Mustang S550 IRS

[boom boom]

I have been hesitant to start this thread because I know the implications of what I'm doing, but here it is. This is a ridden hard 300A that spent a bunch of time daily driven in Massachusetts and is on it's third engine. The rear has a nasty growl when you put a couple heavy dudes in the back, so it was time to make a change.

First I went to the local junkyard and grabbed a P71 rear frame section. IRS is a 2018 PP1 rear with 3.73 Torsen and the heavy sway bar. Goal is to maintain factory rear air ride but we'll get to that later.

(https://photos.app.goo.gl/9wFkR3d8tMbj9v3t5)https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Z_8UEBH0pJkdLIxf9mmgoR8jUcoXpK vrf_IAFiCFGvzTp6sGiFNHFR5Kft-5Kihr2GsLMFsk6rVha8iPUrhvsYFIc V44tbkYyOSlLIGfUH_ybBVcLRypF-KeGIowcVUdziskwUjZnUg=w2400

(https://photos.app.goo.gl/qbXTjWouCYgvVmn59)
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kom9G5u20eIx47be9R-HdlSuZopRuuQa6di5hiNonl2TQcVSV UYc-eLUD6lN8_htFmWF1lbFhaEG8l3CP47 UrX9whS0ePMaBuk84J-co1Dz0nfaPWRf5r9BM4dvtiKR7c1Rs ENfCZjs=w2400

Okay, so I can't delete old attached pictures, I'm out of space, and it wont let me embed google photos so lets start with links. ETA Okay, they're in but **** they're big. I'll keep working on it.

[boom boom]

Everyone knows Panthers are full frame cars on rubber body mounts so I'm not worried about NVH from the cradle but I still want it to be serviceable as an assembly. I ordered an ebay knockoff set of Ford racing solid cradle bushings- part number M-5872-M. The Ford parts are long discontinued and I didnt want to pay $300 for a BMR lockout set so $60 for the knockoff was the winner. A buddy sent me a youtube video of a trick way to remove the rubber cradle bushings: cut the rubber out with a hole saw, then cut the bushing with a sawzall, and knock the bushing out with apunch. Took only a few minutes for each one.








Rear of IRS
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/McvLtJxltZcvXXnBuzGDfvrkABttGP X8g5hZ5mPy8CTP0xW3EzFQsd0MyvP8 SCgRqDysEV8rQfr80dWm_FNI8JzhjO qDlVHXWKlccjxEzSRtljbmBH6BGEzw OZ_TCuoqkRJj4-8vVkA=w2400





Bushing removed

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/e6rVKWl2son65IfpVIA_F_aguSBB_D qKhMsUbXcmVN_e1DT7p7Lwy1ch8yBW Lv2h4VADge_9d6FuNHlB-FR142cdLrWt9iL7XEXnPE3cVZ-1SB4mK-cHhkO4rPaHHIc8Il3dZGWKhZQ=w240 0





Bushing Cut

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/PBDowztyCjSgeyw3xadhAdM6bEr37T kFu_XGkL2Iuh-1bczFt0XtDsEw2QQ_n_f0hNi6I7guN CmhYEhFmj0mzo3FPsXr6cnoJ1i3JAf 2ad9EpWzlsjfTo3UXMJ43YEvX0aT62 W0R0D0=w2400

[boom boom]

And here it is mocked up before I set all the ride heights. I spent a lot of time going through the dimensions before I undertook this project. The two big bonuses are the IRS fits inside the Marauder frame and at intersecting elevations. I have a crazy raggedy spreadsheet that includes all of my research. I'll clean it up at the end and post it when I have validated everything. Until then, here are some pertinent dimensions. The Mustang RWMSW is almost 2" more narrow than the Marauder. Much better than being wider... This crazy thing might actually work.





