Rear Girdle Seepage.......

[gonzo50]

I've had my TA Performance Rear Girdle on for over two months now and been checking it regularly for any signs of leaks, the fill port and drain port on the girdle are good, the seal and the bolts around the girdle are also good, but I've noticed a seepage coming from the recessed Load bolts area.

My question is....What can I use to put over the recessed load bolts to stop the seepage, as in sealant ?

Also, the sealant must be removable for future service requirements. Thanks

[Kelly]

The load bolt seepage area is a though one, one note though you might want to check the fluid level and make sure it is filled to the proper level, it might be a little over filled.

[JACook]

My question is....What can I use to put over the recessed load bolts to stop the seepage, as in sealant ?

I would back the bolts out, clean 'em off with brake cleaner, and then use ARP Thread Sealer, or an equivalent
Teflon-paste sealer. The ARP sealer is specifically designed to seal head bolt threads, and will not cause any
problems down the road should you ever need to take things apart again.

[Logan]

What he said...

[merc]

I had a leak when the gridle was first installed. After I followed these instruction I no longer had a link.

1 Drain rear end of gear oil and remove stock cover.
2 Check all internal components for visible excessive wear, cracks, etc.
3 If using the OPTIONAL Bearing Cap Stud Kit do the following:
A. Remove original bolts holding the caps
B. Install Studs, and torque studs in to the housing to 10ft/lbs (120
in/lbs)
C. Re-Install bearing caps and torque nuts to 60-75ft/lbs,
4 Thoroughly clean the gasket surface of the housing.
5 For best results we recommend running a bottoming tap
through each bolt position. This will ensure that each bolt torques properly.
6 Back Load Bolts out to clear the bearing caps ,but do not remove them, failing
to do so may damage the cover or bearing caps.
7 Install the 74 Performance Rear End Girdle with the supplied gasket, bolts
and washers.
8 Torque the mounting bolts to25ft/lb
9 Screw the two load bolts in by hand until they make contact with the bearing
caps.
10 Torque the load bolts to 5 ft/lbs (60 in/lbs) MAXIMUM, excessive torque will
result in distorted bearing caps. DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE LOAD BOLTS! Then snug
the jamb nuts to lock the Load Bolt.
11 Fill the rear end with gear oil using the provided fill hole on the TA Rear
Cover, until fluid runs out of the factory fill hole on the side of the
differential
case.

:twocents:

[jgc61sr2002]

I had a leak when the gridle was first installed. After I followed these instruction I no longer had a link.

1 Drain rear end of gear oil and remove stock cover.
2 Check all internal components for visible excessive wear, cracks, etc.
3 If using the OPTIONAL Bearing Cap Stud Kit do the following:
A. Remove original bolts holding the caps
B. Install Studs, and torque studs in to the housing to 10ft/lbs (120
in/lbs)
C. Re-Install bearing caps and torque nuts to 60-75ft/lbs,
4 Thoroughly clean the gasket surface of the housing.
5 For best results we recommend running a bottoming tap
through each bolt position. This will ensure that each bolt torques properly.
6 Back Load Bolts out to clear the bearing caps ,but do not remove them, failing
to do so may damage the cover or bearing caps.
7 Install the 74 Performance Rear End Girdle with the supplied gasket, bolts
and washers.
8 Torque the mounting bolts to25ft/lb
9 Screw the two load bolts in by hand until they make contact with the bearing
caps.
10 Torque the load bolts to 5 ft/lbs (60 in/lbs) MAXIMUM, excessive torque will
result in distorted bearing caps. DO NOT OVER TORQUE THE LOAD BOLTS! Then snug
the jamb nuts to lock the Load Bolt.
11 Fill the rear end with gear oil using the provided fill hole on the TA Rear
Cover, until fluid runs out of the factory fill hole on the side of the
differential
case.

:twocents:


What Jeff said sounds a lot easier. IMO.

[merc406]

Rear Girdle seepage......yuk, just doesn't sound good.

[BillyGman]

I cannot say that I've ever used one of those, but I have a friend that used one on his Mustang, and he used gasket sealer on the load bolts, and torqued them to the specified 5 ft/lbs, and he hasn't had any leaks. Something tells me that some installers over torque those center bolts, because 5 ft/lbs isn't much, but that's what I'm told the directions tell you to torque them at.

