Alternator Pulley????

[Marauderjack]

OK.....MM.net "Brain Trust",

I was under the impression that this pulley was some sort of a centrifugal device that allowed itself to "Free Wheel" at higher RPM's to gain maximum power from our little engines on hard acceleration?? :confused:

I have been told by one of our vendors that any alternator control is done by the EEC and not mechanical but not used on Ford's OEM programming. Most aftermarket chips and tuners employ some sort of alternator disengagement for max power?? :confused:

All of this came about when I contacted this vendor about a quirk I have with my SCT tuning! Under WOT in second gear I get a big boost in power if I back off the throttle slightly?? :confused: Re-applying WOT at this point continues to add more power. It's almost like it "Bogs Down" at WOT??

I wonder if the alternator is not disengaging properly?? It does "unhook" at some point since the volt meter drops to 12 volts somewhere during this procedure but I have not been able to determine when.....yet!! :help:

Any of you have any ideas??

BTW.....I plan to go back to the "Stock" program today to see what it does under the same conditions?? :cool4:

Marauderjack :bandit:

[03SILVERSTREAK]

OK.....MM.net "Brain Trust",

I was under the impression that this pulley was some sort of a centrifugal device that allowed itself to "Free Wheel" at higher RPM's to gain maximum power from our little engines on hard acceleration?? :confused:

I have been told by one of our vendors that any alternator control is done by the EEC and not mechanical but not used on Ford's OEM programming. Most aftermarket chips and tuners employ some sort of alternator disengagement for max power?? :confused:

All of this came about when I contacted this vendor about a quirk I have with my SCT tuning! Under WOT in second gear I get a big boost in power if I back off the throttle slightly?? :confused: Re-applying WOT at this point continues to add more power. It's almost like it "Bogs Down" at WOT??

I wonder if the alternator is not disengaging properly?? It does "unhook" at some point since the volt meter drops to 12 volts somewhere during this procedure but I have not been able to determine when.....yet!! :help:

Any of you have any ideas??

BTW.....I plan to go back to the "Stock" program today to see what it does under the same conditions?? :cool4:

Marauderjack :bandit:I've had the same problem but this was before I purchased the SCT Tuner .

I went ahead with the Fuel Filter Modification for the same bogging down at WOT . I can tell you that the bog down problem is gone and I have the clutched alternator as well .

hope this helps...

[RF Overlord]

From the 2003 factory Workshop Manual, page 414-02-1:

"All Marauder 4.6L 4V applications are equipped with a one-way clutch (OWC) in the generator pulley. The OWC pulley temporarily disengages the generator rotor from the front end accessory drive (FEAD) system during high acceleration/deceleration rates on the engine, which may increase belt life and decrease belt chirp. A new OWC pulley and generator/voltage regulator must be installed as an assembly."

Also from the manual, page 414-00-1"

"This vehicle is equipped with a PCM-controlled charging system whereby the PCM determines the optimal voltage setpoint for the charging system and communicates this information to the voltage regulator...The GENCOM line communicates the desired setpoint from the PCM to the voltage regulator and the GENMON line communicates the generator load and error conditions to the PCM."

The first part sounds pretty definite; yes, there IS a one-way clutch on the alternator. The second part is slightly less definite in that it says the PCM and the alternator talk to each other, but isn't specific as to whether the PCM can actually shut the alternator OFF...

[Logan]

That OWC is worthless and was replaced with a standard alternator pulley after 300B production started.

[SergntMac]

300A here, with the one way clutch, and I had my EEC reprogrammed to keep the altenator on full time.

My concern was that under WOT, my fuel system was not getting the electrical power it needed to maintain PSI. With no altenator output under WOT, the car is powered exclusively by the battery, and a voltage drop could slow the fuel pump. The EEC will detect this and react by pulling timing, but not spark and...well, it could get messy, and expensive.

The "bog" you describe may be exactly this, the EEC is pulling timing because the fuel pump is getting low voltage and reporting a loss of fuel PSI. If it stops when you pull out of WOT, you're duplicating what the EEC accomplishes.

BTW, I have a Walbro 255 fuel pump and the DR improved fuel filter, and I'm not having any problems with flickering lights at the stoplight, or, suffering any noticable loss of HP/TQ just by having my altenator turned on full time.

[Dennis Reinhart]

OK.....MM.net "Brain Trust",

I was under the impression that this pulley was some sort of a centrifugal device that allowed itself to "Free Wheel" at higher RPM's to gain maximum power from our little engines on hard acceleration?? :confused:

I have been told by one of our vendors that any alternator control is done by the EEC and not mechanical but not used on Ford's OEM programming. Most aftermarket chips and tuners employ some sort of alternator disengagement for max power?? :confused:

All of this came about when I contacted this vendor about a quirk I have with my SCT tuning! Under WOT in second gear I get a big boost in power if I back off the throttle slightly?? :confused: Re-applying WOT at this point continues to add more power. It's almost like it "Bogs Down" at WOT??

I wonder if the alternator is not disengaging properly?? It does "unhook" at some point since the volt meter drops to 12 volts somewhere during this procedure but I have not been able to determine when.....yet!! :help:

Any of you have any ideas??

BTW.....I plan to go back to the "Stock" program today to see what it does under the same conditions?? :cool4:

Marauderjack :bandit:

Jack the SCT program you have shuts the alernator off at WOT till the battery voltage falls to 11.5 volts and comes back on that's what you are feeling and some Marauders have a different pulley set up

[Marauderjack]

Thanks Guys.....

Dennis.......Would it be better to just leave the alternator on all the time then?? The "surging" "bogging" is not very impressive to me (the driver) or my passengers whom I may be trying to impress!! :help:

I put the stock program in and though the trans shifting SUX.....It accelerates smoothly at WOT without the surging!! I reinstalled Dennis' program and it seems much better....Maybe it just missed something the first time around?? :confused:

I'll drive it some more and report my findings!! :up:

Marauderjack :D

[Dennis Reinhart]

Jack you are the only person I know of that has this symptom, every one has the alternator off at WOT except for the SC cars and Mac explained that, I would buy the tuner cable and let David or me send you a updated file.

http://www.marauder57.com/Reinhart%20SC%20Banner%201.gif

[03SILVERSTREAK]

That OWC is worthless and was replaced with a standard alternator pulley after 300B production started.Logan-as I stated previous I have the OWC on my 300B , from your own experence or others on this board , should I consider having the dealer replace the alternator with the same one except without the OWC on the shaft ???:confused:

[Logan]

Yes, some B's will have it, same as some B's have some 300A features on them... They kept using them until stock was gone...

No point in swapping it out, it works fine enough. A dealer won't swap a perfectly good alternator out anyway...

[Haggis]

Yes, some B's will have it, same as some B's have some 300A features on them... They kept using them until stock was gone...

Is there anyway to visibly tell if you have a OWC alternator or not?

[TAF]

Is there anyway to visibly tell if you have a OWC alternator or not?
Remove the "cap" on the front of the alternator pulley...if it just has a bolt...it does not have the clutch. If you see "gear-like teeth" and you'd need a special puller to remove the pulley, then you have a clutched one.

[Haggis]

Remove the "cap" on the front of the alternator pulley...if it just has a bolt...it does not have the clutch. If you see "gear-like teeth" and you'd need a special puller to remove the pulley, then you have a clutched one.


Thanks Tod. :up:

[DEFYANT]

Remove the "cap" on the front of the alternator pulley...if it just has a bolt...it does not have the clutch. If you see "gear-like teeth" and you'd need a special puller to remove the pulley, then you have a clutched one.
Well, here I go again,


WARNING WARNING WARNING

OLD THREAD REVIVAL



Has anyone tested this theory with a fuel presure guage? I have this problem and the gear-like teeth pulley on the alt. The only differnce is my car is an 04 built on 9/03.

[DEFYANT]

Well, here I go again,


WARNING WARNING WARNING

OLD THREAD REVIVAL





Has anyone tested this theory with a fuel presure guage? I have this problem and the gear-like teeth pulley on the alt. The only differnce is my car is an 04 built on 9/03.
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