6R80 Swap

[376shovel]

Gents the purpose of this thread will be to document my progress as I complete a 6R80 swap in my 2003. Maybe this helps someone down the road.

I'm taking a little break after working on my Chevelle so much by giving my neglected Marauder some much needed upgrades.

Here are the reasons I have decided to do this swap, in no particular order:

-Performance improvement
-MPG increase, especially when I reinstall my OG 3.55s
-chance to eliminate the low load ticking which must be the flexplate at this point. (entirely new engine, but kept the flexplate which I believe has a hairline crack)
-eliminate poor performance due to the used aftermarket torque converter I got for free. Yes, it is my fault for not having it cut open.

(read some of my old threads for more history on my car's issues.


Here are the parts I have gathered:

-2012 F150 6R80 with 90k on it, with stock converter, flexplate, all bolts, and engine spacer/shim $475
-quick 6 controller I bought brand new in the box for $700 on facebook
-8an line and fittings $150
-8an line adapter plate $60
-trans cooler from 2009 expedition $65
-driveshaft from 2009 explorer 4.6 2wd $150
-1 inch aluminum driveshaft spacer with ARP hardware $80
-12 quarts mercon LV, new filter, and new valve body module connector $110
-stiffler's 6R80 mount $45
-MartyO updated tune $175


-Modified stock crossmember (still in progress)



My plan is to do this in a couple weeks. I will be taking some pictures and sharing my experience after. I have 4.10s now, but I plan to put 3.55s back in for MPG and to keep the gear usable for my combo. We'll see once I drive it for a little while.

[03Merc]

Good luck! Very interested on the swap!


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[376shovel]

Here is a picture of the car and some of the parts involved in the swap.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/6fd04dc79dac5432a3ec6f208b7ec9 a3.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/265da87525080c1329499d58a3b21a cb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/bc28cc6c0a49a2cb4557ac88ff279c 9a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/eab843c66929ad522d3a04dd8f814a b5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/6e0b24f0d065a8292b83f2cd45f6da 9a.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/5001eeaaf4ad7e695e8d37a337f9de 8c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/3e840040f6b60d73ffb70d7ea12dba c6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/add511667f898319c21e516f2d1fe2 45.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200503/4ace7301e4cd9a2dc20e51bba91c8e bf.jpg

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[blazen71]

Subscribed. This is the route I’m going to go if my 4R75W bites the dust

[gdmjoe]

376shovel ... < pic of Dorman 918-254 Automatic Transmission Cooler >
You may (?) want to consider the desert version of the F-150 6R80 - part # DL3Z-7A095-B (https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-oil-cooler-asy-dl3z7a095b) (9-row verses 4-row) *TASCA link.


50839

[376shovel]

You may (?) want to consider the desert version of the F-150 6R80 - part # DL3Z-7A095-B (https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-oil-cooler-asy-dl3z7a095b) (9-row verses 4-row) *TASCA link.


50839
Good find. The factory 2012 f150 cooler is 4 row. The expedition is 6 row, which is the one i got. I did not know about the 9 row, but if i have trouble managing trans temp (which i don't believe i will with a stock converter and a lighter vehicle) i will swap to that one.

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[RocsMerc]

Does the 2012 6r80 have the 2 bolt starter mount or the 3 bolt starter mount? I've been considering this swap for a while and the main issue I hit when researching this swap is the starter.

The two bolt starter has different teeth which requires a different flex plate. The compatible flex plate is 8 bolt not 6 bolt. The Marauder has a 6 bolt crank. The 8 bolt crank from the manual 03-04 Mach 1 mustangs should work, but now that would mean a crank swap and probably a full engine rebuild that I would like to avoid. I've heard that the 6r80 installed in the Mustangs has the 3 bolt starter, but I'm not sure if this is true and I have yet to see photo evidence of this elusive 3 bolt starter on a 6r80 anywhere on the internet.

[376shovel]

Does the 2012 6r80 have the 2 bolt starter mount or the 3 bolt starter mount? I've been considering this swap for a while and the main issue I hit when researching this swap is the starter.

