Oil question

[danbike]

Sorry if this is a repeat, but we got our Marauder and I have a question on oils.

Is it necessary to use the Motorcraft 5W20, or has anyone been running Pennzoil 5W20?

Just wondering.


Dan

[Marauder8]

As long as you use synthetic oil you are OK.

[Petrograde]

I use Mobil 1 5w30.. I've been using it for 15K miles (out of 20K total) No problems. Good stuff! :up:

For future questions,... try using the search box at the top of the home page. 9 times out of 10 you'll find the answer you need.

oh yeah,... welcome to the site!!!

[jgc61sr2002]

Sorry if this is a repeat, but we got our Marauder and I have a question on oils.

Is it necessary to use the Motorcraft 5W20, or has anyone been running Pennzoil 5W20?

Just wondering.


Dan

Dan I don't think that is a problem. RF will surely chim in shortly.

[CRUZTAKER]

RF will surely chim in shortly.
Well before he does...I use Royal Purple 5W30.
:hide:

[danbike]

I did try the search function and there was surprisingly little discussion on types of oil, or perhaps I didn't search correctly. What is funny, on the motorcycle groups I participate in, just bring up the question of oil and you get plenty of discussion.

Dan

[2003_MM_FYRE49]

Sorry if this is a repeat, but we got our Marauder and I have a question on oils.

Is it necessary to use the Motorcraft 5W20, or has anyone been running Pennzoil 5W20?

Just wondering.


Dan

Dan I use Pennzoil's 100% synthetic 5W20 motor oil in both my Marauder and Mountaineer and it works great.

[SergntMac]

What is funny, on the motorcycle groups I participate in, just bring up the question of oil and you get plenty of discussion. Dan
Yeah...It's likewise "funny" here, Dan. Like flowers, grass and shrubs, just give it a little daylight and some moisture, and the 411 will flourish before your eyes.

BTW, you're the third active "Dan" here, as I count them. You compete with the screename "Dan" and the signature "-Dan" as well. Unless you get more unique, I suspect this will soon be more funny.

Maybe you could be x-Dan?

Man-oh-man, that was stupid...Nevermind?

Welcome to our home, how can we help you?

Ack...That sounds as Stepford dumb***** as I have ever sounded...

Hello, Dan...Naw, that's more BladeRunner *****...

Awe****it. Whatever...

Hey...Whazzup.

Yeah, that feels good...Whazzup, x-Dan?

[Mike Poore]

Is it necessary to use the Motorcraft 5W20, or has anyone been running Pennzoil 5W20


Dan
Hi, Dan, and welcome. Think Synthetic oils only. Many of us are Amsoil fans, but Mobile 1 is a very good product and fulfills and exceeds the service requirements of the DOHC engine.
:welcome:

[BillyGman]

I don't use synthetic oil. Just that "synthetic blend" Motorcraft 5W20 stuff that the owners' manual calls out for. It's my opinion that Ford must have reasons for calling out for that. So that's what I use. Same thing w/the rear end, and transmission fluids. I only use the type that was put in there in the first place from the factory.


I've heard of a number of guys who have changed the stock rear end cover for the heavy duty covers that include the bearing girdles on them having problems w/leaks. But because just about all of them that I know of also switching to synthetic gear lube at the same time, we might never know if the leaks they've experienced are caused by the covers or by the synthetic lubes that they've switched to. I've heard rumors that synthetics can cause leaks, but I'm not sure if there's any truth to that. Then there are those who go w/a lighter oil weight than the manufacture calls out for. I've heard of "0W20" weight from some on this board. I've also heard of engine failures. Makes me wonder. But I cannot draw any definate conclusions. I'm merely speculating here. Thanks, but I'll stay w/what Ford put in there.

[MERCMAN]

Yeah...It's likewise "funny" here, Dan. Like flowers, grass and shrubs, just give it a little daylight and some moisture, and the 411 will flourish before your eyes.

BTW, you're the third active "Dan" here, as I count them. You compete with the screename "Dan" and the signature "-Dan" as well. Unless you get more unique, I suspect this will soon be more funny.

Maybe you could be x-Dan?

Man-oh-man, that was stupid...Nevermind?

Welcome to our home, how can we help you?

Ack...That sounds as Stepford dumb***** as I have ever sounded...

