SW headers - going in!

[azgolfrat]

Guys,
Does anyone have a tip or two for getting at the hard to access header to block bolts, bottom row - the two closest to the front of the car? (in order to tighten down...got the top row from above and the rear-ward bottom 2 from below relatively easily).
Thanks
-KK

[Cosgrandmarquis]

The passenger side?

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[azgolfrat]

yes, passenger side...I'm thinking driver side will be easy.

[MyBlackBeasts]

Use SS studs, not bolts.

[azgolfrat]

Yeah I know...some say studs, some say bolts. The bolts came with the kit. In either case, My question is the same.

[justbob]

Nobody says bolts. Anyways Lower the A/C compressor down and forward and have a good selection of bent wrenches. I have a few different sets of cheap harbor Freight pre bent wrenchs just for tight spots like this that I seldom have to do. They work great.


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[justbob]

Also you can get an easy 3 more inches simply by removing the two 18MM engine mount nuts, jacking it up and setting a heavy duty deep impact socket under the mounts for safety and set the engine down right on them. Certainly helps sliding the header into place as well..


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[blazen71]

Also use OEM manifold gaskets. They last forever and don't blow out. DO NOT use the supplied gaskets or any other fancy gasket with false claims of superior sealing. I've even reused the factory gaskets with no issue.

[azgolfrat]

Guys thanks. I'll consider switching to studs. I did get OEM gaskets :-)
I've not yet put the engine mount nuts back on since dropping in the block, so lifting it up will be easy...except I'll need to disconnect the Vortech at both ends of the intercooler which is mounted to the radiator support structure.

Thanks again

[Joe Walsh]

Also use OEM manifold gaskets. They last forever and don't blow out.
DO NOT use the supplied gaskets or any other fancy gasket with false claims of superior sealing.
I've even reused the factory gaskets with no issue.

+1!

Yep!
The OEM multi-layer stainless steel gaskets work great!

[a_d_a_m]

Also use OEM manifold gaskets. They last forever and don't blow out. Well, I mean...my 140k OEM gaskets were positively trashed and leaking when I took my manifolds off. But they're certainly a durable piece and I put new Ford pieces on when I did mine.

[azgolfrat]

OK, headers in. That was a bit of a tussle.
I started with the pass side header. The forward 2 bolts on the lower side were difficult to get to, however, when I removed the relocated coolant reservoir (no coolant in system yet) , the wheel well cowling, and a few hoses, access got a bit easier. Using a ratcheting closed box wrench I was able to tighten everything down (yes, I did use the bolts, not nuts/studs).
Over to the drivers side.. I replaced the motor mounts while I had the engine out...used non OEM parts purchased from Rock Auto. This was several months ago. Now, when trying to hang the drivers side header on the 4 lower 1/2 inserted bolts, the header would not hang on all 4 at once due to interference from the motor mount. Grrr. I determined to do some clearancing on the mount, shaving away a bit of the metal at the very top of the mount which was in the way. Working from below with an angle grinder and from above with a dremmel, I took off a bit, and thought it would be enough. It wasn't. I did a little more clearancing. While on my back under the car I noticed the motor mounts were not sitting flush on the cross member. They were sitting at a small angle with the center of the car portion of both mounts tilted up just a bit. I had not tightened down the 18mm motor mount nuts after putting the engine back in because I thought there was a 50/50 chance I'd be taking it back out again before system start up. Hmm. so I tightened them up to spec, and wala, clearance enough to hang the header. Again, just as on pass side, the two forward bottom bolts were the most difficult to tighten, but I got it done.

[azgolfrat]

Guys,
Now that the headers are in, I'm looking at all the stuff I need to get at least 1/2 inch away from the header heat...I've read about the starter cabling, so I'll be very careful with that. I am wonder about the tranny cable ..it comes down past the steering linkage and gets darn close to the header. There is a bracket down there ...about as long as your index finger ..is the tranny cable to be connected to that bracket?

Any other potential "melt events" I need to be careful with?

Thanks again for all the help.

[justbob]

I seem to remember the cable going to a bracket on the frame that needed to be bent slightly for clearance. Been a good while since I’ve done them and everything automatic is long gone to look back on.

Make sure the A/C harness and o2 wiring is all tucked away.


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[azgolfrat]

JB,
Yea - O2 sensor wiring and AC harness and starter wiring looks to be what needs to be protected one way or the other.
Any tips on how to insert and tighten that 3rd starter bolt with header in? Got the 1st two, but that highest one up is tough.
Thanks

[justbob]

JB,
Yea - O2 sensor wiring and AC harness and starter wiring looks to be what needs to be protected one way or the other.
Any tips on how to insert and tighten that 3rd starter bolt with header in? Got the 1st two, but that highest one up is tough.
Thanks

Easy peasy

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-9532/make/ford/model/mustang


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[blazen71]

Use a 6" extension on your ratchet and you should be able to get the top bolt in.

[MyBlackBeasts]

Use a 6" extension on your ratchet and you should be able to get the top bolt in.

^^^^^^^^^^^ This, it's not difficult at all ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^