Breaking in (not into!) a new MM

[martyo]

Ok, ok, so I am pacing impatiently until I pick up my new MM, because I have already laid (part of) my money down.

Here's my question: I know when I leave the delaership, my first reaction will to stomp on the gas.... However...... does anyone have any thoughts on what the suggested break-in period and procedure for a new MM is?

Thanks for all your prior help too! You guys all helped me make the (right) decision.

:D

[03 Merc]

I broke in my MM by varying the engine speeds for the first 1500 miles. (No Cruise Control) I did do limited full throttle runs but kept it reasonable...my wife wouldn't agree but I thought so anyway.. I'm now at 7K with no problems.. BTW I did the same break in on my 01 Cobra and it was fine as well...

[RF Overlord]

stanley:

Someone said, either here or on CVN, to "drive it like you stole it" and that's not far off... I've been told with modern cars to break it in like it's going to be driven the rest of its life...in other words, not to "baby" it unless that's the way you normally drive. 03 Merc's advice sounds about right...drive it normally, but don't wail on it too often (I know it can be tough NOT to!), and don't go on a long highway trip right off the lot. My '94 SuperCoupe has 152,000 miles and doesn't burn any oil...no problems out of the ordinary/expected. :burnout:

Oh yeah, and change the oil and filter after the first 1000-1500 miles, then go to your usual interval after that.

[martyo]

Thanks for the input. What is the Valentine V-1 with remote mentioned in your signature block?

[martyo]

Actually the day I pick it up I was planninng on taking a short cruise up the highway (about 350 miles). Bad idea? I heard that I should vary my speeds and not drive at any one speed.

Thanks for your input.

[SergntMac]

Ditto 03 Merc and RF Overbord...good advice.

[Mark McQuaide]

It says in the manual to vary the speed to break it in. I'd say a 350 mile trip is not a good idea until after 1000 miles or so.

[martyo]

Ok, Ok, so a trip to the Connecticut casinos is off the list. I guess I'll cruise the neighborhood and annoy the neighbors!!

[SergntMac]

I thought this would be a good place to stick this in, because I don't think it would make a decent thread by itself. It's about engine oil and advice from Service Manager with a strong background in racing Mercury, he has 3 Marauders at home, including one with the 427 Thunderbolt motor. Hmmmm....when he talks, I listen.

Went back to my Dealer last Tuesday for a gear inspection 1K after my 4:10 upgrade. That went well, and the SM suggests to any of us who have upgraded to 4:10s, to inspect it at 1K, and every 10K after that, thus changing the gear lube too. Under heavy use, the lube will break down over time. Sounds like good advice, considering how the gear and chip lead us to drive the MM harder. He also said he would move me into the 0W motor oil when he gets it, and I asked why, because I didn't know of a remarkable difference from the 5W30 suggested by LM.

He said I should think of the motor oil as part of the cooling system, that it plays a role in the Cobra motor in controlling temps. Hmmm...I see. I asked him about some popular synthetics and he kinda frowned, just a bit. He said "The synethics are okay, but the way you drive your car, you're pretty much up there in the cams a lot. Best oil for your car, is clean oil, and I want you to change it every 2k. If you follow that plan, the synethics are an unnecessary expense." Hmmm...

No slam against synethics here, but his rationale is food for thought.

StanleyK, I'd say go for the boats, you can play with the RPM at cruise speeds by OD on/off, yes?

[LincMercLover]

Yes, but most synthetics have lower operating temps than older mineral based oils. Even the delivery oil is a synthetic BLEND. Ehh...?

[03 Merc]

StanleyK,

The Valentine V-1 is one of the best radar detectors... IMHO the best for the money.. go to http://www.valentine1.com/ for more info... for a detector shoot out go to http://www.speedzones.com/test2002new/test2002.htm and you read the 2002 results...

BTW take your trip in the MM... just vary your engine speeds and leave the cruise off for awhile.. You can vary engine speeds by turning off the OD as well MPH...

[MAD-3R]

Take the trip. You need time to work on the proper "Butt Groove"

[jefferson-mo]

Also the owner's manual lists XO-5W30-QFS synthetic oil as what's in the engine..........:bandit:

[RF Overlord]

Jefferson:

Do you know the build date on your MM? Mine says it came with 5W-20 Synthetic Blend... (I picked it up in Sept.)