Hello, Dan...Naw, that's more BladeRunner *****...

Awe****it. Whatever...

Hey...Whazzup.

Yeah, that feels good...Whazzup, x-Dan?

HEY!! I resemble that remark!! :lol:

[dwasson]

There is a Dan surplus here.

[jobrien8]

As for using synthetic 0-w-30, the only good thing about it is that it can be used at a higher temperature. The 5-w-20 and 5-w-30 that we use in testing the maximum temperature that we are allowed is 275 degrees F.. Now with the 0-w-30 (Mobil 1), that is changed to 325 degrees F.. Also this oil is recommended for use in the Aston-Martin V-12, as in the Corvette. If you plan on your oil getting above 275 deg. F., switch. If not, regular 5-w-20 will do the trick. Just change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. With any synthetic, 5-7,000 miles is ok.
Does this help or cause more dissention within what is right and what is wrong!

[rayjay]

I plan on using Mobil 1 0w20 for winter. My car sits outside in sub zero weather. In spring I'll change it out for the Royal Purple 5w20 I won in the MMV2 raffle. Can't see wasting the RP on winter driving.

[jakdad]

Our previous cars went to the FLM dealers for oil & filter changes. Whatever they squirt in it is a matter of record in their computer system. If it blows up, it's on their dime. We will do the same with the MM.

[MERCMAN]

just wait for RF!!! he is about due to post, he is the "oil king"

[RF Overlord]

danbike:

It is not "necessary" to use Motorcraft 5W-20...although it IS an excellent oil and you will have no troubles with it. It's an especially good deal at Wally World ($1.42/qt)...and it's what I would be using were I not using Mobil 1.

I originally used Pennzoil synth blend 5W-30, then switched to their "full synthetic" until I found out that it is NOT a true synthetic oil. It's a Group III Severely Hydrocracked dino oil. If you want a TRUE synth, then your choices are Mobil 1, AMSOIL, Redline and Royal Purple, plus a few other boutique oils that are either hard to find, or very expensive.

[SergntMac]

HEY!! I resemble that remark!! :lol:
Whoops, sorry, didn't mean to exclude you, Dan. To me, you're "Y-Dan" because everytime you delete one of my posts, I'm wondering "why, Dan?" LOL...

Anyway, like I said, give it time, the oil topic will flourish. BTW, I agree with jakdad in using the dealer's 5W20 blend, and his record keeping system, for the stated reasons.

BillyG...I've got the Ford Racing girdle and stud kit in place for over a year now, and I used the dealer's rear end gear lube and friction modifier too. No seepage here.

[BillyGman]

BillyG...I've got the Ford Racing girdle and stud kit in place for over a year now, and I used the dealer's rear end gear lube and friction modifier too. No seepage here.
Now that's some good info MAC. Thankyou. BTW, did the dealer fill it w/the standard 70W90 weight gear lube, or the 75W140 synthetic?

[Bigdogjim]

[QUOTE=BillyGman]I don't use synthetic oil. Just that "synthetic blend" Motorcraft 5W20 stuff that the owners' manual calls out for. It's my opinion that Ford must have reasons for calling out for that.[Its's due to MPG #'s, Honda uses it also. I have V-10 with 310,000 miles on it in a Ford E-350 in only 4 years. It works:) ]

So that's what I use. Same thing w/the rear end, and transmission fluids. I only use the type that was put in there in the first place from the factory.


I've heard of a number of guys who have changed the stock rear end cover for the heavy duty covers that include the bearing girdles on them having problems w/leaks.

[Only switch once and early because sunthetic will eat the seals. On the rear you new a new seal each time? If so should be no leaks?]


Lots of moving parts in a D.O.H.C. engine. I feel safer with synthetic. My point of view:)

[prchrman]

Get my MM serviced at a SVT dealer and the manager told me that the 5W-20 is used due to slow drainage back into the oil pan from the tall head decks...he said he had saw several cobra's that had failed with oil related issues and that in each one higher viscosity oil had been used and it did cause scavaging in the oil pan (drain back) at substanded higher rpm operation...he stated full syn or half syn not a problem just not to exceed suggested viscosity...willie...OBTW, love these oil threads

[jstevens]

As for using synthetic 0-w-30, the only good thing about it is that it can be used at a higher temperature. The 5-w-20 and 5-w-30 that we use in testing the maximum temperature that we are allowed is 275 degrees F.. Now with the 0-w-30 (Mobil 1), that is changed to 325 degrees F.. Also this oil is recommended for use in the Aston-Martin V-12, as in the Corvette. If you plan on your oil getting above 275 deg. F., switch. If not, regular 5-w-20 will do the trick. Just change the oil and filter every 3,000 miles. With any synthetic, 5-7,000 miles is ok.
Does this help or cause more dissention within what is right and what is wrong!

