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malibill
05-14-2022, 02:27 PM
Hi Bill here , have a problem with my 2003 marauder I took it out for a spin ran great no problems parked in driveway came back out an hour later and tuned key all dash lights came on but would not crank when you turned key to engage starter?? I checked the battery only a few months old had more than the 12 volts needed and then started to check everything else.. I have 12 volts at the starter pretty new only a few months old changed the neutral safety switch , the ignition switch checked the solenoid wire coming off the starter to the pdb under the hood all good checked the starter relay also good and can start the car no problem by turning ignition on and removing starter relay and jumping from 12 volt side of rely to the solenoid side and it will crank and start no problem??.. I have checked every fuse and relay with a test light and physical removed and inspected them both in the pdb under hood and fuse box located under dash panel.. Short of installing a push button I am not sure what else it could be??. The car is basically un molested wring has the factory security system that appears to be working it will lock and unlock doors and trunk as it should d do when you turn ignition on with key the light for the security system on the stops blinking.. I am pretty sure that is normal I really do want to install a starter button but the only way of starting it is to jump to relay .. It is only failing in the crank position I have tried both keys and both remotes the remotes only control the doors and trunk as far as i know no remote start or anything like that .. The wires in the car look like brand new and no splices anywhere I also checked all the grounds that I could find and they are all clean and no corrosion.. I spoke with mustang ed as we live pretty close and he is very knowledgably on the marauders and he feels that I have tried just about everything he would?? At a loss here I really do not want to splice into harness if I do not have to but running out of options any help or advice would be greatly appreciated.. It takes me a while to get back to anybody as I am not good on pc and my son is a way he normally helps out . just letting you know in advance not being rude just a little slow lol, (on the computer lol).. Thanks in advance and thanks to Ed he has been helping me as much as he can I do appreciate all the help I can get.. Bill

BLACKMARAUDER04
05-14-2022, 03:08 PM
Check your PATS fuse. I had that happen to me while on a short drive in my silver just after acquiring it.
I stopped and when I came back the car was dead.
Found out it was a blown fuse.


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BLACKMARAUDER04
05-14-2022, 03:10 PM
Also make sure the car is in park or neutral. Your gear shift could be off a 1/2 gear when shifting. (My black has that problem)


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malibill
05-14-2022, 08:27 PM
Check your PATS fuse. I had that happen to me while on a short drive in my silver just after acquiring it.
I stopped and when I came back the car was dead.
Found out it was a blown fuse.


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Thanks I believe i checked every fuse I could find ?? not sure which fuse it is but I will go over them again .. I tried moving the shifter also made sure it was in park and checked it in every position .. It is crazy.. ,but thank you for the advice..,

RubberCtyRauder
05-15-2022, 02:11 AM
When you turn key to "on", but not try to start, do you hear fuel pump prime?

malibill
05-15-2022, 05:05 AM
yes, everything seems to be working as it should when i tun to ignition on the pump primes I open the hood and jump the relay and it will fire right up..,

Agent2006
05-15-2022, 06:23 AM
Bad ignition switch....

malibill
05-15-2022, 06:34 AM
I replaced the switch that mounts to the Colum with a known working switch when i had it out i had it plugged into the harness and tried it it would power the dash and do as it should but when you move it to the crank position nothing .. Unless you are referring to the key cylinder itself but the test I did when it was unbolted from the column should have made the engine crank?? Thanks for the input..

malibill
05-15-2022, 06:36 AM
went over all the fuses and relays again all test good, was hoping I missed something, but no such luck will keep trying lol thanks again

svtmerc
05-15-2022, 07:12 AM
I know you said you tried cranking in each shifter position, but try holding the key to crank continuously while cycling all shifter positions.... just grasping at straws here, but you never know.

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RubberCtyRauder
05-15-2022, 07:53 AM
Is the PATS light working on the dash? Is it flashing?

malibill
05-15-2022, 08:15 AM
I know you said you tried cranking in each shifter position, but try holding the key to crank continuously while cycling all shifter positions.... just grasping at straws here, but you never know.

