Results from Exhaust & Dyno/Tune

[Smokie]

Some of you may recall a time when I posted about the possibility of getting my car to 300 hp by adding new exhaust & dyno/tune; at that time my car was making 264 hp/289 tq to the ground. Well, to get to the point....I was sooooo wrong!!!! Not even close.

I have installed SVO shorty's, high-flow cats, x-pipe and 18'' magnaflows, all pipe is 2.5'' in diameter, also U/D pulleys.

Before: Reinhart flash, cooler stat and plugs.
264 hp / 289 ft-tq.

After: Exhaust, intake spacer and Steeda U/D's.
278 hp / 303 ft-tq.

After Dyno/Tuning:
281 hp / 306 ft-tq.

Typical Stock MM:
240 hp / 260 ft-tq

From stock I have gained about 41 hp/46 tq to the ground.
These numbers will not impress those members that already drive S/C cars or cars that are more heavily modified, but they may be of interest to owners of stock vehicles because these gains make vehicle bolt from a dead start and the stock tires cannot maintain traction if you hit the throttle hard.

My path to 41/46 gains:

Complete exhaust.
Dyno Tune.
Intake Spacer.
Steeda U/D. pulleys.
Cooler Stat and Plugs.

I hope this info is helpful to some members, if you don't see it listed here I don't have it, the rest of vehicle is 100% O.E.M. The cost of what I paid for the listed items installed is about $1620.



Disclaimer: Your results may vary, your cost may be more or less.

[RF Overlord]

Excellent job, Javier... have a banana :banana: 46 ft-lbs for $1620 is a bargain...especially for a motor that's internally stock...

[jgc61sr2002]

Javier - Congrats the #'s sound good to me. :D :up:

[Marauder]

Nice numbers from fairly simple mods. I wonder what 4.10 gears would add for your acceleration and tire smoking. :D

[Smokie]

Nice numbers from fairly simple mods. I wonder what 4.10 gears would add for your acceleration. :DWithout a doubt they would improve my 60 ft times but I do enjoy my long cruises at lower rpm's, with exhaust, lower rpm's translate into quieter cabin....I like quiet when I'm cruising.:)

[RF Overlord]

It took me a while to find a shop I trust, but I kick myself in the butt for not doing the 4.10s sooner...DO IT! This car NEEDS them...and there's essentially no MPG penalty, assuming you don't drive like a moron...

[Glenn]

MY HP gains are similar. My results as of 10/16/04 are 281 RWHP and 297 RWTR. The performance mods are: UDP, plugs, Stat, SCTune, PI TC, FR shorty headers, Cobra X-pipe and hi-flow cats, with the stock mufflers and tail pipes. The MM also has 4:10 gears which I have been told lower the dyno HP. Next mod may be the electric water pump for 10 HP. Next year I hope to hit 300 RWHP.

I currently have a full size car that jumps (in my mind) from a standing start and provides a good deal of performance and enjoyment. It also handles very well with the suspension mods. I am pleased with my MM. All thanks to Team Ford for an outstanding job.

Glenn

[FordNut]

... assuming you don't drive like a moron...
I resemble that remark...

[hitchhiker]

Some of you may recall a time when I posted about the possibility of getting my car to 300 hp by adding new exhaust & dyno/tune; at that time my car was making 264 hp/289 tq to the ground. Well, to get to the point....I was sooooo wrong!!!! Not even close.

I have installed SVO shorty's, high-flow cats, x-pipe and 18'' magnaflows, all pipe is 2.5'' in diameter, also U/D pulleys.

Before: Reinhart flash, cooler stat and plugs.
264 hp / 289 ft-tq.

After: Exhaust, intake spacer and Steeda U/D's.
278 hp / 303 ft-tq.

After Dyno/Tuning:
281 hp / 306 ft-tq.

Typical Stock MM:
240 hp / 260 ft-tq

From stock I have gained about 41 hp/46 tq to the ground.
These numbers will not impress those members that already drive S/C cars or cars that are more heavily modified, but they may be of interest to owners of stock vehicles because these gains make vehicle bolt from a dead start and the stock tires cannot maintain traction if you hit the throttle hard.

My path to 41/46 gains:

Complete exhaust.
Intake Spacer.
Steeda U/D. pulleys.
Cooler Stat and Plugs.

I hope this info is helpful to some members, if you don't see it listed here I don't have it, the rest of vehicle is 100% O.E.M. The cost of what I paid for the listed items intalled is about $1620.