John, I take mine to the dealer as well and let them put in whatever the "stock" oil is supposed to be.
But, Bob Maxey LM recommended changing at 5K intervals. Do all of you agree or disagree? Now, don't be shy.

[BillyGman]

I think that it should be changed every 3-5,000 miles. That should be fine. Ofcourse synthetics wouldn't have to be changed as often as that.

[Bigdogjim]

John, I take mine to the dealer as well and let them put in whatever the "stock" oil is supposed to be.
But, Bob Maxey LM recommended changing at 5K intervals. Do all of you agree or disagree? Now, don't be shy.
Before I can attempt to answer your question let me ask one. How long you plan on keeping this car? If you say 2-3 years then fine follow the "book" If you plan on keeping the car for a very long time then I would "dump" the oil every 3,000. If it was MY Marauder then I would switch to Mobil One synthetic oil change every 6,000 miles. But then again that's me:)

[jakdad]

3000 miles 'cause I'm never sure how long I will keep a car. Just S.O.P.

:cool: :cool:

[Amsoil_Dealer]

.


I've heard rumors that synthetics can cause leaks, but I'm not sure if there's any truth to that.

There is not any truth to this with today's synthetics. Particularly on newer cars. All modern synthetic lubes have seal conditioners in them to prevent leaks and the oldest Marauder out there is only a couple of years old.

Old cars with gunked up engines can leak when switched to synthetic doe to the superior detergents cleaning all the sludge away from the old dried out seals. This should not be problem in a Maruader.

Per the original post, there is no problem with Pennzoil 5W20 for 5000 mile intervals. There are better oils available and modern synthetics can almost always endure longer drain intevals, but any of the 5W20 oils will work fine for 5000 miles.

Don

[jstevens]

Before I can attempt to answer your question let me ask one. How long you plan on keeping this car? If you say 2-3 years then fine follow the "book" If you plan on keeping the car for a very long time then I would "dump" the oil every 3,000. If it was MY Marauder then I would switch to Mobil One synthetic oil change every 6,000 miles. But then again that's me:)

Well, you've got me thinking now. I do plan on keeping it and want to make sure the engine stays happy. Plus, I drive it pretty hard, of course, not as hard as Barry's.
I'll check into this Mobil One Synthetic. If I switch to MO Synthetic, do I still run 5W20?

[rayjay]

I have yet to see a 5w20 Mobil 1, they make 0w20. As for viscosity, it was my understanding that FMC went to 5w20 to improve their CAFE #s. I've been lead to believe that there were no changes in engine tolerances, but a slight improvement with the sewing machine weight oil in MPG for the fleet numbers.

Then, you can't always believe what you read on the net, right???

As for engine reliablity, I'd say the jurys still out on the 5w20. Its only been 2-3 years since FMC made the switch to sewing machine oil. Normal driving miles for the average consumer have not reached the point where engines start to expire due to oil related failures. IMHO...

[Bigdogjim]

As for engine reliablity, I'd say the jurys still out on the 5w20. Its only been 2-3 years since FMC made the switch to sewing machine oil. Normal driving miles for the average consumer have not reached the point where engines start to expire due to oil related failures. IMHO...

Well in a Ford E-350 I have two over 300,000 miles. One V-10 and one 5.4 V-8..:):) I know they are not Marauders. But lets face it you all are not as hard on your cars as my guys are on the vans:)

5W-20 changed every 3,000 miles. Pull a dipstick and the oil is sooooo clean:)

[SergntMac]

Before we go on (again) about what options we have, can anyone tell me what (if anything) is wrong with using the recommended 5W20 synthetic blend oil the dealers offer us? Is it bad oil?

[jgc61sr2002]

Before we go on (again) about what options we have, can anyone tell me what (if anything) is wrong with using the recommended 5W20 synthetic blend oil the dealers offer us? Is it bad oil?

