Rust Protection?

[QWK SVT]

Well, it's starting to get late in the year... I know some are getting ready to put their MM's away, but I am not. Mine is an all year vehicle, but will se the garage as much as possible. The keep the car looking it's best, for years to come I think I should do something to protect it from rust, but what? I know of only the three options:

The black guck (tar) - I'm not too keen on this, and think it looks awful
The pink oil - drip-drip for a little while, and I wouldn't be keeping the car in my garage for a week. Also leaves a filmy/greasy residue, which I'm not terribly fond of.
The electronic modules - I'm skeptical. Do they work? Really?
So, what does everyone else do, to prevent rust? One of the above, or something else?

[CRUZTAKER]

I worked in the rust proofing industry when I was 17. The spray on / in type stuff.

Don't do it! Over the years, moisture and salt get in behind the coating and stays there. Usually hidden, the damage doesn't become apparent until the metal is soft and rusted through.

I do not have a solution for you, just an educated suggestion....don't undercoat.

[the_pack_rat]

[/list]So, what does everyone else do, to prevent rust? One of the above, or something else?

I try to not smooze around with Marty's girlfriends.

Eric

[GordonB]

Last new car I rustproofed was my 1984 Olds 98 that I still have and have driven for 21 yrs thru the slop and yuck of winter. Did AutoArmor, but I think they are out of business.
The non-abraded surfaces (inside frame, interiors of doors and trunk insides were done with a type of googy slightly tanish/cream creepy waxy substance that was sprayed on with a 360 degree nozzle that came out all around the sides of the nozzle, not out the end of the nozzle. IMHO that stuff really worked.
The outside stuff, the black stuff, unless it is some kind of spray-on like polyurethane, a la Rhino Lining, I would cnsider it useless.
So real question. does a good rustproffing outfit still exist in 2004???
Is Ziebart still doing rustproofing? Is it any good?
BTW, I'd like to get 2 done at least on the INSIDE of doors, trunks, frames, at least!!!

GordonB

[89VERT]

Living on the west coast ( no salt or snow ) we don't really have much interest in rust proofing ,but check Ziebart's web site :

http://www.ziebart.com/prodServicesMain.htm

[the_pack_rat]

Ok - I might have been screwing around earlier with my reply ...

But in MY experience ...

A "So-called" rustproofing treatment can be JUST as HARMFUL to a car then NOTHING.

What often happens with these so-called rust preventitive coatings is ...

These "so-called" coatings OFTEN crack & break up - which then creates "pockets" along the frame/bottom of the car.

Stuff gets in these cracks - & starts rusting things OUT.

Just BEWARE !!!.

Eric.

[MENINBLK]

Save all the money you saved by washing you car by hand during the summer, for the winter.

Use the money at your local MANUAL CAR WASH and spray the entire bottom of your car with water
at least once a week after the snow starts falling and the salt makes its way to your streets.

You'll have to do this the entire winter, until the first spring rain washes away
all of the salt from the streets and the potholes begin to appear... :rolleyes:

This is what I have done to most of my cars, and the rust you end up with will be minimal.
Just keep as much of the salt off your car as possible.

[bigjon]

Well, it's starting to get late in the year... I know some are getting ready to put their MM's away, but I am not. Mine is an all year vehicle, but will se the garage as much as possible. The keep the car looking it's best, for years to come I think I should do something to protect it from rust, but what? I know of only the three options:

The black guck (tar) - I'm not too keen on this, and think it looks awful
The pink oil - drip-drip for a little while, and I wouldn't be keeping the car in my garage for a week. Also leaves a filmy/greasy residue, which I'm not terribly fond of.
The electronic modules - I'm skeptical. Do they work? Really?
So, what does everyone else do, to prevent rust? One of the above, or something else?

1 and 2 actually work, though they suck for the reasons you listed. i have purchased cars that cam installed with #3, they don't work very good at all if you actually drive your car. they are intended for cars in storage.

other than that go through car washes very frequently with undercarriage cleaning. that's what i do.

