Supercharged Marauder Throwing Code P0340 NEED HELP PLEASE!

[BackNBlack]

All of a sudden CHECK ENGINE light comes on last Saturday after a 35 minute drive (stopped for an errand, came back out...started up...CHECK ENGINE)

Car ran fine and continued to while I searched and found closest Auto Zone for an OBD2 Read. 2 Codes found...1 regarding Cam Timing and 1 regarding Fuel Pressure Sensor Gauge - NOTE: I was an IDIOT and didn't write down the actual codes! Asked AZ Kid to "Clear the Codes' and i drive 40 mins home...NO CODE...NO sign of any concern...drives fine.

Arrive home...shut down...walk inside for few minutes...come back out...Start up & - CHECK ENGINE ! So I park the car till today...Start the car...CHECK ENGINE...drive to another AZ...OBD2 Reader scan and PO340 is the Code...only ONE CODE...

PO340 = Camshaft Position Sensor A Circuit (Bank 1 or Single Sensor)

Who has thoughts? Ideas? Solutions? Warnings? Insight?

NEED HELP PLEASE!

[RocsMerc]

I don't have experence with that particular error code, but it sounds self explanatory. The camshaft position sensor is located at the top of the block facing the front of the car on the far right and left extremes, just below where the heads meet the block. I have no idea if it's as simple as just swapping it out, or if connecting a new sensor requires calibration, but they sell the part in Autozone for $28. If you're comfortable working on your car yourself, just do some research to find out if "Circuit A" is the passenger or driver side, and confirm that there's no special calibration required.

If there is calibration involved or if you're not comfortable working on it yourself, it might be worth just bringing it to a shop and letting them do it. If it really is just the sensor, it might not be as big and expensive of a job as your imagining.

[BackNBlack]

I don't have experence with that particular error code, but it sounds self explanatory. The camshaft position sensor is located at the top of the block facing the front of the car on the far right and left extremes, just below where the heads meet the block. I have no idea if it's as simple as just swapping it out, or if connecting a new sensor requires calibration, but they sell the part in Autozone for $28. If you're comfortable working on your car yourself, just do some research to find out if "Circuit A" is the passenger or driver side, and confirm that there's no special calibration required.

If there is calibration involved or if you're not comfortable working on it yourself, it might be worth just bringing it to a shop and letting them do it. If it really is just the sensor, it might not be as big and expensive of a job as your imagining.


Thanks SO MUCH for the response!

[Mr. Man]

Pull the connector to see if you have corrosion or a loose pin. :twocents:

[BackNBlack]

Pull the connector to see if you have corrosion or a loose pin. :twocents:

Thanks...I'll check (as soon as i find where it is?)

[Comin' in Hot]

If you change the sensor, get one from Ford

[BackNBlack]

If you change the sensor, get one from Ford


Thanks and I did.

UPDATE:

My dealer swapped in new Cam Timing Sensor (Bank 1) on the Driver's Side.
I had them check ALL the wiring for any rodent, splits, etc. and ALL wiring checked out perfect.
I also asked them to check the alternator which passed with flying colors @14.4-14.8 (NOTE: I read somewhere that alternator issues ((or beginning thereof)) could play a role in random codes. And with the trilogy Twin Screw having the alternator turned around backwards, I wanted to make sure it was still in proper function...it IS)

They cleared the Code...I drove it home from the dealer...NO "Check Engine" light...turned OFF the car...let it sit a couple minutes, and when i started it back up..."CHECK ENGINE"

ANY other thoughts from ANYONE would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

[BackNBlack]

If you change the sensor, get one from Ford


Thanks and I did.