[Svashtar]

Ok, I am getting very minor leakage from the allen head nut at the 6 O'clock position bottom dead center. Is it safe to back this out to treat it with thread sealer? Won't the oil come pouring out when that bolt is removed?

Dumb question: I don't see a drain OR fill plug on my TA Performance girdle. I'll have to get get it up in the air because from the ground I don't see anything that would qualify.

Thanks for any info.

Norm

[Svashtar]

Ok, I am getting very minor leakage from the allen head nut at the 6 O'clock position bottom dead center. Is it safe to back this out to treat it with thread sealer? Won't the oil come pouring out when that bolt is removed?

Dumb question: I don't see a drain OR fill plug on my TA Performance girdle. I'll have to get get it up in the air because from the ground I don't see anything that would qualify.

Thanks for any info.

Norm
Ok, just had to get up under there; the fill port is there but almost out of sight. Don't know how a fill hose is going to get up there in that space as we're crowding the gas tank, but won't worry about it for now.

The "leaking plug" is the drain hole. I'll tighten it up. There still seems to be a very fine film of fluid on the bottom of the differential though. I hope it is from the fill plug and not from around the new cap itself. In any case we're talking about 1 or two drops every couple of weeks, so again it's probably not enough to worry about; it's just a little oil goes a long way.

Thanks,

Norm

[Kelly]

Ok, just had to get up under there; the fill port is there but almost out of sight. Don't know how a fill hose is going to get up there in that space as we're crowding the gas tank, but won't worry about it for now.

The "leaking plug" is the drain hole. I'll tighten it up. There still seems to be a very fine film of fluid on the bottom of the differential though. I hope it is from the fill plug and not from around the new cap itself. In any case we're talking about 1 or two drops every couple of weeks, so again it's probably not enough to worry about; it's just a little oil goes a long way.

Thanks,

Norm

Mine leaked around the drain plug as well, at first I tightened it but it would still leak at times, so I did the little Dutch boy thing and removed the plug and put a finger on the drian hole and put just a little thread tape on the plug and screwed it back in and it hasn't leaked since.

[BillyGman]

Norm, it sounds from what you're saying that the leak is coming from the drain plug. If you want to correct that, then you'll have to drain the fluid out in order to put thread sealer on the plug. but first I'd check the torque on it.Or atleast take a socket and ratchet to it to see if it feels tight. Perhaps it just wasn't tightened enough in the first place, and you can remedy the leak by simply tightening it a little more. you should also deinately check the torque on the cover bolts. The spec is 30 FT/LBS. If they're not torqued to spec, then they can be a source of leakage w/out a doubt. The fill plug torque spec is 25FT/LBS.


But if that doesn't stop the leak, and you decide to drain the housing, then you can fill it up through the original fill plug that's in the front of the housing next to where the driveshaft and pinion goes into the housing. That fill plug is easier to get at, since it's at a lower point. And besides that, this is the level that the rear end is supposed to be filled to anyway. So the fluid will have to be poured into the housing until you can feel the level reach to that front fill hole opening, asnd you can feel it with your finger tip. I recommend using thread sealer on both plugs.

[FordNut]

Do not use the fill plug on the rear cover. It is too high and you will over-fill your rear end. Use the original fill plug on the front of the rear end.

[Svashtar]

Norm, it sounds from what you're saying that the leak is coming from the drain plug. If you want to correct that, then you'll have to drain the fluid out in order to put thread sealer on the plug. but first I'd check the torque on it.Or atleast take a socket and ratchet to it to see if it feels tight. Perhaps it just wasn't tightened enough in the first place, and you can remedy the leak by simply tightening it a little more. you should also deinately check the torque on the cover bolts. The spec is 30 FT/LBS. If they're not torqued to spec, then they can be a source of leakage w/out a doubt. The fill plug torque spec is 25FT/LBS.


But if that doesn't stop the leak, and you decide to drain the housing, then you can fill it up through the original fill plug that's in the front of the housing next to where the driveshaft and pinion goes into the housing. That fill plug is easier to get at, since it's at a lower point. And besides that, this is the level that the rear end is supposed to be filled to anyway. So the fluid will have to be poured into the housing until you can feel the level reach to that front fill hole opening, asnd you can feel it with your finger tip. I recommend using thread sealer on both plugs.
Thanks everyone for the great information. The drain plug at the back bottom of the TA housing seemed very loose to me. I was able to get about 2 very easy turns on it, and now it is more flush with the housing instead of sticking out. For kicks I checked several of the cover bolts as well. I couldn't turn any of them, but did turn one a little bit. My mechanic is a good guy, but I can't recall if the TA Performace stud & Girdle kit came with torque specs. If it did I'm sure he followed them.

