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TechHeavy
11-30-2004, 01:49 PM
Hi guys,

I'm getting ready to store my MM for the winter in my garage on the cement floor. Although I've been in Michigan for over a decade, I've never stored a car and was recently told this:

That I should put carpet under my tires so that the cold cement over the winter doesn't make "bad" spots on my tires. Huh?? Anyone ever heard of this being an issue? He said the cold cement could actually "re-form" or "re-mold" the rubber that is in contact with the cement possibly creating a "flat-spot".

Am I just gullible? Weird....

dansenander
11-30-2004, 02:08 PM
10 Tips for Long-Term Classic Car Storage or any car from www.AutoTech.com (http://www.AutoTech.com)



> 1.. Make sure your gas tank is full. This will reduce the amount of water that can be absorbed by the gasoline and it also slows the rate at which it turns to varnish. Use and additive like "Sta-Bil", "Dry Gas" or similar. Make sure it's well mixed and run the car for a while to make sure it's in the entire fuel system.

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> 2.. Freezing temperatures naturally dictate that anti-freeze be used. But even if it's not freezing, put it in. Many of the newer 'coolants' have excellent corrosion inhibitors that will help protect and lubricate your cooling system. A 50/50 anti-freeze/water mix is fine. Again make sure to run the car so it's mixed throughout the entire system.

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> 3.. Change the engine oil. Dirty oil is contaminated with acids and water that can cause premature bearing failure and rust inside the engine. If the car is likely to be left for a very long period of time unattended, remove the sparkplugs and liberally squirt some form of 'upper-cylinder lubricant' into the cylinders before replacing the plugs. This will help stop the piston rings from rusting to the cylinder walls.

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> 4.. Make sure the Brake and Clutch master cylinders are full of brake fluid. Brake fluid can absorb water very quickly. By reducing the exposed surface area of the fluid, the water absorption can be reduced. If you can, bleed the brake and clutch systems. It is recommended that you do this on an annual basis anyway, to purge the system of old and possibly contaminated brake fluid.

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> 5.. To inhibit rust in the engine area, use a lubricant spray such as WD40 to coat all exposed metal surfaces. The volatile carrier in the WD40 will soon evaporate leaving a protective film on the hose clamps, coils, carb bodies etc. 'Wax-oyl' is also good, but you'll want to hose it off at a 'car wash' in the Spring.

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> 6.. Wash the entire car and apply a good wax. Don't forget to clean the inside. Do this early in the day to give it plenty of time to thoroughly dry before putting it in storage.

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> 7.. If you have a convertible top, leave it up and the windows and vents closed. A convertible top can develop nasty creases when folded for long periods, especially in cold climates. Treat Vinyl tops with Silicone or similar. Keeping the windows and vents closed keeps small creatures from entering. But buy some desiccant sacs from a storage supply house 'Dry Pac' for example and place them inside the car on the floors. This will keep moisture from damaging the interior if it is damp or humid where you are.

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> 8.. Ensure that the boot is clean and dry, The boot seal is not always positive and some moisture can collect and condense in the inner fenders and floor. Air it out well for a day or so, then place a desiccant sac in here too before closing it up.

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> 9.. Finally, take the car on a good 30 minute run. This will evaporate all the moisture in the exhaust and in the engine. Then park the car with the hand brake off and either 'chock' the wheels or leave it in gear if necessary. Over inflating the tires can help guard against flat spots. Disconnect the battery.

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> 10.. The best thing to do for a stored car is to visit it once a month and take it for a short drive. This keeps everything in good shape, preventing things from getting corroded and seals drying out. At the very least have some one start it up periodically. If you are going to cover it use a proper Cloth car cover, not a Plastic one. If you find the concrete floor in your storage unit gets damp or 'sweats' use cat litter, or lay plastic beneath the car to prevent the condensation from reaching your floor pans.

dansenander
11-30-2004, 02:09 PM
12 Tips for Storing Vehicles
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All kinds of vehicles get stored for the winter, ranging from a convertible that's reserved for sunny days to a car or truck that's left behind when snowbirds head south. "Because cars and trucks were made to be driven regularly, winter storage — or any prolonged period of storage—can really take its toll, unless people take a few precautions to protect their vehicle while it's in hibernation," says Sue Elliott-Sink, director of content for enjoythedrive.com." A little work now can protect a vehicle from rust, animals and other storage-related headaches." To help car and truck owners keep their stored vehicles in good shape, here are a few storage tips.