The two bolt starter has different teeth which requires a different flex plate. The compatible flex plate is 8 bolt not 6 bolt. The Marauder has a 6 bolt crank. The 8 bolt crank from the manual 03-04 Mach 1 mustangs should work, but now that would mean a crank swap and probably a full engine rebuild that I would like to avoid. I've heard that the 6r80 installed in the Mustangs has the 3 bolt starter, but I'm not sure if this is true and I have yet to see photo evidence of this elusive 3 bolt starter on a 6r80 anywhere on the internet.3 bolt starter. If you like yo starter, u can keep yo starter. Im using the flexplate that came with the 6r80 tho.

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[376shovel]

Update: Tomorrow is the day I start the swap. Here is a picture of my modified crossmember, before i drill a hole for the ttans mount.


Also, be aware, the 6r80 flexplate is for an 8 bolt crank. I have a 6 bolt crank so i plan to use the new 2005 aviator replacement flexplate i have sitting around. It is the same tooth count and thickness as the 6r80 flexplate.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200522/d0f152f9c8f5647588da03270d00b9 91.jpg

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[376shovel]

Alright gents here is an update for you. The 4r70w is out. The 6r80 is in. The explorer driveshaft was direct bolt in with a 1 inch spacer. I had to trim a tiny bit more off the front of the crossmember and drill the hole for the new mount. I reused the original driveshaft bolts to bolt the new deiveshaft to the transmission side, and i used the ARP bolts that came with the spacer to attach it to the differential.

The torque converter used 4 m10x1.0 nuts.

The factory shifter cable works well with the f150 style cable bracket i got with the trans. The shift lever bracket that the previous owner of the trans made WORKS, but in the future i will likely buy the pbh piece as i like the bushing style better than lock washers.

The factory starter bolts up as normal.

I used the factory marauder style flexplate.

I made the trans lines out of 8an ptfe lined nylon hose. We made and mounted a bracket to hold the new trans cooler onto the front support brace. More pics to follow on that once i get it cleaned up and a more permanent install.

Everything was pretty straightforward and easy. I used 6 bellhousing bolts from the 6r80 f150 application. I then used 1 original bellhousing bolt on the drivers side, the one with the stud at the end, to hold the o2 sensor wiring bracket in place

The new tune was loaded, the 6r80 controller was wired up. Side note it is a bitchhhh to get to the pcm wiring and splice/solder/heat shrink the required wires. The small space and no excess length make it difficult.

We drilled a 3/4 hole through the firewall, next to the pcm, to run the harness through.

I tried to start the car for the moment of truth...turn the key and nothing happens. I have attached a wiring diagram to show that you need to jump wires 10 and 12 together off the original trans range sensor to make the pcm think it is on park or neutral. I found this out after.

Right now the car is about 30 mins away and i won't be able to get over to it for a couple days, so i have to wait until then to jump the wires and hopefully drive it home.

Updates to follow.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/f53c0723be0d8575eb6b36b7791c90 a8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/39e27cfaafb31597617bac97c527aa 2b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/134120efa6722695e6bc0c47e228b4 95.jpg

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[376shovel]

Looks like these didn't upload.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/b7cdab34c4d810997532bb44f07721 85.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/3e8f6cd01d2995cb169a73363eafee 91.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200525/9bda2768d537b8248d88ddfa02d047 88.jpg

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[03Merc]

Very interested in how it drives! 3.55 gears in the back?


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[376shovel]

Very interested in how it drives! 3.55 gears in the back?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro4.10s for now. I have 3.55s on the shelf so we'll see. I will likely go back to a larger tire too. I used to have 255 55s before going to the stock size

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[vkirkend]

Following.....

[justbob]

Great job!


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[376shovel]

Alright boys, i was able to get the car home. Wires 10 and 12 need ro be connected ro bypass the DTR sensor to allow the car to start. Also, the pcm MUST be connected with the starter relay circuit, including the quick 6 as the manual states. My connection was *****y so it took me a while to narrow this down.


https://youtu.be/dToRJL62om0

So i have some issues:

Right now i am in the process of figuring out how to wire the reverse lights. As of now on the DTR sensor, i have pins 9, 11, and the quick 6 box connected and reverse lights are on all the time, key on. I tried hooking 11 straight to the controller box but it did not work. Next i will hook 9 direct to the controller box and see what happens.