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Thanks yes gave that a shot also nothing even tried moving the neutral safety switch a little still nothing but Thank you..

malibill
05-15-2022, 08:16 AM
yes, it is flashing until you turn the key to the on position??

SilverPhoenix
05-15-2022, 08:56 AM
yes, everything seems to be working as it should when i tun to ignition on the pump primes I open the hood and jump the relay and it will fire right up..,

Don't know much about cars/electronics, but when you say you 'jump' the relay, is this the same as bypassing it? If the only time the car will start is when you 'jump' the relay, then I would think the relay itself is bad or what it connects to is not providing a solid connection.

Just taking a shot in the dark with my limited knowledge...sometimes it takes a simple mind to find the simple solution...lol.

malibill
05-15-2022, 09:17 AM
Thanks relay is good only three wires under the relay 1 is for 12volts that works 2nd wire is directly to solenoid on starter i jump from 12 volts to solenoid and car will start with key in the on position .. The third and last wire is I am guessing from the computer and gives it a signal to allow it to engage starter I am not getting any power or signal at that wire I am trying to find a diagram for wiring but have not located that wire yet...

massacre
05-16-2022, 08:12 AM
Relays are basically electrically-operated switches. Usually they have (4) wires. Sometimes 5.
(2) of the wires would be the high current circuit, the other (2) wires are what activate the switch.
Wire 1 = 12v high current into relay
Wire 2 = 12v high current out of relay
Wire 3 = 12 low current to activate relay (trigger wire)
Wire 4 = ground to activate relay

Most relays have a diagram on them that should describe the circuit and which legs do what.

blazen71
05-16-2022, 10:47 AM
Bad ignition switch....I would also try this^^^^^^^

justbob
05-16-2022, 12:38 PM
See if the PCM isn’t actually sending a ground signal instead of a positive to trigger the relay.

Never heard of a 3 legged relay? Like stated a four or five.

Only three things I can think of assuming the relay is in fact good. (I’m trusting you swapped with another)

1) a 100% bad range selector switch or wiring from it to PCM. However I’ve never seen one fail in both neutral and park positions.

2) a bad PCM but doubtful

3) a broken ground in the starting circuitry.

How many tabs are on the actual relay? It wouldn’t be the first I’ve seen where the wiring came loose and dropped inside the fuse box. I’ve seen it at least twice on cooling fan relays that got a tad too warm.

You could really use the help of alldatadyi.com and it’s easy to navigate diagrams and definitely a powerprobe.


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massacre
05-16-2022, 02:17 PM
Yeah when i heard 3 wires at the relay that did not sound right

malibill
05-17-2022, 04:32 AM
Yes , you are correct I re checked and the relay does have four wires and they are all tight and free of corrosion in pdb I was able to get a better look by loosing the harness that goes down by the inner fender .. I did switch the relays out with know working relays and also a few new ones I had .. I also re checked the grounds that I could find one is right by the battery also under the on the drivers side by the lift rod and they are clean tight connections and free of any corrosion.. really not sure what to do at this point I think I have exhausted all possibilities with my limited abilities and scanning equipment I really appreciate all the help any advice I have been receiving I think it is going to turn out to be something that I am just simply missing?? Hopefully I will get to the bottom of failure and repair it but for now I will just use the starter button as i would like to drive the car..

malibill
05-17-2022, 05:49 AM
Yes , you are correct I re checked and the relay does have four wires and they are all tight and free of corrosion in pdb I was able to get a better look by loosing the harness that goes down by the inner fender .. I did switch the relays out with know working relays and also a few new ones I had .. I also re checked the grounds that I could find one is right by the battery also under the on the drivers side by the lift rod and they are clean tight connections and free of any corrosion.. really not sure what to do at this point I think I have exhausted all possibilities with my limited abilities and scanning equipment I really appreciate all the help any advice I have been receiving I think it is going to turn out to be something that I am just simply missing?? Hopefully I will get to the bottom of failure and repair it but for now I will just use the starter button as i would like to drive the car..
Thanks yes changed that also and , at least the one that bolts to the column above your knee if you were in drivers seat .. It will turn ign. on just will not engage starter.. tried it installed and place and also removed with harness attached and tried it to crank position and same result nothing.. thanks again

