Very light engine knock till oil change

[lsxdude]

Thanks for checking out my post, kind of confused and wanted to ask some of the more experienced forum members.

The video link I posted below is not my car but it sounds almost identical to mine before I changed my oil. In the past some of my LS cars have had some light piston slap where it made a light knock that was harmless and sometimes factory. Im 3rd owner and the car has done it pretty much its whole life, I am friends with the previous owner.

At idle, in my car, you can hear a light knock (dull sounding) if that makes any sense. Not very high pitched and when you raised the RPM's it immediately went away. While driving you couldn't hear it at all, sitting at a light you could very faintly. I never worried about it as I did some serious digging when I purchased the car on this forum and I ran across numerous threads with other people sharing the same story and some even saying it did it pretty much its whole life up into 200k+ miles with no issues.

I have owned my car 1.5 years and it does sit quite a bit but I try to drive it at least once a week around town so I decided to change the oil this morning. I decided to run Mobil 1 5w-20 with the beloved Motorcraft FL820s filter. When I started the car the sound was completely gone, couldn't really believe it. Let it get hot and still nothing.

Im glad it went away but I am surprised....I know it didnt get Mobil 1 before it was just your standard Ford oil from my understanding. Just curious why it went away over an oil change, oil level was always where it should be.

Here's a video of another Marauder that sounded pretty much the same. Mine was not as loud but same sound.

https://youtu.be/KvH2_RZOdgg


Here is just a nice pic I took from today

52809

[Mr. Man]

I have a similar issue w/one of our MM's. I was leaning towards a manifold leak, but I see this guy looks like he has headers on his car. I'd imagine he has good gaskets so that leaves me thinking it could be a slight rod bearing slap. Mine goes away when the car heats up so mine may still be a manifold leak. Not sure why putting different oil would make your cars noise go away. Unless Mobil 1 has some sort of friction modifier in it. Be interesting to see if the noise stays away over time.

[lsxdude]

Ill be sure to update over time...I will say that I've actually seen some flex plates that have developed small cracks make a very similar noise during my years at the transmission shop but for it to go away on my end means that is definitely not the issue. I almost wonder if it isn't a piston slap, with LS engines (majority of my knowledge base) very light piston slap is normal. Have you heard of it in the 4.6L dohc?

Thanks for the response

[Mr. Man]

I haven't seen it as a common issue with the Marauder. Mustang/F-150 guys would be a better place to see how common it might be.

[TJCOX]

I haven't had any issue with the Marauder however, my E-150 (5.4L) makes some ticking noise at start up. Ford recommended 5W-30 instead of 5W-20 in the crankcase. I always pour oil into the filter before installing it, a practice I've done for many years. I use the Motorcraft synthetic blend oil and Motorcraft filters always. Full synthetics are overrated and priced from my personal experience. I also prefer conventional gear oil 90 weight, in the rear differential. I believe the ring and spider gears would have lived longer.

[justbob]

I haven't had any issue with the Marauder however, my E-150 (5.4L) makes some ticking noise at start up. Ford recommended 5W-30 instead of 5W-20 in the crankcase. I always pour oil into the filter before installing it, a practice I've done for many years. I use the Motorcraft synthetic blend oil and Motorcraft filters always. Full synthetics are overrated and priced from my personal experience. I also prefer conventional gear oil 90 weight, in the rear differential. I believe the ring and spider gears would have lived longer.

I’d be more worried if my 5.4 Triton stopped making tick sounds!


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[lsxdude]

That one made me chuckle lol

[lsxdude]

I haven't had any issue with the Marauder however, my E-150 (5.4L) makes some ticking noise at start up. Ford recommended 5W-30 instead of 5W-20 in the crankcase. I always pour oil into the filter before installing it, a practice I've done for many years. I use the Motorcraft synthetic blend oil and Motorcraft filters always. Full synthetics are overrated and priced from my personal experience. I also prefer conventional gear oil 90 weight, in the rear differential. I believe the ring and spider gears would have lived longer.

Just curious how you keep it from pouring out when spinning it on?

[gdmjoe]

lsxdude - Just curious how you keep it from pouring out when spinning it on?
Only fill the oil filter ½ full and shake it a bit to get the oil to seep into the filtering material. Also... Be sure to put a light film of oil on the gasket.

Another tip... Motorcraft, WIX, and NAPA GOLD | SLIVER (which are made by WIX) oil filters - reasons: silicone anti-drain back valve, HIGH QUALITY, co$t.
.

[lsxdude]

Ill give that a shot next time, I def lube the rubber seal but didnt think adding oil into it would be something I could do without making a mess but next go around ill give it a shot for sure

[Agent2006]

I haven't had any issue with the Marauder however, my E-150 (5.4L) makes some ticking noise at start up. Ford recommended 5W-30 instead of 5W-20 in the crankcase. I always pour oil into the filter before installing it, a practice I've done for many years. I use the Motorcraft synthetic blend oil and Motorcraft filters always. Full synthetics are overrated and priced from my personal experience. I also prefer conventional gear oil 90 weight, in the rear differential. I believe the ring and spider gears would have lived longer.

Wal-Mart full synthetic = 100x better than any brand name "blend" or dino oil