I am also gwtting a prndl out of range error which i assume is the shoddy trans selector lever. The new PBH lever will be here tomorrow.

Also, does anyone know where i need to plug this box into to get my speedometer to work?

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[376shovel]

I think i should be hooking to either pin 68 on the pcm, or to the OSS on the transmission harness. More to follow.

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[376shovel]

I think i should be hooking to either pin 68 on the pcm, or to the OSS on the transmission harness. More to follow.

Sent from my SM-G930U using TapatalkPin 68 was the answer. After entering a correction factor of 0.065 in the tuning software, my car speedometer reads perfectly.

I temporarily rigged a bracket, because i am impatient, to give me park reverse and drive, for today only. Ive been driving the car around for a few hours tuning shift points and the torque converter.

Manutronic mode does not work yet...i will check the wiring again.

When i go wot, i bounce off the limiter, and it's like the car is in neutral, until it shifts. I think it is a problem in the programming. Part throttle the car drives FANTASTIC. It feels so much more stout. I will continue to work issues and update this post.

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[justbob]

I’ll see if I can dig up my notes from my manual swap. I know I had to pretty much make my own trans harness to get the car to start, reverse lights, speed sensor, and in my case reverse lock out feature along with 8 trans codes.


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[boom boom]

This is the transmission harness notes from my manual swap for the 300A, not sure if anything changed.



Circuit
Wire
Circuit
Ending
Marauder Trans
Marauder
Marauder Ending
Marauder Ending
Notes


Number
Color
Description
Connector Location
Connector
Pin Number
Connector
Pin Number



262
BN/PK
Starter Relay, Output (Voltage Supplied In Start)
Starter Relay (DTR)
C1221
1
C167
12



126
VT/YE
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) Solenoid
Automatic Transmission
C1221
2
C1274
2



390
TN/YE
HEGO #22 Heater
HEGO #22
C1221
3
C141
2



237
OG/YE
Shift Solenoid A
Automatic Transmission
C1221
4
C1274
7



925
WH/YE
Electronic Pressure Control (EPC) Solenoid (Auto)
Automatic Transmission
C1221
5
C1274
6



388
YE/LB
HEGO #21 Heater
HEGO #21
C1221
6
C172
2



94
RD/BK
HEGO #21 Input
HEGO #21
C1221
7
C172
4



389
WH/BK
HEGO #12 Heater
HEGO #12
C1221
8
C142
2



392
RD/LG
HEGO #12 Input
HEGO #12
C1221
9
C142
4



393
VT/LG
HEGO #22 Input
HEGO#22
C1221
10
C141
4







C1221
11





199
LB/YE
Digital Transmission Range Sensor - TR3A
Automatic Transmission (DTR)
C1221
12
C167
3



136
DB/YE
Output Shaft Speed (OSS) sensor (7H103)
Output Shaft Speed Sensor
C1221
13
C1107
2



315
VT/OG
Shift Solenoid B
Automatic Transmission
C1221
14
C1274
8



923
OG/BK
Transmission Fluid Temp (TFT) sensor, input (Auto)
Automatic Transmission
C1221
15
C1274
5



359
GY/RD
Signal Return
Various
C1221
16
C141, 142, C172, C167, C1107, C1274
3, 3, 3, 2, 1, 3



33
WH/PK
Hot in Start & Clutch Depressed/Park
Starter Relay
C133
1
C167
10



140
BK/PK
Voltage Supplied In Reverse
Reverse Lamps (DTR)
C133
2
C167
11



1143
WH/BK
Digital Transmission Range Sensor - TR4
Automatic Transmission (DTR)
C133
3
C167
6



1144
YE/BK
Digital Transmission Range Sensor - TR1
Automatic Transmission (DTR)
C133
4
C167
4







C133
5





391
RD/YE
Voltage Supplied in Start and Run, Overload Protected
Various
C133
6
C141, C142, C172, C1274`
1, 1, 1, 1



298
VT/OG
Voltage In Run (Overload Protected)
Automatic Transmission
C133
7
C167
9



1145
LB/BK
Digital Transmission Range Sensor - TR2
Automatic Transmission (DTR)
C133
8
C167
5

























295
LB/PK
Voltage In Run (Overload Protected)
Automatic Transmission




Source wire to Circuit 298 C133 Pin7


361
RD
Hot in Start and Run, Overload Protected
Various




Marauder Specific Incoming C1221 Pin10


387
RD/WH
HEGO #11 Heater
HEGO #11




Separate Right Bank O2 Connector

[376shovel]

