P2195 - O2 Sensor Signal Stuck Lean Bank 1 Sensor 1

[dmjarosz]

What the title says. The code just appeared this morning while warming the car up for my drive to work. The only work I did on the car was a LF sway bar link replacement the night before, completely unrelated but I've heard stranger stories.

I checked all wiring, connectors, etc and all seems fine. The only thing I havent looked into is the wiring from that sensor a part of the wire bundle that comes up behind the engine and has rubbing problems causing weird electrical issues sometimes?

I still have my old O2 sensors back when I did my Eaton swap so plan A is to just put one of those back in to see if the problem goes away. Eaton swapped folks, is this a common occurrence since EGT's are now higher? Keep in mind, I'm not exactly a baby with the throttle. What else should I be looking at?

[decipha]

9/10 times the code is thrown when you either have an air leak or the fuel pump is going bad.

In either case be sure you dont go past half throttle til you get it fixed. Thats the #1 cause of catastrophic engine failures.

[justbob]

Check the end of the PCV pipe where it connects to the intake. Seems hundreds have cracked out in the last couple of years.


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[dmjarosz]

Turned out to be a bad sensor. Excessive heat from a supercharged motor? Do these things just go bad from time to time? Whatever, its fixed haha.

Checked fuel pump duty cycle and that was fine.

Im Eaton swapped so most of my vaccum fittings are different but they all looked fine. Also, my vacuum gauge reads a steady 18-19 in-Hg, same as before.

Then it hit me... I only had P2195 code, indicating passenger side primary O2 being lean. Since its a V8, a vacuum leak or low fuel pressure would show up on both O2 sensors and a stuck closed fuel injector on cylinders 1-4 would throw a misfire code. I had none of those. I happened to have my old O2 sensors back from when I did the swap so I threw one in and monitored sensor voltage as I drove around and it looked identical to drivers side. After three drive cycles, the light is now off and the code is gone. Problem solved!

The only piece of info I dont have is a look at the voltage from the bad sensor before I swapped to verify for sure. Im too lazy to swap it back in just to see. Plus its like 90° here today.