Disclaimer: Your results may vary, your cost may be more or less.

Good numbers!

Can you tell me a little detail about the intake spacer?

Are you planning on adding the chip or tuner?

Thanks,

David

[klmore]

It took me a while to find a shop I trust, but I kick myself in the butt for not doing the 4.10s sooner...DO IT! This car NEEDS them...and there's essentially no MPG penalty, assuming you don't drive like a moron...
RF is right 4.10s do make a huge difference and if your light footed it's not bad on gas. My car sucks gas because I do drive like a moron.:)

[Smokie]

Good numbers!

Can you tell me a little detail about the intake spacer?

Are you planning on adding the chip or tuner?

Thanks,

David
The spacer is the PHP intake spacer, I won at Indy, so it was a no cost mod. to me. I installed myself in about an hour. I cannot say I felt a difference after install, my wife is sure that it improved throttle response after a cold start, she drives car early in the morning, I don't.

I believe that there are two benefits to spacer, the obvious is it increases the air volume of the plenum and it lowers the temp. of the upper plenum cover (I measured) My thoughts are, in combination with improved exhaust it promotes greater intake capacity so more air=more power.

No chips, PCM virgin untouched. Programming and tuner that stores several programs including stock program. I hope this is helpful.:)

[prchrman]

Hey Javier, good info and good numbers, someday these changes with 4.10s is what I am going to do. thanks willie

[Smokie]

Hey Javier, good info and good numbers, someday these changes with 4.10s is what I am going to do. thanks willieHey Willie ! While at Team Ford, I saw a couple of MM's having 4:10's installed, good place to go if you are not comfortable with your local choices.:)

[TAF]

Uh...you forgot about the "bling' you added to the engine bay.... ;)

[Smokie]

Uh...you forgot about the "bling' you added to the engine bay.... ;)No, I didn't forget. I also didn't add the actual tuner. I was trying to provide a snapshot of the actual changes that resulted in hp. changes, I did not add the cost of bling or things I did myself or did not cost me money, that is why I think it will be more helpful to others to look at what I changed to improve performance...what I paid is probably not very relevant because I only added my cost, for items that improved performance....no bling included.:D

[Patrick]

Great #'s Smokie!!!! :high5: :high5:

[Haggis]

Congrats Javier, nice numbers. Good luck getting to 300rwhp.

[Marauderman]

Hey Friend---I want to know your thoughts on your ride back--remember!!!..........well..... any fun run-ins???.....Tom

[Smokie]

Getting to 300 hp.....what a reality check....can't say I was not warned.

I uploaded the before and after dyno numbers that may help to illustrate what a stock owner could expect to gain from the flash or chip Dennis sells with cooler stat & plugs.

Typical Stock MM : 240 hp / 260 tq.
Flash/Stat/Plugs : 264 hp / 289 tq.
Improvement : +24 hp /+29 tq*

The after dyno shows the gains after adding complete exhaust, u/d pulleys, intake spacer and the result of custom dyno tuning.

Before : 264 hp / 289 tq.
After : 281 hp / 306 tq.
Gains : +17hp / +17 tq.*

What I consider the most signicant results are not the peak gains...they are not massive. However I have about 250 ft/tq to the ground starting at about 1500 rpms and all the way to 5900 rpms. That is why my car now pushes against my back so much harder when I hit the throttle. Horsepower reaches 250 at about 3700 rpm's and remains above that mark to the end of the pull.:)


* Your results may vary.

[2003_MM_FYRE49]

The spacer is the PHP intake spacer, I won at Indy, so it was a no cost mod. to me. I installed myself in about an hour. I cannot say I felt a difference after install, my wife is sure that it improved throttle response after a cold start, she drives car early in the morning, I don't.

I believe that there are two benefits to spacer, the obvious is it increases the air volume of the plenum and it lowers the temp. of the upper plenum cover (I measured) My thoughts are, in combination with improved exhaust it promotes greater intake capacity so more air=more power.

No chips, PCM virgin untouched. Programming and tuner that stores several programs including stock program. I hope this is helpful.:)

Smokie, I am not familiar with PHP. I know you won this spacer but can you tell us who makes it, and where it is available from? Thanks in advance.