Curb weight
Dist F
Dist R
Wheelbase
Track F
Track R
W excl Mirror
RWMSW


2003
Marauder
4195
55
45
114.7
63.4
65.6

69.875


2008
GT500
3920
57
43
107.1
61.9
62.5




2013
Boss 302 LS
3650
55
45
107.1
61.9
62.5




2013
GT500
3845
57
43
107.1
61.9
62.5




2018
GTPP
3860
55
45
107.1
62.3
64.9
75.4
67.9375


2015
GT350
3798


107.1
61.8
64.4










Early Mockup Front

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Nm0lw3iHuqZ5KirXw_zp47HDKKoCbH bw1I_3hNzYw1lXJHL6q1NAe6vemC3l tYZHOG-2DqGBWBI8ejSNZojxOYj8jQ5L-Lc0OTI2ePXbsrhkOUKPhVI3sW_R4Pc KHQxJsmDFdh3jh0M=w2400





Early Mockup Rear

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mS3NZgqwR0USx8dfM99ljBbRRDX2Cy gc44YvAobsvkoMbH_Q4ySL8sQZNXYz LMRLsi-I_-2Yidj_KbDSW3ER_fcNBK7hv8mc03Ic Zdr1_vJen-vM_J-fLu6RaEbmQe7G7NgHBKHgKdc=w2400




Rear mount down

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/x-6Wtv2SyUHGiLHhYQk3lMj8mdp9AO_X kqyzKWyPc2zMm0Bhu_ikfhur_bfpFk wfRBrbGVxqHSMHdHzIP9qB-hvrbkgAwWDpdy2LRj1TMIE4HDgohIW _83ZLx_fiDjLEdDOzXkRzLF4=w2400

[boom boom]

And here it is jigged up. That's all for today, sure wish I had a frame table for all of this. I'll follow up with the elevations soon and see about getting the picture size reduced.






https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/JM39uNZxsIAHvLPcFjt1SrqvwM28UL FZKv6e3JxW_7bXU86sYJP_VXk8Thme 9JE0-9UsqfT0vvyP1UvLEKr2xojHBrRKWvC jU0atTfS-90XAUV8XgG6nbF9boZpPDOcrR_A__p l_lEg=w2400

[offroadkarter]

This'll be wild if you pull this off. As a 4 time panther owner and S550 owner I 100% support your science experiment

[justbob]

I like your motivation! From a quick look it appears four simple frame perches and she mounts up easily. Simple as welding in two crossbars nice and straight with gussets and then cutting out the unneeded center and capping off what remains. Done right and it would be stout and look factory.


I honestly think retaining the air ride and finding shocks that won’t interfere as well as figuring out the gas tank and tailpipe routing would take way more effort than mounting the cradle up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[boom boom]

Thanks for the encouragement. Four brackets, two spring mounts, some crossmembers, and new driveshaft. I too, at first, hoped it would be a slam dunk when I lined the IRS up under the frame but there are two big issues. One, the shocks are dead nuts under the panther frame rails. That's cool, but on closer inspection, they need to mount at close to the same height as the Marauder shocks so the frame rail has to go or have a 3-4" tube welded through it. The second issue is that the sway bar brackets and mounts are into the trunk pan. So the fuel tank has to go, the shocks/frame rails have to be dealt with, and the sway bar needs to be relocated. That put me on a new path....backhalf, but I really don't want to get at far into the weeds especially trying to do this outside of the car and without a table. So I wound up with the bracing setup that you see. I measured almost a dozen different S550 for ride height and also my 2003 vic (which has sagged to the perfect ride height) and my 300A. That gives me the dimensions I need to mock it up.


Should I backhalf?


