sergnt mac,taft,tripplet,and lidio

[nexstar7]

iam pulling all i have to work with. i have a idle problem, it studers at a red lights with the breaks on, if i go 5 to 15mph i see a slight idle fluctuation up and down. also today at 55mph it was doing 2500rpm and i know a get 2100 at 70mph. the od light was going of and on, almost feels like iam driving a car with a clutch and it starts to chug like i let the clutch up to fast. the car seams slugish. can some one run an oiasis report on my vin. 2MEHM75V63X636317 beers are on me :beer:

[hitchhiker]

iam pulling all i have to work with. i have a idle problem, it studers at a red lights with the breaks on, if i go 5 to 15mph i see a slight idle fluctuation up and down. also today at 55mph it was doing 2500rpm and i know a get 2100 at 70mph. the od light was going of and on, almost feels like iam driving a car with a clutch and it starts to chug like i let the clutch up to fast. the car seams slugish. can some one run an oiasis report on my vin. 2MEHM75V63X636317 beers are on me :beer:
Have you checked for chafe-ing of the wire bundle routed near the wiper support on the driver's side firewall?

The support has a sharp edge along the front and bottom.

There was a thread where people were experienceing similar problems and it was found that this chafed area was causing electrical shorting of wires controlling transmission functions among other things.

Hope this helps!

Best Regards,

David

[nexstar7]

yea, ive checked for all that, sometimes its hard to to tell. i know something is wrong ,but the dealers dont see anything if it doesnt show a code. thats BS.

[TAF]

First, let me remind you that I am not a wrench or an expert. As well, any "diagnosis" over the web is suspect, at best. But, I can share what was done when I faced similar issues at idle. Although, I've never experianced the RPM issues at speed that you are encountering.

My "rough idle" issues, I feel, were brought on by myself...when I installed a new K&N filter at around 22K miles and on the same day did about 6-8 Dyno-runs. It was not confirmed, but was suspected that doing those hard pulls with a fresh from K&N filter could have "gunked-up" the MAF. Solution...MAF was pulled...held up in the air and sprayed with brake cleaner (carefully)...allowed to air dry and replaced. The whole process took 2-3 minutes. Car seemed to idle better after that.

Next, and most recently...I had 2 occasions on the same day where I was turning into my driveway/parking spot...car virtually moving forward on idle RPM power only, A/C on, wheel turning and complete shutdown. I'd noticed that over time that my idle RPM seemed a little low at times when the brake was applied at a light. This was corrected on my last custom tune by Aric with the SCT program. He set for my idle to be at exactly 750 RPMs in park and at 900 RPMs at idle, in gear, brake on, A/C on, etc.

What I'd suggest...if you are stock with no chip, K&N filter, etc. (judging by your sig) is to take it to the dealer and have them be sure that you have the latest program in your EEC unit. Stay on top of your dealer in a pointed yet respectful manner...as I feel the "squeaky wheel ALWAYS gets the grease".

I hope this was somewhat helpful to you, as I can only pass on my similar experiances, rather than tell you how I'd fix it. I'd never claim to be an expert...I just have access to the best experts for our cars around.

[nexstar7]

thanks TAF

[SergntMac]

I'm not sure how a wrench can ignore a flashing OD light, it's an indicator for a troubled tranny. All the other symptoms you provide point to the fuel and ignition system, but could be side affects of a tranny problem. It's rare that both occur at the same time, so, I would peek at the wiring harness again, and peek at both sides of the engine bay. Both have been reported at risk.

[bugsys03]

TAF-your car idles higher in gear than in park? That cant be right. :confused:

[TripleTransAm]

To add to Sarge's suggestion, it's can be VERY hard to spot harness damage. In my case (driver's side), the harness was rubbing in a spot that was hard to see unless you were VERY intent on finding it (ie. you really had to twist the harness to spot the point of contact). And even then, it just look like a slight amount of chafing on the outside, until you bent the harness back on itself and it showed the exposed conductors!

[TooManyFords]

TAF-your car idles higher in gear than in park? That cant be right. :confused:

Todd isn't the only one to have this very odd situation. Ever since I had mine flashed at MV-I, in neutral mine idles at about 900-1000 and when in gear it idles at 1450-1500.

How can I tell? I put it on the lift with the rear wheels off the ground and put it in 1st.

Normally, with a 4400 lb. car with 3's for gears you would expect a slightly higher idle so that it could hold itself on a slight incline in drive. But, add to this the 4:30 gears I have and my car will actually accelerate through the gears reaching OD at about 35 mph without me touching the gas. It is slow and steady, but I have absolutely no engine brake effect in my current flash.

When I come down to Atlanta to have Aric tune it, I'm going to ask him to reset the "in gear" idle down to 900.

I was just about to start a new thread to ask others if they are experiencing anything similar. Guess the answer is yes!

John

[Tallboy]

send a pm to roylpita. hell run the vin for you...

[TAF]

TAF-your car idles higher in gear than in park? That cant be right. :confused:
Yep...and it makes all the sense in the world. I couldn't be happier with my latest tune (although, I still want the final "tweak" that Merc & Fordnut worked out with Aric last week on the TC lock-up)...hopefully, this week I'll get that downloaded.

[Krytin]

Ralph,
The flashing OD light is, by itself, an indicator of transmission malfunction. Combined with the other symptoms, harness problems should be ruled out first.
A side note - I did pull a few of my coils after the last meet and they didn't smell or look like yours (burnt, that is). Low/bad spark on the old OBD I engine management system will not bring up a trouble code but it is capable of running an engine-on diagnostic to detect which cylinder(s) are firing @ reduced power. I don't know what the OBD II system in our cars can do for detecting a low cylinder - ie bad plug or coil, but the dealer service dept. HAS to be able to run a diagnostic for this. You NEED to have this done! If you need to, make an appointment @ North Shore LM in Pt. Jeff. and drop the car off on a saturday morning. We can go fishing while the work on it!
Paul

[nexstar7]

hey, that sounds great. lets look at the weather. if not, maybe i'll call the guy on the card you gave me. or is it better if you ask since you had your car there. if it rains , we could always stop for a :beer:

[Krytin]

Just call & mention my name & the MM website - they are familiar w/it. Talk to Julianna if you can - she knows which techs to put on the MMs.