massacre
05-19-2022, 05:52 AM
If you have a test light you can test this circuit. Check for 12v at the small starter wire with the key in "start" position. If nothing, check for 12v at the MLPS with key in "start" position.
If you have power at the MLPS, and none at the starter then your problem lies between the MLPS and the starter. Could be a broken/corroded wire or misaligned or pushed in terminal.

Diagnosing electrical/wiring is really just a process of elimination. Start at 1 end of the circuit (ignition switch) and see if you have power there. Then follow the circuit through its various travels checking for power at each interval/location. If you have 12v power from the switch, through the MLPS, and all the way to the starter then i would say the circuit is fine and your problem lies elsewhere.

malibill
05-19-2022, 06:41 AM
Thank you yes I have a test light been using it not sure what you mean by the mlps? another check i did was to turn key to crank and go to fuse box in car and see if the fuse forget the number i think number 8 would test positive when you turned it to crank .. it has one side of fuse hot when you turn key to on position and when you attempt to make it crank the other side of fuse test positive so the key is telling it to crank at least up to that point in the fuse box.. not sure if that is where you are saying to check?? I did the same test under starter relay in the power dist box under hood and I only get 12 v on the one connector,, It seems like it it not getting a signal from the interior fuse box to the starter relay under the hood?? I am not sure if I am making sense but figured I would let you know some of the test I did.. Thank you

massacre
05-19-2022, 02:35 PM
The MLPS is basically the neutral safety switch. Manual Lever Position Sensor. Mounted on the shifter shaft on the transmission. 2 bolts an an electrical harness. Tells the ECM what gear the car is in. Also called transmission range sensor.
From reading your description of the "fuse" it is slightly confusing. Both legs of any fuse should both read good with test light. Otherwise the fuse is bad.

Do you have access to a wiring diagram for your car?

malibill
05-19-2022, 04:50 PM
i guess unplug it and test with light and turning key?? the fuse is definitely good I checked it with test light and physically removed it and swapped it out with another new fuse same results, not sure if I am explaining it correctly but what I am saying is only one side is live until you turn key to engage starter when you do the fuse is live on both sides as the circuit is completed when you let go of key from start position the one side is no longer live if it was the starter would be continuous at least that is how I am understanding it?? I am not that good with electrical issues but willing to learn lol Thanks again.. will try that tom after work or sat will post

massacre
05-20-2022, 03:44 AM
When you say fuse, are you referring to a relay?
That is what it sounds like.
Automotive wiring can be intimidating, lots of people are in the same boat lol

Having a diagram is incredibly helpful as it describes all of the circuits and their locations. No guessing.

malibill
05-20-2022, 04:47 AM
no definitely not a relay it is located inside the car in fuse box I believe it is number 8 a fuse has two prongs one side is constant with key on and the other side does not get power or become hot until you turn key fully to the crank position., this seems correct to me if it was not like this the starter would be engaged all the time ,, like I said I am not really into the electrical end of car but I think that is working??

Agent2006
05-20-2022, 05:36 AM
Only other thing I can guess is...its not reading the key. Different than reading a wrong key which would trigger the PATS....

Take the key off a key ring if it is on one and try it by itself...

malibill
05-20-2022, 05:15 PM
Only other thing I can guess is...its not reading the key. Different than reading a wrong key which would trigger the PATS....

