View Full Version : sound proofing interior of car
John F. Russo
10-14-2004, 09:53 AM
I'm interested in reducing the noise level in my car to the maximum practical level.
SergntMac suggested a product called Dynamit (spelling unsure).
Is this the best product and where do you put it.
Has anyone done this professionally? Estimated cost?
Update- 4 hrs later
I called a local of Dynamat dealer . It would cost me about $1800 for the entire floor and back deck. Front and back seat would be removed. The job would take two days. If I add the four doors, it would cost approximately an additional $600. He wants to see the car for a firm quote. He does work on exotic cars like Porches etc.
Wow! I'll be waiting awhile for this. I prefer to get Cobra headers. It will cost me about $900 and it gets me more acceleration which I prefer at this time.
I 'll see how much noisier it gets before I make this large investment.
Joe Walsh
10-14-2004, 10:01 AM
'DYNAMAT' and Yes it works well at dampening noise...but the stuff weighs a ton! It is a self sticking DENSE grey material available in rolls...Crutchfield sells it but I'm sure they are NOT the cheapest.
www.dynamat.com
the fat bastid
10-14-2004, 11:53 AM
dynamat in general is not cheap.
look around for what other car audio companies call thier version.
i remeber stinger makes some..not sure what its called. but there are plenty
you can even use home roofing stuff.
home depot sells stuff called stormguard/iceguard/what-ever-season-it-happens-to-be-guard.
its all the same stuff, dense pack clay based sheets. the home depot stuff is
about 100 times cheaper but i hear it smells up the car longer.
2003 MIB
10-14-2004, 12:13 PM
i remeber stinger makes some..not sure what its called.
Roadkill- I had my doors done when I upgraded speakers. Cheaper than Dynamat and I think it works as well. My .02
Matt In Detroit
10-14-2004, 12:38 PM
Home Depot sells a 1/8 thick foam duct insulation that is self adhesive on one side and foil/aluminum on the other. Its nice looking. i used it on a AC Cobra i built and it worked real nice. It was about 10 bucks for approx a 10 ft x 2ft roll
Patrick
10-14-2004, 02:10 PM
I'm interested in reducing the noise level in my car to the maximum practical level.
SergntMac suggested a product called Dynamit (spelling unsure).
Is this the best product and where do you put it.
Has anyone done this professionally? Estimated cost?
Update- 4 hrs later
I called a local of Dynamat dealer . It would cost me about $1800 for the entire floor and back deck. Front and back seat would be removed. The job would take two days. If I add the four doors, it would cost approximately an additional $600. He wants to see the car for a firm quote. He does work on exotic cars like Porches etc.
Wow! I'll be waiting awhile for this. I prefer to get Cobra headers. It will cost me about $900 and it gets me more acceleration which I prefer at this time.
I 'll see how much noisier it gets before I make this large investment.
I am planning a Dynomat project myself. But just the trunck area, trunk lid. This is part of my stero project. My installer and I are still working out the deatils but when done I will let all know. Crutchfield is fairly resonable on prices!!
BK_GrandMarquis
10-14-2004, 06:37 PM
I'm interested in reducing the noise level in my car to the maximum practical level.
SergntMac suggested a product called Dynamit (spelling unsure).
Is this the best product and where do you put it.
Has anyone done this professionally? Estimated cost?
Update- 4 hrs later
I called a local of Dynamat dealer . It would cost me about $1800 for the entire floor and back deck. Front and back seat would be removed. The job would take two days. If I add the four doors, it would cost approximately an additional $600. He wants to see the car for a firm quote. He does work on exotic cars like Porches etc.
Wow! I'll be waiting awhile for this. I prefer to get Cobra headers. It will cost me about $900 and it gets me more acceleration which I prefer at this time.
I 'll see how much noisier it gets before I make this large investment.
Check out www.b-quiet.com (http://www.b-quiet.com)
I bought 2 70 sq.ft. rolls of the brown bread, 1 Hliner for under the hood and 1 LComp to go over the area in the car above the mufflers. The 2 rolls are enough to do the trunk, all 4 doors and the entire floor of the car. In some areas I have double layers. I still have a bit left but don't know where to put it. I think the combination of the brown bread and LComp is better than 2 or 3 layers of brown bread alone. The only thing is the LComp is more expensive. All this sound deadening is also going to make the car much heavier. I can't remember the shipping weight but I am pretty sure I gained about 150-200 lbs. after all that.
SergntMac
10-14-2004, 07:08 PM
John...If you're going to install the Reinhart "Cobra" exhaust system, you shouldn't need any Dynamat at all.
It depends on your hearing sensitity of course, but the Cobra exhaust does not add to what you already hear, if you retain the OEM mufflers.