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_CIcOUbj82-DcvTg5K6qjMmG65zozgX5j87Vmpgsq EEfm4lHGnndFOVZWlmOnpDAedqHlAG FDRpY9ikE3NZRghsmDJIm7VDQxNgs2 OOx9iRjF0JP4_3uZBfDTK_YqLedXJi ZHbr-yno=w2400



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_Az_MMgM8KTeslxwrhjLQb8n1izAws _aA3xYBQHxlM1WNgsUQJ9utcbCqWfE 85_twerqnGWUogjYc4G83iKnDXL-wIuGeUWpImu-ZnayR3DVcRDR561eGSVV40lS8GOjdq 6WeGn-trI=w2400

[boom boom]

Here is the mounting height for the IRS. It is based on a 27.5" tire and a level lower control arm. This is the same setup as the PP1 cars and a GT350 at the Autoshow.


Front Mount elevation

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6KSiFdLLKj1JT9Zpu7pYKXnsmbvX9B H0XwBKyFbLkXGUd0ei3yDkwIAWe_de 6SNSoIIOgaldP9vOQuchCvGuUqDbiv 1YYHjeI54VNKDytl45jQ1jjVQzhcev cgc2HuG1LWOHyZ-tge0=w2400




Rear Mount Elevation -- More on this later. The cradle hits the front watts link bracket and the locating tabs are interfering with the frame so it isn't in the front to back position yet.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ORCjr238y_1dF2wn4K5m7SoQvlp0jl xjhFokJaHoslH4P59EpE-9s7r_RPDV6k-2CsMF7f4C3oDXSmD99Bt2jns0C0OdI tBgYLeqWOFq4idXbq0PpO2GAGqfOsO 16GzdsH99KpZl9ZA=w2400

[justbob]

Personally I’m not scared off doing a full frame build, a kit or my own, Z cutting and shortening, doing geometry and altering front and rear everything, or notching for clearance or lowering.

But, when I hear back half or front for that matter I cringe unless it’s done by a very reputable shop. I’m a Plumber/welder/fabricator and an ex mechanic (until I needed to start making money LOL) and knowing the rigidity that is comprised when piecing halves together without the proper knowledge and tooling I would let guys smarter than me tackle it..

Something I don’t often say and that logic doesn’t always yield perfect results. I’ve seen two back halved cars at local car shows, both done by shops, and both looked like they would snap in half if they were ever fitted slicks!

Of course that’s two out of the hundreds I’ve checked out..

If your goal was tubbing I’d say proceed with caution and go for it. Just an IRS swap, not worth the work IMO.

Look up Toomanyfords and check out his stout back half! John’s car is beyond a crazy build! And I’m quite sure he’d agree on not slicing it up. But then again, I absolutely love being told I can’t do something. It gives me purpose to go on and prove wrong. [emoji1303][emoji16]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[musclemerc]

Just out of curiosity, how much is the weight diffrence between the IRS and a SRA?

These cars are heavy enough without adding extra weight. Especially in the rear of the car.

Are you using that back half for mock up only? Or do you plan on keeping it and stitching two frames together?

[boom boom]

This is my rough math for the swap



Stock Curb weight
4195


2018 GTPP Curb
3860


Weight Distribution F/R
55/45


Stock Rear Corner
944


2018 GTPP Rear Corner
868.5


Add for IRS
110


IRS Swppped Rear Corner
1019





Rear Unsprung per side
132


Rear Spring Motion Ratio
0.48


Rear Shock Motion Ratio
0.7


Shock Droop
1"


Shock Bump
2"


2018 GT PP Static Load
1534


Swap Static Load
1848


2018GTPP Wheel Rate
176


Swap Wheel Rate
213


2018 GTPP Spring Rate
728


2018 GTPP Calc Rate
767


2018 GT350 Spring Rate
900


Swap Calc Spring Rate
923


2018 GTPP Free Length
13.25"


Spring Length at Ride
10.25"

[boom boom]

A lingering question is the fuel sending unit. The tank needs to be moved to a horizontal position over the cradle. It will be somewhere around 34x22x6, which is a good size tank but can't accommodate anything stock. I haven't been able to find a reasonably priced 18-20 gallon fuel cell that would fit and I want to keep the stock EVAP and fill so I think it'll be a custom tank. In the boat world custom tanks are made everyday so I already have the tank estimates in and they are reasonable, but I need to settle on a fuel system.


