Dragcity Marauder - Build it plan

[Dragcity]

In April 2021 the Trilogy boosted engine failed. I was hoping to have that not happen, but I pushed a little too hard. At least two connecting rods gave out and poked air holes in the side and top of the block. I have not yet removed the engine and torn it down. I'll wait until I have the new one ready to go in. I will use it a reference point for re-assembly. There is too much to keep track of on these things.

I have a good TEKSID engine for the rebuild. I pulled the heads and the bores look great. No scoring and no top ridge. I will send it out to have it cleaned up and checked out. One motor mount stud broke off and is in the block, that will need to be professionally removed.

The questions I have are:
1) What is the most HP I can get out of this thing while utilizing the Trilogy Supercharger I have? ( I have Standard, small and smaller upper pullies for the supercharger) [I was at 440 RWHP]
2) Should I stroke it? I have 4.10 gears and always have a traction issue. (Stroking takes a little off the low end but adds it to the top end)
3) How much can I get away with on the stock fuel supply lines? I have upgraded the fuel pump and have 39# injectors, and can move up on those.
4) What do I need to do to make it all run on alcohol? (If I ever want to go that route) [I am a LICENSED Distiller and can readily make 190 proof alcohol]

I will be rebuilding with forged internals, new pistons, so I can do whatever. If anyone has extra forged parts on their shelves they want to put to good use. let me know.

I am looking forward to help from this community. I know it's all been done before. The end result for this engine is to get to a bit more HP, strength, durability and fun, fun, fun. I originally wanted to get after those pesky Hellcats and Demons, but that's more than I can afford.

[justbob]

I don’t have first hand knowledge on most of that so I will refrain from commenting on that. I know it drives me nuts reading peoples opinions that have no real experience..

I highly doubt that lil Trilogy even if ported would require much more fueling than what you currently have besides possibly 60# injectors and a larger MAF than stock and/or a MAF extender like a MAFia.

Have you eliminated the sharp tiny 90* bend in the fuel line pre filter yet?

Do you have a decent blower tensioner like a Thump Racing to actually hold the boost?

If you are only planning to run the Trilogy then the internals only really need a minimum of beefing up so take your pick as long as they’re forged. The Trilogy will never out power the block and internals.

I had my old Trilogy dialed up to 20.5 #’s and I believe it made a whopping 6 RWHP more over my 13.5# pulleys and tune. I believe it was a +4 lower and a 2.8 upper. It created nothing but insane heat soak and wore itself out in no time.

You might want to look into an upgraded heat exchanger as well, even better is the Killer Chiller.


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[Dragcity]

I do have the Lightening MAF. I did remove the 90 degree bend and upgraded to a larger fuel filter. Belt tensioner is a weak point. I could feel it slip even with my modest 9.7# of boost.

Killer Chiller - Good idea. Thanks

[justbob]

Besides the engine and the OEM cobra heat exchanger I had pretty much every other supporting item I mentioned plus an upgraded fuel feed line. Heat extraction even with the cowl hood was my main issue between the overspun Trilogy (also almost 100,000 miles on the blower) and not upgrading the heat exchanger. Lowering the boost and upgrading the exchanger would’ve yielded much more power. I even had cams and headers on that high boosted tune and the heat couldn’t leave fast enough.

I was literally melting some plastic items under the hood and cooking the fuel at its worst point. Heat is your enemy!


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[Dragcity]

Ethanol/Methanol may be my friend in that regard.

[musclemerc]

Your limit will be the Trilogy SC. After 13.5psi you lose all efficiency. I had a boost map back in the day when I ran one, I will look to see if I can find it.

UPR and Roush use to make nice tensioners. I cannot say what the quality is now. I had -0- belt slip with my Trilogy @13.5psi stock lower/3.0 upper/Roush tensioner/ non HD tensioner stand from Gorsuch

I'd say upper 400HP is about all your going to get with a roots SC

[justbob]

Ethanol/Methanol may be my friend in that regard.

I have a used meth kit and 4 gals of boost juice left over I never ended up using on my last build I’d sell on the cheap. The pump should be sent in for a refresh as I hear that’s apparently recommended every year.


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[RubberCtyRauder]

I have a ported trilogy, LFP intercooler, Killer Chiller, 2.8 Upper, 4lb lower, UPR tensioner, Run 15+ lbs boost, 495 rwhp on 93 octane.Diamond pistons, Eagle rods, Nitrided stock crank

[Dragcity]

Great information right there. Thanks! Meth kit. That might be a great addition.

495 rwhp is a great number.

[justbob]

Alki Control with 3 bar map dual nozzle set up for I believe 99-04 Mustang. I literally know nothing about these but as far as I can tell everything is there. (I purchased from RacerX on here a few years ago) Approximately $793 new with the extras, I’ll take $350 plus shipping. Let me know as I’m starting to gather up left over parts to sell of and gain some room again…


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[musclemerc]

Meth will strip the teflon coating off the rotor pack per Manguson and previous experience.