Take the key off a key ring if it is on one and try it by itself...
Thanks no key is by itself no other key also tried the second key i have same results but thank you for the advice... Gremlins?? lol

massacre
05-20-2022, 07:57 PM
Do you have 12v at the ignition switch?

malibill
05-21-2022, 06:06 AM
yes 12 volts at the switch..

malibill
05-21-2022, 06:20 AM
also when you insert key and turn ignition on it does power everything including fuel pump it just will not engage starter .. I normally start it by inserting key turn to on and jump starter relay.. to shut it off i use the key by turning it to off or lock position..

massacre
05-21-2022, 03:59 PM
Do you have 12v leaving the switch in the start position?

massacre
05-21-2022, 11:11 PM
I'm not sure what else i can do to help you over the internet.
You need to check for voltage along the path of the starting circuit from beginning to end, and figure out where you are losing power.
Good luck and let us know what you find.

malibill
05-23-2022, 11:32 AM
yes , Thank you I do have 12 volts at the starter .. I really not that good with the electrical but that is what I have been trying to do I am hoping I will find a bad connection or broken wire somewhere unfortunetly no one around when I need help with turning the key lol .. I will let you know as soon as I find the problem.. ., Thanks again

massacre
05-23-2022, 12:22 PM
You should have 12v at the large terminal on the starter solenoid all the time. The SMALL terminal on the starter solenoid is where the "trigger wire" connects to the starting circuit. You should ONLY see 12v on this SMALL terminal with the key in the start position with trans in park or neutral.

52422
Click the pic to enlarge

malibill
05-23-2022, 01:15 PM
Yes that is my problem no signal to the solenoid wire and checked it is not broken or corroded it goes from the starter solenoid to the pdb to the starter relay I can jump it from the 12 v side of the relay to the solenoid side and with the key on car will start it is like the relay is not getting the signal to crank??

Comin' in Hot
05-23-2022, 02:30 PM
try starting it in neutral?

malibill
05-23-2022, 03:07 PM
Yes tried every gear even tried with a known working neutral safety switch from another marauder ,(Thank you Ed lol ) same results even changed the ignition switch on column.. Thanks

massacre
05-23-2022, 05:17 PM
Can you post a pic of the diagram on the relay? And the PDB with relay removed.

massacre
05-23-2022, 05:19 PM
52423

In this case the light bulb is your starter. The "switch" is the signal from the ignition switch in the "start" position. Battery and ground are same.
This is where a diagram will help but you can do it without a diagram if you have a volt meter

malibill
05-23-2022, 06:01 PM
Thanks I know I have the 12 volts and I know the starter or light bulb position I think the switch is where my problem is.. I tried a test light on that pin and tuned key to crank position but no light so it must be something to do with that wire ?? I did check the ground also it looks brand new no corrasion good contact?? i have to keep digging the diagram is helpful Thanks again..

justbob
05-23-2022, 06:46 PM
Now take a breath and go back to what I said last week.

Your ground can look great and not function. The ground comes from the PCM but only if PATS allows it to start. So that ground isn’t grounded until you hit the key and only if the PCM commands so.

So take your test light and plug it onto positive at the battery and touch the tip to the ground contact. It should not light up. Now do the same while holding the key to start and it should light up.

If it lights up then move to the next phase.

The wire that gets 12v from the switch will only do so if the transmission range selector switch is operating correctly and sees a park or neutral signal.

There is easily 2 or 3 fuses that can interrupt the starting circuit. I believe one is even a maxi fuse.


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malibill
05-23-2022, 07:15 PM
Ok Thanks I will give it a shot tomorrow .., hopefully you guys are on to something I have my fingers crossed.. lol

massacre
05-23-2022, 08:12 PM
I typed out a long thing about relays but deleted it.
Thanks justbob for explaining it.

malibill
05-24-2022, 06:28 AM
Ok so I had my son help me this am turning the key to the crank position while test lamp was hooked to the positive side of battery testing for ground. With ignition off nothing turn ignition on to crank and light goes on .. I still have the 12 volts when ignition is turned on .. just thought I would post what I tested .. I myself unfortunately am running to work so will get back on this afternoon I hope Thanks again,,

justbob
05-24-2022, 08:57 PM
So to clarify

1) it’s getting a ground with ignition

2) it has constant 12v

3) it has keyed 12v

Correct?

