When to switch to synthetics?

[Rider90]

I would like to switch over to synthetic oils but when would be a good time? My car has just over 1k on it. I know some people are hardcore dino and some people are hardcore synthetic but after all the research and data I've heard over the internet and in person I would like to change my dino to synthetic, still unsure of the brand though. How long should I wait before moving from dino to synthetic for the engine oil? ATF? Rear end?

[1 BAD 03 MM]

I would like to switch over to synthetic oils but when would be a good time? My car has just over 1k on it. I know some people are hardcore dino and some people are hardcore synthetic but after all the research and data I've heard over the internet and in person I would like to change my dino to synthetic, still unsure of the brand though. How long should I wait before moving from dino to synthetic for the engine oil? ATF? Rear end?

Try this website and make your determination.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi

[Amsoil_Dealer]

My receommedations as to when to switch;

Engine oil @ 5000 miles.

Trans @ 30000
Rear end @ 30000

You can change anytime but the fluids your car comes with are very good. You might as well get your money's worth.

Don
www.lubedealer.com/dstevens

[RF Overlord]

Rider:

You can switch to synthetic motor oil anytime...if you want a TRUE synth, then pick Mobil 1, AMSOIL, Royal Purple or Redline...other than a handful of boutique oils (read: expensive or hard-to-find), the others that CLAIM to be synthetic are not.

As far as ATF, the factory fill (Mercon V) is a semi-synth and should be good for 15,000 miles if not abused. AMSOIL has a full synth ATF that they claim is Mercon V-compatible, and is fairly popular with the boys over on CVN, but I have no direct experience with it.

For the rear-end, there's no particular advantage in switching to synthetic, unless you're also replacing the gears (do I hear the sound of 4.10s? :D ) or replacing the cover with a girdle...if you're draining the fluid to do either of those, then refilling with synthetic gear lube makes sense.

[Paul T. Casey]

There you have it straight from our resident site synthetic oil guru. I knew Bob would straighten things out, and good to catch you online my friend.

[FastMerc]

This is my experince,I purchased a 1988 Cougar at 3500 miles I changed to Mobil 1 5w-30 AND 250,000 miles later it runs like a champ,no rattles no knocks doesnt blow smoke gas milage is the same.But oil consumption is no more than it was at 3500 miles.Ive recently changed my Marauder to 5w-30 Mobil 1 and I expect the same results.Ive made believers out of a lot of people.PROOF is in the car and the way it performes,but do it as soon as possible after brake in so the motor does not get used to conventional oil.:bows:

[Bigdogjim]

Just remember once you go synthetic their is no going back!

Sooner the better in my book:)

[FastMerc]

Just remember once you go synthetic their is no going back!

Sooner the better in my book:) :cool: I see no reason to go back to conventional oil :beatnik:

[jgc61sr2002]

Just remember once you go synthetic their is no going back!

Sooner the better in my book:)

According to Jr Damato"you can always go back." Where's RF when you need him? :D

[Rider90]

Thanks for the replies fellas. I wasn't sure what to do and I want to give my MM it's first oil change @ 1k so what I've decided is today I bought Mobil dino oil, 5w-30 for colder weather coming up, and when I change the oil tomorrow I will take a sample and send it over to the blackstone labs and see what they have to say. I'm not sure if the engine is fully broken in @ 1k, I think it is all in opinion, but if you've ever seen a blackstone report they'll tell you everything about your engine oil and I'll see what they have to say.

I won't get into what brand I think is better, but today I spent about an hour researching and for those who have done the research you know I'm not close to being done yet :help:

[FordNut]

Thanks for the replies fellas. I wasn't sure what to do and I want to give my MM it's first oil change @ 1k so what I've decided is today I bought Mobil dino oil, 5w-30 for colder weather coming up, and when I change the oil tomorrow I will take a sample and send it over to the blackstone labs and see what they have to say. I'm not sure if the engine is fully broken in @ 1k, I think it is all in opinion, but if you've ever seen a blackstone report they'll tell you everything about your engine oil and I'll see what they have to say.

I won't get into what brand I think is better, but today I spent about an hour researching and for those who have done the research you know I'm not close to being done yet :help:
Warranty requirements are 5w20 synthetic blend. Use dino oil of a heavier weight and take the risk if you like.

[RF Overlord]

I agree with 'Nut...if you're going to use 5W-30, then use a real synthetic...otherwise, Motorcraft 5W-20 at $1.42/qt from Wally World is the way to go...

[Rider90]

I'll stick with experience as far as 5w-30 dino not being suitable for winter, such as 400k+ taxis surviving on 5w-30 in the winter and 20w-50 in the summer. Can't argue with results only opinions but thanks, also how many calls a month do you get from FoMoCo asking what kind of oil you are using? :P

[FordNut]

I'll stick with experience as far as 5w-30 dino not being suitable for winter, such as 400k+ taxis surviving on 5w-30 in the winter and 20w-50 in the summer. Can't argue with results only opinions but thanks, also how many calls a month do you get from FoMoCo asking what kind of oil you are using? :P
They don't ask, but if you have an engine failure you can bet a sample will be sent off for analysis. Taxis do not have the DOHC 32 valve engine.