Get it out of the elements! No amount of precautions will protect a car that is stored outside where the sun, rain, or snow will beat on it day in and day out. Put it under a canopy or keep it in the garage.
Keep the fuel fresh. When gasoline sits, it can break down and form gum and varnish, which will clog a fuel system. What's more, any moisture left in the system can cause rust. The solution: Add a container of fuel stabilizer to the gas tank, then fill the tank to the top right before putting the vehicle into storage. The short drive home from the gas station will circulate the stabilized fuel throughout the system, keeping the gas fresh and the system safe until the vehicle is ready to ride again.
Don't let the cooling system freeze during the winter. Drain the system (including the radiator) and refill it with a rust-inhibiting antifreeze.
Change the oil. It's important to remove any acid, moisture and other contaminants from an engine by changing the oil and filter before putting a vehicle to sleep for the winter. It's okay to use the same-viscosity oil as usual, as long as the oil contains corrosion protection.
Avoid flat-spotting the tires. A vehicle that sits for a long period of time can ruin a set of radial tires. The best way to save those expensive tires is to store the vehicle up on jack stands. Some people also may want to remove the vehicle's wheels and tires—or let some air out of the tires to reduce strain on the shocks and other suspension components.
Keep the battery alive. When a battery loses its charge over time, it can freeze and explode. To avoid a dangerous mess, hook up a battery charger/maintainer, which will keep the battery properly charged, no matter how long the vehicle sits.
Protect the paint. Give the vehicle a good washing before it's put away for the winter to remove any road salt or grunge, and be sure to dry it thoroughly, too. Then apply a protective coat of wax. Finally, slip on a breathable cloth car cover. (Plastic covers will trap condensation and provide a fertile breeding ground for rust.)
Check the insurance. Just because a vehicle is sitting undriven doesn't mean liability coverage is unnecessary. What if someone pushes the car, and it winds up rolling down the driveway and into the neighbor's brand-new Mercedes? Collision and theft coverage can be important, too.
Prevent rust. Unpainted metal surfaces, from engine parts to tailpipes, can use a good coat of rust inhibitor.

Protect vinyl, leather and rubber. If the vehicle will be stored in a dry climate, it's wise to apply a preservative to prevent seats, armrests and dash pads from cracking.
Provide critter protection. All kinds of small animals find vehicle wiring, seats and carpet delectable, and they think cars and trucks make a nice den, too. To keep critters out, place mothballs inside a vehicle, including under the dash, and cover the tailpipe. Or, for total protection, store the vehicle inside a cocoon that seals it completely from the elements.
Store convertibles with the top up. Convertible tops can actually shrink if they are left in the down position for an extended period of time.

RF Overlord
11-30-2004, 02:19 PM
My '68 Buick GS convertible has sat in the garage for periods of up to 3 years at a time without being moved and I have never had any flat-spotting issues with the tires...(BFG Radial T/As)

CRUZTAKER
11-30-2004, 03:09 PM
Wow...that's a lot of tips!

I park on 4 little pieces of 1" 12X12 plywood pieces on my deformed concrete flooring.

MarauderMark
11-30-2004, 03:25 PM
My cure is just use it all the time :D

TechHeavy
11-30-2004, 03:38 PM
Over inflating the tires can help guard against flat spots. Disconnect the battery.
Thank you Dan! (I think??) :) Good tips! As a bonus: I hadn't thought about spraying the exposed engine parts with WD40! I'll do that. I already keep my doors, (everything underneath) well WD40'ed....
Cool.

TechHeavy
11-30-2004, 03:44 PM
Avoid flat-spotting the tires. A vehicle that sits for a long period of time can ruin a set of radial tires. The best way to save those expensive tires is to store the vehicle up on jack stands.
Ah hah! So, it seems my source was right in way, (just not in that it related to cold cement... lol). As you guys can probably guess, I've never stored a vehicle. So, apparently, (according to the above quote) a vehicle that is stored for too long in one position, (whether any climate) is subject to possible flat-spots. Didn't know that. Ok. Thanks again, Dan. Maybe I'll just roll my MM back and forth in the driveway, (I don't put down salt on the driveway!) to avoid this possibility.

Barry, do you have tire problems in the Spring after parking on your boards?

SergntMac
11-30-2004, 03:45 PM
I can't offer you any advice on flat spots, or, deforming, other than to say it hasn't happened to me, and this will be my third MM winter. Maybe back in the days of bias ply tires is was a problem, but it doesn't concern me today. IMHO, the carpeting is a good idea, get it under the tires too.

I've got a small garage, 10X20, 6" concrete floor. it's one of 12 garages in a row, and not one of the end units. It's a seperate building from my Condo, and it's not heated.

Once it's time to button up for the winter, I throw down carpeting everywhere I can under the car and along the OH door seam. Nothing expensive, stuff I collected when a neighbor bought new carpeting. I don't know why this works, but it does. Last year, with -10 outside temps, a case of soda did not freeze. I also get a fresh oil change before storage, and top off the tank. Changing temps will cause condensation, when I break out in the Spring, I'll change the oil again and drive off the tank of gas.