I think Blown 3.8 pulled off a meth injection drilling the lower intake and install nozzles post boost

[musclemerc]

I have a ported trilogy, LFP intercooler, Killer Chiller, 2.8 Upper, 4lb lower, UPR tensioner, Run 15+ lbs boost, 495 rwhp on 93 octane.Diamond pistons, Eagle rods, Nitrided stock crank

I would think you have the highest output Trilogy past or present. There is one other that had the rotor pack swapped out to a M122 setup.
Mailman, I think.

[Dragcity]

Teflon in the combustion chamber is bad juju.

[Spectragod]

If I had to build another dohc, I would bore the next one as well as stroke it.

Mine had....

Trilogy twin screw
60lb injectors
Svt focus pump
BAP
Polished/ported heads
Crower blower cams
Diamond pistons
Eagle rods, crank
Melling oil pump

Made over 600 at the wheels but IMO was not street able, kept the tune, but had another with the power turned down so I felt safe on 93 and didn’t blow the tires off on the street, even though I was on DR’s at 18-20lbs in them, car was as bad as a mustang


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[RubberCtyRauder]

I would think you have the highest output Trilogy past or present. There is one other that had the rotor pack swapped out to a M122 setup.
Mailman, I think.

I think DOOM had over 500, but , Cobra block etc. Buckwheat has the it M122 stuff on his Trilogy.

[Spectragod]

I think DOOM had over 500, but , Cobra block etc. Buckwheat has the it M122 stuff on his Trilogy.

Doom was 512 iirc, and had tons of appealing mods


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[justbob]

Doom was 512 iirc, and had tons of appealing mods


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I miss Jake’s bone breaking hugs every year. [emoji17] Like seriously, it honestly hurt, but I looked forward to the pain.


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[Dragcity]

If I can get real close to 500 RWHP I will be happy.

I'll build the rotating assembly to handle way more than that, but I really like the Trilogy setup. It's so clean and compact. If 500 is its limit, so be it.

[Spectragod]

I was happier when my car had 440ish at the wheels, overall drive ability was better, 500+, plan on, bigger brakes, built trans, Dyno tech driveshaft, new rear control arms, adjustable rear shocks, widened wheels, race fuel, then wait for the next weak point. I’ve lived the dream, wish I wouldn’t had modded the car to the point of being un-drive able , the wins were epic, but the cost to get there was phenomenal.


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[justbob]

I was happier when my car had 440ish at the wheels, overall drive ability was better, 500+, plan on, bigger brakes, built trans, Dyno tech driveshaft, new rear control arms, adjustable rear shocks, widened wheels, race fuel, then wait for the next weak point. I’ve lived the dream, wish I wouldn’t had modded the car to the point of being un-drive able , the wins were epic, but the cost to get there was phenomenal.


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The next week point - rear end.. Been there a few times.


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[Spectragod]

The next week point - rear end.. Been there a few times.


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I took heed of some of the issues you had and built the rear end prior to blowing it to pieces, I was on borrowed time


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[Dragcity]

I have the Detroit Trutrac with 31 spline axles and solid control arms. Transmission is going out for a rebuild as it has over 100,000 miles on it and lots of Trliogy miles. I will take note of that comment that 440 was more fun than 500. I really do enjoy driving the car. 8 already have the widened wheels. Nitto Drag radials installed. Upgraded rear shocks. Drive shaft is the only thing in that mix that is stock. I did replace u joints.

What do you think about me re-using the Teksid Mark viii stock crank? It's nodular. Although, if I stroke it, I'll need a new crank anyway. I'll just go forged then...

[Dragcity]

I was able to get the Teksid block all torn down. The rod and main bearings barely have a polish on most spots. Crank is perfect. Bores are perfect.

I need to do some careful grinding work on the Knock sensor bosses and six tabs up high on the sides of the valley so the intercooler clears.

I am still not sure if I want to stroke this engine or not. The bores could probably stay standard bore at 3.552. The stock crank is Nodular from my research. Could be re-used ??

What I have been reading about stroking is, I'll need to increase boost to realize any notable gains from stroking. I was only at 9.7# so I have a little to gain in that area.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Stock crank good for 600+ hp. Mine is stock, nitride coated. I don't feel stroking with a Trilogy is worth it. It's a 1.9 blower. It has its limits, I'm pushing mine over too far. It's a street car to me

[Dragcity]

Good advice right there. I don't want to push anything over 75% of its capabilities. I love driving this car and like to beat on it once in a while. Never going to be a track car. Once in a while to the strip for some fun runs with the local folks, but my racing days are over.

Thanks a lot everyone.

[Themarauderguy]

I have a ported trilogy, LFP intercooler, Killer Chiller, 2.8 Upper, 4lb lower, UPR tensioner, Run 15+ lbs boost, 495 rwhp on 93 octane.Diamond pistons, Eagle rods, Nitrided stock crank

Those are good numbers. What compression ratio is your engine?

[RubberCtyRauder]

I don't know as the pistons and rods replaced before I got car.

[Dragcity]

ON that note about compression ratio... How high can I go? I think I saw some 11.0:1 pistons out there. If I am not going over 10 lb of boost from the standard Trilogy Supercharger, the compression ratio can go up, as long as all those whacky valves clear.

[Dragcity]

Well, time to revive this thread.