The cover bolts high up are almost impossible to get at with the axle in place, and the one at the 6 o'clock position is blocked by the rear sway bar which would have to be removed to get at it. I'm going to keep a close eye on it, but I think I am in pretty good shape. Thanks also for the info about the fill plug. I would have for sure chosen the high up fill plug in back and overfilled it without your guys info.

Regards,

Norm

[BillyGman]

Norm, you can use a crow's foot for the cover bolt on the bottom, and a universal "wobble" attachment and a 6" socket extension for the ones on top. :) That way you can put the proper 30Ft/LBS of torque on them. (the spec is actually 33 FT/LBS but close enough). You don't need a torque spec to be stated on the directions that came with the new cover, since the bolt holes have not been changed on the rear end housing, and therefore the same size bolts are used as are with the stock cover. And the Ford spec is stated avove^

Whatever you do, do NOT torque the stud girdle bolts(or nuts) that are in the middle of that cover to 30 FT/LBS!!! They'r completely different, and usually require merely 5ft/LBS. So I'd leave them alone if i were you. hopefully the installer used some type of thread sealant on those.

[STLThunder]

The words "girdle" and "seepage" used in the same sentence don't paint a very pretty or inviting picture. :puke:

[Svashtar]

Norm, you can use a crow's foot for the cover bolt on the bottom, and a universal "wobble" attachment and a 6" socket extension for the ones on top. :) That way you can put the proper 30Ft/LBS of torque on them. (the spec is actually 33 FT/LBS but close enough). You don't need a torque spec to be stated on the directions that came with the new cover, since the bolt holes have not been changed on the rear end housing, and therefore the same size bolts are used as are with the stock cover. And the Ford spec is stated avove^

Whatever you do, do NOT torque the stud girdle bolts(or nuts) that are in the middle of that cover to 30 FT/LBS!!! They'r completely different, and usually require merely 5ft/LBS. So I'd leave them alone if i were you. hopefully the installer used some type of thread sealant on those.
Thanks Billy! OK, right, that sounds good. I have a set of crow's foot wrenches and haven't used them yet. For some reason I was thinking that only allen wrenches would work on those. I'll double check.

As for the ones in the middle, you mean the two gold colored nuts on either side of the middle, correct? Gotcha, thanks. Yes, he used thread sealant and was pretty careful about everything. Only unexpected cost was some super expensive rear end oil he used, along with the friction modifier. Can't remember exactly what it was but he swore by it, and it cost me around $40 for it I think. Must have been some synthetic oil. Anyway, the guy has been building racing Ford's since about 1966 and did a good and fair job which I appreciated. FYI, he installed my 4:10 gears, MMX drive shaft, driveshaft loop, Steeda UD pullies, and the TA Stud & Girdle kit in about 6 hours with a total cost of $589, which worked for me after some of the BS quotes I had been given!

Thanks again.

Norm

[valleyman]

Anyway, the guy has been building racing Ford's since about 1966 and did a good and fair job which I appreciated. FYI, he installed my 4:10 gears, MMX drive shaft, driveshaft loop, Steeda UD pullies, and the TA Stud & Girdle kit in about 6 hours with a total cost of $589, which worked for me after some of the BS quotes I had been given!

Thanks again.

Norm[/QUOTE]

Norm -- where's this shop?

[Svashtar]

Anyway, the guy has been building racing Ford's since about 1966 and did a good and fair job which I appreciated. FYI, he installed my 4:10 gears, MMX drive shaft, driveshaft loop, Steeda UD pullies, and the TA Stud & Girdle kit in about 6 hours with a total cost of $589, which worked for me after some of the BS quotes I had been given!

Thanks again.

Norm
Norm -- where's this shop?[/QUOTE]
Valleyman, sorry for the delay in getting back to you. The shop is Doug Hampton's Auto Repair in south Salinas. He does a lot of work on 60's muscle cars and specializes in Fords.

Norm