Keep it simple, you'll be fine. You may consider an inexpensive trickle charger, or, battery reminder too. Can't hurt.

snowbird
11-30-2004, 03:46 PM
Hi guys,

I'm getting ready to store my MM for the winter in my garage on the cement floor. Although I've been in Michigan for over a decade, I've never stored a car and was recently told this:

That I should put carpet under my tires so that the cold cement over the winter doesn't make "bad" spots on my tires. Huh?? Anyone ever heard of this being an issue? He said the cold cement could actually "re-form" or "re-mold" the rubber that is in contact with the cement possibly creating a "flat-spot".

Am I just gullible? Weird....There are good recipe underneath your original post but ... cars prefer to be driven than stored. It's a lot cheaper to have a good set of winter tires than a second car to run. Besides, those body on frame cars are like bulldozers. They like to be beated. Storing them will make them catch deviant behavior .... :banana:

TechHeavy
11-30-2004, 04:00 PM
IMHO, the carpeting is a good idea, get it under the tires too. Once it's time to button up for the winter, I throw down carpeting everywhere I can under the car and along the OH door seam. I don't know why this works, but it does. Last year, with -10 outside temps, a case of soda did not freeze.
Very interesting Mac! Amazing that the case of soda didn't freeze! I'm sold. I have a bunch of carpet remnants in the attic from the new carpet install that I knew... (I just knew it!) had a purpose for later on. I'll use these to treat my MM to wall-to-wall carpeting from underneath the tires all the way to the OH door seam.... Of course the cloth dust cover will go over these. Thanks for sharing your experience!

Great tips I'm getting here guys! You'd think I was a Southerner moved north for some strange reason... (well, I am, but that's another story)! :)

Warpath
11-30-2004, 04:06 PM
...Maybe back in the days of bias ply tires is was a problem, but it doesn't concern me today...

Exactly. Back in the days of bias ply tires you would have to worry about it. I think we are still in the bias ply tire days since I think the 44" boggers/mudders are bias ply. Anyway, bias ply tires can permanently flat spot if left in the same position too long (I'm not sure whether temperature has anything to do with it). On the other hand, radial tires will not permanently flat spot. They may develop a temporary flat spot. They'll round out after some miles. My Cobra tires would flat spot after 5-6 months storage. They would round out completely after about 50 - 100 miles.

My suggestion is to inflate the tires to the maximum pressure listed on the side walls (front and rear may be different on MMs). There's no point in going any higher especially if you forget to deflate them in spring. I went to max pressure last winter and didn't have any flat spotting of my tires.

TechHeavy
11-30-2004, 04:14 PM
My suggestion is to inflate the tires to the maximum pressure listed on the side walls (front and rear may be different on MMs). There's no point in going any higher especially if you forget to deflate them in spring. I went to max pressure last winter and didn't have any flat spotting of my tires.
Great! Thanks Warpath! I'm taking notes here.... :)

CRUZTAKER
11-30-2004, 04:41 PM
Barry, do you have tire problems in the Spring after parking on your boards?
What WARPATH said. I do get a bit of flat spot, but the first trip down the highway a few miles settles it out.

Understand, my garage floor is like the moon...it is no where near smooth. It's a former stable! I have to do this so the tires actually sit flat.

TripleTransAm
11-30-2004, 07:07 PM
I've always overinflated the tires when storing my T/As, and never had a flat-spotting happen. However, one time I left my GTA on its GSCs for several months at normal pressures, and the damned tires never recovered. Ironically enough, I've even stored my '78 for great lengths with UNDERinflated BFG Radial T/As (unusual storage circumstances) and never had a flat spot occur as well! Too funny! Seems BFG can make ONE kind of tire with favorable characteristics! :lol:

The Yokohama something-or-other-I-can't-remember-the-lousy-name tires I put on my WS6 in early summer 2003 seem to flat spot when sitting on the same spot (at 32-33 psi) for a day or more! However, within 10 minutes all is well again. Odd characteristic... otherwise, I'm fairly pleased with the tire, as compared with the original Goodyear F1s (which I successfully wrestled 42000 miles out of, with more to go if I didn't insist on driving the car in the rain with my son in it).

jgc61sr2002
11-30-2004, 07:46 PM
Costco formly Price Club is now filling the tires they mount with Nitrogen. The Mgr. states" that changes in temperatures doesn't effect the tire pressure."

dwasson
11-30-2004, 08:08 PM
Store your marauder in a Car Capsule (http://carcapsule.com/) to ensure cleanliness.

TechHeavy
12-02-2004, 01:31 PM
Store your marauder in a Car Capsule (http://carcapsule.com/) to ensure cleanliness.
I'd love to have one, (I checked-out the web site) but it won't fit in my tiny garage. I only have an inch of clearance between the back bumper and garage door.... :(

Warpath
12-03-2004, 09:24 AM
I'd love to have one, (I checked-out the web site) but it won't fit in my tiny garage. I only have an inch of clearance between the back bumper and garage door.... :(


Time to move. It looks like you outgrew your house.