UPDATE:

My dealer swapped in new Cam Timing Sensor (Bank 1) on the Driver's Side.
I had them check ALL the wiring for any rodent, splits, corrosion, bad/bent connections etc. and ALL wiring checked out perfect.
I also asked them to check the alternator which passed with flying colors @14.4-14.8 (NOTE: I read somewhere that alternator issues ((or beginning thereof)) could play a role in random codes. And with the trilogy Twin Screw having the alternator turned around backwards, I wanted to make sure it was still in proper function...it IS)

They cleared the Code...I drove it home from the dealer...NO "Check Engine" light...turned OFF the car...let it sit a couple minutes, and when i started it back up..."CHECK ENGINE"

ANY other thoughts from ANYONE would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

[FordNut]

Thanks and I did.

UPDATE:

My dealer swapped in new Cam Timing Sensor (Bank 1) on the Driver's Side.
I had them check ALL the wiring for any rodent, splits, corrosion, bad/bent connections etc. and ALL wiring checked out perfect.
I also asked them to check the alternator which passed with flying colors @14.4-14.8 (NOTE: I read somewhere that alternator issues ((or beginning thereof)) could play a role in random codes. And with the trilogy Twin Screw having the alternator turned around backwards, I wanted to make sure it was still in proper function...it IS)

They cleared the Code...I drove it home from the dealer...NO "Check Engine" light...turned OFF the car...let it sit a couple minutes, and when i started it back up..."CHECK ENGINE"

ANY other thoughts from ANYONE would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks in advance!

Is it the same code? If it is the same code, there are 3 electrical connectors that could be loose or corroded. The one at the sensor, the one where the engine harness connects to the chassis harness, and the one that connects to the PCM.

[BackNBlack]

Is it the same code? If it is the same code, there are 3 electrical connectors that could be loose or corroded. The one at the sensor, the one where the engine harness connects to the chassis harness, and the one that connects to the PCM.

Thanks for the response! They SAY they checked the circuit with a volt meter ALL the way back to the PCM.

So then my next question is...what IF...the Camshaft IS ACTUALLY "out of timing"...and the sensor is ACTUALLY working...how DIFFICULT is it to check/adjust on our motors? Can you do it in the car, by just removing the fly wheel? Or...do you have to take OFF the front cover of the motor (BIG JOB!)??

[FordNut]

Thanks for the response! They SAY they checked the circuit with a volt meter ALL the way back to the PCM.

So then my next question is...what IF...the Camshaft IS ACTUALLY "out of timing"...and the sensor is ACTUALLY working...how DIFFICULT is it to check/adjust on our motors? Can you do it in the car, by just removing the fly wheel? Or...do you have to take OFF the front cover of the motor (BIG JOB!)??

It can be done in the car, but it's a pretty big job. Cam covers, timing cover, front pulleys/belts, harmonic balancer would need to come off, maybe more.

[BackNBlack]

It can be done in the car, but it's a pretty big job. Cam covers, timing cover, front pulleys/belts, harmonic balancer would need to come off, maybe more.


OUCH! Sounds 'Spensive...

Dealer is wanting to help...their offer today is to schedule with their BEST Master Tech (1st available date October 9th) ...
$600.00 MIN UP FRONT...turn him loose...and call with a resolve or an estimate after $600 hourly rate met...

I don't have much choice. Wish I was closer to who helped me with the build. But moving to the middle of nowhere was just TOO GOOD!

[FordNut]

OUCH! Sounds 'Spensive...

Dealer is wanting to help...their offer today is to schedule with their BEST Master Tech (1st available date October 9th) ...
$600.00 MIN UP FRONT...turn him loose...and call with a resolve or an estimate after $600 hourly rate met...

I don't have much choice. Wish I was closer to who helped me with the build. But moving to the middle of nowhere was just TOO GOOD!

Trailer it to Marty.

[Marauderman]

Had same issue with my Crown Vic last month--looked up where its located to replace on You tube--found out its easy right in front of engine--a plug and play thing-- so ordered it and put it in my self--code gone and all runs well --cost bout $ 50 ==not sure but MM may be same location--

[BackNBlack]

Had same issue with my Crown Vic last month--looked up where its located to replace on You tube--found out its easy right in front of engine--a plug and play thing-- so ordered it and put it in my self--code gone and all runs well --cost bout $ 50 ==not sure but MM may be same location--

Unfortunately...my CHECK ENGINE light is back on following replacement...Tom...looks like I'm gonna fund the "exploratory search" beginning October 8th...with no other good choices. i.e. I MUST pass annual State inspection in December, and you CAN'T PASS with a CHECK ENGINE light...rendering it "undrivable legally"

[BackNBlack]

Bump......................