If so you should check it all again with a multimeter and make sure it’s actually 12v. If it’s significantly less (like a failing trans range sensor or a partially broken/corroded wire) then it might simply not be enough voltage to jump the relay.


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1Marauder
05-25-2022, 12:22 AM
Story, have to ask... Have you tried jumper cables or switched out to new battery (to make sure battery is fully charged). Brake safet-Neutral safety switch?

malibill
05-25-2022, 04:40 AM
yes , switched out battery to make sure it was not a bad cell or something both have more than 12 volts all good don't forget it cranks as it should if you jump out starter relay, but thanks for the input I appreciate any and all thoughts. advice,,

malibill
05-25-2022, 04:42 AM
Ok will do hopefully this afternoon.,, Has to be something that I am missing,,

1Marauder
05-27-2022, 12:16 AM
Ok, so it cranks as it should if you jump the starter relay... but it doesn't start? Power (electrical), gas, air. All of Your CIA intake is secure and no leaks? You have checked the Scraeder Valves and have gas pumping to the motor... I am still at the brake safety nuetral switch... or the starter relay. Change out the relays or swap them?

1Marauder
05-27-2022, 12:20 AM
I had a crazy no start, and it was the brake safety switch thing, at the brake peddle. Made no sense whatsoever ever... everyone was stumped. I changed it AND the relay, and issue disappeared. It wasn't logical nor straightforward. Also, rock car in gear front to back, N to D.

malibill
05-27-2022, 05:14 AM
ok yes if you put key in ignition turn it all dash lights will go on and fuel pump will prime turn the key all the way to crank and no crank leave ignition on and remove starter relay go from 12 volt side to solenoid wire and it fires right up and runs perfect to shut off just turn key to off position and car shuts down.. I have changed the neutral safety switch with a brand new one made sure it was installed correctly and aligned as it should be and same results?? , Then a friend lent me one from a know running marauder and same results I also changed the ignition column switch the one under gauges over your knee attached to column and same results?? I have checked and rechecked every fuse and relay both in the fuse box under dash board and the pdb by the battery also checked the grounds by the battery and the one that is located under the hood pump on drivers side fender and any other grounds I could find?? when you urn the key to crank from the on position you can see the dash lights change a little as if it were going to crank,, not sure what else to try ?? I do appreciate the input.. Bill

malibill
05-27-2022, 05:17 AM
Hey i will give it a shot nothing to loose at this point.. I have tried rocking it and also moved the gear selector in every position possible I will see about the brake relay switch Thank you..

SilverPhoenix
05-27-2022, 09:34 AM
Hey i will give it a shot nothing to loose at this point.. I have tried rocking it and also moved the gear selector in every position possible I will see about the brake relay switch Thank you..

Have you tried starting it with the gear selector in neutral?

massacre
05-28-2022, 04:06 AM
You will need to learn how to diagnose wiring circuits. A wiring diagram will show you the path that the starting circuit follows from the battery to the starter. We can make suggestions but cannot test the circuit over the internet.

justbob
05-28-2022, 08:59 AM
Still waiting on reply from post 47?


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malibill
05-28-2022, 10:08 AM
Ok sorry was stuck working late at night yes constant 12 volts keyed 12 volts and getting ground with test light to positive and touch pin under relay also checked the ground by battery box.. So tired i thought I answered it I appreciate all the help I can get , just for the hell of it I switched batterys with my ford van same battery and had exact same results ...

malibill
05-28-2022, 10:09 AM
I had a crazy no start, and it was the brake safety switch thing, at the brake peddle. Made no sense whatsoever ever... everyone was stumped. I changed it AND the relay, and issue disappeared. It wasn't logical nor straightforward. Also, rock car in gear front to back, N to D.
Changed it out with brand new one same results but Thanks was worth a shot

malibill
05-28-2022, 10:10 AM
Have you tried starting it with the gear selector in neutral?
yes tried every gear..Thanks

malibill
05-28-2022, 10:14 AM
You will need to learn how to diagnose wiring circuits. A wiring diagram will show you the path that the starting circuit follows from the battery to the starter. We can make suggestions but cannot test the circuit over the internet.
yes I mentioned earlier in post that my electrical knowledge was pretty limited .. I have been trying., when I asked for help I was really hoping somebody had run across this problem and it might have been a simple fix I am really doing the best I can with my limited knowledge I am more mechanical then electrical but willing to try and learn , so Thanks for your help I do appreciate it..