Thanks guys i will dig into it more tomorrow. I found out my rpm issue. My tune file had my neutral rpm limit set to 5000. The car thinks im in neutral so that is the rpm it was going off of. Marty edited that part of the tune and bam. Im now shifting at 6400 rpm with no hitting the rev limiter. It feels super strong now!

Tomorrow i will put on the new shift lever, and hopefully solve the reverse lights as well as the manutronic mode. I should be back to daily driving this thing very soon. This swap has been some long hours but way worth it. The trans shifts firm and i have complete control over everything in it. I will be playing with locking up the converter in wot at the track hopefully this fall.

I will give u guys some videos at some point once i iron out on the little stuff.

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[martyo]

Glad we could help!!!

[376shovel]

Alright boys here's an update:

Reverse lights work, they needed to be wired to pin 11 on the DTR connector. Manutronic now works, i needed to take the cover off the quick 6 and remove the factory installed jumper from pin 5.

The PBH bracket DOES NOT WORK for this shifter cable setup. It is too short. The bracket that i got with the transmission is clearly a pbh shifter bracket modified, however it is too long. I will have to make my own bracket to reliably and consistently get each gear in the marauder shifter gates.

Last, enjoy this WOT video from a 20 mph roll.

https://youtu.be/2rWM5xDjTtI

[martyo]

Alright boys here's an update:

Reverse lights work, they needed to be wired to pin 11 on the DTR connector. Manutronic now works, i needed to take the cover off the quick 6 and remove the factory installed jumper from pin 5.

The PBH bracket DOES NOT WORK for this shifter cable setup. It is too short. The bracket that i got with the transmission is clearly a pbh shifter bracket modified, however it is too long. I will have to make my own bracket to reliably and consistently get each gear in the marauder shifter gates.

Last, enjoy this WOT video from a 20 mph roll.

https://youtu.be/2rWM5xDjTtI

Looks great!!

[03MERCMARAUDER]

Nice work. Has me considering going to a 6R80 now.


Joe

[376shovel]

Today i attempted to make a longer trans shift lever and this attempt failed because the bracket hits the trans tunnel. I just ordered the pbh shifter cable hold bracket for an f150 trans, and i will be trying to reroute the shifter cable to have it come from the rear. I will let you know if i am successful with that.

Also be advised the f150 torque converter is rated at 2200 stall speed, but that is for a 5500 lb vehicle. In my car, 1300 lb less, it seems to flash under 1500 rpm. I will be on the lookout for a stock mustang converter as they supposedly stall 2400-2700 in a 3600 lb car. Of course an aftermarket 3000 or so would be nice but there is no way im shelling out that kind of money for a converter right now.

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[blkZooM]

Yoo, Mike I found you on here.

[vkirkend]

I'm told this can drgp et's by 1/2 second....

[376shovel]

I'm told this can drgp et's by 1/2 second....We shall see here soon.



Also, i just picked up an eaton m112...

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[376shovel]

Gents, I installed the f150 bracket from pbh. First let me first say I am NOT impressed with this bracket. It looks like it was hand made, and not very well. For a little bit of work someone could have cnc'd this piece and improved upon it greatly.

Second, it did not fit as is. I needed to elongate the already slotted bolt holes to allow perfect adjustment on the shifter without creating a PRNDL out of range error on my controller.

The end result is I have it working great now, but still. 100 bucks for 2 brackets... one of which was really crappy and needed to be modified... You decide.



In other news I am quickly accumulating parts for an eaton swap. I only need brackets. An intake, and a 3.4ish pulley. I will be running this car at the track soon, so I will update you all with times NA. My buddy and I have an over under bet of 13.50 ET.