I finally have my Teksid block in at a local machine shop. Next week it gets the hot tank, torque plated and clean-up. We may be able to keep the 3.552 bore, just a quick square up and polish. 0.010 over are expensive pistons. I will be keeping with the stock stroke. There are lots of rotating assemblies put there, but I can see I will not be doing this on any sort of reasonable budget.

After tearing down the blown up engine, I have realized there is absolutely nothing I can re-use. The failure has put too much stress on every single component of the short block. I am not even confident in the heads at this point. Combustion chamber #1 is banged up pretty good. All the valves look good, but my confidence in their ability to go on is not there.

#1 connecting rod broke. #1 piston was broken into two major pieces and a thousand smaller pieces. The wrist pin shattered and wound up in the mix. All the rings were twisted and wound up everywhere in the engine.. #2 connecting rod broke. the piston stayed in one piece and in it's bore. #'s 3, 5, 6 and 7 had bent rods. Only rods that were looking straight were 4 and 8. The bloc has several ventilation holes in it. three on the sides from rods, two in the valley from the meat grinder of a crankshaft. Needless to say, it is n absolute mess.

Really not looking forward to spending $10,000 on a rebuild here. Heads are an unwanted surprise. I have no ide if anyone can repair a banged up casting at position #1. I will try to post up pictures of this mess. It's a lot worse than I thought.

I am now into Oil pump, pickup, windage tray, and pan, all are bent and damaged. The entire timing system has experienced too much stress.

**** !

[mustangeddie]

Good to see you getting back on this Joe. Sorry about all the damage but you know the saying if you're going to play you're going to pay. I do have quite a collection of engine parts here so if I can help you with anything lmk. Also have a friend with a machine shop down here on the Island that can weld up just about any damage to aluminum if that is a viable option for you. I'm sure there has to be someone in your area that can probably handle that, Oddy's Automotive in Elma comes to mind if he hasn't retired. Only met the man once but Jim is very knowledgeable, an extremely successful racer & real easy to deal with a good guy for sure.

[RubberCtyRauder]

You'll need more than 10psi to get north of 450rwhp. Trilogy pullies are hard to come buy, they are keyed and not same as Eaton swap ones. Gerald may be able to make a 3.0 upper

[lji372]

I believe I do have one.
Now to remember where is the problem.

[Dragcity]

I call this one "The De-evolution of the Piston and Connecting Rod"
52477
And.... "Where did Number One Go?"
52478
Banged up combustion chamber.....
52479
Oh, and this one... "Who Needs a Bore Around"
52480

[Dragcity]

I believe I have all three of the upper pullies for the Trilogy. Other choice is a larger crank pulley, right? But then consider heat soak... If I get the heads done right, I can pick up some HP there.

[Dragcity]

The trick with that #1 combustion chamber in the head is to machine it properly to match CC's and proper mixture movement. I have no idea if that is possible. At least it is only one chamber.

[mustangeddie]

The trick with that #1 combustion chamber in the head is to machine it properly to match CC's and proper mixture movement. I have no idea if that is possible. At least it is only one chamber.You'd have to talk to a machinist to get the answer to that but it's probably possible. I've seen my friend weld up & machine heads that looked way worse than yours & when he was finished you could hardly tell it was damaged. I assume those are 9 thread heads I do have a set here if needed.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Killer Chiller for heat..my iat is around 100

[Dragcity]

Edie, I may need a passenger side head. Yes, mine are 9 thread. I'll look around town. Yes, Jim Oddy has one heck of a good reputation around hear. Ill see if he is still about. I will ask my block machinist about it.

Killer Chiller is an option. Tell me, does that have any negative effect on cabin A/C performance?

You guys are the best !

[RubberCtyRauder]

I haven't checked actual vent temp inside when AC on, but IIRC temp coming out vent is like 5-7 degrees warmer than if no killer Chiller. Should have your blower ported while out of car.. rebuilt too. Just don't recommend Jon Bond performance in Iowa..Use Steigemeier in Missouri.

[Dragcity]

I'll .look up the blower porting and freshen up. I thought these things were good for 100,000 miles. I put about 25,000 miles on Supercharged. Might as well make it all brand new like.

I'm thinking I might as well install a new power steering pump and A/C compressor while everything is apart. 120,000 miles and 18 years later, might as well.

And..... There goes and sort of budget, right?

[blazen71]

Personally I would leave the P/S and A/C if they're both working. You can't get new OEM P/S pumps and will be hard pressed to even find a Motorcraft rebuilt unit.

As far as the carnage, you definitely stayed til the job was done :P

[justbob]

I believe I have all three of the upper pullies for the Trilogy. Other choice is a larger crank pulley, right? But then consider heat soak... If I get the heads done right, I can pick up some HP there.

Truth. When mine was a Trilogy I ran oversized valves, Crower stage 2 blower cams, and full Stainless Works system.

3.2 pulley and stock lower - 13.5#s 445/431

2.8 with a +4 lower pulley - 20.5#s 453/Can’t remember the torque off hand, later date and cooler temps turned a 461 but still..

Total heat pump. As far as melting and warping some under hood plastic items and cracking the paint on the blower!

Also make sure you have a really good tensioner if adding boost along with the obvious Maf, injectors, ETC. I loved my ThumpRRR tensioner, never ever belt slip.