[Mike Poore]

assuming you don't drive like a moron...But, RF, isn't it why we bought these cars in the first place?:woohoo:

[Smokie]

Smokie, I am not familiar with PHP. I know you won this spacer but can you tell us who makes it, and where it is available from? Thanks in advance.I thought PHP was a supporting vendor, not so sure anymore.
here is a link that might help:CLICK (http://www.paulshp.com/)

[Smokie]

Hey Friend---I want to know your thoughts on your ride back--remember!!!..........well..... any fun run-ins???.....TomHey Tom, the ride back was uneventful except for an instance when I was passing a vehicle doing 80, I turned off O/D, dropped to 3rd and pressed the throttle about 2/3 of the way down; what I expected was a gradual increase in speed in 3rd gear...what I got was a downshift to 2nd...a kick in the back and the car bolted to 100 much faster than I expected. Actually it startled me and made me grin....I'm still grinning.




Not trying to glamorize going over the limit, it happened.
Your results may vary.

[John F. Russo]

Some of you may recall a time when I posted about the possibility of getting my car to 300 hp by adding new exhaust & dyno/tune; at that time my car was making 264 hp/289 tq to the ground. Well, to get to the point....I was sooooo wrong!!!! Not even close.

I have installed SVO shorty's, high-flow cats, x-pipe and 18'' magnaflows, all pipe is 2.5'' in diameter, also U/D pulleys.

Before: Reinhart flash, cooler stat and plugs.
264 hp / 289 ft-tq.

After: Exhaust, intake spacer and Steeda U/D's.
278 hp / 303 ft-tq.

After Dyno/Tuning:
281 hp / 306 ft-tq.

Typical Stock MM:
240 hp / 260 ft-tq

From stock I have gained about 41 hp/46 tq to the ground.
These numbers will not impress those members that already drive S/C cars or cars that are more heavily modified, but they may be of interest to owners of stock vehicles because these gains make vehicle bolt from a dead start and the stock tires cannot maintain traction if you hit the throttle hard.

My path to 41/46 gains:

Complete exhaust.
Dyno Tune.
Intake Spacer.
Steeda U/D. pulleys.
Cooler Stat and Plugs.

I hope this info is helpful to some members, if you don't see it listed here I don't have it, the rest of vehicle is 100% O.E.M. The cost of what I paid for the listed items installed is about $1620.


Disclaimer: Your results may vary, your cost may be more or less.

Are your numbers rear wheel hp and tq?

[Smokie]

Are your numbers rear wheel hp and tq?.......Yes.

[John F. Russo]

MY HP gains are similar. My results as of 10/16/04 are 281 RWHP and 297 RWTR. The performance mods are: UDP, plugs, Stat, SCTune, PI TC, FR shorty headers, Cobra X-pipe and hi-flow cats, with the stock mufflers and tail pipes. The MM also has 4:10 gears which I have been told lower the dyno HP. Next mod may be the electric water pump for 10 HP. Next year I hope to hit 300 RWHP.

I currently have a full size car that jumps (in my mind) from a standing start and provides a good deal of performance and enjoyment. It also handles very well with the suspension mods. I am pleased with my MM. All thanks to Team Ford for an outstanding job.

Glenn

You'll get an adder of 10 hp just changing from the OEM water pump to and electric? Are you sure and at what cost?

[Smokie]

John, my personal experience has been that the HP increases claimed for different bolt-ons do not add up as in 2+2=4.

If you have product A: adds 10 hp, product B: adds 5 and product C: adds 15 hp. You install all 3 and you will not gain 30 hp...I speak from my own experience.

[TAF]

John, my personal experience has been that the HP increases claimed for different bolt-ons do not add up as in 2+2=4.

If you have product A: adds 10 hp, product B: adds 5 and product C: adds 15 hp. You install all 3 and you will not gain 30 hp...I speak from my own experience.
But what also must be kept in mind is...the use of different Dynos can affect expected gains. i.e. was Smokie REALLY at 264 RWHP that he got on the portable Dyno at Indy....as well....is the Team Ford Dyno REALLY as accurate as it can be with the 281 RWHP. It can be a little misleading when you go from machine to machine.....weather conditions to weather conditions (even with SAE corrected numbers).

Using the same equipment to monitor "mod affect' on RWHP is the only way to get as close as possible to "true" gains.

Not meant as a slam at Smokie, the dyno used at Indy or the in-ground dyno at Team Ford....but just a fact.

[TAF]

You'll get an adder of 10 hp just changing from the OEM water pump to and electric? Are you sure and at what cost?
Yes...there have been SEVERAL Southern Marauder members that experienced this type of gain with the waterpump....doing back/back - before/after dynos on the same dyno machine.

[FordNut]

You'll get an adder of 10 hp just changing from the OEM water pump to and electric? Are you sure and at what cost?
Actually I did before and after pulls and got 12 hp. Cost is around $350 plus install.

