For those going to MVII

[MarauderMark]

Since i cannot go as i am sure many that many others cannot as well .i for one wish everyone a safe and joyus trip and a great time ..The only thing i ask is for those going Please ,PLEASE take alot of pics and gather information so us unlucky ones could feel like we were there beside ya'll.i for one would greatly appreciate it..REPRESENT this site and GOD BLESS YOU ALL... :up: :rock:

[Fourth Horseman]

Since i cannot go as i am sure many that many others cannot as well .i for one wish everyone a safe and joyus trip and a great time ..The only thing i ask is for those going Please ,PLEASE take alot of pics and gather information so us unlucky ones could feel like we were there beside ya'll.i for one would greatly appreciate it..REPRESENT this site and GOD BLESS YOU ALL... :up: :rock:

I've got a 256 MB card for my camera and I'm bringing my laptop in case I fill that 256 MB up. Will have plenty of pics to show. :)

[JerseyVics]

I still would like to get the picture DVD from Marauderville I

Logan, how much and where to place the order???

--Russ

[valleyman]

:help: I won't be able to make it to Marauderville either so I am soliciting help, or at least a little attention if it crosses your mind while you are there, for my next project: brakes. I would be MOST interested to hear from those of you who have upgraded your brakes to the KVR package from Dennis (whether just fronts or fronts and rear), or to a Baer product or a set from Todd of TCE, to see if you notice any appreciable difference if you have the chance to drive someone's car that has different aftermarket brakes than yours. When I say "difference" I mean stopping power, pedal feel, noise, whatever. Any feedback on this would be greatly appreciated. I don't race or drive on mountain roads too much, but I do, shall we say, tend to exceed the statutory speed limit at times when a good many other vehicles are present. I wish I could be there to ask questions and see for myself, but it just ain't gonna work out this year.

[Bluerauder]

Since i cannot go as i am sure many that many others cannot as well .i for one wish everyone a safe and joyus trip and a great time ..The only thing i ask is for those going Please ,PLEASE take alot of pics and gather information so us unlucky ones could feel like we were there beside ya'll.i for one would greatly appreciate it..REPRESENT this site and GOD BLESS YOU ALL... :up: :rock:
From another of the unfortunate "stay behinds", I hope all headed out to MV II have a safe trip to and from Indianapolis. Please bring home some great memories and pics of the events to share with those who wanted to be there; but couldn't make the trip. Thanks and godspeed to all.

[valleyman]

:help: I won't be able to make it to Marauderville either so I am soliciting help, or at least a little attention if it crosses your mind while you are there, for my next project: brakes. I would be MOST interested to hear from those of you who have upgraded your brakes to the KVR package from Dennis (whether just fronts or fronts and rear), or to a Baer product or a set from Todd of TCE, to see if you notice any appreciable difference if you have the chance to drive someone's car that has different aftermarket brakes than yours. When I say "difference" I mean stopping power, pedal feel, noise, whatever. Any feedback on this would be greatly appreciated. I don't race or drive on mountain roads too much, but I do, shall we say, tend to exceed the statutory speed limit at times when a good many other vehicles are present. I wish I could be there to ask questions and see for myself, but it just ain't gonna work out this year.

After seeing all those different MMs did anybody come away with more information/opinions about aftermarket brakes than they had before going to Marauderville?

[SergntMac]

Keep it simple. Buy a Baer kit for your front brakes, add the Kenny Brown brake lines, and retain the OEM stuff on the rear. Anything more is just bling, spend as you wish.

[MI2QWK4U]

Keep it simple. Buy a Baer kit for your front brakes, add the Kenny Brown brake lines, and retain the OEM stuff on the rear. Anything more is just bling, spend as you wish.


Mac is right, The cheapest most effective way is to get the front Baer brake upgrade, no drilling or venting, keep it simple to match the back brakes, which are sufficient when paired with the larger Baer fronts. I have driven that setup and it is perfect.

[valleyman]

Thanks x2. I sorta figured that I'd leave the rears alone and I have no interest in bling, just stopping power. Do either of you know if the floating caliber type is more prone to adjustment problems than the fixed caliber type, which I think is what the Baer is? Are there any advantages to the floating caliber type for a street car that is never raced?

