Knocking After Oil Change???

[Marauderjack]

Ok Guys & Gals....

I got in a bit of a hurry and didn't put oil in the filter when I changed the oil yesterday!! :( When I started the engine.....It revs up and knocks for a second or so.....SOUNDS BAD.....But every 4.7L I've had did this!!?? :bigcry:

WHAT THE HECK IS IT??? RODS?? PISTON SKIRTS??? WILL IT HURT ANYTHING??? :eek:

I think I'll pull the fuel pump fuse next time and crank on it until the OP comes up.....plug the FP fuse back in and go from there?? Will that work or not?? :cool4:

Marauderjack :pimp:

[CRUZTAKER]

Eww, I never fill the oil filter before putting it on. I have had cars that made a little chatter for a split second upon starting after an oil change....but never the MM.:confused:

[dansenander]

[QUOTE=CRUZTAKER]Eww, I never fill the oil filter before putting it on. I have had cars that made a little chatter for a split second upon starting after an oil change....but never the MM.

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The klunk-klunk is most likely the oil pump in a priming mode. Not unusual.

You have a knock sensor that will shut down the ignition if you are at a dangerously low oil level.

This theroy was sucsessfully tested when my uncle got wis oil changed at Rapid Oil, and they "forgot!" to add oil before sending him on his way! He made it 3 blocks before the motor shut down.

[merc406]

Ok Guys & Gals....

I got in a bit of a hurry and didn't put oil in the filter when I changed the oil yesterday!! :( When I started the engine.....It revs up and knocks for a second or so.....SOUNDS BAD.....But every 4.7L I've had did this!!?? :bigcry:

WHAT THE HECK IS IT??? RODS?? PISTON SKIRTS??? WILL IT HURT ANYTHING??? :eek:

I think I'll pull the fuel pump fuse next time and crank on it until the OP comes up.....plug the FP fuse back in and go from there?? Will that work or not?? :cool4:

Marauderjack :pimp:





It's Bad, real Bad, but no fear, is normal, next time throw alittle oil in that can, oh and Mobil1 makes a nice can, er filter. :D

[SergntMac]

Pack up your worry beads for something serious, this is an unavoidable condition with no harm atttached to it. I've come to consider it one of my MMs built in safety systems, because when the knock doesn't go away almost immediately, something is not getting done.

Drain any engine of it's oil, and some parts (however remote from the oil supply) will not have refreshed lubrication until the oil pump pumps oil again. On our 4.6 DOHC engines, the oil pump is crank driven and pumping the instant the crank rotates. I've heard some light knocking that lasted as long as 4 seconds on my MM, and I believe it's more likely a loss of insulation on an all aluminum engine than a loss of lubrication.

Keep in mind that you have drained and replaced the oil supply, but critical parts remain sufficiently coated anyway. Plus...Oil remains in the pump during an oil change, so, it's always primed too. Give it a few seconds to work the air bubbles out of the system, no sweat here, K?

BTW...That zero to 1500 RPM race we get at ignition? That's normal too. It allows the engine oil system to burp air from the lubrication system when it's safest to do so.

[Marauderman]

I've missed you here alot my friend--glad to see a repy of sorts-- have'd seen number of pics where you have been on meets..but.. no replies here--nice to see you again-- yean for the next time we can meet and have fun together.......Tom


Pack up your worry beads for something serious, this is an unavoidable condition with no harm atttached to it. I've come to consider it one of my MMs built in safety systems, because when the knock doesn't go away almost immediately, something is not getting done.

Drain any engine of it's oil, and some parts (however remote from the oil supply) will not have refreshed lubrication until the oil pump pumps oil again. On our 4.6 DOHC engines, the oil pump is crank driven and pumping the instant the crank rotates. I've heard some light knocking that lasted as long as 4 seconds on my MM, and I believe it's more likely a loss of insulation on an all aluminum engine than a loss of lubrication.

Keep in mind that you have drained and replaced the oil supply, but critical parts remain sufficiently coated anyway. Plus...Oil remains in the pump during an oil change, so, it's always primed too. Give it a few seconds to work the air bubbles out of the system, no sweat here, K?

BTW...That zero to 1500 RPM race we get at ignition? That's normal too. It allows the engine oil system to burp air from the lubrication system when it's safest to do so.

[MitchB]

Something in the engine has a little more clearance than you'd like. When I change the oil in my dad's Marauder, I crank it a few times, letting the engine just start to catch and then cut the ignition. I could do the same thing by cutting power to the pump. You'll hear a lot of opinions, but I would crank it a little with the fuse pulled. That's just me. I do the same sort of thing with all my cars.

Mitch

[Murader03]

Pack up your worry beads for something serious, this is an unavoidable condition with no harm atttached to it. I've come to consider it one of my MMs built in safety systems, because when the knock doesn't go away almost immediately, something is not getting done.


Darn! Where you been hidin'? Glad to see you back on the board. Looking forward to meeting you again at Indy!

[SilverStreak]

I just used the search feature to check about loading the oil filter before starting the engine after an oil change. I was inquiring due to the knocking noise at start up. Sure enough found several messages regarding this situation. Now on to another search about why getting an accurate reading from the dipstick is so difficult. :bigcry:

[RF Overlord]

I just used the search feature to check about loading the oil filter before starting the engine after an oil change. I was inquiring due to the knocking noise at start up.

Streak: The start-up knock is very common in any motor where the oil filter is not mounted vertically (base up). Proper filters for these motors contain an ADBV (Anti Drain-Back Valve) which allows oil to remain in the filter at shut-down, instead of draining back into the pan. When doing an oil change, it's a good idea to pre-fill these filters to help avoid the noise (although it really doesn't hurt anything...). Also, if you're using anything other than a Motorcraft FL-820S, be sure the filter actually HAS an ADBV...if you look through the little inlet holes, there should be a "flap" of orange rubbery-like material covering them from the inside. If you can see through the holes, your filter either doesn't have an ADBV (bad) or is using a design that does not meet Ford spec.