[Smokie]

) Using the same equipment to monitor "mod affect' on RWHP is the only way to get as close as possible to "true" gains.I agree, even with correction, there is no substitute for using the same dyno for all before & after. The dyno in the seat of my pants tells me that the work done to my car in Atlanta was a major significant power gain.:D

[FordNut]

I agree, even with correction, there is no substitute for using the same dyno for all before & after. The dyno in the seat of my pants tells me that the work done to my car in Atlanta was a major significant power gain.:D
Let's see your new track times! You're surely going to try it out next weekend, aren't you?

[Smokie]

Let's see your new track times! You're surely going to try it out next weekend, aren't you?November the 20th.:D Maybe I can be as fast as you and your wife this time.....:lol:

[MERCMAN]

Congrats Javier, you and I are getting close with the same mods :) I am considering the water pump, which will put me up over 300hp, but I am also watching the Procharger thread VERY carefully, if they price is "right" on that,, I will go for it :)

[Smokie]

Congrats Javier, you and I are getting close with the same mods :) I am considering the water pump, which will put me up over 300hp, but I am also watching the Procharger thread VERY carefully, if they price is "right" on that,, I will go for it :)Thanks Dan, I am very happy with results. I'm not hard to please so it may be awhile before anything changes....unless I come into an unexpected large sum....donations are accepted.:lol:

[Patrick]

Thanks Dan, I am very happy with results. I'm not hard to please so it may be awhile before anything changes....unless I come into an unexpected large sum....donations are accepted.:lol:

I can post date a check.......
:twocents: :lol:

[Smokie]

Getting to 300 hp.....what a reality check....can't say I was not warned.

I uploaded the before and after dyno numbers that may help to illustrate what a stock owner could expect to gain from the flash or chip Dennis sells with cooler stat & plugs.

Typical Stock MM : 240 hp / 260 tq.
Flash/Stat/Plugs : 264 hp / 289 tq.
Improvement : +24 hp /+29 tq*

The after dyno shows the gains after adding complete exhaust, u/d pulleys, intake spacer and the result of custom dyno tuning.

Before : 264 hp / 289 tq.
After : 281 hp / 306 tq.
Gains : +17hp / +17 tq.*

What I consider the most signicant results are not the peak gains...they are not massive. However I have about 250 ft/tq to the ground starting at about 1500 rpms and all the way to 5900 rpms. That is why my car now pushes against my back so much harder when I hit the throttle. Horsepower reaches 250 at about 3700 rpm's and remains above that mark to the end of the pull.:)


* Your results may vary.Just wanted to point out that the gains with the Reinhart flash are estimated based on average numbers for a stock MM. I never had the opportunity to dyno my car in stock trim.:)

[Bowtie]

Smokie,

I like the way the mods really cleaned up the hp curve.
You mentioned the noticeable SOTP gains in the lower rpm's; the power you picked up above the peak is impressive too, and will also show up in your timeslips provided your shift points are high enough to take advantage of it.
To be honest, the "before" hp curve didn't look too healthy with all the dips and bobbles. Anybody know if that is typical for near stock? Or was it the dyno?
[Edit: Never mind. I just saw the reason for the erratic low rpm performance - terribly lean below 4k on the stock tune, and overall a poor fuel curve]

Keep pushing it. Attention to detail picked up about 80 rwhp on my car with bolt-on mods only. And like yours, the gains above and below peak were most noticeable. It now pulls strongly to 5800 rpm, which is rare in Impalas with the stock cam.

:2thumbs: :2thumbs:

See ya at SSHS4

[SouLRioT]

Uh...you forgot about the "bling' you added to the engine bay.... ;)


Smokie, so what did you get? I was waiting to see if you were going to post about it, but haven't seen it yet.

[SergntMac]

John, my personal experience has been that the HP increases claimed for different bolt-ons do not add up as in 2+2=4. If you have product A: adds 10 hp, product B: adds 5 and product C: adds 15 hp. You install all 3 and you will not gain 30 hp.
Very true Javier, we somtimes lose sight of that. Moreover, there are some mods that will not show any changes on a dyno, but suprise the Hell out of you on the race track.

It can be a little misleading when you go from machine to machine.....weather conditions to weather conditions (even with SAE corrected numbers). Using the same equipment to monitor "mod affect' on RWHP is the only way to get as close as possible to "true" gains.
More truth...If you're doing a long term project, the use of one test tool is imperative. This is one of the reasons the DynoJet is most popular, it's overall consistency is very high.