[WolfeBros]

even the oil fill cap is imprinted with 5W20. (at least mine is with a 6/02 build date) Would like to know your build date as well. Thanks

[WolfeBros]

Sarge,
Always enjoy your posts. They are usually thought provoking and well written. Anyway........what weight oil is your dealer putting in your car now? I have been planning on going to a 5W30 synthetic when I reach 1500 miles. I have no scientific reason other than I think the 5W20 is too thin and suspect it is being touted by FMC because of CAFE.

I also think any of our major motor oil brands today will give great service at a 2K change interval. He is right about the oil being an engine cooler as well. But it always has been actually. Maybe more so now because of how hot they like to run them for emission reasons.

I have always changed at 3k intervals but this will be my first time with a full synthetic. I used a Valvoline Blend in my 94 Mustang Gt.

[tomd]

Originally posted by stanleyk
Actually the day I pick it up I was planninng on taking a short cruise up the highway (about 350 miles). Bad idea? I heard that I should vary my speeds and not drive at any one speed.

Thanks for your input.

I took my 1992 Grand Marquis down to Florida when it was newer, non-stop. By 65,000 miles I was blowing blue smoke out my tail pipe. Was it from driving 1300 miles when the car was new, got me? I just know am not ever doing to do that again! :bigcry:

[jefferson-mo]

Mine was built on 9/17/02 :beer:

musta put it one the express train 'cause it was at the dealer befo the end of Sept. :rock:

[RF Overlord]

^^^what the Wolf Brothers said^^^

Consumer Reports did a study on oil change intervals a few years ago that took 75 NYC taxis and put in freshly rebuilt engines. They changed some of the cars at 3,000 miles, the majority at 6,000 and a few at 12,000 (driving each for 60,000 miles). Upon teardown of each of the engines, they found no statistically meaningful differences in wear between the 3,000 mile and the 6,000 mile engines. The 12,000 mile engines were only slightly more worn, not anywhere near what they expected. Their conclusion was to change the oil (and filter, of course) at the manufacturer's recommended intervals.

MY conclusion is that we're ALL right, whatever oil we use and whatever interval we use, as long as it's good oil and not longer than Ford's recommendation.

Rock on with your bad selves.

[jefferson-mo]

The other thing about Taxis is fewer cold starts that we would normally experience so maybe that has something to do with it.....
I also hear rental agencies do thier 1st oil change at 12,000

:beer:

[SergntMac]

Well, gets interesting after all, thanks for your advice. I was wrong to state 5W30, it's 5W20, sorry about that. And, while my mouth was saying "syntheics," my brain was thinking about that real expensive stuff, and I completely overlooked the recommended (and used by my dealer) synthetic blends.

This was advice I got because of how I drive my MM, SM knows I'm a heavy pedal, more like on/off than speed up, slow down, know what I mean? Just thought I'd share it, don't overlook your rear end, if you have a 4:10.

Thanks guys.

[RF Overlord]

Originally posted by SergntMac
don't overlook your rear end, if you have a 4:10.

Thanks guys.

Sarge: Just so long as we don't have to overlook YOUR rear end, next time you're wearing the kilt... :eek:

D'OH!

[SergntMac]

ROTFLMAO, good point!

[prchrman]

Srgnt Mac,
With the 4.10 swap how did it effect the bottom end, who did the swap and what about warranty and gas mileage?

[SergntMac]

Willie, I appreciate your question, but really, it wold be better for you to run a brief search on this topic, and get everyone's opinion. If that still doesn't help you, feel free to ask again. Overall, it's a good thing to do.

[martyo]

Everyone seems to have their opinion on the break in. It seems that I can take the technique I have used on boats (the waterborne kind) and apply it to the MM.

I appreciate everyone's input.

Every marine mechanic that I have ever dealt with always repeeats the same thing "frequent oil changes - short intervals whether based on tiume (the marine equivalent to miles) or time. No matter what oil you run, it is always cheaper than rebuilding a motor.

Sarge: I spoke to Dennis today. He will be hooking me up with the package. Did you do the pulleys too? Given the cost of the mods, installing the mods seems like a "no way you can lose" sort of thing.

I will be doing the gears to. I have read the other posts. Did the shorter gears affect the streetability of the car. I believe that I will be using the car at least part time as a daily driver.