[BackNBlack]

Dropped off at the Dealer this morning for "exploration " to find the Problem...STAY TUNED!

[Black Terror]

Good luck with the Dealer, hope they can do what needs to be done!

[BackNBlack]

Thanks, Bill...they put in a new Battery (Motorcraft 850 Super Duty *which is ALL I've ever run...and told me the CHECK ENGINE was GONE!) I went to pick up the car...started it up...CHECK ENGINE light was ON as soon as I fired it up!

Since then they took time to chase electrical connections. They have now FOUND that the PCM is NOT sending ANY Current to the Camshaft Sensor Unit Bank #1 that I have had replaced. But then again...the question is...If there is NO current going TO that sensor...then HOW is it "intermittently" throwing a code??!!

They had me check with my Tuner to make sure the current WAS NOT shut off in the tune...which of course it wasn't. NOW...we are doing some driving and Data Logging to see if the dealer can turn ON the current to the sensor using their IDS. *WITHOUT messing with the Tune!

ALSO...I'm on a SEARCH for another PCM...in case THAT is the issue. Hopefully @mustangeddie can come through for me?!

[Black Terror]

Typical Dealer, don't know how to troubleshoot electrical issues. They just want to change parts until they luck upon what fixes the problem. Good luck finding a PCM that matches your vehicle.

[BackNBlack]

You are 100% CORRECT Bill...we SURE DID have it NICE 22 years ago @Team Ford, though...didn't we??!! THOSE were the DAYS!

[Black Terror]

Yes, and had Carfixer, and others to help troubleshoot problems.

[Black Terror]

Team Ford lost all their good people when they stopped them from working on our vehicles unless you went thru front counter. Today, it is a part changer Dealership. Sales and Service have gone to pot. Pugmire is the same way. They did things to my Vehicle that I didn't authorize so I use someone else for service, unless it is a Recall or Warranty item.

[Hummer_03]

Hey bud, I've been down this road. The alternator is the issue.

Sent from my SM-S936U using Tapatalk

[BackNBlack]

Hey bud, I've been down this road. The alternator is the issue.

Sent from my SM-S936U using Tapatalk

I've heard this, as well. And I ASKED about this with the Tech...he says the Alternator "is working fine..." I ALWAYS WONDERED due to The Trilogy needs the alternator turned AROUND backwards.

What choices do we have on Alternators...that are NOT made in China?

[BackNBlack]

U P D A T E:

After a couple on here suggested "the alternator"...I conveyed that to the Dealer...who was REALLY skeptical. As i was, too. WHY would the alternator have any effect to a "Camshaft Sensor Bank 1" which seems to be a simple diode that counts timing of the camshaft with a simple wire to & from the PCM. Well...it seems my young tech who was working on it...couldn't get it out of his head last night. So, he came in EARLY this morning (5am) to try something...and it WORKED!

This 1st graph shows the car running, WITH the alternator "Plugged-In' and you can see the LARGE SPIKES which indicate the Camshaft Timing (in 100th of milli-seconds of timing)
53410

As you can ALSO see...there is "NOISE" in-between EACH and EVERY cam revolution...and in SOME of that noise is pretty predominate "spikes' which he felt COULD trigger a reading on the PO340 - Camshaft Timing Sensor - Bank 1 (WHICH upon further inspection...the young Tech LEARNED that that sensor does NOT need Power from the PCM. IN FACT...it has small magnets inside which generate the power in which it operates. Therefore, the simple single wire to & from the PCM just convey the clean or "noisy" timing of the camshaft, were it to be off a tooth or two.


The NEXT Graph shows the car running with the Alternator UNPLUGGED...

