threaded hole in block for header bolt misthreaded?

[azgolfrat]

hey guys,
I removed the driver side header from the block in order
to weld in a bung for the wideband air/fuel sensor.

When I began putting the header back in, everything was going
along well until I tried to thread in the top row, forward most
bolt. The bolt got unusually hard to turn about one or two turns in
so I stopped, backed it out, removed the header completely
and then tried to put the bolt back in...it wants to go in at
an angle, so Im thinking the 1st couple threads in the hole
are damaged. The bolt threads look fine.

I will inspect and clean, however, wondering if anyone has had
this problem before and figured a way around it?

Thanks
-KK

[blazen71]

I'd run a tap in it if you have the room.

[azgolfrat]

Blazen,
I i think there is room. its an akward angle, but I think its doable.

[blazen71]

Have you tried putting the bolt in a few times? If there is a little crossthreading just at the top you might still be able to get the bolt in as is. Just try your best to get the bolt squared up to the hole really good when you start.

[justbob]

Even an M8 body bolt works great for tapping. [emoji1303]

And there’s plenty on your car to borrow. [emoji6]

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[azgolfrat]

Guys, thanks. I like that M8 body bolt idea!
I did try coaxing that bolt in, but I was wary of forcing it to hard and making things worse..
After being out of town for a week +, I located my M8 1.25 starter tap (harbor freight), and went at it today.
I only had to go in a few turns with plenty of anti seize and some grease in the flutes...picked up some shards so I know I was cutting...
All good now; bolt goes in straight and with normal ratchet pressure...
51646

So...is there a recommended tighten sequence one I get this thing back up and "finger tight"?

[justbob]

German torque.


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