[Bigdogjim]

:cool: I see no reason to go back to conventional oil :beatnik:


I think some drivers do not undrstand that if you switch back to "regular" oil you can damage the seals. Not a good thing:mad:

[2003_MM_FYRE49]

Thanks for the replies fellas. I wasn't sure what to do and I want to give my MM it's first oil change @ 1k so what I've decided is today I bought Mobil dino oil, 5w-30 for colder weather coming up, and when I change the oil tomorrow I will take a sample and send it over to the blackstone labs and see what they have to say. I'm not sure if the engine is fully broken in @ 1k, I think it is all in opinion, but if you've ever seen a blackstone report they'll tell you everything about your engine oil and I'll see what they have to say.

I won't get into what brand I think is better, but today I spent about an hour researching and for those who have done the research you know I'm not close to being done yet :help:

Rider, just my opinion, but I would wait, if I were you, until I had at least 3000 miles on the clock. Your motor was filled at the factory with break-in oil so everythig seats OK. You may be taking a chance by removing that oil too soon.

[2005Marauder]

This topic came up early--As soon as the MM was released. Steve held a town hall chat on Edmunds.com and said NO to synthetic on the stock Marauder Engine.

Unless Steve or Greg retract that statement, then I'll continue to use regular oil.

Note that I have used synthetic in my Tbird for nearly 4-years.

Found his quote:

stevencory1: Do you suggest the synthetic type oil and when should I add it mileage-wise?

steve_babcock: Greg says there's no reason to use synthetic. Follow your owner's manual for fluids and service intervals. We don't recommend synthetics, sometimes they weep through the seals. There's no reason with the modern electronics to use synthetics."


Here is link to entire chat. Really pumped me up back in June of 2002.


http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/chat/transcripts/mercmarauderchattranscript0606 02.html

[RF Overlord]

Your motor was filled at the factory with break-in oil

Tim:

No disrespect intended, but that's not true...there's no such thing as "break-in" oil any more...modern motors don't need it...the factory-fill is Conoco Hydroclear® 5W-20 synthetic blend...

[rayjay]

Thanks for the replies fellas. I wasn't sure what to do and I want to give my MM it's first oil change @ 1k so what I've decided is today I bought Mobil dino oil, 5w-30 for colder weather coming up, and when I change the oil tomorrow I will take a sample and send it over to the blackstone labs and see what they have to say. I'm not sure if the engine is fully broken in @ 1k, I think it is all in opinion, but if you've ever seen a blackstone report they'll tell you everything about your engine oil and I'll see what they have to say.

I won't get into what brand I think is better, but today I spent about an hour researching and for those who have done the research you know I'm not close to being done yet :help:
Just my :twocents: , I spoke with a instructor in the Ford Assest program right after I bought my MM in July. His advise was to change out the oil at 500 miles. Stated that he been to the St Thomas plant and if I saw what he'd seen, I wouldn't need to ask. Another friend that builds engines for a hobby said the same thing, change the oil out at 500 miles, refill with the factory recommended dino oil for the 1st 5-6k miles. So at 6k I'll switch to Amsoil 5w20 for the winter, then Royal Purple 5w20 for the summer. I'd use Mobil 1 for the winter, but when I used their 0w20 in a Focus, I didn't like the noise that was coming from the engine bay. It was like water when I changed it out.

[Amsoil_Dealer]

[QUOTE=rayjay]So at 6k I'll switch to Amsoil 5w20 for the winter, then Royal Purple 5w20 for the summer. /QUOTE]

What is the logic behind this? Frankly I think the differences between brands of 5W20 is imperceptible.

Don

[Amsoil_Dealer]

I think some drivers do not undrstand that if you switch back to "regular" oil you can damage the seals. Not a good thing:mad:


Sorry Big Dog, I mean no disrespect but this statement and "never go back" statement are myths that go back the to the 70's. With modern synthetics and synthetic blends, one can switch back and forth with no worries.

Also, RF is dead on that the factory fill Motorcraft 5W20 is a synthetic blend made by Conoco. The definition of synthetic blend is partial dino, partial synthetic so obviously the two fluids are compatible.

I was surprised to see steve Bacock's comments that synthetcis are not necesary when the factory fill oil is a synthetic blend, the factory fill ATF is a synthetic blend, and the factory fill rear gear lube is full synthetic. Even the project manager doesn't know. What's up with that?

Don

[FastMerc]

OK GUYS,Afriend of mine used to run a Mobil 1 Station when they were still in this area.Rep was there with a video and I saw a test most people dont see.It made a believer out of me.I run the same grade year round with no problems.Once your engine and seals are used to syns,stay with it.Ive seen motors that were switched to syns,after 40.000 miles on conventional and the seals blew.This will happen.:argue:

[rayjay]

[QUOTE=rayjay]So at 6k I'll switch to Amsoil 5w20 for the winter, then Royal Purple 5w20 for the summer. /QUOTE]

What is the logic behind this? Frankly I think the differences between brands of 5W20 is imperceptible.

Don
No sense in running what is supposed to be performance motor oil in the winter where I live.