53411

See how "CLEAN" the transmission from the sensor is WITHOUT the alternator engaged. The "FLATLINE" between strokes indicate a MUCH more smooth operation WITHOUT any possibility of in-between "spikes' that could unsettle the sensor and provide what had become very random "PO340" codes.

SO...thanks again to @Hummer03 and I forget whom else said "it's the alternator'...you were RIGHT! *I hope!

NEW Ford reman alternator is on the way tonight...young tech will be transferring my current Alternator's powder coated black covers to the NEW (RM) alternator...and we will SEE if I can get my BAD BLACK ***** BACK OUT ON THE ROAD!!!!

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[Hummer_03]

Congratulations. Im glad you found a Tech that knows how to use a scope. There's a lot more to the charging system besides Amps and Voltage. [emoji482]

Sent from my SM-S936U using Tapatalk

[Black Terror]

Wow, would never have suspected the Alternator. Scope picture shows the difference. Hope this cures your Codes.

[BackNBlack]

Thanks, my friend...ME TOO!

[BackNBlack]

Welp...I picked my Black ***** up late afternoon Friday. No codes, Runs GREAT...and HERE is the comparison of Old Alternator to NEW. You can readily notice the "chatter" between cam strokes are GREATLY reduced...as well as the actual Cam Timing seems MUCH more precise and accurate.

Young tech did a GREAT job. He received a couple crisp hunnies from me as and "extra thanks" as he not only R&R'd the alternator, but per my request he changed out the Old alternator's Black Powder coated casing with the NEW Ford Reman'd Alternator..*AND he even cleaned and re-oiled my S&B Intake Filter!

I'm HAPPILY MARAUDERING AGAIN!!!!!

5341553416

[Black Terror]

Great that everything is working correctly again. Using a 'scope has great benefit in tracking down noise, glad the tech knew how to use it. Most techs are remove/replace, not the troubleshooting kind. Glad some good ones are still around.

[BackNBlack]

Great that everything is working correctly again. Using a 'scope has great benefit in tracking down noise, glad the tech knew how to use it. Most techs are remove/replace, not the troubleshooting kind. Glad some good ones are still around.

Thanks Bill...it was GREAT to get her back out and "Blow the carbon Off the Plugs"!!!!

[MENINBLK]

THERE IS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THE ENGINE HARNESS RUBBING AGAINST THE BACK OF THE HEAD ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE.
CHECK YOUR HARNESS IN THE AREA WHERE THE IGNITION HARNESS ENTERS THE COIL COVER ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE ENGINE.
IF THE RUB IS NOT BAD, YOU CAN JUST WRAP THE HARNESS WITH BLACK TAPE.
IF IT IS VERY BAD, THEN YOU NEED TO GET A REPLACEMENT HARNESS OR FIX THE INDIVIDUAL WIRES AND ADD LOOM TO COVER THE AREA.

TELL THIS TO THE DEALER INSPECTING YOUR VEHICLE.

[BackNBlack]

THERE IS A KNOWN PROBLEM WITH THE ENGINE HARNESS RUBBING AGAINST THE BACK OF THE HEAD ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE.
CHECK YOUR HARNESS IN THE AREA WHERE THE IGNITION HARNESS ENTERS THE COIL COVER ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE OF THE ENGINE.
IF THE RUB IS NOT BAD, YOU CAN JUST WRAP THE HARNESS WITH BLACK TAPE.
IF IT IS VERY BAD, THEN YOU NEED TO GET A REPLACEMENT HARNESS OR FIX THE INDIVIDUAL WIRES AND ADD LOOM TO COVER THE AREA.

TELL THIS TO THE DEALER INSPECTING YOUR VEHICLE.

I was aware of this issue as I am a MARAUDER OG...when I received a new motor at 49,600 miles...the harness rubbing issue + a LOT of other known by then issues (head cooling mod, motor frame placement points, etc) were addressed...BTW...the Twin Screw went on at 58,500 miles...and NOW she has 96,400 miles...and THANKFULLY running GREAT!!! *again!