Vibration in the back from the Sub

[Digital Man]

I would assume that when the bass is cranked using the factory system that there would be some vibration, however even at the half way mark I get a very annoying vibration that seems to be coming from panel above the rear seats. Does anyone else experiance this?

2004 MM BB, 6CD-changer, moon roof, etc....

Thanks.

[Mike Poore]

I get a very annoying vibration that seems to be coming from panel above the rear seats. Does anyone else experiance this? 2004 MM BB, 6CD-changer, moon roof, etc....
Thanks.
Moon Roof? I think it's still a Wabasto unit, and the factory guys have a history of butchering the installation. I have experience. If it's a Wabasto unit, and you think it could be involved, contact them; they'll be very helpful.

[Captain Steve]

I would assume that when the bass is cranked using the factory system that there would be some vibration, however even at the half way mark I get a very annoying vibration that seems to be coming from panel above the rear seats. Does anyone else experiance this?

2004 MM BB, 6CD-changer, moon roof, etc....

Thanks.
I get it too, I have to be carefull with any music with alot of bass. It seems to me that the sub is putting too much power out for the volume level the head unit is set at... like it's at 100% volume when the rest of the speakers are at 50%..

[Hack Goby]

This was a common problem with the 03`s and a lot of 04`s but nobody has said anything about it for a while so it`s like a new thread agian.Do a search and you will find out it`s a fairly easy fix.Good Luck

[Constable]

I just fixed mine... again. Get in your trunk and remove the four bolts (or nuts... i forget) that hold the sub box against the underside of the package tray. Also be sure to disconnect the wire harnesses. Drop the box down and get it out of the way. There should be studs hanging down that are attached to the metal frame of the package tray. Tighten these studs as much as you can and use some loc-tite on 'em so they don't loosen up. Next, use some vacuum hose to make four rubber o-rings. Slide these onto the studs / bolts so that they sit in between the package tray and the box. Finally, install the box and use some more loc-tite to keep those fasteners secure. Now, enjoy your rattle-free subwoofer!!

[rookie1]

I would assume that when the bass is cranked using the factory system that there would be some vibration, however even at the half way mark I get a very annoying vibration that seems to be coming from panel above the rear seats. Does anyone else experiance this?

2004 MM BB, 6CD-changer, moon roof, etc....

Thanks.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10713&highlight=subwoofer+vibration

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=7074&highlight=subwoofer+vibration

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=9636&highlight=subwoofer+vibration

[Stephen Soulsby]

I had that exact problem. It wasn't the sub box that rattled, but instead the pannel behind the rear seat was vibrating against the rear windshield and the body. I got some Dynomat from Circuit City or Best Buy and cut it into 2" wide strips. Then I folded it in half and stuck it in the crack where the windshield meets the body from one end all the way to the other. One half sticking to the windshield, and the other sticking to the body. Reinstall the rear trim pannel and the rattling was gone. Here is a pic I borrowed from the gallery to show where to apply the dynomat.

[Digital Man]

Well, in my case it is definitly caused by the panel covering the sub. If I place my hand on the panel to prevent the panel from vibrating it stops.:cool: So what does that mean for me? Remove the sub via the trunk and then remove some foam or something?

Thanks....

[Stephen Soulsby]

Well, in my case it is definitly caused by the panel covering the sub. If I place my hand on the panel to prevent the panel from vibrating it stops.:cool: So what does that mean for me? Remove the sub via the trunk and then remove some foam or something?

Thanks....
That's exactly how mine was. Put your hand on it and it went away. The foam is there to protect the sub from particles getting in, and to keep the cone from over extending itself. Not 100% necessary, but I left mine in. I figured if it wasn't needed, they wouldn't have installed it. Try the dynomat in the places I showed in the picture, it should solve your problem. When I took it to Ford, they ordered a new sub even though there was obviously nothing wrong with it. That's why I fixed it myself.

[CRUZTAKER]

I did all of the suggested fixes nearly two years ago now.....found that my 300A has some bad body welds in the metal parts that join in the package shelf area to the rear window pillars.

It has never been fixed....and never will. Those mechs at L/M aren't getting anywhere near my Marauder with mig welder.:cool:

[David Morton]

I found a very good way to eliminate this kind of noise is to move stuff and try to duplicate the condition. When you can't make it do it again, you've found the cause. Then it's a matter of figuring out what the real culprit is.

My L/M techs did something with the "rear shelf package" and got some of it, but I was treated badly so I got into it myself and found the sound deadening material on the shelf had foam on one side but none on the top side and found this hard rubber material was smacking against the hard shelf cover bottom. So I folded it down under the seat and the noise went away. (I'll return that when I get some thin foam matt to put on top of it cause I get a lot of road noise coming up from the trunk when the radio isn't on, which isn't often.) Then I got one at high volume only at a certain frequency and it's coming from the lip that sticks out from the bottom of the rear window rubber and spans the gap over to the trunk lid. It's smacking the trunk lid and I'd cut it off but I'm more worried that I might get water intrusion into the trunk under the heavy downpours that are frequent here. If I come up with something, I'll let you guys know.

[rookie1]

The simplest way to eliminate this rattle is to junk the factory sub enclosure and all and go with an aftermarket set up. For those who don't want to go this route there are a couple options.

Remove the sub enclosure and put 2 layers of Dynamat(or other similar product, I'm partial to Dynamat and Brown Bread) on the underside of the rear deck where the enclosure is mounted then remount it. I used dynamat on both sides of the parcel shelf and it eliminated most of the problem b4 I junked the factory sub entirely.
The other rattle enhancer is the chmsl, Cut some of Dynamat you have left over and put a strip across the top(horizontally) of the Chmsl where it can contact the window.
If these 2 things don't eliminate it , get some cheap foam rubber and place it underneath the interior parcel shelf and sink some extra screws into the lip behind the top of the back seat where the factory put the 2 plastic fasteners when remounting.

Lastly the factory sub seems to have a strong resonance near 100hz that the mounting area is susceptible to. After I went aftermarket I crossed over my new sub at 60 hz and all remainig rattles disappeared.

GOOD LUCK.

[DEFYANT]

Thanks, I have the same problem. I had to go bact to the dealer for an unrelated problem and mentioned it to the service manager. I said he never heard of this problem before! Now I see this has been going on since the car came out? I hope this is not an indication of the problems I will have with this dealers service dept.

[BruteForce]

nevermind - wrong post