Future plans are a mild M122 so I need something that has increased delivery or that I can upgrade later. I saw a recommendation that a single Coyote fuel pump is good for 600 rwhp but the hat is at a funky angle and they changed the level sender resistance so I will source that pump and use a different hat if I need to. First thought was an Aviator fuel pump. Its not terribly expensive, close to the right height and orientation, plus has the correct connectors and resistance. It would be "drop in". The problem is that the plastic body would limit me if I ever wanted to upgrade pumps.

https://www.rockauto.com/info/32/1010329__ra_p.jpg





Second Option is a Terminator fuel hat. This would give me many more options for upgrades and would also be "drop in". They are almost double the aviator price for a good used stock one. That, and I don't know the exact height. It would be really nice to get one in hand so that I could measure it but I can't justify $500 for a used part that might not even fit.

https://www.svtperformance.com/attachments/p2060009-jpg.1350131/




Yet another option is something like the Aeromotive Phantom 340 kit. It is universal, can be run return-less, and is in the same price range as the terminator aftermarket but it locks me in to a single manufacturer.


https://yyoocm3m3o-flywheel.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/17170-71-1024x680.jpg




The last option would be to chop up my stock Marauder hat and move it to a vertical configuration. It would certainly be the least expensive but may make things more difficult down the road for upgrades.


https://www.rockauto.com/info/23/67249front01__ra_p.jpg

[Mr. Man]

External fuel pump? Might give you the freedom to locate it where you want.

[boom boom]

Definitely open to suggestions. I don't have any experience with external fuel pumps other than being very noisy so I haven't spent much time on it. I'm pretty sure I can reuse the stock fuel line so putting a mustang or aviator hat in seems to make the most sense for plug and play. It's also pretty easy to connect an external pump to a sumped tank.

[boom boom]

While I let the fuel stuff percolate, here is some more shots of everything mocked up.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/EEqyLM8xy8pWbRzCIFTvuSmyBEpzuw 03eqd-d68v4fNA8a27YnfhG93QGL1rN_U11T zb3rLRmsI4nqtYdK4OW_wxMV61ca4Q Av9hYSpfgYbbYi9vVLDPaufk4RkmrS 6J0MaaltJ1C-k=w2400



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uf4K2OH2UxhLMYlgukFkiAnlq2UX7C mP9lVypRA1YfURNGgO9tR3GXEvZyIx veui1DdSDNeGhn7Xwk1M-lf97opsW_wEQDZKpgSxPAvbFQUWpm8 B83XxnNAt5PbB3Ak9aV17aEqDoM8=w 2400




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-PFBZYBHbDxomeR77wvkl8iQlyDFm78 mgP9Xs3wDoaHS-DP86SxVGIKSLD-d9myjZvu3rHZJe9ftDpdbDKy0s7kNL wRE3tUQbDSpy1Dwrhjb_N4tSYvpwZj l26fGVsrG-NhNMweKJMY=w2400




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/bsvOZsn3eKZkCyERvvZAR80znXM46C LZWx--yLQt4JJ1XhCLCqoIqMfkMsxoxd8kig Ce9jKMQpO_RSlupQxDBklnoqQgBSm8 uWHycEoNwtw5Cyz0f7waLvy59cWuyA X-eXAyckVPkQ4=w2400






https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/eYueLB4u7_HIgMz6ykUnwV1nYoGFYM f8asuwipKJKpq_9PEtsJMDm15KwYR0 lMuT9TCRSSvuIEGYk6UfdSMlB57kGk Ic_TziuqYFViIonIec54QnXaEXVREO VQQOynUY3bwfaS0GLXM=w2400

[Turbov6Bryan]

Can you show more of the sway bar and mounts where they would be hitting the trunk pan? Love the build man, dont forget to upgrade the axle shafts!