FMC recommends the 5W20 synthetic. They built the Marauder and I'll use the oil that is recommended. As long as a name brand oil meets or exceeds the manufactures specs. you should have no problems. Use the 3K or 3 month oil change,mileage/timeframe. Sarge. you already knew that.

[Bigdogjim]

Before we go on (again) about what options we have, can anyone tell me what (if anything) is wrong with using the recommended 5W20 synthetic blend oil the dealers offer us? Is it bad oil?

I can not belive I am replying to you? Anyway it's not "bad" oil it just that their is "other" oil that offers better protection for our engines. Our motors with all the "extra" moving parts could use a little extra protection.I know their is a very technical explanation.It made sense when I first asked about it. Hope you get my point.


Mac if I could spell I would rule the world...:lol:......... :poke:

[jobrien8]

Reason I change oil/filter about 7k, is that I drive the freeway system of Detroit about 75% of the time. Since I work midnites there isn't much traffic to contend with. And like Dan said in another post, you have to drive 85 on 696 just to pace!! So I wear the oil a little differently than a surface dweller, who may want to change a little more frequently.

[RF Overlord]

can anyone tell me what (if anything) is wrong with using the recommended 5W20 synthetic blend oil the dealers offer us? Is it bad oil?

Mac, the factory-recommended Motorcraft 5W-20 is actually rebottled Conoco Hydro-Clear, and has turned out to be an excellent oil. Most of the nay-sayers over on BITOG (myself included) have been surprised by the good UOAs it's putting up in the modular motors.

Having said that, I need to emphasize that these good numbers apply only to the MOTORCRAFT 5W-20, not to any other brand. Are the other 5W-20s just as good? Maybe...maybe not...I for one am not volunteering MY motor to test them.

I think if one is using the dealer as their oil-change place, one needs to verify that they are in fact using Motorcraft oil. Don't automatically assume that because it's a Ford dealer, they're using Ford oil. Many dealers use "other" oils that they buy in bulk...many dealers also don't want to stock multiple viscosities so they put 5W-or 10W-30 in everything and will tell you it doesn't matter...again, I'm not volunteering my motor to find out...

Another trend I've noticed is people thinking that because they've had their oil changed at the dealer, if anything goes wrong, they're sitting pretty. That's all well and good, until you hit the magic 36,000-mile number. The plain fact is, it's VERY unusual for any oil-related problems to occur during the warranty interval REGARDLESS of the type or viscosity of the oil used...most issues are going to occur much later, when Ford and their dealer network no longer care about you.

I'll close with this: I doubt it REALLY matters what oil, or what viscosity one uses, as long as you aren't WAY out of line from what the factory recommends; for instance, don't use some unknown house-brand oil you bought at a yard sale...and don't use an out-of-date oil (anything less than SL)...and don't use 20W-50 in Canada...etc.

[SergntMac]

Thanks, guys, carry on...

[jakdad]

Thanks, guys, carry on...
Wut he said!!!
:wflag: :wflag: :wflag:

[rayjay]

Well in a Ford E-350 I have two over 300,000 miles. One V-10 and one 5.4 V-8..:):) I know they are not Marauders. But lets face it you all are not as hard on your cars as my guys are on the vans:)

5W-20 changed every 3,000 miles. Pull a dipstick and the oil is sooooo clean:)

Bigdogjim, thats the kind of info I like to hear.

[RVT04]

Mac, the factory-recommended Motorcraft 5W-20 is actually rebottled Conoco Hydro-Clear, and has turned out to be an excellent oil. Most of the nay-sayers over on BITOG (myself included) have been surprised by the good UOAs it's putting up in the modular motors.

Having said that, I need to emphasize that these good numbers apply only to the MOTORCRAFT 5W-20, not to any other brand. Are the other 5W-20s just as good? Maybe...maybe not...I for one am not volunteering MY motor to test them.

I think if one is using the dealer as their oil-change place, one needs to verify that they are in fact using Motorcraft oil. Don't automatically assume that because it's a Ford dealer, they're using Ford oil. Many dealers use "other" oils that they buy in bulk...many dealers also don't want to stock multiple viscosities so they put 5W-or 10W-30 in everything and will tell you it doesn't matter...again, I'm not volunteering my motor to find out...