[prchrman]

SergntMac,
Humor me and tell what you know.
Had a 69 Marauder with a 429, this car is lots nicer. It has ac.

[SergntMac]

"Sarge: Did you do the pulleys too?"

Not yet, Stan, but they are on my list for the "5HP and under" mods. My overall goal with my MM is to see the advertised flywheel HP and TQ numbers move through the car and get to the rear wheels, without breaking into the motor or trans. Dennis's package is very productive, and what I have left to choose from, are mods to the air box, exhaust, pulleys and so on. They are all "light weight" in comparasion to Reinhart's work, so, I'm picking carefully, what will come next.

As for "driveability," I can't say much due to weather around here, it's dry but frozen streets, and lots of cold air pouring in, so, I'm getting a lot of wheel spin and serious fish tail in 2nd gear shifts, under hard WOT. Lord, i love it, it has been years since I've worried about losing the lane from tail spin! However, when I keep my foot out if it, it is very driveable, safer and more responsive than my SUV. My MPG seems to be holding about 20 MPG, but remember, it's zero degree air, and frozen pavement right now, I expect my MPG to go down as it warms up. Overall, the car is highly manageable as long as the streets are clear and dry. The Reinhart package is a must do thing, IMHO.

Willie...Any of this help you? All wrenching done by my LM dealer, and his ASE tech, who has a Winston Cup "hobby-job" in the season. Warranty? No guaranteed approval from LM across the board, but everything I've done, is in my OASIS record, with the dealers approval, andd they have copies of my dyno reports too, so, I have "stacked the deck" as best I can, but there is NO guarantee of any warranty claim coverage if I turn a main.

You should look for a mod-friendly dealer/service manager and stroke the relationship from there, maybe find a Ford SVT dealership? I don't expect my mods to redline me from all warranty protection, the mods have little to do with blown sub-woofers, or, air bag sensors. Simple answer is, if you're unsure, don't do them until you are.

Sorry for the long story...

[prchrman]

SMac
thanks for the info
i got the 6 yr warranty and will probably never change my mm
if i do it will probably be a sup charge
i have been looking at lower profile tires to help the 3.55 rear
might make the same all the way around and lower

[Vince Gortner]

I think I have a MM deal lined up - just need to sign off tomorrow and away I go. Took the car home for an extended demo this afternoon and brought her back so the dealer can make her all pretty for tomorrow.

Here's my dilemma. They had ten of them lined up in a row and told me to pick one. It was about -15 out with the wind chill and the cars were all kinda dirty so I gave them a quick walk around and just picked one in the middle. They washed it up real quick so I could take it home and scope it out in detail in my garage.

Anything special I should look for? Paint looked good all around, no interior problems, no rattles etc. Any MM specific troubles I should look at? The car had 53 miles on it. Does the car get a 53 mile test spin off the assembly line? I doubt it. Makes me wonder how many burnouts you can do in 53 miles.

Hope I picked the right one. It's like getting married - by the time you find out you've got a bad one it's way too late.

Did I mention that these cars are too cool?

[martyo]

One I looked at had 93 miles. I said "no" get me a fresh one. I think everyone at the dealer took it for a spin. They told me they have 78 employess, so that would be at least 78 burnouts on the one I saw. Mine "new" new ar is due on Monday 1/27/03 with a make ready date of 2/1/03.

I would have picked the one in the middle too. Check the sub and make sure it is working properly. Hit "3" and "6" on the radio at the same time to put it in test mode. look for the links on this site that go through the test in greater detail.

[WolfeBros]

The sub is a pretty easy fix. There is much do***ented on it here.
Look or feel for the leather coming away from the right hand steering wheel spoke on the backside. Another complaint from early cars.
Look carefully for paint and trim defects. Listen for annoying rattles.
The car I test drove had a rattle in the dash and the rear package shelf rattled. Had a paint run by the drivers door handle. I told them to prep another one. The factory wiper blades suck and the right hand one parks too high. A set of Bosch 22" blades solves the problem. There have been afew cars with complaints of the bumper covers being ill fitted. And rear tailpipes not symetrical. Thats all that comes to mind.
Most are easily fixed. Enjoy the car. It is a ball to drive. Get a reinhart chip as soon as you can. It fixes performance issues and transmission shift points. Come back to this board for other great ideas. Read every post in the garage area especially. Hope this helps. Congrats.:cool:

[Murader03]

Originally posted by stanleyk
Ok, Ok, so a trip to the Connecticut casinos is off the list. I guess I'll cruise the neighborhood and annoy the neighbors!!

