Svashtar
12-30-2004, 01:53 AM
Guys, just being a bit paranoid here; pretty sure there's no problem, but thought I would double check:
Changed my thermostat to the 180 degree therm the other day. All went as planned, and I went off a how-to on the forum here. Poured the coolant back in and started up the car. The temp climbed slightly, so I opened up the 1 1/4" metal cap on the top pipe for a few minutes and the temp dropped back down.
Sealed it up and went for a drive, luckily with my eyes fixed on the temp gauge. Two miles down the road the guage took off heading for HOT very quickly. I immediately shut the engine off in the middle of the road for 10 seconds while I thought about what to do. Then I started the car up for another 10 seconds at most and pulled to the side of the road and shut down again. Temp gauge reached about 80-90% of max. Luckily I had a 1/4" drive ratchet in the trunk and opened up the metal cap again for a few minutes and as I ran the car some more the engine temp dropped to it's "normal" position of about 30% of the way up the scale.
Over Christmas I drove it 4 hours straight on cruise control at 80 mph most of the way and the temp gauge didn't budge, so think all is OK, but wanted to check with you guys as I was worried about the effect of temporary high temps on an alumimium block.
BTW, I'm sure it is true that cylinders 7&8 are getting hotter than any others. When I changed my plugs out this same day, I noticed the little wax (I am assuming that's what it is) ring on the inside of the wall where the coil tube goes was degrading and powdery only on cylinder 8. (?) Must be because of hotter temps there I guess.
Thanks for any info as usual.
Regards,
Norm
Changed my thermostat to the 180 degree therm the other day. All went as planned, and I went off a how-to on the forum here. Poured the coolant back in and started up the car. The temp climbed slightly, so I opened up the 1 1/4" metal cap on the top pipe for a few minutes and the temp dropped back down.
Sealed it up and went for a drive, luckily with my eyes fixed on the temp gauge. Two miles down the road the guage took off heading for HOT very quickly. I immediately shut the engine off in the middle of the road for 10 seconds while I thought about what to do. Then I started the car up for another 10 seconds at most and pulled to the side of the road and shut down again. Temp gauge reached about 80-90% of max. Luckily I had a 1/4" drive ratchet in the trunk and opened up the metal cap again for a few minutes and as I ran the car some more the engine temp dropped to it's "normal" position of about 30% of the way up the scale.
Over Christmas I drove it 4 hours straight on cruise control at 80 mph most of the way and the temp gauge didn't budge, so think all is OK, but wanted to check with you guys as I was worried about the effect of temporary high temps on an alumimium block.
BTW, I'm sure it is true that cylinders 7&8 are getting hotter than any others. When I changed my plugs out this same day, I noticed the little wax (I am assuming that's what it is) ring on the inside of the wall where the coil tube goes was degrading and powdery only on cylinder 8. (?) Must be because of hotter temps there I guess.
Thanks for any info as usual.
Regards,
Norm