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[376shovel]

For all interested I will be hitting the track tomorrow for my last runs NA.

I will provide corrected times for runs tomorrow, as well as corrected times for my previous runs with the 4r70w.

Place your bets!

[vkirkend]

Pickup 3 tenths ET.

[blazen71]

I have no idea but am excited to hear how it does! Good luck.

[hotford]

Any updates from the track??

[376shovel]

Any updates from the track??Had some issues, then work and life got in the way. Right now I am swapping an eaton onto it.

The car may be for sale in the future.

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[dmjarosz]

I am DEFINITELY following this! Would be a great addition to an already awesome Eaton swapped Isabelle.

A have a few questions:

1) Why the -8AN fittings? Can you not just use the stock trans cooling system? I already have an aftermarket cooler installed to deal with increased heat from the Eaton swap. Will that be enough for the 6R80. Does the 6R80 generate any more heat than the 4R75?

2) How did you know how much to notch out of the crossmember? Your fab/welding work looks outstanding but I'm worried Id do the same and will have not notched it enough.

3) Is the MM crossmember same as CV and/or GM? I'm thinking junkyard crossmember and fab ahead of time.

4) Does anyone know the ratios for gears 1-4 on the 4R75 and 1-6 on the 6R80? I know I can look these up but if someone has them quickly on hand, I would appreciate the info. Reason I'm asking is even with the Eaton swap, I still wish the car had a little more low end grunt below 3500rpm. Right now 4:10's seem to be the solution (or more boost but that's a different animal) but Id still like to keep the highway drivability.

5) What torque converter? Kind of a loaded question right now since its application based and I need to learn my flexplate patterns, stall RPM stuff, etc before I start asking really difficult questions.

P.S. I get that life gets in the way, I STILL need to work with the Great Marty-O to finish my Eaton swap tune. Now that I have a shop to work on the car in the winter, hopefully things will go faster.

Edit: One more question:

6) The Quick 6 controller looks like an excellent solution but are there other controllers out there? $1250 is a pretty tall penny but on the other hand you do get what you pay for.

[376shovel]

You can't use a stock cooling system. The 6r80 requires a 1/2 inch or 8an line size. REQUIRED.

I eyeballed the crossmember based off of the silver bullet project pictures, then adjusted as necessary.

Yes the crown vic is the same crossmember. That's what I did.

U can easily search the 6r80 gear ratios. It's super nice to drive.

I used the complete 2012 f150, and in my opinion I would never use the f150 converter again. It is entirely too tight, I would aim for a 2015-2017 mustang converter. I'm hoping the supercharger mitigates that though with 150ish ft lbs more on tap.


Here are a couple progress pics as I slowly get it together.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201021/284614df95db32309dd4c8376388d7 19.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201021/3d023cc03abfdb78ab4bad11651a64 3e.jpg

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[Turbov6Bryan]

Awesome setup man. Keep us updated with more progress

[376shovel]

Awesome setup man. Keep us updated with more progressThank you. I'm not trying to be a world beater with it or anything, I just want it to be the fun car I think it should have been from the factory. Trying to keep the boost around 8 psi or so with my flat top pistons.

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[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Thank you. I'm not trying to be a world beater with it or anything, I just want it to be the fun car I think it should have been from the factory. Trying to keep the boost around 8 psi or so with my flat top pistons.

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Any chance on a final updated parts list? Nice build :cool:

[376shovel]

Any chance on a final updated parts list? Nice build :cool:Transmission specific?

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[justbob]

What is your pinion angle compared to stock? These cars with their long driveshafts will not tolerate much change at all in angles when you approach triple digits unless changes are made to the rear angle or adding a constant velocity joint at one end of the shaft.

My angle was off by ONE degree or less and smooth as silk until I hit 85/90 and with zero warning I’d warp the steel driveshaft I originally went with. The CV Aluminum replacement is so smooth that they allow for up to 8 degrees off in pinion angles.


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[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Transmission specific?

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Just wondering if the stuff listed on the first post still stands for the 6r80 and if anything was needed additionally that might not be listed through the thread.