Stanley....My $.02's here. Drive the car like you stole it.....PERIOD! The car was built to run, just like the newer Cobra's are. My '99 Cobra went 100,000 miles when I traded on the MM. Never had any problems with the engine at all. I changed the oil at 1500 miles the first time and have been running 5000 between changes of synthetic oil, which comes standard in the MM. BTW, when I had the gears replaced, I had synthetic gear lube installed.

As for the Valentine 1, it's the best detector on the market per se. It needs help with Laser, but they all do. By the time the Laser goes off it's to late. I'll be adding a K40 Laser Diffuser to the car this spring which should take care of that minor problem.

My MM now has 9000 miles, new 11/04/02, and gets better each day. With the addition of the chip and gears, it now does what it should have done when built. For a big heavy car, it now runs like a scared dog with it's tail between it's legs. I also purchased a set of pre-production exhaust tips which improved on the exhaust note.

Gotta love the car!

[martyo]

Not to get all mushy on you guys or anything, but you guys are great!!

I take delivery of my '03MM on 2/1/03 (or so says the dealer). I have work issues so its gotta be a Saturday.... I won't pick up a car in the cark - I made that mistake before!

It looks like my cat will be set up similarly to Vince's (Marauder03's), right down to the dead pedal (by the way what color are your Bob White inserts? - they look great. Have to admit that I was leaning toward the red though...).

Spent the day yesterday trying to find someone I can trust to help with the Reinhart stuff. I am not sure the deealer even knows how to fuel this car ("no, I don't think you need to run premium grade fuel".......) I figure once the car is squared away, I can go back to focusing on work (yeah, right!!!).

Anyway, thanks again!!

[Macon Marauder]

Don't forget to check for traction control (or lack of it) - depending on your preferences.

Mine has a build date of 10/18/02 and no TC. Only problem has been a few missing parts (passenger side front door trim and spare) and swirl marks in the paint.

Enjoy!

[chapel1]

Good Luck and welcome Vince!

[jonroe]

I feel I need to be careful because I pick up my new MM next Friday at a dealer 275 miles away. So, I must take a 275 mile trip to get home on Friday! I plan to vary engine and car speeds throughout the trip. I won't use cruise control and will sometimes use the OD, sometimes not. I will vary the speed all to avoid constant engine RPMs for any extended periods of time. I think this is a time tested approach.

Jon

[SergntMac]

WARNING!

OLD THREAD

STALE DATA

OUTDATED ADVICE

Carry on...

[FiveO]

Marty....you push that pedal to the floor and you might cause an earthquake in souther Cali.

Think of our westcoast friends before you stomp!!!


;) :D

[FiveO]

Oops...

Guess it still applies though!

[David Morton]

Jonroe, drive at varying speeds. Run the piss out of it. WOT launches up to the 1-2 shift, let off and let the oil wash up on the cylinders and then get back on it. If traffic won't allow that, try dropping it down into manual first at, say, 35 MPH and watch out! 4500 RPMs and she stands up like a Bengal Tiger, growling, ready to pounce. Blip the throttle a few times and then drop her back into drive and watch the thumbs up from the boys driving Mustangs and a few Impalas as well. This will give you a good break-in for the cylinder walls and rings as well as expose any defects in materials. Change the oil only, early and look at the pan for any metal.

I dropped the oil at 1500 miles, and again at 3000, then took it into the dealership for the 5000 mi LOF.

This is what I did. And I've just replaced my first set of rear tires at 7,000 miles. Go figure.

[chrish]

I feel I need to be careful because I pick up my new MM next Friday at a dealer 275 miles away. So, I must take a 275 mile trip to get home on Friday! I plan to vary engine and car speeds throughout the trip. I won't use cruise control and will sometimes use the OD, sometimes not. I will vary the speed all to avoid constant engine RPMs for any extended periods of time. I think this is a time tested approach.

Jon



just trying to help-out AGAIN............ :banned: :beatnik:

[MarauderMark]

Hey Marty your gonna have to break it in again? Breaking in the same car twice. 1st time :drive: 2nd time:burn: