DR rear engine cooling mod leak

[Svashtar]

My first day of a long-planned vacation, so naturally the MM springs a leak! I never should have done the DR rear engine cooling mod I guess, but when I had the tranny out in 2005 it seemed like a good idea. (As those hoses fail back there they’re going to cost me a fortune...)

Anyway, looks like it’s at a cluster of three hoses joined by a plastic tee at the passenger side of the engine, and it looks like the bottom hose, the one oriented more vertically. I’m guessing it’s a 1/2” tee? I remember Fastblackmerc mentioning he changed those out for brass tees.

Anyway, I’ve been in here twice before to do the blower motor speed control, but not this far down. I don’t know if it’s a cracked tee or bad hose. Here’s a couple of pics:

I can pull off the heater hoses coming out of the firewall, as well as get the EGR solenoid out of the way to make room, but still not much room to work.

Changing the tee would be easier than changing this hose; I have no idea how I’m going to get down there to replace that if it’s the problem.

Thanks for any access tips here, (as well as any leads on where I could find a correct sized brass tee.)50652

50653

[justbob]

Pull the wiper cowl. 10 minute job with a phillips and an 8mm. TONS of room await you.


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[Svashtar]

Pull the wiper cowl. 10 minute job with a phillips and an 8mm. TONS of room await you.


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Bob, no offense, but are you pulling my leg? [emoji6]. The wiper cowl? But that doesn’t move the position of the firewall, which seems to be the limiting factor. (?) That AC box is also in the way.

But OK, thanks, not the first time you’ve saved my ass. I never considered the cowl as anything that would give space inside the engine compartment. I’ll look for screws and try and figure out how to remove it and see if I can figure it out from there. Thanks again.


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[justbob]

It’s step one to doing anything back there.

Remove wiper arms
Remove the Phillips screws from the top section.
Remove the clips holding the upper cowl to lower cowl on the front edge
Remove upper cowl
Remove a few 8mm bolts
Disconnect harness and washer hose and lift out the lower cowl

Believe me it is way easier than it sounds. 2-3 minutes tops with a 1/4” battery impact after you’ve done it once. If you have trees and park outside removing the upper and cleaning out the lower drain is yearly maintenance.

As for the Tee, most hardware stores will carry brass barbed tees or even pex tees will work fine.

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[Mr. Man]

Take your time removing the screws and clips. They have a mind of their own, some like to jump in behind the motor. Been there done that. :mad2:

[Svashtar]

It’s step one to doing anything back there.

Remove wiper arms
Remove the Phillips screws from the top section.
Remove the clips holding the upper cowl to lower cowl on the front edge
Remove upper cowl
Remove a few 8mm bolts
Disconnect harness and washer hose and lift out the lower cowl

Believe me it is way easier than it sounds. 2-3 minutes tops with a 1/4” battery impact after you’ve done it once. If you have trees and park outside removing the upper and cleaning out the lower drain is yearly maintenance.

As for the Tee, most hardware stores will carry brass barbed tees or even pex tees will work fine.

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Thanks for the good info. I always wondered about all the twigs and leaves accumulating there, and have tried to clean them out without removing anything. I don’t park under a tree, but still stuff gets picked up and ends up coming out by the lower fender. Wish I had known about this the first time I did the BMSC.

I suspect it’s the hose, but then don’t know why it would fail so bad. I got a big cloud of smoke coming out of the engine when it failed and sprayed coolant all over the exhaust manifold. It does get hotter back there than most areas of the engine.

I was scared at first as I noticed lots of coolant coming down from the mid-center lower back of the engine, no way I can get back there, but I figure it’s just running down the heater hose from the right side. I’ll find out tomorrow, and report back on the job.


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[Svashtar]

Take your time removing the screws and clips. They have a mind of their own, some like to jump in behind the motor. Been there done that. :mad2:

Thanks, appreciate that! I’ll be working out in light rain tomorrow trying to feel my way, and that’s the last thing I need.


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[Svashtar]

Got to this yesterday when it finally stopped raining and warmed up. Couple of things:

1. Getting the wiper arms off for the first time was a *****, mostly because you can’t lift the arm more than an inch or so, and the clips were pretty stuck after 16 years. Luckily after I pulled them off I found two little metal pieces laying down in the cowl on each side that are supposed to fit in a groove in the mount. I’m thinking about using a dab of adhesive to keep them from falling out when I reinstall.

2. I can’t believe how much junk was down in that lower cowl! I swear there was 2” of mud, mixed with leaves and twigs, so there was no drainage at all. I’m glad Bob suggested it be removed for that alone. The extra space helped.

By the way, two of the metal clips holding the cowl weren’t even there, and one of the plastic tabs on the upper cowl was destroyed. I think they overtightened it at the factory. I snapped off what’s left and will have to get by without it. Don’t know what happened to the clips. I’ll have to look for those online, or maybe I can make some.

3. That tee is the most inaccessible place in the car. Luckily the tee had broken off at the bottom, which is why it was leaking. Because of that I was able to remove the three hoses in sections. I had to cut it off two of the tee barbs. It would have been harder if the tee was intact.

And when all these fittings were installed, they were put in from the underside and back while the tranny was out. Guess which way the wings on the hose spring clamps were facing!? No easy way to get pliers on them. A half-hour each just to get them up the hose, then another half-hour each to get the stuck hoses off the bibs.

4. The insulation cover on top of the A/C box is toast. I finally pulled off what’s left of it and tossed it. There’s still coverage on the sides. Can’t be helped, and hope it doesn’t matter too much for A/C operation.

5. The walls of the new Gates heater hose are thinner than the 14 year old stuff by almost a 10th of an inch. That’s good for spacing and room, bad because a couple of the old spring clamps are now too loose. I ordered new ones on Amazon, as well as Dorman 5/8” x 5/8” x 5/8” metal universal heater hose tees. I suppose you could use those brass barbed hose tees, but I think those are for like garden hoses or general plumbing. All the auto parts store had was plastic tees, and the hardware stores the brass barbed tees.

6. I’m going to try and make the new bottom hoses longer to stand up off the bibs more, putting the tee higher. It’s too hard to access behind the head as it is.

7. The plastic on the broken off tee section was in small broken pieces down in the hose, completely disintegrated by the heat back there. I’ll never use a plastic tee again for coolant, and am replacing the other still intact plastic tee in the system.

8. Yes, I know I’m a long-winded SOB. [emoji6]. I’ve got a couple more projects going while I wait 2 days for the parts that I’ll post about, but thanks (to Bob) for help with this one!



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[musclemerc]

I only use brass fittings on anything radiator fluid related.

Go to home depot or lowes and get a PEX 3/4" T fitting.

I found these to be better than a barbed fitting.

dont forget to burp the system when your done!

[Svashtar]

I only use brass fittings on anything radiator fluid related.

Go to home depot or lowes and get a PEX 3/4" T fitting.

I found these to be better than a barbed fitting.

dont forget to burp the system when your done!

Thanks! I went to both Home Depot and Lowe’s last night and couldn’t find the correct size fitting. I guess it’s a terminology thing, but the ones I saw were what I call barbed, but only up to 1/2”. I got someone who tried to sell me another plastic one saying that’s all they had, so gave up. (It would have to be 5/8” anyway, right? All the heater hose under there is 5/8” / 15.9mm). I ordered these from Napa for Thursday delivery.

Don’t know how durable they are compared to pex, but we’ll see; they should work OK:

https://tinyurl.com/rgthhgs




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[BUCKWHEAT]

missing clips are free at the junkyard. CV's & GM's should be the same. find a good cowl cover & buy from the junkyard. take old wiper cover for a visual comparison. junkyard will have lots of silver a/c cover insulation.

[justbob]

No need for the A/C insulation. I ripped it all off years ago and never noticed a difference.

I gave up on the wiper pins years ago myself. Matter of fact my wiper arms now reside somewhere in the garage. [emoji6]

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[Svashtar]

missing clips are free at the junkyard. CV's & GM's should be the same. find a good cowl cover & buy from the junkyard. take old wiper cover for a visual comparison. junkyard will have lots of silver a/c cover insulation.

You would think so; I visited junkyards for years in multiple California locations and got a wide variety of good parts for reasonable prices, for everything from old Mopar stuff to lots of foreign cars. But the large pick ‘n pull here with “thousands of fresh cars” (their literal words) makes their money by selling $3 admission to the mausoleum. There are hundreds of stripped frames, that’s about it. Frankly there are so many illegals here driving wrecks that any older junker car is stripped down to the frame of all parts immediately.


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[Svashtar]

No need for the A/C insulation. I ripped it all off years ago and never noticed a difference.

I gave up on the wiper pins years ago myself. Matter of fact my wiper arms now reside somewhere in the garage. [emoji6]

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Thanks for the confirmation on the insulation. I won’t worry about it. It’s would be messy to trim and fit new sections of it anyway, and the sides are covered. The stuff has been degrading for years, and coolant does a number on it.

