Engine refresh - the thread

[daniel.drives]

Alrighty, since my motor has 210k miles on it, and since I enjoy road course racing in the car, and since the last oil filter change produced what looked like a beautiful metallic paint job -

It's time for a refresh.

After doing some reading and some thinking and a bunch more reading, here's where I'm at: I don't want to do boost. I know the small motors that breathe well respond well to boost, but for the $5-6k to do it reliably, plus the increased abuse on everything else, plus the extra cooling demands (I'm in Phoenix), I don't think it's the right route for me for this car. What I would like is a return to stock reliability, replacing all the parts that have worn over the miles. I'd like more RPMs up top, if I can spin it to 7000 that would be awesome, but 6500 would be fine (only having 2000rpm in the powerband kinda sucks). I'd really only expect like a 10% bump in power, with cams 330 shouldn't be unobtainable.

Some things are pretty simple, new bearings everywhere, replace the rods and pistons with some less brittle parts, finding new TTY bolts for everything. Other things are more complex: it currently leaks oil around the valve guides, are those something that I can buy? Is that something a machine shop will have? I should probably replace the valve springs, should I also replace the valves? Since a rear head cooling mod was never installed (yeah my bad) what should I tell a machine shop about the #7 and 8 valve seats?

I have experience building small block chevys with my dad, and I'm planning on doing the assembly work myself, but the specific parts and machining needs of this engine are new to me. Any input from people who have built these in the past would be welcome. I'll update this thread as I make decisions and progress

[musclemerc]

It's going to be impossible to obtain 330HP with cams and bolt-ons and will cost you more to get there than the $5-6K for a SC

7000rpm rev limit?

[blazen71]

Valve guides are common to wear out. You can buy new ones and a machine shop can install. Also, have them check for loose valve seats. You can also buy those. Since you'll have the motor apart get the cylinders bored and honed.

[Mr. Man]

With your mileage and what you plan to do with the car, as long as the motor is out, I'd closely inspect/replace anything that moves. Consider steam cleaning the block as you indicated a lot of metal in the oil. Might want to refresh the trans and the rest of the drivetrain while you're at it. :twocents:

[Joe Walsh]

If you have experience with Chevy small blocks....then LS swap it.
you can't beat 5.3 Liters (or even 6.0 Liters) of plain, simple, cheap pushrod power and TORQUE.
Modding 4.6L Modular motors is a waste of money.....unless you put a blower on them.....but then you have to get good rods and crank....and maybe 4 cams.....and on and on.

Personally, I'd swap a Coyote 5.0 from a salvage yard along with the 10 speed transmission and computer.....
but long ago I wasted wayyyyy too much money on a built N/A Modular engine for my Marauder....:(

[Shinker]

I know nothing compared to most members on here but there are a few things I can think of concerning the transmission that should be considered if increasing rpm limit. According to the former ford engineer Jerry Wrobleski the stock 11” converter starts to balloon at 6500 rpm. There have also been numerous instances of the snap ring that holds the intermediate one-way clutch on to the reverse drum flying off at high rpm as well. Easy fixes but something to keep in mind.

[azgolfrat]

Daniel, the guy who rebuilt my motor, Mike Zimmerman, up in Glendale, near Greenway and I-17, seemed to be able to get all the parts you are mentioning above. You could ask him where. He isnt the most talkative guy, but he might help. I looked at the details of my bill from him and lots of the stuff was from Summit Racing. You can find Mike by looking for "Zimmermans Racing" on the internet.