The Trilogy was no doubt an awesome unit, it just had limitations. The best thing I ever did to the Marauder was adding the Trilogy, the funnest thing I ever did was swapping it for a Centri! [emoji16]


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[RubberCtyRauder]

They are good for alot of miles..porting helps it run more efficient with less air friction (heat) it has to come apart to port so no sense in reusing bearings..Mine was ported with like 35k miles on it, rebuilt and powder coated. I have 2.8 upper and 4lb lower..killer Chiller, 17-19 lbs at wot.. 495/468...I don't race it

[Dragcity]

Well, I will build it to the best of my ability and budget (budget, ha) and what I get, I get. I had a hell of a lot of fun where it was. Now to make it run and reliable again. I'm too old and broken to race anyway.

Good points about the PS Pump and Compressor. I guess I will clean them up nice and check for any issues.

Funny, it is way easier to get parts for my 1958 Corvette than it is for this Merc'

[Dragcity]

Personally I would leave the P/S and A/C if they're both working. You can't get new OEM P/S pumps and will be hard pressed to even find a Motorcraft rebuilt unit.

As far as the carnage, you definitely stayed til the job was done :P


Ha, "stayed til the job was done..." I guess so. It happened in an instant. Just a big plume of white smoke behind me. Lots of coolant poured out of the headers at teardown.

[burt ragio]

I'll .look up the blower porting and freshen up. I thought these things were good for 100,000 miles. I put about 25,000 miles on Supercharged. Might as well make it all brand new like.

I'm thinking I might as well install a new power steering pump and A/C compressor while everything is apart. 120,000 miles and 18 years later, might as well.

And..... There goes and sort of budget, right?


I just had Stiegemeier Port & polish my Eaton. I can’t say enough about Stiegemeier knowledge professionalism & punctuality & price. Stay clear of the Jokers !
Pump Gas. Stage 7: 475-500 RWHP 12-14# BoostPump Gas


Supercharger, Plenum, OEM Throttle Body
Original 500 RWHP design
Requirements:

91-93 octane; 18-21° spark advance (http://stiegemeier.com/octanetable/)
octane boost recommended for racing; 23° advance
Low-temperature thermostat
TR8 Spark Plugs – 032 gap

[Dragcity]

Good news on the Teksid block, only needs 0.010 over.

Bad news is, 0.010 pistons are not readily available and more clams.

I am looking for I Beam connecting rods, once again, more clams. Oliver has some nice ones at $1,400 WOW !

Anyone have a nice Kellogg crank they want to part with?

How about a set of used Stainless Work headers? My Kooks want to be replaced.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Diamond pistons and Eagle Rods are good..stock crank is fine for 600+ hp

[RacerX]

For .010 over: Domestic - Pistons - Automotive (jepistons.com) (https://auto.jepistons.com/pistons/domestic?engine=8871&make=14&rwb_bore_diameter=7940&rwb_cylinder_head=9061)
52518

For .020/.030 over:CP-CARRILLO Product Catalog (cld.bz) (https://cp-carrillo-catalog.cld.bz/CP-Carrillo-Catalog-Collection/CP-CARRILLO-Product-Catalog/30/)

52517

Go with a gas nitride top ring pack. The chrome moly top rings suck over time...

[Dragcity]

I'm going to do everything forged in there. The Teksid crank is perfect, but who knows. When I croak, my kid might want to put a Whipple and N2O on it and shoot for 1,000 hp.

[Spectragod]

Diamond pistons and Eagle Rods are good..stock crank is fine for 600+ hp

Weak goals........ lolz


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[mustangeddie]

Paid about $700 for the Manley I beams in my stroker engine.

[RubberCtyRauder]

Weak goals........ lolz


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It's a Trilogy so not going to go far with it anyway

[Dragcity]

If it's worth building, it's worth over-building????

[RubberCtyRauder]

Nothing wrong with building every aspect with quality parts...or so it's ready for more boost. Just have seen countless posts of budgets of $X dollars, you even mentioned $. You can build it for where you're going towards or build it based on a dollar figure. They both have their merits.

[Dragcity]

Yes, I keep going back and forth on budget vs. best build practice. This is the best sounding board I know, and always has he best advice. I have had this car for 18 years now, I would hate to cheap out on a component, and then worry about or question it later. I do not want to do this a second time.

[justbob]

No matter how strong you build it there is ALWAYS going to be a weak link. It could be a bad part, bad machining, human error, or simply the next weakest puzzle piece.

All you can do is try and have fun doing so.

I have learned it’s always best to either go cheap or go the best possible route. Every time I’ve ever choose middle ground I’ve been burned. Not just on car items but life..

Just be honest with your goals. No need to build something that will (should) hold up to 1,500 HP, but don’t settle for parts only rated 100 past your goal.


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[Dragcity]

Do those Whipples just take the place of the Trilogy blower unit? Or is there much more to it, aside tuning??

[musclemerc]

^^^Yes, there's more to it. You'd have to relocate the MAF wiring, battery swap to DS, move the CAI to the PS, etc.

[Dragcity]

oh, eff that

[musclemerc]

I agree! DS inlet FTW

[RacerX]

I completely agree!
52519

[Dragcity]

Hey, what's that extra belt tensioner at the alternator? I want one! I NEED one !!!