justbob
05-28-2022, 05:38 PM
Not sure what else to say? If you have 12v, keyed 12v, and keyed ground, then there is only one wire left that obviously works because you jump it and she starts. That only leaves a bad relay and you said you swapped it.

As far as I know there is nothing else to the system?


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malibill
05-28-2022, 07:08 PM
Not sure what else to say? If you have 12v, keyed 12v, and keyed ground, then there is only one wire left that obviously works because you jump it and she starts. That only leaves a bad relay and you said you swapped it.

As far as I know there is nothing else to the system?


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Yes I am no auto electric guy but I can not figure it out either.. .? I was wondering if the ignition or pats system is not recognizing the key and not allowing it to crank.

justbob
05-28-2022, 09:18 PM
Pats is working or you wouldn’t have a keyed ground.

Curious, what voltage readings you found at the ground? Perhaps it isn’t enough to trip the relay.

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malibill
05-29-2022, 04:27 AM
Ok thanks I guess I will just keep searching hopefully stumble across it . Thank you again for your advice and help of course I will post if I find the answer but for now it will be a starter button lol BILL

BLACKMARAUDER04
07-18-2022, 02:27 PM
It could be the Anti-theft-ignition Immobilizer Module 3W1Z15607AA.
This could prevent the car from starting.


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SilverPhoenix
07-18-2022, 02:56 PM
Yeah, whatever happened with this issue? Thread just went silent...

mustangeddie
07-18-2022, 04:14 PM
It could be the Anti-theft-ignition Immobilizer Module 3W1Z15607AA.
This could prevent the car from starting.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkNope tried that last week didn't work.

mustangeddie
07-18-2022, 04:19 PM
Yeah, whatever happened with this issue? Thread just went silent...Still ongoing... Bill came here last week & we tried a couple of things that didn't work. After seeing the car in person I'm thinking it is a pats problem. Light on dash is blinking too rapidly. Both of us only have basic scanners waiting for a friend who has a more comprehensive scanner to come by & see if there are any pats fault codes.

SilverPhoenix
07-18-2022, 06:04 PM
Still ongoing... Bill came here last week & we tried a couple of things that didn't work. After seeing the car in person I'm thinking it is a pats problem. Light on dash is blinking too rapidly. Both of us only have basic scanners waiting for a friend who has a more comprehensive scanner to come by & see if there are any pats fault codes.

Didn't realize he was in your neck o' the woods...always nice to have someone nearby that can help!

mustangeddie
07-18-2022, 06:40 PM
Didn't realize he was in your neck o' the woods...always nice to have someone nearby that can help! Yeah he's about 10 miles away & purchased a few things from me in the past. This is a very frustrating problem...have replaced a bunch of the obvious with known good parts & still no resolution. My knowledge of the pats system is nil but I do have the Ford service manual on disc that has pointed me to some pats trouble codes just need the proper scanner to see if any are stored.

Agent2006
07-19-2022, 09:02 AM
Yeah he's about 10 miles away & purchased a few things from me in the past. This is a very frustrating problem...have replaced a bunch of the obvious with known good parts & still no resolution. My knowledge of the pats system is nil but I do have the Ford service manual on disc that has pointed me to some pats trouble codes just need the proper scanner to see if any are stored.