[Turbov6Bryan]

I just subscribed to your YouTube page. Was that WOT video with the car still na? Can you make some dead stop WOT vids? That car seems to rip pretty damn good

[376shovel]

I just subscribed to your YouTube page. Was that WOT video with the car still na? Can you make some dead stop WOT vids? That car seems to rip pretty damn goodYeah, NA. I can once the eaton swap is done. My goal is to have it running and dyno ready in a couple weeks.

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[Turbov6Bryan]

Man. Makes me want that trans in my car. With 4.10 gears it looked like it was 40 ish mph when it did the 1-2 shift...
my 2011 50 Mustang with the six speed automatic and factory 319 gears . It would shift at 40mph 80mph and 120mph
but that was at 7,000 rpm. Any idea what it shift at mph wise now?

[Talal DTR MM]

Really, this makes me very interested in this swap.

- Do you have part no. or webstore for the 1 inch driveshaft spacer as I searched but didn't get same as above.

- The original marauder flexplate will fit with 6R80. Right?

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[376shovel]

Really, this makes me very interested in this swap.

- Do you have part no. or webstore for the 1 inch driveshaft spacer as I searched but didn't get same as above.

- The original marauder flexplate will fit with 6R80. Right?

Sent from my SM-N950F using Tapatalkhttps://youtu.be/d6clHnfo8n4

Check out his website in the description. Super friendly and helpful guy. His spacer came with arp hardware as well. Very nice piece.

Yes, original flexplate works fine.

[376shovel]

Man. Makes me want that trans in my car. With 4.10 gears it looked like it was 40 ish mph when it did the 1-2 shift...
my 2011 50 Mustang with the six speed automatic and factory 319 gears . It would shift at 40mph 80mph and 120mph
but that was at 7,000 rpm. Any idea what it shift at mph wise now?I honestly dont remember, but it is all programmable through the box. It's just plots on an X Y graph and you can fully customize every aspect about the transmission. I love it.

The only thing I have left to do with it is get my push button shifting working. This allows you to manually upshift or downshift using your cruise control buttons on your steering wheel. And yes, cruise control is still retained.

[376shovel]

Just an update, I put a new radiator in. I cut out the old transmission cooler for more airflow across the radiator (since I'm installing the heat exchanger soon). I left the brackets and the ps pump cooler in place.

I replaced the drivers side fender since it was rotting away, and it also looks like I will end up with belt size part number k080505 for the supercharger.


The eaton pulley definitely hits my hood insulation, so I will likely be cutting that out and maybe putting a sticker or a stencil of the mercury head on there. Something tasteful and minimal.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201105/7ef19b3f6aa5d8d726c115a0f4b824 d6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201105/093728276969e6ca1b24bef6f87f31 42.jpg

[376shovel]

Anyone have a recommendation on a replacement hood insulation material that isnt 150 bucks? Prefer for it to be black / neutral color.

I saw some from dei, anyone use that stuff?



Also, here are a couple updates from today. I have the intercooler pump mounted and wired. Battery tray is in, and I made brackets for the fuse box, which is in loosely until i figure out the final routing of the intake tube.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/1eba0c66e188cca96c2f8c87d4b81a bf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201111/862d185597683b9b0ce89d0cccb07a 3c.jpg

[RubberCtyRauder]

Wait til you see me what shipping is for hood pad. It's not rolled up..it's in a box almost size if hood. Get it from the dealer, they will get it with their stock order do no shipping $. Or spray paint yours satin black, it cleans it up decent, or go to pick n pull and grab one from a Marquis or vic

[376shovel]

Haha screw that. Part of the reason is the sag, it contacts the supercharger pulley. I was looking for something stick on like dynamat, with a focus on heat primarily, instead of sound.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Cut out a square hole where pulley rubs and live edges with rubber hose split down side to make a border. Somewhere there is a pic of that.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Marauder hood pad was thinner than CV, Marquis as theirs are for more sound deadening. I had my Marauder pad wrapped by Car Motorsports. But I also have 2.8 pulley so barely touches it. Ruined a brand new CV one as they are thicker, fluffy like.