Worst case scenario here is that you also change out your mufflers, which may increase some "hum" from the rear seat. Personally, I find this "hum" pleasing, but it may not be pleasing to you. If this becomes the case, plan to Dynamat under the rear seats and floor only, which is much cheaper than your posted plan.
John F. Russo
10-15-2004, 11:46 AM
Check out www.b-quiet.com (http://www.b-quiet.com)
All this sound deadening is also going to make the car much heavier. I can't remember the shipping weight but I am pretty sure I gained about 150-200 lbs. after all that.
Wow! I thought it would add 50 lbs, maybe 100 lbs max.
How much did it cost you to do the work? What was the approximate cost for the materials?
BK_GrandMarquis
10-17-2004, 02:49 PM
Wow! I thought it would add 50 lbs, maybe 100 lbs max.
How much did it cost you to do the work? What was the approximate cost for the materials?
It came out to be about $450 worth of materials. I did the install myself so there was no additional cost. If you do it yourself, make sure you wear old jeans or something. The tar like material gets real messy when you lay it down.
You were right about the weight. I was mixing up the square footage the material covers with the weight of the material. That actually makes me feel better. My car didn't put on as much weight as I thought it did. :D The shipping weight for the two shipments were 36 lbs. and 20 lbs. So I added about 50 lbs. of weight so far. I didn't finish on of the rolls.
CRUZTAKER
10-17-2004, 03:51 PM
As I have said all along, the dynomat works wonderfully. It is...the best out there. But if weight is an issue for you, too much is gonna hurt.
Dynomat comes in different thickness' and you should choose you product and installation locations carefully.
valleyman
10-18-2004, 09:35 PM
I'm interested in reducing the noise level in my car to the maximum practical level.
SergntMac suggested a product called Dynamit (spelling unsure).
Is this the best product and where do you put it.
Has anyone done this professionally? Estimated cost?
Update- 4 hrs later
I called a local of Dynamat dealer . It would cost me about $1800 for the entire floor and back deck. Front and back seat would be removed. The job would take two days. If I add the four doors, it would cost approximately an additional $600. He wants to see the car for a firm quote. He does work on exotic cars like Porches etc.
Wow! I'll be waiting awhile for this. I prefer to get Cobra headers. It will cost me about $900 and it gets me more acceleration which I prefer at this time.
I 'll see how much noisier it gets before I make this large investment.
I used Dynamat on parts of my front doors and the whole package shelf behind the rear seat and it does a good job of deadening sound. BUT....
To me it was just way too expensive to think about doing the trunk, floors, C pillar, back doors, etc. I found another product that I just finished putting on both back doors that works just as well. It's called "Jiffy Seal" and I found it in the roofing materials section of Home Depot (the SKU # is 711238). It costs $17 for a 6"x50' roll. It's black, tarry/rubbery/sticky, and heavy just like Dynamat but it is adhesive on both sides. It's not quite as thick as the thickest Dynamat so I put on three layers. It works great.
It took one and a half rolls to do both rear doors and both C pillars. One roll weighs about 12 pounds. Now when I shut the rear doors they sound like the bolt action of a rifle seating instead of a car door: there is no hollow sound at all.
There is a slight petroleum smell when you peel the plastic backing off to expose the adhesive as you unroll it, but I can detect no smell whatsoever in the interior of my car and I let it sit out in the sun all day in 80 degree temps just to make sure. If you live in a cold climate you may want to work in a heated garage when you apply it because I'll bet it won't stick too well when it's cold. But you get the same effect for about one tenth the cost of Dynamat and, if you're like me, you want to spend the big money on go-fast and stop-fast goodies.
jakdad
10-19-2004, 03:43 AM
Ear plugs or cotton balls.
Smokie
10-19-2004, 03:55 AM
Just to let you know, the product that looks like a roll of tar that is self-adhesive; when used on vertical surfaces, in time will curl up harden and fall off vertical surfaces, appliance manufacturers have been using this stuff for years and if you are going to use inside doors near moving parts make sure it is secured, don't rely just on the adhesive. It will fail.
Patrick
10-19-2004, 08:07 AM
Just to let you know, the product that looks like a roll of tar that is self-adhesive; when used on vertical surfaces, in time will curl up harden and fall off vertical surfaces, appliance manufacturers have been using this stuff for years and if you are going to use inside doors near moving parts make sure it is secured, don't rely just on the adhesive. It will fail.
Good Advice!!!!!
valleyman
10-19-2004, 04:32 PM
Just to let you know, the product that looks like a roll of tar that is self-adhesive; when used on vertical surfaces, in time will curl up harden and fall off vertical surfaces, appliance manufacturers have been using this stuff for years and if you are going to use inside doors near moving parts make sure it is secured, don't rely just on the adhesive. It will fail.
Thanks for the heads up. Here's hoping it lasts at least a couple of years before I have to stick my head back in those doors.
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