Nice pinch !

[RacerX]

Lol, I believe Jerry (lji372) still makes the extended brackets.

[musclemerc]

Hey Bill, that black snout looks familiar.

[Dragcity]

Diamond Pistons - (Top ring is set 0.325" down) - 0.010 over - Comes with Rings and pins - What compression ratio to choose?
Oliver I Beam Rods
Manley Forged Crank

If I go higher than the OEM 10.1:1, I will be able to increase HP. Stay at 10 lb of Trilogy boost. The block is getting minimally decked. Shoot for 10.5:1 Compression??????

[musclemerc]

^^^ In my experience, your going the wrong way if your plan is to go higher than the stock NA compression ratio on a supercharged engine.

You should be going the opposite way with the compression ratio with plans to make more boost.

(Pretty sure others on this site are not gonna like this comment): I think you should sell the Trilogy SC, intercooler, SC tensioner bracket, COT, and heat exchanger for a ridiculous amount of cash, then place that money back into your build and end up with a better setup. Replace the parts I listed above with (Jerrys HD/SC brackets, SS COT), Froozenboost type 100 heat exchanger, LFP Performance TIG welded intercooler, and a kit from James Hell to move you over to a GT500 supercharger (TVS, Whipple, Eaton)

I took this route and never looked back as my current TVS is far superior to my old Trilogy. If you wanted to you could sell it as a complete kit. Ditch the Trilogy lower pulley for an Innovators West with the SC pulley hub built in for whatever lower ring you wish.

I built a full Trilogy kit, all I had to start with was just a SC. My kit lives on under the hood of Mebot's MM

[justbob]

Agree on ditching the old. It’s great for what it was intended to be but a complete bottle neck to take it any farther.

I haven’t met one person who regretted upgrading.


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[burt ragio]

Bill Is the extra belt tensioner at the alternator really needed or is it extreme ?

[musclemerc]

Bill Is the extra belt tensioner at the alternator really needed or is it extreme ?

It's not an extra tensioner its an extra pulley.

We both have Jerrys HD swap brackets, they add an additional pulley that's mounted on a bridge much like the factory did with the Terminators.

It is necessary if you plan on making high boost with no belt slip.

I currently make 20psi and I have -0- belt slip @ WOT

https://i.imgur.com/PSn6VTAl.jpg

[burt ragio]

At what point with a good after market tensioner would that extra pulley be needed ?

[musclemerc]

All depends. What's a "good aftermarket tensioner"?

What kind of upper? Grooved or not?

What SC? An Eaton? Definitely not needed! Whipple? After you cross 14psi TVS? Same as a Whipple, after you cross 14psi

Pretty sure someone will chime in and say "I make 17psi on an Eaton with no belt slip and no extra pulleys". My answer is your Eaton won't build boost as fast as a TVS or Whipple so I'm not surprised you didn't need the extra pulley.

[Dragcity]

Well, I know I had belt slip at 10 lb of boost, replaced the tensioner and still slipped. I would like to add that hardware to 'Dragcity Marauder'.

[blazen71]

I also agree with replacing the Trilogy with a GT500 supercharger. Drivers side inlet and a far superior blower.

[Dragcity]

Just when I think I have a plan. You guys are KILLING me.......

That's it, I'm just putting a 1976 Mustang 4 cylinder in it. Easy swap

[mustangeddie]

Joe sent you a pm

[Spectragod]

Diamond Pistons - (Top ring is set 0.325" down) - 0.010 over - Comes with Rings and pins - What compression ratio to choose?
Oliver I Beam Rods
Manley Forged Crank

If I go higher than the OEM 10.1:1, I will be able to increase HP. Stay at 10 lb of Trilogy boost. The block is getting minimally decked. Shoot for 10.5:1 Compression??????

My TS was a 12.5:1, I had 13.5 lb of boost, I ditched most of the stock trilogy parts, added a killer chiller blah blah blah, and it didn’t run on pump gas, but that was never the plan. I did have a pump gas tune that throttled it to 526, Jerry will tell you how it ran, it may have seen a “little” street action at Woodward a time or two, Woodward Mexico btw.

The weakest link in my case was the circle D triple disc converter and built transmission, but that happened in another town in Mexico, but I still smoked the Z0something Camaro


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[Dragcity]

Well, I have most of my parts. Manley forged crank. Oliver rods. Diamond pistons. Clevite bearings. New pickup tube, Hurricane oil pump, Composite windage tray, rear head cooling in the back of the heads. MMR rear main seal and plate. ARP 2000 Main studs, ARP side bolts for the Teksid block. MLS head gaskets. Heads are in the shop getting a work over and chamber #1 getting repaired. Depending on the estimate, I may just order built heads form Modular Head Shop. ????? MLS head gaskets.

Looking for oil pan options. Is just a stocker the best way to go? Everything got damaged, dented, torn apart.

Transmission still needs to get done, probably a 3,200 stall converter. Best bet on that?

Next up, deciding on the best timing chains getup.

Thinking of trying to port and polish the intake system and supercharger myself. I am not comfortable sending everything out to MO. If anyone has pictures of the finished porting, that would be great.

