OVERHEATING

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

On another thread, we talked about overheating. After replacing the Thermostat with a Motorcraft RT1110 (a Reich is to much $$ to me)
I was still overheating. Decided to replace drivers side Temperature Sendor / Sensor. I Looked up the item at Tasca and part was too expensive because it came with the pigtail. Went to Rockauto and the Standard Brand item said STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS TX6T. That was incorrect. The correct item is Standard Brand TS376. (Do not use TS376T)
See in picture1 the correct item on the left. The connectors are the same. In picture 2, you can see the used sensor has a different bottom (sensor). In picture 3 you can see how
the sensor is burn out. Since replacing this, my heater now works shortly after I start the car. Before, it took till the car's engine was fully heated. This costs $11.66 on Amazon, E-bay has a lot of five for under $26. and Rockauto is $10.38 + frt. This is an inexpensive item to replace to improve your heater's performance ( especially on higher mileage cars like both of mine.)
I will be doing this shortly on my Silver also.




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[fastblackmerc]

Replacing the temperature sender fixed your overheating problem? I highly doubt it.

IMHO..... Most likely the thermostat and a proper bled cooling system fixed the overheating / heat issue.

[Turbov6Bryan]

Improved heater performance? Just by replacing the temp sensor?

uhhhhhh. It doesn’t work that way.

[MyBlackBeasts]

Probably bled out an air pocket when removing old sensor. The fact that your HVAC heat improved tells me this is what happened.

The sensor itself (if the dash temp sensor) would not cure an overheating problem unless it wasn't over heating but gauge was incorrectly reading high.

The other sensor sending info to PCM could cause overheat if it was sending incorrect info that did not turn fan on - if your fan was working, it wasn't this.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

Apparently that was the case. The gauge was pegging hot even though it wasn’t steaming. Still couldn’t drive it in that condition. Replacing the sender fixed it. And yes, my heater comes on very quickly now.


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[BLACKMARAUDER04]

If the heating sensor is not working properly, and I replace it , why can’t my heater start working sooner (minute or 2) instead of car’s engine being fully warm (6-7 minutes especially in drive-thru line)?


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[fastblackmerc]

If the heating sensor is not working properly, and I replace it , why can’t my heater start working sooner (minute or 2) instead of car’s engine being fully warm (6-7 minutes especially in drive-thru line)?


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The "heating sensor" is just that, a sensor. It tells the gauge what temperature the coolant is at. It has nothing to do with how quickly the coolant heats up. Drive the car instead of sitting in the drive thru. At idle the coolant will take longer to heat up.

You install a block heater also.

[BLACKMARAUDER04]

I wasn’t talking how quickly it takes for the coolant to heat up, I was referring to the actual heater working in the car.
The heater is working now usually within a minute of starting the car, whether idling or not. The heater is blowing hot air before I get to the drive thru. Before, the heater would blow cold air until the engine is fully warmed up. This is the case with my silver.
I will replace the sensor/sender shortly on it.


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