Another trend I've noticed is people thinking that because they've had their oil changed at the dealer, if anything goes wrong, they're sitting pretty. That's all well and good, until you hit the magic 36,000-mile number. The plain fact is, it's VERY unusual for any oil-related problems to occur during the warranty interval REGARDLESS of the type or viscosity of the oil used...most issues are going to occur much later, when Ford and their dealer network no longer care about you.

I'll close with this: I doubt it REALLY matters what oil, or what viscosity one uses, as long as you aren't WAY out of line from what the factory recommends; for instance, don't use some unknown house-brand oil you bought at a yard sale...and don't use an out-of-date oil (anything less than SL)...and don't use 20W-50 in Canada...etc.
MY 2 CENTS
I WORK IN A CHEMICAL PLANT AND SEVERAL HUNDRED OF OUR 2000 PLUS PRODUCTS ARE LUBRICANTS
WE HAVE A HUGE LUBRICATION LAB AND I TRUST OUR GURU TO BE A STRAIGHT SHOOTER
WE HAVE TWO MARAUDERS AND I BOUGHT MINE USED IT HAD MOTORCRAFT 5W-20 IN IT AS SOON AS I GOT IT OFF THE LM LOT IN FACT I MADE EM CHANGE IT AGAIN AFTER 500 MILES
THE NEW ONE HAD MOTORCRAFT 5W-20 IN IT FROM THE BEGINNING
NOW WE BOTH HAVE OUR OIL CHANGED AT AN SVT/ LM DEALER THAT BULKS QUAKERSTATE SEMI SYN 5W-20 THE FIRST TIME THEY CHANGED OIL IN THE NEW MARAUDER AND I SAW THE QS STICKER ON THE WINDSHIELD I ALMOST HAD A STROKE SO I ASKED THE SVT GUYS AND THEY TOLD ME BETTER DRAINBACK AND BETTER FILMING AT HIGHER TEMPS
SO I ASKED THE HOUSE GURU ABOUT THE DIFFERENCE IN QS AND MOTORCRAFT ---- ARE YOU READY FOR THIS
TEMP RANGE THE SAME LUBRICATION CHARACTERISTICS IDENTICAL THE ONLY DIFF. IS THE MOTORCRAFT HAS A SLIGHTLY HIGHER EMULSIFIER PERCENTAGE(LESS THAN 1-2% HIGHER) TO HOLD CONTAMINATES IN SUSPENSION LONGER . SO ONE MM HAS QS SEMI-SYN AND THE OTHER HAS MOTORCRAFT SEMI-SYN BOTH 5W-20 BOTH GET CHANGED AT THE DEALER @ 2500-3000 MILES
WILL LET YA'LL KNOW IN 20 YEARS WHICH ONE IS BURNING MORE OIL

[MERCMAN]

Hope I can remember how to log on to the site in 20 years :lol:

[Fourth Horseman]

I'll close with this: I doubt it REALLY matters what oil, or what viscosity one uses, as long as you aren't WAY out of line from what the factory recommends; for instance, don't use some unknown house-brand oil you bought at a yard sale...and don't use an out-of-date oil (anything less than SL)...and don't use 20W-50 in Canada...etc.

:nworthy:
I think the above sums up the oil issue nicely.

[Bigdogjim]

Thanks, guys, carry on...


Before I carry on I just want to add lower oil temp with full synthetic less chance of sludge. All of which is good for your motor and wallet:):):)

Time to take a nap,Mercman wake me up in 20 years.. :woohoo: :rofl:

[Petrograde]

Rtv... Caps Lock!!!

[Fourth Horseman]

Rtv... Caps Lock!!!

SUDDENLY I WAS BACK IN THE DAYS OF MY COMMODORE VIC-20.
:cheer:

[TripleTransAm]

SUDDENLY I WAS BACK IN THE DAYS OF MY COMMODORE VIC-20.
:cheer:


No way... sprites rule!

(yes, my first computer was a Vic-20 with its blazing 3.5k of RAM, and I was insanely jealous of my cousin's "spritely" 64...)

[jakdad]

That's it! I'm outta here!!!

:D :D :D

[Bigdogjim]

Time to close this one down.

[RVT04]

No way... sprites rule!