Internals go to the machine shop/builder next week.

I am hoping to be on the road by Summer 2023. Life is busy, time and space are limited.

Oh, I removed the Bypass valve from the supercharger for shipping. What do I have to do to get that reset to the proper position? It has a sticker that says factory setting........

[justbob]

I’d get a deep Moroso pan or equivalent. High volume oil pumps need the extra capacity.

Most all of us just order the Ford Racing timing chain kit.

You might want to upgrade to head studs for future goals of a larger blower.

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[Dragcity]

Yes, I have the ARP 2000 Head studs.

Does Moroso Make a Marauder specific pan? Are we the same as Mustang Applications? good point on the extra capacity.

[burt ragio]

Eaton s/c ported 3lb grooved upper 4lb lower & stock tensioner. What do you think of this tensioner support plate made by Metco #MTP0001 Can this be used effectively with stock tensioner to prevent belt slip ? or should I just get an after market tensioner?. Was thinking or URP.

[justbob]

Yes, I have the ARP 2000 Head studs.

Does Moroso Make a Marauder specific pan? Are we the same as Mustang Applications? good point on the extra capacity.

Moroso #20555 fits perfect.


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[Dragcity]

Thank you for the part number.

Too early to get excited, but at least I am making forward progress.

[Dragcity]

I cannot locate any instructions on how to properly install the jack screws for the main bearings side bolts. I have an early (1994) Teksid block that came with the 8MM side bolts and jack screw system. The jack screws are basically a pass through threaded steel sleeve that the the side bolts slide through to hit the mains. They are hex in the center.

My builder will likely need instructions as this is an odd ball Ford thing that only went on for a few years on the Teksids.

[Dragcity]

Oil Pan coming today. I think one of the final pieces I need is a good flex plate, but have to find out what torque converter to get and if the bolt pattern is different from the stock one??. I went from a 6 bolt to 8 bolt forged crank. I have been bleeding money, so what are the best recommendations out there, before I put a tourniquit on it.

[mustangeddie]

I think one of the final pieces I need is a good flex plate, but have to find out what torque converter to get and if the bolt pattern is different from the stock one??. I went from a 6 bolt to 8 bolt forged crank. . Joe, You looking for an SFI flex plate or just something that will work? I used a stock Ford 8 bolt flex plate part#4C3Z-6375-AA on my stroker bolted right up & my 9.5" FTI converter bolted to the existing holes.

[blazen71]

This one is supposed to work as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004L2UM2Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_im age?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[justbob]

This one is supposed to work as well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004L2UM2Y/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_im age?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yup. I think mine was listed as a 2005 E250 5.4. Fit just fine with stock converter on a friends car. One of those buying parts never to be used moments..


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[Dragcity]

Thanks guys.

The engine builder called to say the Pistons are set to match their new forever homes.

[justbob]

Forever? Dude don’t jinx your own self…
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221205/0a2a0bfbd7add0d931f73a124374ca df.gif


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[Dragcity]

I sure hope so..... I have everything built for 1,200 HP and am only going to build for about 565 HP. I'm going to have to really mess up to ruin that. But, you never do know.

[blazen71]

As long as the engine builder sizes and assembles the motor correctly, you'll be fine. Be sure they size the bores to the piston manufacture's recommendations. Forged pistons usually need a bigger piston to wall clearance than the factory hypereutectic ones.

[justbob]

As long as the engine builder sizes and assembles the motor correctly, you'll be fine. Be sure they size the bores to the piston manufacture's recommendations. Forged pistons usually need a bigger piston to wall clearance than the factory hypereutectic ones.

Yup. Or you’ll have horrible piston slap like my 800 mile old BBC..


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[blazen71]

It's all good Bob. Everyone will think you swapped a Cummins into your truck. Now that's cool :cool:

[Dragcity]

Well, he has. He is asking for oil pump and pick-up tube bolts. He must be close.....

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

A little piston slap never hurt nobody.

[justbob]

Normally I’d agree but mine sounds like a damn powerstroke..


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[Dragcity]

Builder ran out of parts. Timing chain kit on Monday. Getting ever closer.

[Dragcity]

Engine is done. Dropped off transmission last week. I still need to send the supercharger out for port and polish. I feel best putting it on a pallet and wrapping it, with a wooden frame around it. Whos is the best shipper to select?

[Dragcity]

What are the best header gaskets today? I obviously do NOT want to do them ever again.

[blazen71]

What are the best header gaskets today? I obviously do NOT want to do them ever again.Without a doubt, use the OEM gaskets. They are MLS (Multi-Layered-Steel) and work better that any of those gimmicky header gaskets. You can even reuse the OEM gaskets in a pinch and they still won't leak. I know, I've done it!

[blazen71]

Engine is done. Dropped off transmission last week. I still need to send the supercharger out for port and polish. I feel best putting it on a pallet and wrapping it, with a wooden frame around it. Whos is the best shipper to select?
The company I work for uses FedEx Freight, daily.

[Blown3.8]

I reuse the stock header gasket with a thin coat of ultra copper on either side just in case.

Reman outboard engines I get like to package in expanding foam. Not sure how to accomplish the packaging, but I would do something like this. Wrap the blower in a bag, get a big enough box, get some other bags to shoot the foam in. Shoot foam in one bag put it in bottom of box and let it expand some. Put blower on bottom bag. Shoot foam in other bag let it expand, put on top of blower then seal the box top. Let foam cure. Open box and make sure blower is secure. Then you also have a reusable package.

[Dragcity]

I have everything encase in thick Styrofoam. I see these guys throwing packages around like rag dolls. I'll check out Fed Ex Freight.

My engine builder suggest I start out with NGK TR7 plugs. Thoughts?

[RubberCtyRauder]

NGK TR6, I think gapped.028 -.030 for boost. Need to double check that

[justbob]

Depends on boost. Mine were .022 for 20 street/ 26 race.


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[Dragcity]

The engine is home. Transmission still out for a rebuild and custom converter. I need to get a few parts and pieces that were old, damaged or not to my satisfaction. I am waiting for some sort of reasonable weather to push the carcass out and clean the engine bay. Buffalo, NY weather absolutely sucks.

The headers are sand blasted. I need to wire wheel them and see what we have. I may Cerakote them, not sure yet.

My goal is to be ready for a dyno tune by July 4th. Anyone know if Marty can tune by ear from here?

Has anyone done cutouts lately?

[RubberCtyRauder]

Marty can remote tune, you will need to be able to data log

[blazen71]

Marty can remote tune, you will need to be able to data logAnd you need an air/fuel gauge. With the headers out, now is a good time to add an O2 bung for the sensor.

[Dragcity]

I have a wide band installed with guage in steering wheel. Not sure how well my SCT data logs.

That's awesome. Marty can tune remotely.

I love this ****.

[blazen71]

I have a wide band installed with guage in steering wheel. Not sure how well my SCT data logs.

That's awesome. Marty can tune remotely.

I love this ****.I've done a bunch of remote tunes with Marty and Jeff. The process is easy and they're great to work with. They even remote into your laptop the first time and set everything up for you. I use an SCT X3 and it works fine.

[justbob]

The engine is home. Transmission still out for a rebuild and custom converter. I need to get a few parts and pieces that were old, damaged or not to my satisfaction. I am waiting for some sort of reasonable weather to push the carcass out and clean the engine bay. Buffalo, NY weather absolutely sucks.

The headers are sand blasted. I need to wire wheel them and see what we have. I may Cerakote them, not sure yet.

My goal is to be ready for a dyno tune by July 4th. Anyone know if Marty can tune by ear from here?

Has anyone done cutouts lately?

Cut outs will yield you exactly 5 HP, it did for me at least, I was expecting a loss of power.. I still have my 2 1/2” ones with Stainless WYE and turndowns. I think they were QuickTime Performance brand. They’re currently $653 + tax but I’d settle for $300 shipped.

I won’t lie, I was never impressed with the sealing of them. Quite finicky to close all the way and once perfect it still seamed to crack open every now and then. Not what I’d call a perfect design.

I did have one crack it’s shaft in half at one of the screws that hold the door to the shaft. They sent me another motor assembly no questions asked. Other than that they were fun for the time. I have a video of a dyno pull and one super crappy video quality of a drag race that you can get an idea of the roar. marauding4life on YouTube.


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[justbob]

I save you the digging.. Ahh memories gone by [emoji17]

Half open:

https://youtu.be/ML0LmUZQ-2g

Full open:

https://youtu.be/cN9RI30HvgA

https://youtube.com/shorts/8ePs5H4210s?feature=share

https://youtu.be/zx5Res2cWhM


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[Dragcity]

Jeebus that's loud.

I have a dream of putting Lake Pipes down the sides off the cutouts.

[Dragcity]

Getting ready for install. Ordered all new pulleys and tensioner.

I have 39# injectors. I think it would be a good idea to go to 60#. Thoughts?

The transmission is done. 10" 3,200 stall custom converter.

I have ported and polished what I could. Working on port matching exhaust and maximizing flow.

Two questions are injectors and plugs. Tr6 or Tr7?

[RubberCtyRauder]

TR6 plugs..I have 495 rwhp with my trilogy and still on 39lb injectors. Depends on their duty cycle.

[Dragcity]

I might be at 515 RWHP if things go as planned. I have one more size smaller pulley for the Trilogy. I just wantvto make sure I'm covered.

I out 9.5:1 pistons in. Big tuning window with all that.

Teksid block and all forged internals. 7 qt oil on with high volume pump. Ho flow water pump. I hope I got it all right!

[RubberCtyRauder]

I run 2.8 upper, 4lb lower. My compression is higher than yours. I don't know what as it was built before I got it. I run lfp intercooler and a killer chiller

[Dragcity]

Oh yeah. Killer Chiller. I'm not doing that.

Yet...

Is there a drawback to 60lb injectors?

[RubberCtyRauder]

Many run 60lb, so I doubt it. Prolly best to talk with your tuner..Marty/Mo's I assume?

[justbob]

Jeff likes injectors.. I’m pretty sure he’ll say get the 60’s. Call for a final checklist so you’re covered.

I emailed him a list of all mods and specs and he adjusted my list as necessary to avoid issues.


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[blazen71]

60's will be fine and you'll have room to grow! My first marauder was 425whp and it had 60lb injectors. Ran just fine.