[376shovel]

Anybody ever run into an issue where the fan controller contacts the body of the alternator?https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201112/c721639594888dc4a17cfb7677f83b e9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201112/727b40bcd3aa8c7cace710fff36d36 17.jpg

[Rafael]

I relocated my fan module 180° of its stock location because of the same issue. I suggest remounting it and running new wiring to it from the connector. If I can grab a picture of mine on Friday I’ll post it.

As for the 6r80 swap. I’m currently swapping mine. I pulled my motor out for a few new things/ upgrades to the whipple supercharger unit. Figured I’d ditch the 4r75w and do the 6r80 like you did. I’ll be very curious as to how it handles my 4.10 gears and the whipple/ comp cams.

Unfortunately I’m going slow and taking my time with it at the moment so it’ll probably be next year before I’m all said and done.

btw anyone looking for the 1” spacer that company is currently out of stock and won’t have any for another 2 months or so. I’m at a stand still with that last piece.

[376shovel]

I relocated my fan module 180° of its stock location because of the same issue. I suggest remounting it and running new wiring to it from the connector. If I can grab a picture of mine on Friday I’ll post it.

As for the 6r80 swap. I’m currently swapping mine. I pulled my motor out for a few new things/ upgrades to the whipple supercharger unit. Figured I’d ditch the 4r75w and do the 6r80 like you did. I’ll be very curious as to how it handles my 4.10 gears and the whipple/ comp cams.

Unfortunately I’m going slow and taking my time with it at the moment so it’ll probably be next year before I’m all said and done.

btw anyone looking for the 1” spacer that company is currently out of stock and won’t have any for another 2 months or so. I’m at a stand still with that last piece.Thanks man. A picture would be nice for sure.

Yes you will likely be dropping some gear, depending on your usage. I expect to be dropping back to 3.55s at some point honestly. I do a decent amount of highway driving , but we'll see what acceleration is like.

[baloneyhomie]

This is really cool. I'd like to something like this someday, get rid of that 4 speed slushbox and stick in an auto with more forward speeds.

[376shovel]

Current status for those following the eaton swap portion. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201112/4e46370340482e5bbf522e32efb510 45.jpg

[Turbov6Bryan]

This is so damn cool, i cant wait to hear reee reeeee reeeeeeeee noises!

[hotford]

Any updates...………….

[Rafael]

Curious to see if any updates have happened? I'm about to finish my 6R80 swap here shortly.

[justbob]

No update in almost four months = Fail


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[Seneca]

Curious to see if any updates have happened? I'm about to finish my 6R80 swap here shortly.

Oh really? I shall have many questions down the road..

[Taemian]

Curious to see if any updates have happened? I'm about to finish my 6R80 swap here shortly.

I would love to hear from either one of you on the 6R80 swap. Rafael, I have a sister car to yours.

My original trans with a JMod is long overdue to go south, it's a Trilogy car that still has the original trans that is starting to slip in the higher gear at WOT.

Also sending it in the shop for more boost via upgrading the pulley, currently running 11psi with stock Trilogy pulleys and ported/polished Eaton and lots of other intake flow mods.

Want/Need to find out if I just rebuild the 4R75w that's there, or do this swap!

[Rafael]

I would love to hear from either one of you on the 6R80 swap. Rafael, I have a sister car to yours.

My original trans with a JMod is long overdue to go south, it's a Trilogy car that still has the original trans that is starting to slip in the higher gear at WOT.

Also sending it in the shop for more boost via upgrading the pulley, currently running 11psi with stock Trilogy pulleys and ported/polished Eaton and lots of other intake flow mods.

Want/Need to find out if I just rebuild the 4R75w that's there, or do this swap!

Sister car? :)

I've been waiting on the shop that supplies the drive shaft spacers to get them back in stock. That and the driveshaft are my last two items to finish getting for the swap.

I have the engine/ trans mounted in the car just waiting on finishing my fuel system and some other little stuff. Once everything's together I'll post some pictures.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

I was looking into this swap in California, You can not use a F150 donor engine, But you can use a Mustang Engine.