When you get the scanner that can read and report PATS codes, that'll tell you something, also watch the red light. A properly functioning PATS will flash every 2 secs with no key, as a visual deterrent. Turn the key to RUN, it will glow steady 3 secs then go out. PATS violations will rapidly flash in RUN for about 3 mins...then it will go out. WATCH THE RED LIGHT, it will now flash a two digit code...1 -1 or 1-6...count the flashes. You don't need a scanner for this. Look up that code online. Mine was flashing 1-1 over and over...not getting a key signal to the PCM. it is either the PCM , the key or the immobilizer, and you already checked the last two...maybe Eddie can lend you a spare PCM then jump the solenoid to crank over the car. Important point, my car would start with the wrong PCM as long as the immobilizer gave it the wrong signal, but NOT with the correct key and no signal....apparently no signal either right or wrong will not let the PCM initiate the start sequence. Good luck .

SilverPhoenix
09-12-2022, 01:57 PM
In case you guys are still dealing with this, I discovered this YT video a little while ago:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHEUHgfh3OA

mustangeddie
09-12-2022, 02:53 PM
Thanks Kyle

malibill
09-29-2022, 06:07 PM
Thank you so much yes, I am still dealing with the no crank issues Eddie has been a lot of help lent me parts gave some good advice even tried to help me, but I think the video will be a great help,. By the way ed called me to tell me of the video so I guess that is where I will look next... Again thank you all for all your help I have been extremely busy at work and some family issues so unfortunately time is my other problem...

1Marauder
12-28-2022, 01:58 PM
Malibill, WHAT WAS THE CULPRIT? Did you get it fixed? My 18,000 mile like new sled, caught this bug from yours. Please share final solution!

mustangeddie
12-31-2022, 04:33 PM
Malibill, WHAT WAS THE CULPRIT? Did you get it fixed? My 18,000 mile like new sled, caught this bug from yours. Please share final solution!
It was the wiring harness that connects to the neutral safety switch. Refer to the video Kyle posted post #73.

justbob
01-01-2023, 03:35 PM
Why am I not amazed that it took a video to address something easily solved two days after originally posting up the question?


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mustangeddie
01-01-2023, 04:57 PM
justbob;Why am I not amazed that it took a video to address something easily solved two days after originally posting up the question?

If you watched it took the fellow that owned the car in the video a year to diagnose the problem so not easily solved. Bill came here several times & I lent him several of what were thought to be the obvious parts & at one point gave him the harness never seeing the car. He also stated early in this thread his time & electrical knowledge were limited so no reason to bash him about it. Can't you just be happy for the guy he finally got his car fixed.

SilverPhoenix
01-01-2023, 10:09 PM
I'm amazed that I actually pointed someone in the right direction in fixing their MM; now if I could only do that for myself in relation to my MM...lol.

mustangeddie
01-01-2023, 10:28 PM
I'm amazed that I actually pointed someone in the right direction in fixing their MM; now if I could only do that for myself in relation to my MM...lol.
It was much appreciated Kyle. I'm actually in the process of buying a house in Albemarle once I move & get set up if I can help you with anything I'd be happy to.

justbob
01-01-2023, 10:58 PM
Yes easily solved. I come from a time where we didn’t have YouTube, you figured it out yourself. This is about as basic as you can get in vehicle wiring.

He had to jump a relay so that narrows it way down. I mean he literally did most of the work narrowing it down himself! So yes, the rest was too easy, at least when it’s handed to him.

And why should I be happy for him? I obviously wasted my time explaining the operation of not only the relay but what exactly to look for with a $6 Harbor Freight multimeter all from under his hood! This could have been diagnosed in less time than watching the video, much less MONTHS after I wasted my time on him..

I understand he doesn’t know much. That’s exactly why I took the time to explain it.

You obviously wasted your time as well if you gave him the parts and he didn’t bother trying them out. Why even come on here and waste member’s time and not USE the knowledge or even parts for that matter offered to him? Should I have used bright vibrant colors in my wording??

This is exactly one of the reasons why there is very little tech help here anymore.