To be honest, the "before" hp curve didn't look too healthy with all the dips and bobbles. Anybody know if that is typical for near stock? Or was it the dyno?[Edit: Never mind. I just saw the reason for the erratic low rpm performance - terribly lean below 4k on the stock tune, and overall a poor fuel curve]
WinPep software has a "smoothing" feature for displaying the power curve in a graph, but the appearance of erratic changes can be monitored in the column and row report. Both features are operator selectable, and may have been turned off in Indy. Once the pull has been saved to disk, there are many options for display. A good printer is as important as tire pressure in getting an accurate dyno.

[Smokie]

Smokie,

I like the way the mods really cleaned up the hp curve.
You mentioned the noticeable SOTP gains in the lower rpm's; the power you picked up above the peak is impressive too, and will also show up in your timeslips provided your shift points are high enough to take advantage of it.
To be honest, the "before" hp curve didn't look too healthy with all the dips and bobbles. Anybody know if that is typical for near stock? Or was it the dyno?
[Edit: Never mind. I just saw the reason for the erratic low rpm performance - terribly lean below 4k on the stock tune, and overall a poor fuel curve]

Keep pushing it. Attention to detail picked up about 80 rwhp on my car with bolt-on mods only. And like yours, the gains above and below peak were most noticeable. It now pulls strongly to 5800 rpm, which is rare in Impalas with the stock cam.

:2thumbs: :2thumbs:

See ya at SSHS4Thanks Pat, the car does feel much stronger, may sound funny but I don't know the limit of my shift points yet, drove 500 miles home after tune, went back to work (company vehicle) so until the weekend won't know.
If is any indication, something in my shifting is different...went to change lanes at about 80, dropped out of O/D into 3rd, pressed throttle 2/3 way down; I expected gradual speed increase in 3rd...instead it dropped to 2nd and bolted to 100 before shifting back to 3rd...very, very fast.


Forgot: The reason the before graph is so funky looking at lower rpm's is because operator was feathering throttle to prevent downshift, in the after the converter was locked and tranny was told not to shift.:D

[Smokie]

Smokie, so what did you get? I was waiting to see if you were going to post about it, but haven't seen it yet.Pictures are coming.....:D

[Amsoil_Dealer]

It took me a while to find a shop I trust, but I kick myself in the butt for not doing the 4.10s sooner...DO IT! This car NEEDS them...and there's essentially no MPG penalty, assuming you don't drive like a moron...

C'mon - No affect of MPG? What gear does the stock Marauder have?

My Cv LX Sport has a 3:27 open and I get about 22mpg (hwy) on regular gas. I drive 4000 miles per month so a few MPG makes a big difference to me.

Don

[John F. Russo]

Yes...there have been SEVERAL Southern Marauder members that experienced this type of gain with the waterpump....doing back/back - before/after dynos on the same dyno machine.


Technically speaking there is a confidence limit on the result essentially any machine (for example a dyno) that produces a number. This can be calculated by repeating the same test for at least three times. This will yield numbers that are most likely different. One repeats this with the mod change. Then one does a "t-test" (statistical analysis term) that will give you a good idea whether the difference, if any, is truly and effect of the mod or not. The greater the number of repeat tests the more ceretain the confidence of the conclusion. For practical purposes three tests would be sufficient.

I wonder if any of those who did the test before and after the mod change did this?

[SergntMac]

Technically speaking there is a confidence limit on the result essentially any machine (for example a dyno) that produces a number. This can be calculated by repeating the same test for at least three times. This will yield numbers that are most likely different. One repeats this with the mod change. Then one does a "t-test" (statistical analysis term) that will give you a good idea whether the difference, if any, is truly and effect of the mod or not. The greater the number of repeat tests the more ceretain the confidence of the conclusion. For practical purposes three tests would be sufficient.
Three pulls is my usual routine when I test mods that may get posted here. When I post them, it will appear as one "before" and one "after" set of RW numbers, but each number is an average of three pulls. If I'm just goofing around for my own benefit, I may do more.

I must have over 100 pulls on my MM by now, and only once have I seen any numbers duplicated in back to back pulls. That would be RWTQ of 399. BTW, yes, it is very hard to get the MM to pull in third gear only from low RPM without downshifting on a dyno.