You don’t have wipers on your car? I couldn’t get away with that here year round. The design is clever, but I don’t know why they bothered with separate pins in the arm socket instead of just making them a permanent part of the assembly.

It was actually a miracle I spotted them laying down in the cowl after the arms popped off. I don’t think the arms would stay on without them.


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[justbob]

Thanks for the confirmation on the insulation. I won’t worry about it. It’s would be messy to trim and fit new sections of it anyway, and the sides are covered. The stuff has been degrading for years, and coolant does a number on it.

You don’t have wipers on your car? I couldn’t get away with that here year round. The design is clever, but I don’t know why they bothered with separate pins in the arm socket instead of just making them a permanent part of the assembly.

It was actually a miracle I spotted them laying down in the cowl after the arms popped off. I don’t think the arms would stay on without them.


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They work fine without. It was popular early on to toss them in the trash and clock the arms lower under the hood to conceal them.


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[Svashtar]

They work fine without. It was popular early on to toss them in the trash and clock the arms lower under the hood to conceal them.


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Interesting. I didn’t know that. So they basically act as hard stops for the wipers then I guess? It would be easier to get the wipers off if I could lift them higher, and that means getting them down below the hood line, so I’ll give it a try.


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[Mr. Man]

You don’t have wipers on your car? I couldn’t get away with that here year round. The design is clever, but I don’t know why they bothered with separate pins in the arm socket instead of just making them a permanent part of the assembly.

It was actually a miracle I spotted them laying down in the cowl after the arms popped off. I don’t think the arms would stay on without them.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkThe pins are used as guides during the assembly process to align the wipers of each car in the same position. No second guessing by line workers after the 3 martini lunch break.

[Svashtar]

The pins are used as guides during the assembly process to align the wipers of each car in the same position. No second guessing by line workers after the 3 martini lunch break.

Of course, should have thought of that. They’d be all over the windshield otherwise.


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[Svashtar]

This is what I spent 4 hours today trying to do: fit a 4” 5/8” piece of heater hose over that lower bib (the black one.)

I don’t know if that bib is OEM or the rear engine cooling mod routing, but whoever designed it only needed to move it maybe an inch upwards (towards the upper bib) for it to be accessible. As it is there’s no damned way I can find to get the hose on it because the AC box is on the way. What a *****.

I’ve tried everything I know. I get the hose on the bib maybe 1” after an hour of work, but can’t get it down the rest of the way. The mouth of it is practically buried in the A/C box insulation. And inch shorter would have also worked. Lousy design assumed you’d never have to change the hose I guess.

I’ve tried soaping it, armor all, etc. Actually thinking about using 3/4” hose and hoping the clamps will keep it from leaking.

Any tips are welcome. (I’ve already thought of parting the car out. [emoji6])

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191231/51d28dbf6aa524fa5062cf178376d0 f4.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191231/8041895d2029ecc366afd358a237f5 77.jpg




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[Svashtar]

I need to find something super slippery for both surfaces. Maybe some STP, or case lube?

I’ll also put a spring clamp in the middle to keep it from kinking.

Try again tomorrow...


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[bigmerc'03]

i boiled my hose to soften it up before i slipped it on it didnt wanna go all the way down but enough to clamp it down with no leaks

[justbob]

I need to find something super slippery for both surfaces. Maybe some STP, or case lube?

I’ll also put a spring clamp in the middle to keep it from kinking.

Try again tomorrow...


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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191231/acaaa8678bcc1042d9e8caa5072517 39.jpg

Always seems to bring a smile in a deep, dark, dull, and dry moment. TMI? [emoji1303]


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[Svashtar]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20191231/acaaa8678bcc1042d9e8caa5072517 39.jpg

Always seems to bring a smile in a deep, dark, dull, and dry moment. TMI? [emoji1303]


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LOL! That might actually work, and is water soluble to boot!

You know, 40 years ago when I used to run a Coates machine in a tire shop, we had this incredibly slick rubber lube we used to put on the inside bead of the tire before remounting the tire. That’s what I need, but this stuff might be close.

Thanks for the tip on boiling, I was going to try a heat gun, but that might work better.


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[musclemerc]

Just so you know the heater core fittings are not 5/8" hence the reason your struggling to get a 5/8" hose over the fitting.

Why not get the correct reducing hose intended for the fittings?

[Svashtar]

Just so you know the heater core fittings are not 5/8" hence the reason your struggling to get a 5/8" hose over the fitting.

Why not get the correct reducing hose intended for the fittings?

Uh, sorry, that is? I removed a broken 5/8” by 5/8” by 5/8” tee, that had three sections of 5/8” hose attached to it. That is, 5/8” is .625 and the ID of what I removed was .670, so I figured the extra was due to almost 15 years of stretching. So I made the assumption the new tee and hoses should be 5/8”.

The fact is the 5/8” hose fits perfectly on the other higher bib behind the head, and to the fitting on the firewall, although it is a tight fit there. Difference is, I have room to work.

I appreciate any info on what to ask for, as this is the first I’ve heard of a reducing hose.

Q: this bib is so poorly designed, and so inaccessible, butting right up to the AC, that I figured this was the DR cooling mod bib my mechanic installed. But evidently not? It’s the OEM heater fitting? It did have the OEM black coating on it.

So, I just need to ask for the OEM heater hose here? Then cut it to the new shorter length?

Here is the result of my work after another few hours today:

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200102/df1ea3211df8abd79e9860cec81c57 33.jpg

No kidding, I’m done with this stupid design. Life is too short. That’s as far down as I can get it. I’m afraid even with a larger inside diameter hose going over the bib, it’s still going to kink. What a *****y design.

Thanks for any info on the correct hose. I wouldn’t have known anything about a reducing hose if you hadn’t mentioned it.

(So that means that when it left the factory there was a single continuous hose from the firewall to this ***** of a bib, right? I know, Mr. Obvious, but I’ve had this setup almost since I bought the car 15 years ago...)




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[justbob]

IIRC one end of the OEM hose was 5/8” and the other was 3/4” with a prefabbed 90 molded in it to prevent kinking. If that is the case you would need to find an OEM hose or equivalent and cut into two pieces to make room for the tee where it aligns. Check diameters before taking my word..

Something else you could do for more room is to simply remove the 18MM nut from the bottom of the passenger side engine mount and lift it up to gain a couple of inches. Just be sure to wedge a good impact socket or something else sturdy under the mount and let the engine rest on it to avoid a busted hand. (Same trick to easily remove the cam covers.)

It’s been a good long while since I’ve done this plus my rear kit comes off the top freeze plugs right behind the intake so it’s routed differently plus I deleted the passenger steel pipe that runs up to the COT. But I do remember two different sizes used.

I myself just match up hoses in the back room of Advance and snip off what I don’t need and pitch it into my box of hoses. [emoji1303]

They know I only build Frankenstein crap and know me by first name..


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[Svashtar]

IIRC one end of the OEM hose was 5/8” and the other was 3/4” with a prefabbed 90 molded in it to prevent kinking. If that is the case you would need to find an OEM hose or equivalent and cut into two pieces to make room for the tee where it aligns. Check diameters before taking my word..

Something else you could do for more room is to simply remove the 18MM nut from the bottom of the passenger side engine mount and lift it up to gain a couple of inches. Just be sure to wedge a good impact socket or something else sturdy under the mount and let the engine rest on it to avoid a busted hand. (Same trick to easily remove the cam covers.)

It’s been a good long while since I’ve done this plus my rear kit comes off the top freeze plugs right behind the intake so it’s routed differently plus I deleted the passenger steel pipe that runs up to the COT. But I do remember two different sizes used.

I myself just match up hoses in the back room of Advance and snip off what I don’t need and pitch it into my box of hoses. [emoji1303]

They know I only build Frankenstein crap and know me by first name..


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Thanks, it makes a lot more sense now. I wish I could have salvaged the old hose section, but it had the busted tee section down in it in pieces and had to be removed, so got torn up. I’ll look for the OEM hose and hopefully they still make it. I imagine it would be the same for all CV’s and GM’s, at least I hope so.

That’s also a good trick on the engine mount; literally 2” would be enough, but I’d rather use the OEM hose if possible, measure twice and cut once and put the tee in the correct location. Once I get the hose over that lower bib the rest will be easy.

I’d like to just cut a custom hose like you do, but want to make sure I get the right diameters on each end here.


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[Svashtar]

This looks like it here. I feel like a moron wasting so much time trying to get 5/8” hose to fit, and should have ordered this last week:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/mercury,2003,marauder,4.6l+v8, 1387829,heat+&+air+conditioning,heater+hose+/+pipe,6892

(Link isn’t working, it’s part no. DAYCO 87604.)

