Dana U-Joint

[MM2004]

Can anyone tell me what the U-joint (Dana) part number is??

Anyone out there have a trans. yoke and flange they want to to get rid of?

[BUCKWHEAT]

Can anyone tell me what the U-joint (Dana) part number is??

Anyone out there have a trans. yoke and flange they want to to get rid of?
I've got a left-over OEM driveline complete. Does that have what you want?
John

[Dennis Reinhart]

I have 18 stock drive shafts if you are planning on installing dana joints in a stock shaft I feel you will have a lot of headaches, first of all as soon as you remove the yoke and flange to insatll the U joints the drive shaft will be out of ballance there are very few places that can high speed spin ballance a drive shaft with the rear flange on there, so your better of buying a better drive shaft.

[CRUZTAKER]

If a stock driveshaft is what you want, I can offer mine, with about 2500 miles on it, for $60 shipped to your door.;)

[Marauderjack]

Dennis....

I have wondered but never asked.....Does the MMX shaft come complete with u-joints and flanges?? :confused:

Thanks,
Marauderjack :rolleyes:

[SergntMac]

Dennis....

I have wondered but never asked.....Does the MMX shaft come complete with u-joints and flanges?? :confused:

Thanks,
Marauderjack :rolleyes:Mine did...

[MarauderMark]

Dennis....

I have wondered but never asked.....Does the MMX shaft come complete with u-joints and flanges?? :confused:

Thanks,
Marauderjack :rolleyes:


And Balanced..

[RF Overlord]

Does the MMX shaft come complete with u-joints and flanges??

^^^what they said^^^

It comes ready to bolt right in...

[Dennis Reinhart]

Dennis....

I have wondered but never asked.....Does the MMX shaft come complete with u-joints and flanges?? :confused:

Thanks,
Marauderjack :rolleyes:


Yes this is the only way I sell them and the only way there made

[MM2004]

When removing the driveshaft from the vehicle, it is important to mark the flange and the rear yoke ensuring the driveshaft is installed exactly the way it was removed. This also goes for the components when replacing u-joints. If the shaft is re-assembled exactly the way it was manufactured, balance will not be compromised.
I am asking for the u-joint part number and components in hopes of further investigating this NVH issue as a 4" OD aluminum tube may be in the works. I just need the end fittings for spline/bolt patter summaries.
Can anyone help? I don't need the entire shaft.



Yes this is the only way I sell them and the only way there made

[Dennis Reinhart]

When removing the driveshaft from the vehicle, it is important to mark the flange and the rear yoke ensuring the driveshaft is installed exactly the way it was removed. This also goes for the components when replacing u-joints. If the shaft is re-assembled exactly the way it was manufactured, balance will not be compromised.
I am asking for the u-joint part number and components in hopes of further investigating this NVH issue as a 4" OD aluminum tube may be in the works. I just need the end fittings for spline/bolt patter summaries.
Can anyone help? I don't need the entire shaft.


When you remove the flange from the driveshaft and install the new ujoints the shaft will not be the same as befrore, you have installed different ujoints the shaft was ballanced as a complete assembly as OEM so to say you can change the joints and install it back and still have it ballance will never happen, again this is your choice, I think Napa sells Dana, good luck with your up grade

[MM2004]

Dennis,
No flames intended, but the driveshaft will maintain it's balance if the u-joint R&R is performed properly. I have been part of this experiment with driveshaft balance integrity in the past with very favorable results. I am not trying to start a flame war, just trying to help everyone out with future u-joint replacement.


When you remove the flange from the driveshaft and install the new ujoints the shaft will not be the same as befrore, you have installed different ujoints the shaft was ballanced as a complete assembly as OEM so to say you can change the joints and install it back and still have it ballance will never happen, again this is your choice, I think Napa sells Dana, good luck with your up grade

[SergntMac]

No flames intended, but the driveshaft will maintain it's balance if the u-joint R&R is performed properly. I have been part of this experiment with driveshaft balance integrity in the past with very favorable results. I am not trying to start a flame war, just trying to help everyone out with future u-joint replacement.
This is good, thank you. Good as long as you understand that none of us here have expressed any U-joint specific problems. We have learned a lot about drive shaft issues, and repairs for those problems, but not one of us has yet mentioned what you focus on, the U-joints. Thanks, keep us posted, eh?

[Dennis Reinhart]

I do not feel this is a flame its just tht you have your opinion which I respect, but totaly dissagree with, and I base this on years of experince, with drive shafts for Lincoln Mark 8's and the Thunderbird as well as Crown Vics, I have tried what you are attempting and never had good results, its a proven fact the drive shaft has a speed rating associated with this car, if you want to try this I think its admirable but I feel its a waist of time, if you have a bad shaft now I will send you a brand new OEM shaft for 100.00 PS if this will help you.

[Zack]

This also goes for the components when replacing u-joints. If the shaft is re-assembled exactly the way it was manufactured, balance will not be compromised.


That is a bunch of hogwash if you ask me. Sure, you might not feel a vibration after doing this, but the driveline and body bushings will absorb minor vibrations. You go ahead and swap the U-Joints and then put that shaft on a balancer. If it balances out perfectly, Ill drive to Kentucky and wash your car for you.