[Dragcity]

Thank you guys.

[Dragcity]

Do we have a preferred vendor for a set of flow matched 60# Seimens/Deka USCAR injectors?

I would rather support a friend of ours.

[blazen71]

https://adtr.net/product/mercury-marauder/fuel-mercury-marauder/ford-performance-60-lbhr-injector-set/

[Dragcity]

I a getting ready for the install soon.

I have a crazy question. Is there any benefit or drawback to installing two rear head cooling modifications???

I have the first version that taps into the rear TOP of the heads, crosses over and ties into a fitting welded onto the OEM crossover tube.

I also purchased the preferred method of tapping into the back face of the heads by removing the freeze plugs. I picked up a kit from MMR.

I would like to work all that out before going any further.

I grabbed a quart of Cerekote Glacier Silver to do the headers and lead pipes. Just finishing up cleaning them before a couple nice coats of that stuff.

New Pulleys, injectors and front O2 sensors.

My goal is still July Fourth to back up and running.

[Dragcity]

Well. New engine and transmission are in.

No one told me the starter won't fit with Kooks headers and the Moroso oil pan.

Darn-it.

There is ALWAYS something.

[Dragcity]

This SUCK out loud.

So much for progress.

[Marauderjack]

I feel your pain Joe.......
I built a SBC 400 for my boat with balanced internals!! When I installed it the damn flywheel was too BIG to go into the bell housing.....WHAT!!:confused::m ad2: Marine flywheel was 10" or something smaller than what I had....UGH....do over time!!:censor:
Hope ya get it sorted out soon my friend.......GOOD LUCK and HAPPY INDEPENDENCE DAY!!:beer:

[Dragcity]

Hay Jack! Awesome to hear from you.

I got it done last night. Had to Un-bolt the header, move it the 3/4" I needed and sneak the starter in. What a pain. Another six hours to un-do and re-do.

Wiring harnesses next up.

[Marauderjack]

Glad ya got it Joe....GOOD LUCK with wiring.........another of my mysterious and not fun jobs!!

Hope ya had a nice Independence Day!!

[justbob]

Next time purchase a billet mini starter and it will slide in with ease. You can clock them to fit whatever application you got.

Plus the gear reduction is awesome for faster starts.

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[Dragcity]

I almost ordered one

[Dragcity]

Well, almost there. Its been two steps forward, three steps back. Last night was five steps forward, one step back. The one bolt for the supercharger tensioner bracket is just a bit too short for this old Teksid block. Only four threads worth of contact. Pulled the aluminum out of the block. Had to order a 170 mm 8 X 1.25 Cap bolt to replace the 138 MM bolt.

One question on the throttle body spacer plate. The Trilogy instruction show the plate covering the void in the back of the throttle body. (on top) Is that proper? What is the void, and why is it covered?

[justbob]

Well, almost there. Its been two steps forward, three steps back. Last night was five steps forward, one step back. The one bolt for the supercharger tensioner bracket is just a bit too short for this old Teksid block. Only four threads worth of contact. Pulled the aluminum out of the block. Had to order a 170 mm 8 X 1.25 Cap bolt to replace the 138 MM bolt.

One question on the throttle body spacer plate. The Trilogy instruction show the plate covering the void in the back of the throttle body. (on top) Is that proper? What is the void, and why is it covered?

Probably a misprint. Line up all the holes, it’s the air path for the IAC to allow air past the closed throttle blades.


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[Dragcity]

52834

So, the void at tor of the back side of the throttle body is supposed to be open? That aluminum adapter plate can be installed with the hooya up or down. Up, it blocks off the void. Down is only blocks a small portion.

Confused...

[Dragcity]

All the parts are on the car, except the hood. Started the new engine last night with a base idle tune. Water temp @ 190. No Knocks, ticks, leaks or drips.

Thank you for all your assistance in the decision making process. I am looking forward to a great remote tuning session with Mo's. I will keep y'all posted on the outcome.

[Dragcity]

Tuned and on the road. What an experience is all I can say. My neighbors were (mostly) happy to see me back on the road. I need a quieter exhaust!

Now time to put some miles on the thing.

One really great thing is, this new engine feels way more stable at 6,000 RPM than the factory engine ever did at 4,000 RPM. Amazing what balancing all the internal parts will do. Not to mention putting remarkably strong forged stuff in there.

[Marauderjack]

Congratulations Joe....it's been a LONG road so now ENJOY IT!!:beer::banana2:

[blazen71]

Congrats! Glad you're back on the road. Good feeling, isn't it?

[Marauderjack]

Hey Dave.....how's it going??:confused:

[Dragcity]

Thanks!

Working out some bugs.

Seems my boost guage crapped out on me. It reads 20 lb vacuum key off, parked.

Will that effect A/F ratio? I seem to remember something about the Boost a Pump being linked to that.

Always something, if not, it's something else....

[blazen71]

I have no experience with a Boost a pump but if it has a vacuum line going to it, pull the line off and see what the vacuum is at that line with the car running. Should be around 20 in. of vacuum. If it reads good you should be fine

[Marauderjack]

Hellooooooooo Dave........see post #141!!:D