This is described as a “dual ID” hose so fits the description; hopefully the 3/4” bottom end will make it over the bib easier.

Thanks musclemerc for letting me know.

[musclemerc]

If you need a brass coupler (I'm saying it again) go to home depot or lowes and ask for a 3/4" PEX coupler

Before you ask 3/4" PEX = 5/8" barb

[gdmjoe]

https://www.gdmjoe.com/icons/lightbulb.gif If the hose is anything like that for a Crown Victoria or Grand Marquis you may want to consider FoMoCo's severe service alternatives. *Though NOT inexpensive.

One of these ...


https://d354nuoz4t18d4.cloudfront.net/images/996a7fa078cc36c46d02f9af3bef91 8b/353b3e1d2c91340416618021651085 aa.jpg?cb=1577902705
*Part # 3W7Z-18472-AC

-or-

https://d354nuoz4t18d4.cloudfront.net/images/996a7fa078cc36c46d02f9af3bef91 8b/b099033f769e74b1981f33e1d52ad3 51.jpg?cb=1577902705
*Part # 3W7Z-18472-AD

.

[Svashtar]

If you need a brass coupler (I'm saying it again) go to home depot or lowes and ask for a 3/4" PEX coupler

Before you ask 3/4" PEX = 5/8" barb

Thanks, but I have the Dorman 5/8” x 5/8” x 5/8” tees, which work fine. They’re meant for heater hose, and were easy to install and more importantly to remove.


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[Svashtar]

https://www.gdmjoe.com/icons/lightbulb.gif If the hose is anything like that for a Crown Victoria or Grand Marquis you may want to consider FoMoCo's severe service alternatives. *Though NOT inexpensive.

One of these ...


https://d354nuoz4t18d4.cloudfront.net/images/996a7fa078cc36c46d02f9af3bef91 8b/353b3e1d2c91340416618021651085 aa.jpg?cb=1577902705
*Part # 3W7Z-18472-AC

-or-

https://d354nuoz4t18d4.cloudfront.net/images/996a7fa078cc36c46d02f9af3bef91 8b/b099033f769e74b1981f33e1d52ad3 51.jpg?cb=1577902705
*Part # 3W7Z-18472-AD

.

Thanks, I’m set now, but if these are dual ID they would work well.


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[musclemerc]

Thanks, but I have the Dorman 5/8” x 5/8” x 5/8” tees, which work fine. They’re meant for heater hose, and were easy to install and more importantly to remove.


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Out of curiosity how are you routing the cooling mod?
in/out

[Svashtar]

So, here’s some final observations, in case anyone else ever goes through this mess. Based on the responses I’m guessing that this hasn’t been a replacement issue yet for most people. What you need to reproduce the rear engine cooling mod setup back behind the head on the passenger side:

(I didn’t know this because I just dumped the parts off with my mechanic to install when he did my trans rebuild right after I bought the car, and have no recollection of what the OEM setup looked like.)

The OEM hose referenced above (Dayco 87604) is a 3/4” to 5/8” reduction hose that’s 13” long. It has a 4.5” section starting at 3/4” then turns 90 degrees for another 11” or so, down to 5/8” meant to go (I’m assuming because that’s the only place I can see it fits) from the 3/4” heater inlet bib on the firewall to the 5/8” bib behind the engine. (Please correct me if I’m missing something.)

That means that the poorly designed 3/4” bib up against the A/C that I fought with, incorrectly assuming it was a 5/8” diameter, must be the rear engine cooling mod bib?

So the only way this can go together is:

1) 3/4” to 5/8” reduction hose from the firewall to the 5/8” left leg of the tee, about 8” of hose;

2) 5/8” to 5/8” hose from the right leg of the tee to the highest 5/8” bib behind the engine, about 3.5” of hose;

3) 3/4” to 5/8” reduction hose from the poorly placed extreme angle lower 3/4” bib stupidly placed 1/4” from the A/C to the 5/8” bottom leg of the tee, about 4.25” of hose.

I found two things: the original 3/4” hose from the firewall to the left leg of the tee was cut nearly 3” too long. That forced it into a hump that pressed into the A/C power connection, putting a severe dent into it, and

The 3/4” to 5/8” portion of hose from the lower bib by the A/C to the bottom tee still has a slight kink in it; the angle is too extreme and I’m jamming a straight piece of hose onto it. The A/C box is in the way and it has no room to straighten; but the piece I replaced was curved with no kink, so I don’t know where it came from. Part of the RECM I assume. Still, the new hose should work, and maybe pressure will open it up a bit more.

Napa had the OEM hose to the firewall, but I cut it for the bottom 3/4” bib and didn’t want to pay $22 for a second one, so reused the original upper hose for now, after cutting 3” off the 5/8” end. It looks fine and fits better now. I’ll pick up a new one for $8 from Rockauto as a spare.

Finally, I fought for an hour to remove and later hours to replace the spring clamps on the lower hose, one larger diameter down at the 3/4” bib, one smaller diameter at the top where it meets the 5/8” bottom leg of the tee. Depending on where the clamp wings were placed, they either tore up the A/C box or were in the way, there was no room for snap ring pliers, and regular pliers tore up the back of the valve cover.

I finally just went with regular hose clamps, and used a 12” 1/4” drive extension with an 8 mm wobbly to tighten them. Seems obvious now, but they give way more room and took maybe 5 minutes to install both. The old spring clamps were installed from the underside I guess, and I shouldn’t have wasted time with them.

If you ever have to replace these hoses do it one hose, one clamp at a time, starting with the bottom hose, feeding the tee in as you go. Don’t try to assemble the three hoses on the tee and do it together.

If I had to do it again I figure 60-90 minutes tops, but I’d know to start with the right hoses for a start.

Oh, I figured out that the way it was routed before put continuous side pressure on the bottom leg of the plastic tee, so it’s no wonder it broke there.

Thanks to everybody for their input. I’m putting the cowls back now and will burp the system, and keep my fingers crossed nothing leaks.

Here’s a pic of the assembly with the new hoses and tee.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200103/7da2a79887aee28b770a2d100d20b5 bc.jpg






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[justbob]

Glad to see you won!


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[Svashtar]

Glad to see you won!


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Thanks for your help! Especially the info on the wiper cowls. Just getting rid of 3 lbs of dirt and leaves was worth it, not to mention the extra room.

By the way, this upper tee assembly (in the attached pic) was also changed out for a metal tee, which took just a couple of minutes.

It got me thinking though, that center hose that disappears behind the engine and over to the drivers side? No idea exactly what it’s routing water for, but I dread the day that guy finally gives out, because I don’t see how it could be changed without lifting up the engine to get behind it. Looks like it’s cable tied off in a couple places as well.

But I’ll deal with that when the time comes. Tomorrow, it’s fixing the drivers side door actuator (the door rivet failed.). I did the passenger side last year. Funny thing: the inside door panel was full of garbage and old rivet heads LOL! The SOB who installed everything emptied his pockets into the door panel rather than using the trash. (After all, at Ford, QUALITY IS JOB 1! :-))

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200104/752e4978d50e75f61d9143d7b72e24 2e.jpg


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[Paul]

It got me thinking though, that center hose that disappears behind the engine and over to the drivers side? No idea exactly what it’s routing water for, but I dread the day that guy finally gives out, because I don’t see how it could be changed without lifting up the engine to get behind it. Looks like it’s cable tied off in a couple places as well.




IIRC, that hose reaches to a similar bib/outlet (to the passenger side) on the back of the driver's head and passes by the egr tube. Mine baked and eventually cracked due to heat from that. You can replace it by feel without lifting the motor. I sleeved mine in a heatshield tube when I replaced it and routed it away from the egr as best I could. I recommend adding extra/new cable ties to keep yours well away from it.

[Svashtar]

IIRC, that hose reaches to a similar bib/outlet (to the passenger side) on the back of the driver's head and passes by the egr tube. Mine baked and eventually cracked due to heat from that. You can replace it by feel without lifting the motor. I sleeved mine in a heatshield tube when I replaced it and routed it away from the egr as best I could. I recommend adding extra/new cable ties to keep yours well away from it.

Thanks for the info. I can look down the length of it from the left and see it cable tied off in at least two places underneath, and it just looks like a ***** to access. That you did it is reassuring, but I assume you had to take a lot off the top of the engine? I looked at the drivers side and couldn’t spot the bib it runs to.

I’ll look at mine in relation to the egr tube. Moving it away from there and sheathing it is a good idea. I changed out my EGR a year ago, so hopefully it’s running cooler in any case.


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[Paul]

I did it by feel, didn't even remove the wiper cowl. I don't remember for sure, but probably used my cell phone to take pictures back there to see what was what. Definitely did not remove the upper intake or even disconnect the egr. Maybe the bracket around it, but not the pipe. Of course, it was done at the same time as the other hoses back there, so they were out and that gave room. Also the fuel vapor solenoid thing was out.