NO START

[03Merc]

Drove it to work now won't start, doesn't even try to turn over. Has ignition power, but NO power to OBD2 port and fuel pump NOT coming on. Mini Fuses under hood all good. (Not blown). What could it be?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[azgolfrat]

Sounds like a battery problem is the 1st thing to rule out. Have you tried jumping with another vehicle that has a KGB? ( known good battery)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[03Merc]

Yeah, I wish it was that easy of a fix!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[azgolfrat]

I'm sorry. I've read some posts here that seem to indicate the FOB / key can cause start problems.

[mustangeddie]

Drove it to work now won't start, doesn't even try to turn over. Has ignition power, but NO power to OBD2 port and fuel pump NOT coming on. Mini Fuses under hood all good. (Not blown). What could it be?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk ProDid you check the pigtail coming out of the brushes on the starter to see if it rotted off? See them corroded green and broken frequently.

[88LTDCV351]

For me, it ended up being intermittent issues with the transponder in the key. Brought my second key in case and it started right up. Started using my second key and no problems.

[03Merc]

For me, it ended up being intermittent issues with the transponder in the key. Brought my second key in case and it started right up. Started using my second key and no problems.

What were the symptoms?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[03Merc]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240210/3117343b79f8108973e056c93a4f6d 95.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20240210/2ed0322045e08465dd7b5eb6e717e3 15.jpg


Yellow with black wire corroded. If You get a P1633 KAM code. This is Your issue which will eventually lead to a NO START.

Fixed now.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[SilverPhoenix]

Glad you found the problem...it's just astonishing how these issues unfold. You were able to drive it to work and at THAT exact moment is when it decided to go kaput when it is likely that wire had been like that for at least several months...

[03Merc]

Glad you found the problem...it's just astonishing how these issues unfold. You were able to drive it to work and at THAT exact moment is when it decided to go kaput when it is likely that wire had been like that for at least several months...

I know! Insane. I've had the p1633 code come and go. So I knew it had to be something to do with that. There's a great YouTube video of the same symptoms I had so I went ahead and went for that wire or those wires. There are 2 yellow with black that comes from the fuse box that are combined at that point to go to PCM. I clipped them both about 2 inches of wire and added fresh wire. Problem solved.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[SilverPhoenix]

I know! Insane. I've had the p1633 code come and go. So I knew it had to be something to do with that. There's a great YouTube video of the same symptoms I had so I went ahead and went for that wire or those wires. There are 2 yellow with black that comes from the fuse box that are combined at that point to go to PCM. I clipped them both about 2 inches of wire and added fresh wire. Problem solved.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Next time I've got my MM up in the air I'll have to take a look at that bundle of wiring to see if there's anything going on...

[azgolfrat]

I know! Insane. I've had the p1633 code come and go. So I knew it had to be something to do with that. There's a great YouTube video of the same symptoms I had so I went ahead and went for that wire or those wires. There are 2 yellow with black that comes from the fuse box that are combined at that point to go to PCM. I clipped them both about 2 inches of wire and added fresh wire. Problem solved.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

great work!
any thoughts on what would be a good preventative measure?
thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[03Merc]

great work!
any thoughts on what would be a good preventative measure?
thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well the open wheel well driver side is what I think causes the moisture to get up there into the harness. The wheel will throw water or in My case snow and dirt and soaks the wires in the loom and it doesn't dry out too well. Closing off the rest of the wheel well would be ideal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

[azgolfrat]

Well the open wheel well driver side is what I think causes the moisture to get up there into the harness. The wheel will throw water or in My case snow and dirt and soaks the wires in the loom and it doesn't dry out too well. Closing off the rest of the wheel well would be ideal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

I will see what I can do. If successful , I will post photos


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[88LTDCV351]

For me, it ended up being intermittent issues with the transponder in the key. Brought my second key in case and it started right up. Started using my second key and no problems.

OK, so the intermittent issue has started again regardless of which key I use. Was stuck at the dentist for 45 minutes and then the car finally started. So I'm thinking next it could be the transceiver.

[88LTDCV351]

I found this old post:


When you get the scanner that can read and report PATS codes, that'll tell you something, also watch the red light. A properly functioning PATS will flash every 2 secs with no key, as a visual deterrent. Turn the key to RUN, it will glow steady 3 secs then go out. PATS violations will rapidly flash in RUN for about 3 mins...then it will go out. WATCH THE RED LIGHT, it will now flash a two digit code...1 -1 or 1-6...count the flashes. You don't need a scanner for this. Look up that code online. Mine was flashing 1-1 over and over...not getting a key signal to the PCM. it is either the PCM , the key or the immobilizer, and you already checked the last two...maybe Eddie can lend you a spare PCM then jump the solenoid to crank over the car. Important point, my car would start with the wrong PCM as long as the immobilizer gave it the wrong signal, but NOT with the correct key and no signal....apparently no signal either right or wrong will not let the PCM initiate the start sequence. Good luck .

I can tell you that the Red Light is not rapidly flashing and is not solid for the first 30 seconds or whatever like when normal startup occurs. Does 1 - 1 mean one flash and then one flash and 1 - 6 is one flash followed by six flashes? Just seems to be flashing like always to me even when the key is turned all of the way.

[88LTDCV351]

OK, so the intermittent issue has started again regardless of which key I use. Was stuck at the dentist for 45 minutes and then the car finally started. So I'm thinking next it could be the transceiver.

Is the transceiver (that goes around the key cylinder) and immobilizer the same thing on our cars? Or two separate parts?

[1Marauder]

Brake safty start issue has been reported too. Also gently shake wires over passenger side top of motor near firewall, passenger wiper