Crank, no start

[MaskedMarauder]

So the Marauder will crank just fine, but it won't turn over. Spark is fine. Would a bad fuel pump show up on a trouble code or will it just go kaput? Also, should I check the fuel pump relays first?

[RubberCtyRauder]

When you turn the key to on, do you hear fuel pump prime? If no, yes check fuse and relay. There is a write up I think in the Do It Yourself section, or shop talk. It's a sticky post

[MaskedMarauder]

For a layman, what is it supposed to sound like? All I hear when I turn the key on is the compressor for the air springs (I think that's what it is).

[offroadkarter]

For a layman, what is it supposed to sound like? All I hear when I turn the key on is the compressor for the air springs (I think that's what it is).

fuel pump sounds like a 1 second electric whine coming from the rear, when you turn the key to on, before starting, you should hear a slight "errr" out of the back.

I don't believe an outright dead fuel pump would trigger a code, a dead fpdm should though.

[MaskedMarauder]

Well, checked the relay and fuse for the fuel pump and neither one fixed the issue. I know it's getting spark. I'm thinking a dead fuel pump, because I'm not hearing that whine when I turn the key on. Just weird that it would go out. I know I don't drive it often, but it has always started up when I needed it to.

[fastblackmerc]

If your adventurous, get under and disconnect the fuel pump connector and see if there is power with the key on.

I bet your fuel pump is toast.

[SilverPhoenix]

Most likely the fuel pump; it will just quit like that w/o any kind of warning. Mine went out and I had just cranked and drove it 10 minutes prior.

[Mr. Man]

Has the car been sitting? If yes and there is room, dump fresh fuel in the tank and rock the crap out of the car. Might break a sticky fuel pump loose. If this works and the car starts it is probably a short matter of time before the pump finally kaputs. Had this issue w/ the SB, the pump worked for a little while, then died. :twocents:

[crouse]

Don't forget about the Fuel Pump Driver Module - FPDM. it's in the trunk on the drivers side near the fuel pump reset button. Try disconnecting the FPDM, cycle the key on and off a few times then plug the FPDM back in.

[1Marauder]

I had the mystery no start, and changed around and tapped on the relays, and shook the wiring harness on passenger side valve cover rear, (as someone on site suggested) and the damn thing started right up. I then bought all new relays for $22 delivered and replaced them all, and kept the old as spares. There was also a write up about the wiring harness plug (male female clip plug) were one female receiver had expanded and wasn’t making good enough contact. That was going to be my next step. Then later, I has my fuel pump died, as above, and I had it replaced too. Hope this helps.

[crouse]

Here's a good write-up from many years ago.

https://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?56597-Dead-Fuel-Pump-Troubleshooting-Guide

[sounnder]

Anyone have a source for a replacement OEM fuel pump?

[crouse]

Ironically enough, I went to start my Marauder yesterday because I hadn't started it in about 3 weeks, and it would crank but wouldn't fire up. I couldn't hear the fuel pump when the key was turned to the On position. I swapped in a different FPDM, but no joy. Checked the fuel pump fuse but that was ok.

So, I jumped pin 9 (white, HOT wire) to pin 10 (pink/black) on the FPDM connector. Then jumped pin 2 (black, ground) to pin 3 (brown/white) and turned the key to the On position. Still couldn't hear the fuel pump. Turned the key to the On position again and then I could hear the pump running wide open. I plugged in the FPDM and it started right up.

This has happened several times in the past, and always in the winter. I've never had to jump the pins on the FPDM connector. I usually just had to unplug the FPDM and plug it back in again to resolve the issue. Or swap in a different FPDM.

It's like the fuel pump locks up.

[MaskedMarauder]

So let me ask this question. How likely is it of a fuel pump failure as vs. the transponder chip in the key going bad? I know that if you put a key in it that hasn't been programmed, it will just crank, but not start. Is there any indicators besides the flashing light on the dash that the PATS system is stopping the car from starting?

[crouse]

I did some searching and it sounds like the PATs light will blink rapidly if there is some type of fault.

Did you follow the instructions on jumping the pins on the FPDM connector. I'm not good with trouble shooting wiring, but the instructions made sense indicating the pin number and the color of the wire.

[MaskedMarauder]

Doing it today

[MaskedMarauder]

Tried jumping the wires and no joy. Looks like I’ll be in the market for a fuel pump.

[fastblackmerc]

Ford still has them. I had mine replaced last year and my mechanic would only replace it with an OEM unit.

[Svashtar]

Don't forget about the Fuel Pump Driver Module - FPDM. it's in the trunk on the drivers side near the fuel pump reset button. Try disconnecting the FPDM, cycle the key on and off a few times then plug the FPDM back in.

Fuel Pump Driver Module? Fuel pump reset button? The only switch I know in the trunk is the air bag shut off, and I spent a half day sitting in the trunk once working on the subwoofer. After 20 years I still am missing stuff! I'll have to take another look for any of this...

By the way, how do you change a bad fuel pump, it's actually inside the tank, right?

[1Marauder]

One adult beverage that this is the issue… shake the harness first.

[azgolfrat]

Fuel Pump Driver Module? Fuel pump reset button? The only switch I know in the trunk is the air bag shut off, and I spent a half day sitting in the trunk once working on the subwoofer. After 20 years I still am missing stuff! I'll have to take another look for any of this...

By the way, how do you change a bad fuel pump, it's actually inside the tank, right?

yes, its in the tank.

not exhaustively:

the pipe that runs from the tank to the fill location has to be removed from the tank.

there a 2 ( I think) connectors on top of the tank you can get to from the passenger rear wheel well. One of them takes time.

Seems like I moved the exhaust a bit by dropping the hangers.

remove the connectors on the “port hole cover”

I undid the metal straps and used a floor jack to lower the tank. the less gas in there the better.

Not a super fun job.

I have a procedure from the shop manual that I think I can cut and paste and send to you. If you would want that, pm me with email


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[crouse]

Well, my fuel pump died today. Backed it out the the garage to change oil on our Explorer. Went to start it to pull it back in the garage and it tried to fire, then I cranked it again and no fire. Can't hear the fuel pump. Tried jumping pin 9 (white, HOT wire) to pin 10 (pink/black). Then jump pin 2 (black, ground) to pin 3 (brown/white) but this time, no fuel pump.

[crouse]

I must have been jumping the wrong pins as I tried again this morning. I jumped the correct pins this time and could hear the fuel pump run wide open when I turned the key to the On position. Plugged the FPDM back in and it fired right up. Just not sure what's going on. Is the fuel pump dying? Or is there some other issue happening?

[crouse]

It seems like every winter this becomes an issue for me. Sometimes I can jump the pins on the connector to the FPDM to get the fuel pump to run and other times it doesn't work. Lately, I've just been cycling the key from the Off to the On position numerous times, and eventually I'll hear the fuel pump run. It starts and runs just fine for a day or two. When I turn the key to the Off position, after 2 or 3 seconds, I hear a very faint clunk sound from the rear of the car. Not sure what the is.