[deerejoe]

Some of the UAW members may wish to weigh in here as to how effective the 'dip process' of various components are and what is NOT treated for corrosion.
I'm sure the frame is merely black coated high tensile steel without any corrosion treatment.

Door (interior) panels are supposedly(?) zinc dipped for corrosion resistance as well the interior of fender panels.
Also, some manufacturers(?) have a limited rust clause in their warranty. What it says and what it's worth is for you to determine.

Using the MM as a daily driver in all weather conditions is in itself a challenge for anyone/any where to keep pristine.
Under spray at the car wash is not very effective unless you use it immediately after exposure to the elements...before it has a chance to adhere to the exposed surfaces of susceptible metals. The spray is brief and not very thorough for satisfactory cleaning.

There is of course the option of steam cleaning the under carriage if you have access to a pit bay and a steam jenny. We used this method in the military to deep clean vehicles for long term storage.

Personally, I think a 'beater' vehicle to use on those bad weather days would be more cost effective overall. Certainly, less work and worry.

[Bradley G]

I feel any measures(current) one takes to retard the corrosion process is good.The chemicles that are being used today are far better than ones offered years ago.The process has changed especially the old method of drilling holes in the sheet metal inside doors .The big difference in these chemicals is that they don't harden.Companies will use fancy terms when describing the properties of these chemicals. I have heard the word "thicksotropic" when describing the chemicles ability to mend an area where the product may have been sc***** off.The biggest mistake applicators (some) make is to apply too much product inside the doors .And failing to install the stints in the weep holes at the bottom of the doors.(to be removed after the chemicals cure)I have been brainwashed to belive Ford has the most expensive rust inhibitor of the big three.They use a hot dip Zinc oxide process to inhibit corrosion.Any measures that keep a Marauder from deterioriating are good.

[QWK SVT]

1 and 2 actually work, though they suck for the reasons you listed. i have purchased cars that cam installed with #3, they don't work very good at all if you actually drive your car. they are intended for cars in storage.
Well, it lloks like #3 is :bs: You've stated it doesn't work well, as do many websites I've come across since posting, including this one:
http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Car/car-electronic-protection.htm



Personally, I think a 'beater' vehicle to use on those bad weather days would be more cost effective overall. Certainly, less work and worry.
Yes, but the MM IS my "beater" - But I really don't think that term is appropriate! It's just too nice to be called a beater! Daily driver is much better :coolman:

I've had family members tell me that if I buy another vehicle, I'd be shot. I commute with another person, so through the winter, I'll likely be spending a fair bit of time in the passenger seat of a Windstar (boo!), while the Marauder sits safe and sound in my garage, beside the other toy.

I think I'm going to not get any undercoating (neither the tar, nor the oil), and just combine a frequent undercarriage wash strategy with a fair bit of time in my garage...

[Aren Jay]

Anyone have an update on Undercoatings?

I tired the Tar stuff on my Subie but it stank for a couple of weeks like turpentine and once it is there it is there for good. They suggest redoing it every two years and I just don't think I want to ruin my Marauder this way.

[Mike Poore]

The problem with that undercoating stuff was that it could suffer a stone chip, then "bubble", allowing water to get under it and cause a rust hole. Fortunately, I have a lift, but anyone can get access to one with a little planning. I take a flashlight/troublelight, and inspect the undercarriage. A rag, putty knife/scraper, and a can of the proper color Rustolium keeps things in good shape. Also, a can of WD-40 is useful for cleanups of areas generally not painted. Regular inspection and cleaning, usually during oil changes, works for our mini-fleet. :)

[omarauder]

Whenever you can, paint any bare metal parts with some clean motor oil and a brush. I usually turn the empty oil containers upside down after an oil change into a pan and let sit. The left over oil is used to "paint" bare metal under the car during the next oil change.