[Donny Carlson]

Keep it simple. Buy a Baer kit for your front brakes, add the Kenny Brown brake lines, and retain the OEM stuff on the rear. Anything more is just bling, spend as you wish.
I took this photo last Friday at Kenny Brown's show room. This is a drilled and slotted rotor, not a "simple" Baer front brake kit. I do not consider the extra cost of drilling and slotting the rotors (and doing the same to the Mercury OEM replacement Baer Eradispeeds for the rears) and having the rotors zinc washed as "bling." There is a solid reason for the slots and drilled holes, they ain't for show.

From the Baer web site: Claw System rotors come crossdrilled and slotted. The benefits include: elimination of pad outgassing, more aggressive initial bite, elimination of pad glazing, and improved wet weather performance. Lastly all rotors are zinc washed. Besides the visual appeal, this protective plating is a rust resistant finish.

I have these crossdrilled and slotted rotors on the front and the rears, with
Baer calipers on front, OEM calipers on the rear.

It is possible to purchase the Baer front brake kit, drilled, slotted, zinc washed with matching rear rotors for LESS money than some Baer dealers charge for the plain, Baer front kit only, if you try.

http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/data/3024/1136DSC00844.JPG

[SergntMac]

I took this photo last Friday at Kenny Brown's show room. This is a drilled and slotted rotor, not a "simple" Baer front brake kit. I do not consider the extra cost of drilling and slotting the rotors (and doing the same to the Mercury OEM replacement Baer Eradispeeds for the rears) and having the rotors zinc washed as "bling." There is a solid reason for the slots and drilled holes, they ain't for show.

From the Baer web site: Claw System rotors come crossdrilled and slotted. The benefits include: elimination of pad outgassing, more aggressive initial bite, elimination of pad glazing, and improved wet weather performance. Lastly all rotors are zinc washed. Besides the visual appeal, this protective plating is a rust resistant finish.

I have these crossdrilled and slotted rotors on the front and the rears, with
Baer calipers on front, OEM calipers on the rear.

It is possible to purchase the Baer front brake kit, drilled, slotted, zinc washed with matching rear rotors for LESS money than some Baer dealers charge for the plain, Baer front kit only, if you try.
There's a period after the word simple, which ends that three word sentence and train of thought. Maybe I could have said "keep it simple and buy a Baer kit," but I didn't. In light of your quote from Baer's web site, what else is there to add to my suggestion? Simple advice, yes?

I have Baer brakes too, Donny, slotted, zinc washed and matching rear rotors. This is the way Kenny Brown designed the 1x, and after much research, IMHO, crossdrilling is bling. Other than improved rear pads, any upgrading of the OEM rear brakes is for show, or, emotional peace of mind, until you start adjusting bias.

[Bigdogjim]

This thread is sooooooo far off course that it will never get back home :lol:

[Donny Carlson]

There's a period after the word simple, which ends that three word sentence and train of thought. Maybe I could have said "keep it simple and buy a Baer kit," but I didn't. In light of your quote from Baer's web site, what else is there to add to my suggestion? Simple advice, yes?

I have Baer brakes too, Donny, slotted, zinc washed and matching rear rotors. This is the way Kenny Brown designed the 1x, and after much research, IMHO, crossdrilling is bling. Other than improved rear pads, any upgrading of the OEM rear brakes is for show, or, emotional peace of mind, until you start adjusting bias.
So we agree to a point, the difference of opinion is cross drilling. Fair enough.

Here's a quote from SEMA's enjoythedrive.com

"Plus, cross-drilled rotors can provide a safety and performance advantage in wet weather. Most people’s brakes won’t work right after they drive through a puddle because water gets between the brake pads and the rotors. The holes in cross-drilled rotors actually give that water someplace to go, so the brakes will work right after you splash through a serious puddle."

http://www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=6955

[SergntMac]

So we agree to a point, the difference of opinion is cross drilling. Fair enough.
No, we agree that you misread my post.

If you want to talk brakes, start a fresh thread, this one's been hijacked enough.