(yes, my first computer was a Vic-20 with its blazing 3.5k of RAM, and I was insanely jealous of my cousin's "spritely" 64...)ok you wanna go back in time
i wrote my first library on a univac digital trainer in binary code with memory core loop storage one byte at a time
took a week to get enuff info in there to turn the damn thing off.lol

[Merc-O-matic]

Wow...and I'm still using Sinclair 30 weight!

Gotta Love it! :run:

[SergntMac]

Sprite is just too sweet for my tastes, Seven-Up, or Vernor's please...

[merc406]

Dumped the Mobil1 for Dino last month, actually am using diesel Mobil oil, better suspension and film strength for my 41 year old. :burnout:

[RF Overlord]

Dumped the Mobil1 for Dino last month, actually am using diesel Mobil oil, better suspension and film strength for my 41 year old. :burnout:

merc406: Would that be Delvac 1300? The 10W-30 or the 15W-40?

[merc406]

merc406: Would that be Delvac 1300? The 10W-30 or the 15W-40?



Yes RF, 1300- 15W-40, didn't see it in 10W form.

[RF Overlord]

Yes RF, 1300- 15W-40, didn't see it in 10W form.

The 10W-30 (http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/NAUSE2CVLMOMobil_Delvac_1300_S uper.asp) is nowhere near as common...

I'm thinking of trying the 15W-40 in my '68 Buick GS...I've been using various brands of 20W-50, but I think the Delvac will do fine and clean the motor out a bit, too...plus it's a steal at Wally World: $5.88/gal... :woohoo:

[blown & bad]

Sorry if this is a repeat, but we got our Marauder and I have a question on oils.

Is it necessary to use the Motorcraft 5W20, or has anyone been running Pennzoil 5W20?

Just wondering.


DanMy MM has 15k miles on it with the Trilogy kit, and I was concerned with possible oil breakdown @ higher temps. I researched Motrorcraft oil options, and found that they offered a full synthetic 5W20. I have used it exclusively without any problems and the engine seems to be quieter and smoother with this lube. Rumor has it that Mobil makes this product for Motorcraft. The Penzoil may be OK, I just like the Motorcraft.

Just my opinion

[Kramer]

So is there an issue with using 0W20 from Mobile 1. They don't seem to have a 5W20?

[RF Overlord]

Rumor has it that Mobil makes this product for Motorcraft.Motorcraft oils are made by ConocoPhillips...
So is there an issue with using 0W20 from Mobile 1. They don't seem to have a 5W20?There should be no problem using Mobil 1 0W-20. The recommended oil, Motorcraft 5W-20 is 49/8.8 cSt, while the Mobil 1 0W-20 is 43/8.4.

[rayjay]

Amsoil makes 5w-20, so does Royal Purple.

[Wagonmaster]

Motorcraft oils are made by ConocoPhillips...There should be no problem using Mobil 1 0W-20. The recommended oil, Motorcraft 5W-20 is 49/8.8 cSt, while the Mobil 1 0W-20 is 43/8.4.
Ahem, ah excuse me, Mr Overlord could you please explain wtf 49/8.8 vs Mobil One's 43/8.4 means......I am not knowing http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/images/icons/icon5.gif

Thanks, GT

[Cobra25]

When I Purchased My Marauder It Had Motorcraft Oil In It. Since Then I Tryed Moble One 0-20, Royal Purple 5-20 And Amsoil 5w20. I Felt That The Motorcraft Oil Made The Engine A Little Quieter But At This Time I'm Using Amsoil. I Guess It's Just Personal Prefence.

[jonroe]

There was a comment about 0W- oils being thinner. These oils flow better when cold (great advantage) but flow the same when hot, i.e., 0W-20 is the same as 5W-20 when warmed up.

The only (old) knock on a wider viscosity range is that for dino oils wider viscosity ranges could be troublesome because of all the additives needed to stabilize them. The new FULL synthetics really don't have a problem with "wide" viscosity ranges, i.e., 0W-30 is just as stable as 5W-30.

I like the idea of using 0W- for the cold winter starts when a car sits outside overnight. The engine gets lubed quicker than with 5W-. My opinion plus some facts from various oil analyses.

Jon

[RF Overlord]

Ahem, ah excuse me, Mr Overlord could you please explain wtf 49/8.8 vs Mobil One's 43/8.4 means...