[boom boom]

Tell me more about the shafts? This is from a 2018 PP1 which has the upgraded pinion flange. I thought they also changed the axles but i haven't done much research on it. I do know the hubs fail if the axle nut is not properly torqued and the nuts have a tendency to either be loose or back off from the factory.




Talking more about the sway bar. You can see in the previous picture that the bar hits the Marauder frame rail. I had to disconnect the end links and lower the ends to get everything in position. Based on my rough measurements, the trunk pan is at an 85 deg angle forward relative to a level middle frame rail. The picture below shows that trunk pan is somewhere between 32-32.5 forward of the rear edge of the frame rail. Based on that, if you can visualize in the picture below it, The rear edge of the bar is right at 32.5 inches, so the rear 1" of the bar bracket is into the trunk pan. You also notice in the previous picture that the bar is right at the bottom edge of the frame rail. That means the entire bar bracket and the rear cradle mount is in the gas tank. Not a huge problem if you want to put a fuel cell in the trunk, but I don't like fuel in the car and want to keep the stock fuel fill.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tqnvrb3sWvRBLeF95Tka8MpgOL5A4E Rxy2Hy2lgz8dejqFJZN3HS-4k55rXYy00qLTUOHca2Hoek9s6Djhp El_YC2KUifVE9V5zP6LGobIfWdoFFL Lr9eI_o5sr9Dueg_sxUZDGCv-M=w2400




Down shot showing the location of the bar and cradle mount. 32.5 from the rear frame end is right at the rear edge of the bar.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tE9bF6L9V9cFIRZdEwPSkE7JoRfxs3 ysGTYSy3Hpi0R2LVWKze-8iU6GyabJZo3dqgt_sFYyiNtHJ8gIo 3c-fGrYh3sKJ5jdKG3VHhydrmJMj6IjCX VopSefsMXHOfD2bmVajW0b5Ik=w240 0





ETA- I just remembered that I chalked the frame for the trunk pan when I removed it. You can see the chalk line on the left side of the frame in this picture. That is the front edge of the trunk pan but unfortunately the cradle is not in position in that picture.






https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mS3NZgqwR0USx8dfM99ljBbRRDX2Cy gc44YvAobsvkoMbH_Q4ySL8sQZNXYz LMRLsi-I_-2Yidj_KbDSW3ER_fcNBK7hv8mc03Ic Zdr1_vJen-vM_J-fLu6RaEbmQe7G7NgHBKHgKdc=w2400

[boom boom]

On another note, does anyone have an S550 and can take a measurement for me? It would save me a trip to the dealer. When I measure the lower shock mount relative to the rear cradle mount it appears they are different from side to side. I am wondering if this is done intentionally by Ford or possibly misalignment from removal or transport.

I would like to verify the distance from rear cradle bolt to upper shock mount for each side of the car. That should eliminate any alignment concerns. Thanks in advance if someone can help!

[boom boom]

Final setup dimension. My factory shop manual shows the wheel center at 355mm/14.2" from the frame alignment hole between the upper and lower four link mounts. I think they used bad math because 355= 13.97". I used 14". That corresponds to somewhere around 46.5" from the rear edge of the frame.

Well, we've reached that time.....hold my beer.


Pay no attention to the kids' artwork all over everything. I was using a sharpie until they decided the frame needed to be "drawed" on. I want to be more accurate anyway so I'll switch to dykem and a scratch. The spring tower has to go. I left the body mounts in place on the hump so that they can be located later. It turns out that the front and rear cradle mounts are almost exactly 4" apart vertically. Looks like 2x4 .120 wall tube is going to fit the bill. Haven't decided if I am going to move the factory rail in or just build a new one. Probably 95% on new frame section but I don't want to replicate the rails and body mounts rear of the axle. Don't worry justbob, I'll try my hardest not be your third *****y backhalf.