[Paul T. Casey]

I'm in the same boat as Don (Amsoil Dealer) with the miles driven. With the stock gears, I average 24 -26 on the highway. The higher numbers are actually at higher speeds. 72 to 77 seems to be the best for mileage. I wonder if this is a number I can repeat by "driving the tach" or, if it's just the optimal for the set up I have. i.e. 75 mph is better because xxx rpm's more requires less extra fuel than xx distance at lower speed would result. As for Smokies results, I stuck around till the end. If nothing else, I was very impressed with Aric, tweaking out a few more ponies from an already flashed car, especially at the end of a stressful day. He did a lot of work on a lot of cars, and the last one got just as good work as the first. Truely a professional.

[CRUZTAKER]

Very cool to hear you digging into the car Mr. X. :up:

You should be proud at Bradanton M.S. when you see your new numbers. Soon you will realize...it's all about the hook up. Don't throw away those old worn rear tires, save them for the track. They'll be better than nothing.

Good luck, and enjoy!

[FordNut]

November the 20th.:D Maybe I can be as fast as you and your wife this time.....:lol:
Surely you can't wait that long...SSHS4 is Nov 6th! Be there!

[maraudernkc]

The 4:10 took me from 70MPH@2400RPM

Stock 3:55 70MPH@2100RPM

I love the bottom end and it is not loud on the highway but my exhaust is stock.



Without a doubt they would improve my 60 ft times but I do enjoy my long cruises at lower rpm's, with exhaust, lower rpm's translate into quieter cabin....I like quiet when I'm cruising.:)

[Smokie]

As for Smokies results, I stuck around till the end. If nothing else, I was very impressed with Aric, tweaking out a few more ponies from an already flashed car, especially at the end of a stressful day. He did a lot of work on a lot of cars, and the last one got just as good work as the first. Truely a professional.I agree Paul, Aric cleaned up my A/F ratio when he noticed that I was at 11.5 between 2000 and 2500 rpms' I now have a very clean 13 that is nearly a flat line from 1600 to 6400 rpm's. I don't want to make too much of this but on the way home I got 25.3 MPG. I have never once done better than 24.1 in 27 months of ownership.

Maybe it is simply a coincidence but the RPM range he cleaned up is exactly the range I use when highway cruising, so yes Aric does knows what he is doing and he is very professional.

[QWK SVT]

Technically speaking there is a confidence limit on the result essentially any machine (for example a dyno) that produces a number. This can be calculated by repeating the same test for at least three times. This will yield numbers that are most likely different. One repeats this with the mod change. Then one does a "t-test" (statistical analysis term) that will give you a good idea whether the difference, if any, is truly and effect of the mod or not. The greater the number of repeat tests the more ceretain the confidence of the conclusion. For practical purposes three tests would be sufficient.

I wonder if any of those who did the test before and after the mod change did this?
Hmm... Fan of Minitab, are we? :coolman:

"Wow! That guy spends all day, plugging through data. What a worker!"

[03SILVERSTREAK]

Some of you may recall a time when I posted about the possibility of getting my car to 300 hp by adding new exhaust & dyno/tune; at that time my car was making 264 hp/289 tq to the ground. Well, to get to the point....I was sooooo wrong!!!! Not even close.

I have installed SVO shorty's, high-flow cats, x-pipe and 18'' magnaflows, all pipe is 2.5'' in diameter, also U/D pulleys.

Before: Reinhart flash, cooler stat and plugs.
264 hp / 289 ft-tq.

After: Exhaust, intake spacer and Steeda U/D's.
278 hp / 303 ft-tq.

After Dyno/Tuning:
281 hp / 306 ft-tq.

Typical Stock MM:
240 hp / 260 ft-tq

From stock I have gained about 41 hp/46 tq to the ground.
These numbers will not impress those members that already drive S/C cars or cars that are more heavily modified, but they may be of interest to owners of stock vehicles because these gains make vehicle bolt from a dead start and the stock tires cannot maintain traction if you hit the throttle hard.

My path to 41/46 gains:

Complete exhaust.
Dyno Tune.
Intake Spacer.
Steeda U/D. pulleys.
Cooler Stat and Plugs.

I hope this info is helpful to some members, if you don't see it listed here I don't have it, the rest of vehicle is 100% O.E.M. The cost of what I paid for the listed items installed is about $1620.



Disclaimer: Your results may vary, your cost may be more or less.Great numbers. I had mine dynoed and for the exception of the intake spacer you have , which I am having installed this comming week and the 4.10 Gears you don't have , the results are-289 HP and 296 FT-TQ . Im looking foward to see the results with the intake spacer installed. :rock::banana2: