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View Full Version : Marauder warranty and parts information



Dennis Reinhart
08-23-2004, 06:04 PM
Over the past few days we have seen several posts about warranty issues, I would like to take the time and let the club know what I have seen on my own, first of all Ford cannot void your warranty with out proof that the chip caused the failure in question, by now most of us know the weakest point on the Marauder engine is the rods and the pistons, the rods are cracked cap with stretch to yield bolts, the pistons are hypertectic with very thin ring lands, these rods are 2 V rods just like in a 2 V GT the engine also has the marginal oil pump gears, since the oil pump gears are driven directly off the crank shaft, if this engine is driven with detonation, that will be directly transferred to the crank and then to the oil pump gears, the cure for that is determine why you are getting this detonation and fixing it right away it is possible the gears are defective will Ford ever admit this no. If the engine is to be rebuilt I would use Billet oil pump gears and trigger wheel, because the hypertectic pistons have such thin ring lands if the car is driven with detonation the it will just break the ring lands and there goes the piston, so if you hear spark knock get out of the throttle, if you want a good build go with good rods I like Manley then Diamond racing pistons I would have those pistons and the engine bearings coated, the use billet oil pump gears and trigger wheel and put the bottom end together with ARP fasteners and the Cobra steel crank, I would also use ARP head studs.

I had a customer email me and call about Ford trying to void the warranty over a chip for a bad valve on the drivers head, he has a A model I know and most of us are aware there were head issues on the earlier Marauders Mach 1 and Cobra engines so if this man stands his ground he will win, the drivers head casting has been replaced there is a TSB over this I have put him in contact with the appropriate people at Ford.

Now I will tell you about a Marauder we just had here that drove us nuts, the car ran like it had a restricted exhaust or fuel system after verifying fuel pressure and dropping the exhaust the car still ran very bad no power at all, the owner had bough the car from a dealer and it did have one of our chips in it and the dealer removed it so this new owner tried another brand and the car ran worse, the dealer changed the fuel pump and ECM and still no better so it came to me, and we found out to day the cause, the owner had some one else install UDP over a year ago, and in that kit it comes with a bolt that is marked for install only, the reason why is its longer than the OEM bolt to ease the install of the smaller dampener, well, what you are supposed to do is use the long bolt to pull the dampener on, then remove it and install the OEM bolt. Well, they never did that they left the long one in there it bottomed out in the crank and over a year the dampener backed off allowing the key way on the trigger wheel to waller out, http://web.iwebcenters.com/reinhartautomotive/images/session/00-00-1093441399-DSC00467.JPG

This caused the engine timing to be way off, I am glad this was caught it could have cause an engine loss. The few cars that I have known that have had oil pump gear failures all had UDP Installed improperly so I would be aware and possibly verify that the OEM bolt was installed as per the instructions.

If any one has any questions call me thats what I am here for, I will help any way I can.

Joe Walsh
08-23-2004, 06:19 PM
Dennis, We spoke today on the phone...I'm the guy with the grenaded oil pump gears. I installed my own UDP and I know that I used the OEM bolt once the UDP was pulled on tight. I'm convinced that my oil pump self destructed because of detonation/lean AF ratio. BUT, I spoke to vender 'A' and he said that the UDP from vender 'B' (that I used) did NOT have enough mass and that is why my oil pump gears grenaded...Any thoughts on UDP NOT having enough mass as compared to the OEM dampner?

Dennis Reinhart
08-23-2004, 06:36 PM
Well Vendor A B or C has nothing to do with this, UDP have been used for years when we first started out we tried piggy back UDP they are designed to have the OEM dampener bolted on to the Crank shaft Underdrive pulley, so as Murphy says if any one can do it wrong, some one will and they never read the instructions just looked at the nice aluminum crank pulley and installed it leaving off the OEM dampener which will cause engine failure. So I switched to the Steeda set up, and they sell thousands of these a year, but you have to read the instructions, and when installed properly you will have NO PROBLEMS, as long as you take into account what other modifications you have done to your car. In your case you installed Kooks and a different air cleaner and you were running the car with NO chip or ever having your AF checked to see if the mods you have done had changed the AF, which I am sure they did, this probably leaned out your AF and caused the car to run lean causing the detonation, Steeda UDP had nothing to do with this, regardless of what vendor B had to Say.

GreekGod
08-26-2004, 02:42 PM
Mr R: My 8.8 Ford [ARP] stud kit came w/o instructions. Would it be proper to install studs in clean holes, finger tight, w/ red or blue Loctite? Thank you for your service.

merc
08-26-2004, 07:12 PM
Dennis I know of 3 motors with major failures and one of the common denominators is this engine code 3G-120-AA. You have seen many more Marauders then I have, what are your thoughts on this theory. I understand that Ford uses several venders to produce parts for their assembly. Could it not be the way the UDP is installed but rather a part or parts defects? I also wonder what was the engine code that 2003 MIB had ?

TripleTransAm
08-29-2004, 08:26 PM
Where can one find this engine code?

merc
08-30-2004, 06:19 AM
Where can one find this engine code?

It's left and right of the engine block just below the value covers. Large white sticker, I think.

Joe Walsh
08-30-2004, 07:53 AM
HMMMM, My engine code is 3G-120-AA...or is that the engine code for ALL MMs?

merc
08-30-2004, 09:37 AM
No it’s not the only engine assembly number used in the Marauder production, but it was the first series installed in our cars. I personally feel, based on limited facts, that this engine code yields a high amount of claims for repair.

I started a tread about engine codes nearly a year ago and what do they mean. http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=4248&highlight=3G-120-AA

Mike Poore
09-01-2004, 07:28 AM
WOW! Joe & Merc & Dennis, great thread and information. Thanks guys! BTW, all this talk about detonation brings home the folly of trying to save a few dollars by running lower than recommended octane fuel. I'm sorry if it sounds harsh, but if we can afford to buy a car that costs 35 large, then we ought to be able to fill it with at least the recommended fluids.

metroplex
09-05-2004, 05:08 PM
Race your car and you've technically voided your warranty (in regards to the powertrain, drivetrain, etc...) You can argue all you want about parts, proper installation, Magnuson-Moss act, etc... but if someone somehow documents you racing your vehicle at a drag strip... kiss your warranty goodbye. I'm not saying there's a band of folks out there that do this, but it has happened.

2003 MIB
09-17-2004, 06:53 AM
I also wonder what was the engine code that 2003 MIB had ?Sorry Merc,
I just saw this. I was a 3G-120-AA.

merc
09-17-2004, 10:51 AM
I don't know where the facts are taking us, but you are number 5 in the list of owners with blown engines and this production code. :thinker:

Racerx88
09-17-2004, 11:22 AM
Sorry Merc,
I just saw this. I was a 3G-120-AA.
Hey Dan, what's the code on your NEW engine?

2003 MIB
09-17-2004, 11:44 AM
Hey Dan, what's the code on your NEW engine?
I don't know. No stickers on the new one's valve covers.

drgnrdr33
09-17-2004, 11:19 PM
For what it's worth, the engine code I have is 3G-120-AB. Door sticker says the car was built in Feb, 2003. I've heard no ticks or had other engine problems in the 6k miles I put on since the 22k that it had when I bought it.

PAPAJOHN
09-18-2004, 05:19 AM
For what it's worth, the engine code I have is 3G-120-AB. Door sticker says the car was built in Feb, 2003. I've heard no ticks or had other engine problems in the 6k miles I put on since the 22k that it had when I bought it.
Also, for what it's worth -- Mine is an 04, built October 03, eng. code is 4S 120 AA