https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/tS0PzC1fBh3nCscESGe2I1iOBqzwcD 6f7u7eEAmDTyQdLI1SQixSIN_gn2IP qmndPY6dOGRrvQzMDxVDx4593r8dFG PHijWICvQUlhx-fkrgwjgl0wUfJ3JIuZkF0RhiKeGRtM _sJLA=w2400





Here's the front crossmember location and the locating tab for the cradle. This also gives a good look at the solid aluminum cradle bushing. The bushing top is at exactly the same elevation as the shank of the pinion flange.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8n2AziboFIG6pe4evOmHqWcL82VNhw GSj0FU8kiTn-6M7yXAPpFpszXBubyAVKrJIixcblqb QtJf8V87iPO6-NNv_qPhx-uBfSvJ-4IKnPd6VVYo9TS_DLTozIi1BDR0Oqf uVpPlEMM=w2400

[boom boom]

The big cut- I took 6" out and left the #5 body mount in place for later.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/UgchAzy5waXegUT9XodgPBsZJ7VE1M XAcutq4Holw7XBtvtGa9Cch2QTE9DE kdMjMFzPm4bkQ6dKJi-DSmxOXzZfI-2Q-foDl97zxJfGzyESCJ99VKxdX2m2Sz3 41WOuU6W4t_5WUzA=w2400











And the new crossmember in place.





https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/8Lb7U-Cie9KB-UNYfp-43MA6TUgr-z8EvLcSF70j2DIWPCXENWFSni2X1lK LRHBJDT8WP-jBOqrnWBtENksbp2Lk8eqtttg97kNq 7SaXtq2LAiiV2Fzvr3p80Bif49-sa_ivRoNFOXY=w2400













https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0UX_oSbX_Y89wUV0jQ8r2IxncnMq8E qlmkp7amUQxXHLrV3jJ5w6OC3zxX4o J8Wrp2TGvfCNJkxWWjsnWnCW4h9iaa 6K5OnyO1fd-Kn5yVkVoxOB3SU9uscJ7ZqD2QhufFM h6F8arEg=w2400

[hotford]

Looks great

[a_d_a_m]

Simply awesome!

[boom boom]

Thanks guys. I have decided that this is going to get an intermediate frame because it doesn't seem worth it to fight the rails at axle hump. I mocked up a frame section to match the mustang and it just feels and looks right. Here's some progress on the new rails. I think the shock and the #5 body mount can share the same bracket.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/H6qjMaUUU7HES_VEehrrDcpbHIPp2-wwh-gCTla0mgjEL54_LHkU0ALSXzRZ_N6i SX1GbEF1NbD93tKt3wvSjsBYB4ttVK Szd-_N5huzuTwrEhuDz_3FHkiEjkUM9d-_CV_BscXKgSc=w2400







https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/J86W9NetmKZRIxnZpGaXvkP8duwMi4 hcQSNibO9RPO2gqFfUqBXET9XAXV30 UBrsOC3w0q56bK9dhaoaNr7y2OQL5C yEp39U8zku1oe-FMbHJtkWdNB_BcLBQLyTv587KK5qK1 4BA58=w2400







https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/uPt3jx-5vHhGHdnJOyGxuYM8F2wTyVpvy1Tq6 SSn0_5co_VvUkUrSPn4aRxsUBKGSSq luloEiFtOxQrxPRHInpnPWt1wVrT4N GFyxc9Dm9NMzAhh3o-Z81EFRB3icUB3VL9HEa0QCO0=w2400

[boom boom]

So I got into it and forgot to take a few pictures, but here is some progress. This thing might actually work. I'm sticking with the idea of the horizontal tank over top of the axle(still need to track down a fuel hat-termiantor or otherwise), so I had to figure out a rear crossmeber that gave me the most clearance and also could work as a mount for the sway bar. You'll notice that the sway bar brackets have been cut away, that was necessary for the rear crossmember which it tilted forward at somewhere around 85 degrees relative to the level frame. The rear crossember should be about 1/4-1/2" forward of the trunk pan. It is mocked up but not in final position and doesn't have bracing yet.





