CVPI exhaust, YES it fits the MM

[Agent2006]

Hello,

There is the SW exhaust, w/X pipe stainless looks real nice, but it's $1389 at JEGS

For $357 you can get a new cat back on your car, I got these from Amazon/ebay...

H pipe = $59
L muffler (ebay, oem Ford for a 1997 MGM) = $25
R muffler = $93
L tailpipe = $68
R tailpipe = $56
Hardware = 8 M10 SS bolts, washers , nuts, lock washers from ACE hardware = $40
Gaskets for flange = $16

Total = $357.

hardest part of the job= cutting then drilling out the cat flange to H pipe bolts. Took hours using a hand drill with new carbide bit set from Lowes...

Quiet as a town car, but nice growl 4,000 rpm and above. Better low end power, reused two 2" clamps I had laying around. I'll post a pic tomorrow... too dark out there now

Cheers
Agent 2006

[offroadkarter]

yeah its pretty common knowledge that from the H pipe to the rear is all the same pipe layout, it was the manifolds and midpipes that changed on the marauder vs the 2v cars due to the heads.

[Comin' in Hot]

Snap those bolts with breaker bars and move on

[gdmjoe]

Agent2006... For $357 you can get a new cat back on your car, I got these from Amazon/ebay...

H pipe = $59
L muffler (ebay, oem Ford for a 1997 MGM) = $25
R muffler = $93
L tailpipe = $68
R tailpipe = $56...
Are those components stainless steel?
.

[Agent2006]

Are those components stainless steel?
.

No they're Walker parts EXCEPT the left (Ford) muffler. So that oughta look odd under there in a few years. But for now they've sat outside in the elements since Feb, and look like new. I'm trying to avoid the salt these days in favor of driving the MGM on those days. 175k on that one.

Bolts were stuck in the cat to h pipe flange, local shop wanted to slice the flanges off and weld pipes. Lazy! Then when you have to drop the trans, I guess you are cutting the exhaust up. It took a few hours, yeah I cut the bolt head and speed nut off, Cut through the flange mating surface...Would not hammer out. So I had to go up one drill size at a time from pilot hole to 3/8.... carbide bits too. The HF fake yellow CryTanium bits would not make a scratch. believe me I was swinging a 2 lb maul onto a center punch = nothing. Saying all this for any future exhaust swappers who might be reading this....

[Agent2006]

One more thought, #395 is a driver car, main reason to share info is to keep as many of these rolling on the road as we can, what a sad day it was around 1985 when I looked around and there were no more Mach 1s or SCJ Torinos At the red lights....only trailer queens left sitting at shows. So for the Trilogy cars and the $25k beauties keep doing what you guys are doing! Meanwhile , SUV putt putters: keep an eye on the rear view mirror for this beast and other remaining MMs closing at a fast rate heh heh...

[Serge]

Walker rusts out within 2 years in the rust belt. Wouldn't put those on anything.

[musclemerc]

Threads like these make me laugh every time I read them.
Better than SW (Not even comparable) SW is Mandrel bent SS
More TQ (measured by what?) My guess your overly excited butt-o-meter.
Pics always show the true hackery.

[Agent2006]

Final comments:
Didn't say this system is "better" than SW we all know it is not, just $1000 cheaper. For you/I working stiffs trying to keep it running.
Mandrel bent tailpipes won't make any difference vs crush bend on a stock car
Don't drive these all winter in the salt and the Walker will last longer. Good point though, I replaced a LM1 with a Moroso spiral flow on an F body down in SW WV and the muffler literally rusted in half in 2 years. So I hear ya about salt. but that car was a daily.
When the current system was rusting out I read "might need to clock" the flanges and when I looked online true oem MM pipes were NLA so that led me to believe they were not interchangeable. This whole post was to spread the word they were. Maybe OEM MM h pipe on back was stainless type is why the CVPI didn't cross reference.
Aftermarket Dynomax mufflers were tacked to the frame rails with what looked like 6310 welding rod! OA or even stick weld, very slaggy. Both rods had snapped off at the frame rails. So a hack job replaced an earlier hack job! Lol