Oil's viscosity is measured in centiStokes (cSt)...at 40°C and 100°C...so Mobil 1 0W-20 is 43 cSt at 40° and 8.4 cSt at 100°. That makes it a "thick" 20 as the range for that rating is from 5.6 to 9.3.

[Wagonmaster]

Oil's viscosity is measured in centiStokes (cSt)...at 40°C and 100°C...so Mobil 1 0W-20 is 43 cSt at 40° and 8.4 cSt at 100°. That makes it a "thick" 20 as the range for that rating is from 5.6 to 9.3.
Thank you sir. You :rock:

GT

[Mard]

I was searching on what motor oil folks are using and ran into this thread.

I have used Mobil1 in my last couple cars (97 Cobra, 02 Focus) and it seemed to work well, but didn't own either car long enough to see the long term impact of my decision, whether negative of positive, on the life of the motor. I believe with each car I had to use a slightly different grade than Ford recommended because Mobil didn't make it.
I'm leaning towards going with 0W20 Mobil1 (Amsoil 5W20 is running a close 2nd) with a Motorcraft filter.

I appreciate all the good info everyone provides on this site.

Anyone here feel they may actually pick-up a horse or two running synthetic?

New signature o.k:confused: .......not offending anyone:mad2:?

[RF Overlord]

Mard, Mobil 1 0W-20 is an excellent choice, as is the Motorcraft filter. AMSOIL is also an excellent choice, although their 5W-20 (XLM) is not a TRUE synthetic; it's a Group III. You have to step up to their 5W-30 (ASL) to get a true synth.

BTW, Your mother is a hamster and your father smells of elderberries.

[Amsoil_Dealer]

BTW, Your mother is a hamster and your father smells of elderberries.

I saw this and said to myself WTF? Then I saw his Monty Python quote and I got the picture.


My Favorite was:

Maitre D: "How are you today Mr. Creasote?"

Mr. Creasote: "Better"

Maitre D: "Better Sir?"

Mr. Creasote: "Better bring me my bucket I am going to throw up."

[Amsoil_Dealer]

Mard, Mobil 1 0W-20 is an excellent choice, as is the Motorcraft filter. AMSOIL is also an excellent choice, although their 5W-20 (XLM) is not a TRUE synthetic; it's a Group III. You have to step up to their 5W-30 (ASL) to get a true synth.


All, I recently sumbitted a sample of 5W20 to Oil Analyzers Inc. on which I ran a drain interval over 8000 miles. At 4000 miles the numbers looked great. It may only be a group III "synthetic" but it is pretty tough and cheaper (at preferred customer prices*) than Mobil-1. I'll post the results when I receive them.

Don

*Preferred Customer Link - http://orders.amsoil.com/preferred.php4?sponsor=508684

[rayjay]

All, I recently sumbitted a sample of 5W20 to Oil Analyzers Inc. on which I ran a drain interval over 8000 miles. At 4000 miles the numbers looked great. It may only be a group III "synthetic" but it is pretty tough and cheaper (at preferred customer prices*) than Mobil-1. I'll post the results when I receive them.

Don

*Preferred Customer Link - http://orders.amsoil.com/preferred.php4?sponsor=508684
What type of driving do you do? A lot of mine would be considered severe duty, 3.5 miles to work, 3.5 miles home, in very cold weather. I do let the engine warm up so it reaches full operating temp. I've been reluctant to go to extended change intervals in the winter. Any thoughts?

[Amsoil_Dealer]

What type of driving do you do? A lot of mine would be considered severe duty, 3.5 miles to work, 3.5 miles home, in very cold weather. I do let the engine warm up so it reaches full operating temp. I've been reluctant to go to extended change intervals in the winter. Any thoughts?

My driving is 70/30 Highway/city on flat Florida terrain so it easy on oil. On the other hand, it is Florida heat and I often sit idling in the heat while on a phone call or two. So that is tough.

Any Ideas? Yes. On your next change try oil analysis and see what the results are. I can help you interpret the resulkts and recommend a drain interval for you. Even with your driving duty 7500 mile intervals should be easy.

Link to Oil Analysis; http://www.syntheticsexcel.com/oil_analyzers_inc.htm

I have a handful of these kits in stock for immediate delivery if you want to give it a try.

Don