https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ko4TFSNRNm4wqFOWlYy8p8DdnyMZ2L 39pSeqooygwRoqvc8oaboHy7nCvSLV NBEyRU0Q3bGpkg0THwxVZIn4eUcgts aZgkU8zoKtLfNzSpdtGd5Wfs6KDt9B I6P99DJSKz8u1g3K8L8=w2400














https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/D-ngTPWb6B-lsyWgRwiMkmGaUX44w_WPQPld0KSnS bO6wpZcU42AQhqsiJAxjO_tvFDsPkU G7JCXRhz9rQIJd2CCMNb7k1HLESjDR HEFZemg2emz4dpFoE_eEOL89yvCMsk tPjZtyMU=w2400








The shock is mocked up in these pictures but it's over compressed. In this position it is about 3 inches droop and 1 inch bump. Actually, based on my observations, the rear shocks start to compress the bumpstops at 1" before final stop and the shock has around 4 inches of travel. 2 inches droop, 1 inch free bump and 1 inch compressing bump before stop. I plan to make adjuastable upper mounts but based on all of that, the shock mount will need to be slightly above #5 body mount shown in the pictures.







https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/G-x5jD3zUbxZ1g0OfulnA3Od6W3xDd6H vvOwsa_6D_EFYAhjnxu7_fsMFUpNLX ccyb6ccgAnGoUvs3eHQTQWMxN9OPaX AhtuuVBMKNXMRBeY0YS14QHosQU96d VJiKsi5nTY5KYPpj8=w2400









https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/aLkJB7OiXvF8i2a5J6FbAK6Cd9np30 E0jdZGWk6ow0M0jMbNdnw2jnJ-Sg5fKynPVRpW9gV-v81lkduZFtxwlLZsb4GRM5fCW_VVOX 7c3vdcov7AVH7GDQ6eDSDQFcaUoUxa wPPpEsM=w2400

[boom boom]

Building the shock towers. I matched the upper mount bolt pattern to the mustang. Built the tower, positioned it, and then marked it and drilled for the body mount. They will be the attached to the frame later. You can see the upper spring perch in the last picture. I snagged a pair out of the junkyard. I am still undecided on the air spring setup. I want to maintain he factory air ride so I am working on a couple ideas. I did make sure to build the spring perches strong enough for coilovers if I ever want to try something different.




https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/psJ_qw7yxuv7G4zfUxIjV6R4ZjAZjM 4R6k3GECgcUV8GxpT5Uj-tSD3fv1Gnvu_fMN9dA7yIf9-xbQirMxqZsZlvEhhxxYNHhRVjJktKG YoSG9b8AKGe29ZA98gA2NCvO8idPE-90-o=w2400









https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gMgp94W0wjmYZSjjR52jvlXPnL6C-faoKU2kpbdwrRCkBiSOqv-plQPjFJuNxP0M0_rrA25bevHBUkih_ b8G6l8MZv5is-TM8PHsTsBVegSOQqU8BAOn67iOvj8H 0obZBWX2ap87p40=w2400










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https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/K0U0oL-X0pua5XIrUlceWmrQac7RCKYKh6bi0 iAdT27cG4X5M94tKMhFxNZMdgWuH3x 1uzZDV4Hi4IpTxSq5mBPi2h9ZwjzSs BgFvYHkT03YlQV5xZkR3XMRR5J2wRT C6f2VSoCTzt8=w2400

[svtmerc]

Did this ever get finished?

[BAD MERC]

I was going to address the weight difference as well. I am curious about the difference in unsprung weight. This new heft is rearward and lower which should have handling benefits. Definitely cannot wait to see how this progresses. Hats off to you sir.

[burt ragio]

Your project is looking good. I too would like nothing more to have a independent rear suspension set up. Keep the build coming.