must insure a strong butt connection. Ideally a soldered connection which can be a pita due to the location. Just some food for thought.

[sailsmen]

Are you sure 220* is "Hot"? Do you have the OEM Fan and shrouding? Do you have the OEM front air dam?

[Turbov6Bryan]

Garden hose won't touch the fur stuck in the condenser. Try using a pressure washer

[justbob]

Garden hose won't touch the fur stuck in the condenser. Try using a pressure washer

Agreed. Separate the radiator from the condenser and and get a real look..


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[crownvic05]

I have a question though, why would this issue just happen after the new engine install? Can cams and new heads do such a difference in heat? I also have a cowl hood from classglass which should with air circulation.

Oem fan and shrouding are still there. I have notice that the fins on the condensor are pretty shot. The bottom portion is are pretty much closed in certain spots. But once again, this issue just started after new engine installed. I will take a closer look at all this. Is there a way to check the fan with a voltmeter?

[justbob]

Warmer weather and bad timing? I assume there’s no air trapped hence why I didn’t bother with the go to “burp it”.

But only a stuck thermostat, small head gasket leak, clogged cooling passages, plugged up radiator, and an air trap can cause what you describe.




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[crownvic05]

Brand new oem 180 stat. I removed it before yesturday, brought it home and put it in a pot with boiling water and the state open. I waited for water to boil at 170 and up slowly.

If i have the system flushed, will it help elimate air traps?

[decipha]

no flushing will not help with trapped air and can actually cause more

usually trapped air causes the temp gauge to keep climbing up and then temp drops quickly while moving or revving the engine (after the thermo opens)

220 is perfectly fine nothing to worry about. If it gets over 230 then that should be of concern. But most likely your radiator is blocked off down low as it pretty common. Remove the condenser and clean it out and it should be better. Yea those modifications especially the converter can cause the cooling system to work harder which is common.

[1Marauder]

Plugs and gap?

[crownvic05]

Plugs and gap?

Ngk tr6 gapped at .45 as per martys recommandations.

[crownvic05]

By the way, i have steeda ud pulleys installed. Crank and water pump only. Alternator pulley left stock. Once again, these were installed in my last stock motor and ran no issues. Park rpm bumped to 1000 and drive to 800 due to loud stereo.

[sailsmen]

"The bottom portion is are pretty much closed in certain spots." - No air flow no remove heat.

Do you have the OEM front air dam?

[Invective]

I experienced a weird situation with my '05 Mustang GT not long ago. In the middle of a 125 mile trip on what was the hottest day of the year (at the time - mid 90s) I stopped for fuel. Upon restart, I noticed the a/c had stopped working and the a/c clutch had an irregular cycle, with the motor nearly shutting off whenever the clutch engaged. With my 'damn the torpedoes' attitude, I began driving anyway as the a/c began working correctly and the gauges didn't show anything abnormal. Drove another 50 miles normally, stopped to have the car hand washed.

Upon departure, I noticed the a/c was misbehaving again but decided to continue. A few blocks later, the 'engine overheat warning' illuminated and I immediately pulled into the nearby parking lot with coolant exiting the overflow tank. Phoned AAA and had Mustang transported to a local shop I was familiar with. Conclusion? New OEM fan assembly installed with Mustang operating correctly ever since.

McGard security nuts installed recently with the rear bumper being repainted in the next few weeks due to clear coat separation. Mustang going into the shop next week to determine why the power driver's seat assembly blows its fuse randomly.

[crownvic05]

"The bottom portion is are pretty much closed in certain spots." - No air flow no remove heat.

Do you have the OEM front air dam?

I do have the oem front air damn. Its still in pretty good shape to.

[crownvic05]

Ok so i was out today 94 degree weather. Of course ac off cause car would overheat. I gor home after a hour drive. Left car running and popped the hood just to snoop around. I was curious about one thing. I started slowly removing the cap from the reservoir, i herd hissing sound for a quick secound. I continued removing the cap to come and find out that there is no pressure in the system. Coolant didnt come out flying out. Didnt even move. I beleive this is not normal?

[8UWITH6]

Just fill the system properly and check back. Put the nose up and pinch off the lower hose coming out of the reservoir. Open cot tube plug fill it up. Start car let run add coolant as needed. It is a pain in the ass but you gotta start with basics. I see you already cleaned the fins on the radiator among other things. If the system isn't full you will get erratic temp readings.

[crownvic05]

Cot tube plug? I dont beleive a crown vic has this?

[Zack]

Put a new cap on it

[crownvic05]

Step one, new cap.
Will give that a try zack.

[Invective]

The Great Lakes Panther board on FB may be a better resource for the OP. The board overrun with clapped out police cars, some Lincolns and the odd Marauder. My car spent its entire life in MI before coming to NC last year so I signed up for that reason. I was kicked off and deemed a troll for questioning why people were trying to collect money for the board moderator, feeling he deserved some sort of 'salary'. Yeah, I gave them a fit over a bunch of other crap too.

[crownvic05]

Update:

So i replaced the reservoir cap today. Weather was not that hot and it wasnt that humid either. Drove around for an hour in stop and go traffic with ac full blast. Temp never went over 203f. I thought that replacing the cap was the solution. Get home, park my car in the garage and let the car idle just to test it some more. After a few mins, temp starts rising. So im back to square one. I was curious to see if the new cap was helping with pressure so i slowly went ahead and openned it. To my surprise, no pressure what so ever. Put cap on, left hood open and ac blasting. Few mins later, temp was low at 203. So i went ahead and closed the hood. Few mins later, temp started riseing. So this right here for sure clarifies that my temp issue is surely ventalation issues. Now, im concerned about the reservoir not having pressure.

[Invective]

Update:

So i replaced the reservoir cap today. Weather was not that hot and it wasnt that humid either. Drove around for an hour in stop and go traffic with ac full blast. Temp never went over 203f. I thought that replacing the cap was the solution. Get home, park my car in the garage and let the car idle just to test it some more. After a few mins, temp starts rising. So im back to square one. I was curious to see if the new cap was helping with pressure so i slowly went ahead and openned it. To my surprise, no pressure what so ever. Put cap on, left hood open and ac blasting. Few mins later, temp was low at 203. So i went ahead and closed the hood. Few mins later, temp started riseing. So this right here for sure clarifies that my temp issue is surely ventalation issues. Now, im concerned about the reservoir not having pressure.


Maybe your car isn't running hot? Good grief....

50408

[crownvic05]

Im dataloging temp. Its going above 220.

[decipha]

see post #9

[Zack]

see post #9

220 is NOT normal for a mod motor. 185-200 under brutal conditions is what he should be seeing.

[decipha]

The cooling fan only begins turning on at 216 degrees on a bone stock marauder.

50411

[fastblackmerc]

The cooling fan only begins turning on at 216 degrees on a bone stock marauder.

50411

Unless the A/C is ON.

[RubberCtyRauder]

The cooling fan only begins turning on at 216 degrees on a bone stock marauder.

50411

Car is 05 crown Vic, not 32v, and a tune can change when fan comes on temp wise

[crownvic05]

I am purchasing a radiator pressure test kit today after work. I will check the pressure and see whats happening there. Reservoir not having pressure can be related to my overheating with ac on.

[crownvic05]

Car is 05 crown Vic, not 32v, and a tune can change when fan comes on temp wise

and yes , its a 05 crown vic

[crownvic05]

Update

Ok so drove to harbor freight and bought a radiator pressure test kit. Got home and went at it. Gave it 16psi of pressure and pressure started dropping. I then herd drips. Found that the clamp on the lower radiator hose where it connects to the oil filter adaptor wasnt making enough force to keep the hose tight. Replaced the clamp.

Tested the system again and gave it 16psi. Didnt give it much time just maybe 2 mins and didnt see no drop. Put the cap back on and went for an hour drive. Got home and went to remove the reservoir cap and no god damn pressure. Tested the pressure with the test kit and this time left it hooked up for 15 mins. Gave it 17psi and 15 mins later lost 3psi. Couldnt find no leak no where.

So now what?

[crownvic05]

Just want to inform that i have resolved my issue. Bought all new heavy duty blue silicon hoses for a p71. Also bought all new clamps. Purchased a new reservoir and cap and a brand new oem motorcraft fan and motorcraft waterpump, just in case. Also installed my stock oem water pump pulley and crank pulley. Took my steedas of. System now holds pressure and no over heating. Ac is even colder.

Want to thank all for your inputs and time. Greatly appriciate the web site.

[a1youngdouble]

I wonder will that be the solution for my Marauder I’m having the same exact problem after putting a new block in my car it starts overheating with the ac on


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[crownvic05]

Update guys, so i fixed the issue with the system not holding pressure. Thats great. Seems like the over heating with ac on is still happenning. Today temp was up in the 101 feeling 110. In heavy stop and go traffic, car started getting hot. Plugged in my sct to data log the coolant temp. Hit the 103 celcius which is 217 f. Had to shut off and temp started dropping. I beleive that the issue might be the ac compressor. It has a none stop ticking noise. Might be failing causing overload. Ive read that its possible.

Back to step one.

[Marauderjack]

217* ain't too bad under those conditions.....mine hit 228* in stop and go traffic once with a 105* ambient!!:confused:

Does the temperature stabilize when you are moving at about 45 MPH??:cool:

[crownvic05]

228? wao thats high. But you have a procharger on your car. Creates more heat?

The fact that this only happens with AC on, implies that theres some kind of issue. This week wont be that bad. I will drive her and see what happens. Weather shouldnt reach 90's this week.
to be continue

[Marauderjack]

I turned the AC off and it fell to 215* or so.......do some research on AC condenser heat......it will SHOCK you!!:eek:

[mm svt]

Your a/c condenser fins are dirty and sending hot air across the radiator


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[crownvic05]

So i just ordered ac condenser, accumulator, compressor and orifice tube. All parts are motorcraft and throught rockauto with the beautiful 5% off.
I am determine to have this issue resolved. My ac condenser, the fins are pretty much crushed especially towards the bottom.

I will report hopefully next week when i get all this installed.
Today weather was at 83. Ac was on high. Temp was rising slowly and made it to 204 before i shut off the ac and temp lowered pretty fast to 194 and sat there. When ac is on, i can feel the engine some what stall. I have a feeling that my 170k mile compressor is close toast especially with that none stop clicking noise. Also the fact that the ac condensor isent moving much air through because of the crushed fins can also be an issue for ventilation.

[MyBlackBeasts]

Does the fan kick on when you turn the a/c on?

[crownvic05]

Does the fan kick on when you turn the a/c on?


Yes it does.

[Marauderjack]

Does the fan run on HIGH SPEED when the AC is on??:confused:

[mm svt]

A/C compressor constantly clicking can be low refrigerant, or high pressure switch sensing hot temperatures, either way seems like you’re going to address the entire thing.


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[crownvic05]

A/C compressor constantly clicking can be low refrigerant, or high pressure switch sensing hot temperatures, either way seems like you’re going to address the entire thing.


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Took the car to my mechanic real quick to check the refrigerant. Pressure was suoer high. They vacuumed the system, and filled it again. No leaks also. I will drive it and test it now. Mechanic did say that the none clicking is not normal and compressor will take a crap sooner then later. Anyways, received the condenser today. All other parts getting to me by friday the latest.

[crownvic05]

Does the fan run on HIGH SPEED when the AC is on??:confused:

Yes sir. I can feel the difference.

[MyBlackBeasts]

Took the car to my mechanic real quick to check the refrigerant. Pressure was suoer high. They vacuumed the system, and filled it again. No leaks also. I will drive it and test it now. Mechanic did say that the none clicking is not normal and compressor will take a crap sooner then later. Anyways, received the condenser today. All other parts getting to me by friday the latest.

Did they replace the orfice tube and receiver drier also (I hope so, otherwise you need a new mechanic).

Is the fan running on high speed with a/c on?

[crownvic05]

Did they replace the orfice tube and receiver drier also (I hope so, otherwise you need a new mechanic).

Is the fan running on high speed with a/c on?

Orfice tube was replaced about 2 years ago with a new accumilator and ac line. I didnt bother asking him to check nor replace nothing as all these parts should be delivered today and I will start on replacing them. I just went by my mechanic to have the pressure checked and get frion. I have no leaks either. Ac is still not as cold. Cant wait for parts.

[crownvic05]

So i have a small update guys.

So i yet have not installed the new ac parts. So i started playing with my sct tune. Making few adjustments with my rpms. Being that i had steeda crank and water pump pulley installed, i had my idle rpm in park and drive bumped to 1000 at park and 900 in drive. This was done due to my loud after market car audio system. Switching to stock crank and water pump pulley, i had to lower my rpms. So i lowered it to 700 rpm in park and drive. Been driving this way for a few days. Ac still not doing good but car did not over heat. The highest it saw was 196 with a 96 degree weather. I understand that crown vics p71 have a higher idle due to all there electronics. I beleive its 800 in drive and 900 in park. So i went ahead and bumped up the rpms today just to test the boat. I honestly do the like feeling of the 900 and 800 rpms but car started to over heat. It made its way up to 208 with ac on. Of course, minute i shut off the ac, it started dropping which once again im dealing with a ac compressor overloading issue because it failing or my condensor is blocking air flow because the fins are shoot closed in certain spots.

Trying to find the time to install these parts already.

[crownvic05]

Can higher rpm really cause an overheating issue with cams?

[sailsmen]

When it's over 95* from 20mph to 40mph my coolant temp will exceed 210*. If I turn the A/C off it stays below 200*.

The problem is airflow. The condensor's job is to dissipate heat, which it does onto the radiator.

[MyBlackBeasts]

Can higher rpm really cause an overheating issue with cams?

No, unless the air flow for rad is restricted.

[crownvic05]

Ive been super busy. Still have to install the a/c compressor and condenser, I'm still trying to figure out if there can be anything esle wrong. Last thing I want is to install these parts and have the same issue going on.
Looking at all Ive done to car after the engine build, I believe I never mentioned the AUX B&M trans cooler I have installed in line with the factory trans cooler. Not sure to the where you guys that have installed an aux cooler would install it but, I installed mine right in front of the A/C condenser on the passenger side hanging off the rad support. wondering if this can be my issue now.

Can the aux cooler be getting really hot, throwing all that extra heat onto the ac condenser causing the fan to blow all that extra heat onto the engine making it over heat? Maybe the aux cooler is installed wrong?
I guess i have a few things to check