[MM2004]

Gentlemen,
What I am attempting to do here is provide information on u-joint replacement based upon my years of experience working for Dana and balancing driveshafts using the same machines as Dyno-Tech of which I have worked with in the past.
I have balanced OEM driveshafts, replaced the u-joint kits, rebalanced the driveshaft with a variance of approximately .01 - .04 oz./in based upon .21 oz./in. max. allowable spec. @ 3,000 - 4,000 rpm.
Exchanging u-joints can be done successfully as I have done time and time again without the car/truck vibrating worse after the exchange. I do not have a "vibrating" driveshaft at this point, and the car is smooth at 100mph. However, I feel the need to investigate the why's and how's of this NVH condition and alternatives to fix this issue without having to purchase expensive driveshafts.
The OEM driveshaft is manufactured by Visteon and I do not have the luxury of time to sift through 56,000 Dana drawings to find which components match our OEM driveshaft in order for me to build an experimental shaft with increased critical speeds and torsional thresholds that would be shared with everyone. This is why I asked for the part numbers or for the parts themsleves at the beginning of this thread so I may move forward.
I am a very new member to this site, and do not intend to come off as a know it all. Clearly, many, many people on this site have more knowledge regarding our MM's than I probably ever will.
Building and Balancing driveshafts is what I have been doing for twenty years, and would enjoy sharing some of my driveshaft knowledge with the group.
Thanks,
Mike.

[TAF]

Gentlemen,
What I am attempting to do here is provide information on u-joint replacement based upon my years of experience working for Dana and balancing driveshafts using the same machines as Dyno-Tech of which I have worked with in the past.
I have balanced OEM driveshafts, replaced the u-joint kits, rebalanced the driveshaft with a variance of approximately .01 - .04 oz./in based upon .21 oz./in. max. allowable spec. @ 3,000 - 4,000 rpm.
Exchanging u-joints can be done successfully as I have done time and time again without the car/truck vibrating worse after the exchange. I do not have a "vibrating" driveshaft at this point, and the car is smooth at 100mph. However, I feel the need to investigate the why's and how's of this NVH condition and alternatives to fix this issue without having to purchase expensive driveshafts.
The OEM driveshaft is manufactured by Visteon and I do not have the luxury of time to sift through 56,000 Dana drawings to find which components match our OEM driveshaft in order for me to build an experimental shaft with increased critical speeds and torsional thresholds that would be shared with everyone. This is why I asked for the part numbers or for the parts themsleves at the beginning of this thread so I may move forward.
I am a very new member to this site, and do not intend to come off as a know it all. Clearly, many, many people on this site have more knowledge regarding our MM's than I probably ever will.
Building and Balancing driveshafts is what I have been doing for twenty years, and would enjoy sharing some of my driveshaft knowledge with the group.
Thanks,
Mike.
Let's see...how did that go? Oh yeah..."Nuff Said!"

Mike, well said and your qualifications stated would certainly back up your reasoning for your initial inquiry...I've got to go into the Ford Parts Department at my dealer today, I'll see if I can get you the info needed for you.

[Dennis Reinhart]

Michael we all appreciate what you are doing this is a great site and the Internet can be easily misread as well as posts being misinterpreted, again I hope you can accomplish your goal, your quote is at follows

Building and Balancing driveshafts is what I have been doing for twenty years, and would enjoy sharing some of my driveshaft knowledge with the group.
Thanks,
Mike.

I called and got it for you the number is a Dana Spicer 1330 series 5-790X good luck if I can help in any way please call me. :beer: :beer:

[SergntMac]

I love how these topics unfold...Like a trail in the woods, you follow one bread crumb at a time.

Recalling my own research into drive shaft issues, it's not a matter of shaft balance at all, rather a matter of centrifugal oscilation, or, "whip" factor of the metal used in construction of the OEM drive shaft. There's quite a history here, one born in development of new and different metal compositions in automobile production, much like our powered metal engine components. I imagine it's been investigated to the inth degree and if true, the homework has been done, and the fix identified. Not all MMs suffer from this annoying and at times destructive vibration to begin with, and with MM production discontinued, I want to ask why would one bother, but I won't. Best wishes in your adventure, Mike.

[TAF]

Nope...don't feel used at all. I think the guy asked a simple question, got slammed by a self-proclaimed expert...demonstrated his expertise and reasoning and now has been helped by one of our fine vendors.

[MM2004]

Zack wrote:
That is a bunch of hogwash if you ask me. Sure, you might not feel a vibration after doing this, but the driveline and body bushings will absorb minor vibrations. You go ahead and swap the U-Joints and then put that shaft on a balancer. If it balances out perfectly, Ill drive to Kentucky and wash your car for you.

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Zack,
I did not say the driveshaft would balance perfectly. There will always be driveshaft imbalance due to tolerances and stackups. I am saying that a driveshaft can have the u-joints changed without throwing the driveshaft out of balance.
This can and has been accomplished by me. I do appreciate your offer to drive to Kentucky to wash my MM. However, I am capable of washing my own car.
Maybe you can rinse the suds off? :D