Engine Classification - Vehicle and engine classifications of the donor and recipient vehicles must be the same based on Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). Classification examples include passenger car, light-duty truck (LDT1, LDT2), light-heavy-duty truck (LHD1, LHD2), medium-duty vehicle (MDV), etc. For example, a heavy-duty truck engine may not be installed in a light-duty truck even if they have the same displacement. Non-emissions controlled engines, such as industrial and off-road-use-only engines, and non-certified “crate engines”, MAY NOT be installed in any emission- controlled vehicle. It doesn't specify transmission.

[Joe Walsh]

I was looking into this swap in California, You can not use a F150 donor engine, But you can use a Mustang Engine.

Engine Classification - Vehicle and engine classifications of the donor and recipient vehicles must be the same based on Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR). Classification examples include passenger car, light-duty truck (LDT1, LDT2), light-heavy-duty truck (LHD1, LHD2), medium-duty vehicle (MDV), etc. For example, a heavy-duty truck engine may not be installed in a light-duty truck even if they have the same displacement. Non-emissions controlled engines, such as industrial and off-road-use-only engines, and non-certified “crate engines”, MAY NOT be installed in any emission- controlled vehicle. It doesn't specify transmission.

California just sucks SO Bad....
I can't imagine being a car enthusiast and living in 'La La' Land.

Plus Nancy, goofy 81 year old, Pelosi would be my Representative in DC.....yeeeesh!

BTW: I'm friggin' TIRED of EVERYTHING having a California Prop 65 Warning tag on it!
What an incredible waste of money!!

:mad2:

Sorry for the thread HiJack......carry on.

[justbob]

California just sucks SO Bad....
I can't imagine being a car enthusiast and living in 'La La' Land.

Plus Nancy, goofy 81 year old, Pelosi would be my Representative in DC.....yeeeesh!

BTW: I'm friggin' TIRED of EVERYTHING having a California Prop 65 Warning tag on it!
What an incredible waste of money!!

:mad2:

Sorry for the thread HiJack......carry on.

But Joe, just reading that could cause cancer!


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[Rafael]

Bringing this thread back alive. I took a long break from the car as I have some other things going on in life that take priority (aka a 4yr old) I'm 95% finished with the swap. Waiting on trans cooler line adapters so I can finish plumbing the trans cooler up. I have all the wiring done and reading correctly with the tach adapter.

I'm waiting on a few small parts but hopefully I can get this car moving under its own power again. Once I have it dialed in I'm more than likely going to build a plug and play harness for the whole setup to make it easier for anyone to do along with a printable handbook to speed up the process.

Might take some time however I'll probably make it happen quicker once I have some true road results documented on my end. I know for certain the 4.10 gears on my car will have to go back to 3.55s down the line. Cams +Whipple have to be fine tuned still after all said and done as I've added a ton of supporting mods to the car over the last year.

Really hoping to have it where I want by spring for a carshow or two!

[Rafael]

Update!

I’ve got the car running/ driving/ and somewhat tuned (have to install a meth kit to help with IAT temps)

few key notes:

4.10 gears really suck on these especially at highway speeds. Builds up a lot of heat with the cam/ 2.3 whipple combo I have going on.
wiring to make the tach work correctly was a bit tricky but finally found the correct way to make it read off the stock harness (you’ll get 1000 different answers to this question) I had to do a lot of trial and error to find it and make it work.

I’m currently reworking the shifter cable setup. I’ve got it working decent but the orientation is backwards. P= drive and D= Park hahaha

other than that around town it really likes to move around traffic easy. Hates long highway hauls that’s for sure (I’m gonna step it down to 3.55s)

all in all it’s been a very fun and challenging swap. I’ll post a few videos updating on YouTube one of these days after Marty and i finish up the tune, and link it.

[blazen71]

Great to hear! Keep the momentum going.

[justbob]

Awesome man!


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[Boatman01]

I've come here to say you've kinda inspired me, and without your steps and info wouldn't be doing this myself, a couple questions, was your explorer shaft aluminum? And what's your shift linkage situation? Thanks

[ledzilla]

I know this is an old thread, and that I'm going to necro it a bit, but...

I'm glad to see this thread. Since the 4R70W currently installed in my Marauder is toast, figure maybe I ought to just go this route instead of fixing the 4-speed.