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mustangeddie
01-01-2023, 11:18 PM
It was not as easy as you believe. I'm older than you so I don't use you tube to diagnose things but in this instance it was a big help. I don't claim to know everything & still learn new things frequently. Again maybe if you watched the video you would see why the $6 harbor freight voltmeter or any voltmeter wasn't going to help. In that video the harness had power all the way to the switch both sides of the connecter but for some reason it was not making contact in the switch when plugged in. I also don't consider my time wasted as I met a fellow Marauder enthusiast who is a great guy & was more than happy to help him out.

justbob
01-02-2023, 10:33 AM
So what you are saying is he could not have clearly seen that he wasn’t getting a full keyed 12v’s to the relay with a multimeter? What magical tool would tell you then?

This would have lead him directly to the range switch and it’s connector.

Two simple steps of following the path. With a multimeter.


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1Marauder
01-02-2023, 11:34 AM
Thank you all for the information. Question: I have seen, after researching this issue, that others have installed a separate push button starter over-ride, where they "hide" the button. Would this option "solve" the issue above? Ok, maybe "solve" is the wrong term... Would this be an alternate solution?

mustangeddie
01-02-2023, 12:28 PM
Thank you all for the information. Question: I have seen, after researching this issue, that others have installed a separate push button starter over-ride, where they "hide" the button. Would this option "solve" the issue above? Ok, maybe "solve" is the wrong term... Would this be an alternate solution?Bill had put a temporary one under the hood so he didn't have to run wires through the firewall. I guess it's just your preference where to put it but if it were mine I would just replace the harness to the neutral safety switch.

SilverPhoenix
01-02-2023, 07:32 PM
It was much appreciated Kyle. I'm actually in the process of buying a house in Albemarle once I move & get set up if I can help you with anything I'd be happy to.

Seriously? Holy crap...Albemarle is only 30ish minutes from me! When are you moving down here? I promise I'll wait until the day after to start bugging you...lol.

mustangeddie
01-02-2023, 07:40 PM
duplicate ...

mustangeddie
01-02-2023, 08:05 PM
Seriously? Holy crap...Albemarle is only 30ish minutes from me! When are you moving down here? I promise I'll wait until the day after to start bugging you...lol.Depends on when the fellow I'm buying the house from finishes his new one but should be around Sep-Oct. I knew you weren't too far that's why i mentioned it.

1Marauder
01-03-2023, 01:39 AM
Wish I had a Marauder buddy that close!

massacre
01-09-2023, 10:03 AM
Justbob is correct on this IMHO.
Either way glad it got solved

Marauder1212
08-04-2023, 04:56 PM
My marauder had the same issues I wired in a new neutral safety switch wire hardness and fired right up...only pain was the new motorcraft hardness wasn't color coded so had to wire in one at a time..

Marauder1212
08-04-2023, 05:01 PM
This is the same video I found and i wired in the new neutral safety switch wire hardness and viola. Fires right up everytime

1Marauder
08-15-2024, 09:35 AM
My 19,000 mile black left my wife and I to sit an extra 1.5 hours… not cranking at all… after lunch Sunday. [Thank goodness she is such a great sport - She just said, “Don’t worry, it will start. It is a beautiful day. We’ll just hang out for an hour or two until it does.” I had checked with two tow companies and each wanted approx $400 to tow me 40 miles home. Thankfully, it started (after trying to jump start it twice, rocking it, trying all gears, and openly cursing at it) 1.5 hours later. Thank you to ALL ABOVE for the invaluable data… I really appreciate the OP’s positive attitude, and all of the time and expertise shared toward the solve. When it starts next, I will drive it straight to my mechanic — and share all above. Again, many thanks.

BLACKMARAUDER04
08-24-2024, 11:15 AM
Sounds like your Fuel pump overheated and when it cooled down, the car started.


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1Marauder
08-25-2024, 12:17 AM
New fuel pump and gas tank out-full clean before this happened.Have also replaced all relays, brake-stop tranny sensor… etc. thinking @ short in thr system.

BLACKMARAUDER04
08-30-2024, 11:17 AM
In the trunk there is a fuel relay. It’s chrome. It may have gone bad


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BLACKMARAUDER04
08-31-2024, 07:28 AM
Also the fuel relay under the hood is known to go bad


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